Hi,

I've got a:
Magna TS, 95, manual, 2.6L v4

I've got a problem with it and its been to the mechanics a few times already and they haven't been able to replicate the problem therfor finding it hard to know what the problem is, so I thought someone here may of had a simular problem or suggestion.

Problem:
I'll be cruising along doing 80k an all of a sudden the car will stop, as if the engine has been turned off, after about 3 seconds rolling it kicks back in without any weird noises and continues like normal. Sometimes it will happen a few times in a roll, and if this happens I normally pull over to the side of the road and then can't start the car. I leave it there for a few hours and it seems to fix itself.

Tried:
Injector module has been replaced to see if thats the problem but didn't fix it.

work around for the moment:
I do alot of driving, some days I don't have any problems at all, other days it may cut out once or twice during the day. But if I pull over when it first starts for 10mins I normally can get away with it without waiting hours.

any suggestions comments would be greatly appreicated.

It could possibly be poor fuel flow. If you can't do it yourself see if the mechanic can check that out. May need a new fuel pump. I have no idea that would cost though. But I can't think of any other reason unless you are running your tank dry :doubt:


lol

It could possibly be poor fuel flow. If you can't do it yourself see if the mechanic can check that out. May need a new fuel pump. I have no idea that would cost though. But I can't think of any other reason unless you are running your tank dry :doubt:


lol

I'll suggest that to them, nah always have petrol in it, im aware its baaaaddd to run ur car on low petrol. =) thanks.

It sounds very similar to a problem i had with my 89' galant which was a 2.0 litre 4.
My car would be fine for say half an hour, then it would cut out (without) any warning, then a couple of seconds later be fine, then it would cut out again. I took it to the mechanics like 3 or 4 times before it would play up for them.
After droping about 2 grand on it, and putting up with it for 9 months, with the problem still not fixed, i cracked the s**ts. went and saw the bank manager, and traded it in on my verada. while i miss driving the car, i don't miss the problem with it.
Your mechanics should be able to plug a computer into your ecu and get some error codes out of it.
I replaced my fuel pump, coil, crank angle sensor, modulator( i think thats what its called) from the distributor, tried a different air flow meter, and then packed it in
But I think getting the modulator thing in the distributor checked would be your best bet. Its a black thing, or atleast it was in my car. Your mechanic should be able to take your distributor out and send it to a place to be tested.

on the 2.6L EFI distributor body there is a 4 pin plug connected to the EFI wiring loom this is for the crank angle sensor (CAS) which is inside the distributor and the same design as a VL 6cyl commodore.
The common problem the Magnas and VL's have, is that the rubber boot on the wiring loom side of the CAS plug will perish and the CAS plug basically points straight up on both cars :nuts:, this will let moisture pool around the connections inside the plug and this will cause corrosion that leads to an intermittant bad contact with engine/road vibration that can make the engine stall or fail to start.
Without a signal from the CAS the magna EFI system won't power the fuel pump, deliver spark or give a signal to the injectors.
To test for this fault, lightly shake the wiring loom and connection to the distributor body while the engine is idleing too see if the car will breakdown or stall when the connection is moved one way or another. Also unclip it and inspect both side of the plug for corrosion.
To fix either sand blast the CAS side of the plug and get an auto elec to replace the connector on the wiring loom (about $20)
or u can try to clean it with some metho and a toothbrush but if u do this thoroughly dry it before reconnecting it.

could also be an intermittant fault in coil or fuel pump too

thanks guys

cjohnno - module has been replaced twice. Once 6 months ago and once the other day. But yea, your problem sounds exactly the same as the problem im having now. :cry:

benau - awesome I'll try this shortly.

If it was the crank angle sensor wouldn't the engine trouble light on the dash be flashing with it's code? Somehow i think it's a spark issue (could be ECU).

Do you hear a clicking sound in the passenger footwell?
Does your check engine light come on?

This used to happen in my KR Verada. For no reason the engine would cut out and then kick back in. The car would also stall like you have described. Turns out the ECU was stuffed and they replaced it with a reco. It took them a while to find the problem and it was very frustrating on my part.

Might not be the same problem for you but if you hear that clicking in the footwell, that's what would check.

might B ur alternator. My TR used to just stop randomly took it to an auto elec checked the alternator found its volts were dropping got a new one from a wrecker, its been fine ever since. U been having any flat batteries?

Do you hear a clicking sound in the passenger footwell?
Does your check engine light come on?

This used to happen in my KR Verada. For no reason the engine would cut out and then kick back in. The car would also stall like you have described. Turns out the ECU was stuffed and they replaced it with a reco. It took them a while to find the problem and it was very frustrating on my part.

Might not be the same problem for you but if you hear that clicking in the footwell, that's what would check.

I can't recall a clicking sound. I believe the engine light does come on but don't quote me on that just yet. I'll take note of those next time it happens. Didn't cut out today.



might B ur alternator. My TR used to just stop randomly took it to an auto elec checked the alternator found its volts were dropping got a new one from a wrecker, its been fine ever since. U been having any flat batteries?

No problems with the battery. Do you know what the standard volts needs to be from the alternator.


CAS problem
Benau, I've printed it off your post. I had a quick look today with some mates at work we shaked the connector and distributor body a bit but it didn't cut out. Gotta go out again now(dinner), I'll have a good look at it tomorrow and take it all off and see if theres any corrosion.

Everyones advice is much appreicated. Sorry I don't have all information at hand. I now have a brief idea of what to look for when it stops sounds etc. I'll keep you's updated on the progress.

If it was the crank angle sensor wouldn't the engine trouble light on the dash be flashing with it's code? Somehow i think it's a spark issue (could be ECU).
I had a similar problem with my tr and after a few call outs to the NRMA who told me it was the crank angle sensor which i replaced didn't fix it. On my way to tip one sunday with a full trailer on the back it finally died, rang the NRMA again they said it could be the ECU,car got towed to auto electrician and the next day they confirmed it was the ECU. I hope this is some help to you.

No problems with the battery. Do you know what the standard volts needs to be from the alternator.

With the car running the voltage should be between 13.8V - 14.0V.

last two days I haven't had the car cut out, even when I've tried to get it to cut out. One my my mates thought it might have something to do with the immobilliser?

Any thoughts on that?

i get a similar problem, ever since i went and got my service done, sometimes when i start it, when the revs go way up on the start and then start to die down to an idle. Sometimes the car will rev down and just stop as if i never even turned it on, weird.

went on a magna cruise down tassie today, no issues. Thats a few days now that I haven't had any problems. Its so random. Very annoying.

Get your ECU out of the car . Nothing dangerous :) Take to somebody who can use solder iron . Inside there are two electrolityc capacitors , have them replaced witch new one , go for good quality stuff , it will cost no more than $2.00 for capacitors plus soldering job if you have to pay for it . I have similar problems with two TR ECU , first did not want to start - sometimes , second one ( paid $400.00 at wrecker )was cutting off on the road ( like yours ) . Then I was ripe for action , after half hour fight ECU was on my desk . Damage was obvious , but after cleaning and soldering in new capacitors , everything was and still is ok . It happend two years ego. In the meantime I open the old ECU , guess what was wrong with that one .
Take notice , when you disconnect ECU it will reset itself , then when handling open ECU pay attention to static electricity , touching metal things before touching ECU will suffice .

My Sister Had The Same Problem
Try Disconnecting The Plug To The Throttle Position Sensor (near Throttle Body)
You Will Probably Find It Has Corrosion On The Terminals That Need Cleaning.
Once Cleaned You Will Probably Find It Will Not Cause To Cut Out