Ok, the sarga of my fuel gauge continues......

about a week ago i installed the geniune mitsubishi 7volt regulator and everything was working perfect, Then i noticed that the gauge would work, then not (as in not move off the e position) then work, etc. So i decided to pull out the cluster again and check for loose connections but there were none, The re installed and still no work, so i decided to check the loom and from my limited auto elec exprience i think i worked out that the gauge isnt actully recieving a signal.....

So i decided to check the fuel sender unit for any loose connections, and couldnt find any, now heres where i need help, can someone suggest how to diagnoses if the sender is actully dead, there are 3 wires connected to it and im assuming 2 are power/ground and one is signal???
The sender thats in there is a second hand one so not sure if it was working properly in the first place???

Sorry bout the long post

Just went for a quick drive, the gauge seems to be moving slighty, from off position to the E bit, the tank probably has about 1/4 of fuel in it atm

Manually move the sender arm, and see if the guage works.

ordinarily if the arm moves its recieving something, as to whether or not its accurate and works all the time, is simply put as 'mitsubishi'
basic lines of testing the sender unit, is
multimeter test the wires, so test for power going to the unit. if power is read then go to 2nd stage
test if a signal can be sent to the gauge. cant remember how to do that, gregories tells how. but yeah, if those 2 work, then the sender is stuffed.
but i thought u got a new sender.
this is why i dont worry. so long as i know fuels in there, its all good :D

haynes:
remove sending unit from tank, reconnect sending unit and using a voltange meter backproble pins 1,2 (looking into the plug pin 1 is on the left) with ignition on 5v should be present to the sending unit, backprobe pins 2,3 with the sending in the lowest position (empty) the voltage should read aprox 0.3 to 0.5v in the full tank position voltage should read aprox 4.35 to 4.7 volts, moving the float up or down should scale the voltage reading smoothly.

Pete

typos are free

i cbf'd fixing mine, after 150k's it shows empty newho, i just usually top up to full all the time, scary watchin consumption tho :( oh and out of interest, hows the new engine on fuel??

Im assuming its got power coz when its full it works, but after about 1/2 tank it drops. so im guessing the actual sender unit is gone? to take it out is it just a matter of removing the screws on top and pulling it out??


hows the new engine on fuel??

When thrashing it it drinks like there is no 2morrow, i have gotten 20L/100ks but when cruising on the highway i got 8.5L/100ks, So aslong as u drive it nicely it wont drink, but it hard to drive it sensibly lol :P

Im assuming its got power coz when its full it works, but after about 1/2 tank it drops. so im guessing the actual sender unit is gone? to take it out is it just a matter of removing the screws on top and pulling it out??

When thrashing it it drinks like there is no 2morrow, i have gotten 20L/100ks but when cruising on the highway i got 8.5L/100ks, So aslong as u drive it nicely it wont drink, but it hard to drive it sensibly lol :P
The sender resistance coil has a short somewhere along it's arm. It's not servicable.

Looks like im gonna get a new one, rang mitsu, got told 150$ for it, was expecting it to be more seeing as its mitsubishi. Rang a couple of wreckers but dont really wanna go used coz it will most likely have the same problem lol

I've not had too many problems with secondhand fuel guage senders, but wagon ones are notoriously unreliable. (I did an analog, and a digital fuel guage sender)