Hi all

Ordered my new 2x150W amp from Jaycar yesterday! Getting the front splits as soon as I get paid next!

Here is what I want eventually:

2x150WRMS to power a 12" (300WRMS) or 10" (250WRMS) sub - on order
One of the above subs - no hurry, will get when I have the money
Morel Pulse 6 splits for the font - in the next couple weeks
Either a 2x80WRMS or a 4x100WRMS(lets me amp rears later if I want to) for the splits - in the next month or so. Will use the 2x150 for now.

Now from wading through posts for the last hour I figure 4guage from battery to distro (thru fuse) and 8guage then to the 2 amps and same for the grounding of the amps.

I was trying to figure last night what would be the best way to connect the 4guage to the battery:
Is this ok? (http://www1.electusdistribution.com.au/productView.asp?ID=674&CATID=&keywords=car+battery&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&SUBCATID=)
But I looked at my battery this morning, and the +ve terminal seems to have 2 cables connected to it which means I would not be able to use that connector... How did yous all connect yours? I liked that jaycar connector because it looks great and would be neat and tidy, but not sure if its any use now.

Also is here a prefered side for running power/signal cables to the boot? I know power and signal go down opposite sides but any particular side? Is it ok for RCAs to run next to the speaker cables?

Cheers
Pete

Hi all

Ordered my new 2x150W amp from Jaycar yesterday! Getting the front splits as soon as I get paid next!

Here is what I want eventually:

2x150WRMS to power a 12" (300WRMS) or 10" (250WRMS) sub - on order
One of the above subs - no hurry, will get when I have the money
Morel Pulse 6 splits for the font - in the next couple weeks
Either a 2x80WRMS or a 4x100WRMS(lets me amp rears later if I want to) for the splits - in the next month or so. Will use the 2x150 for now.

Now from wading through posts for the last hour I figure 4guage from battery to distro (thru fuse) and 8guage then to the 2 amps and same for the grounding of the amps.

I was trying to figure last night what would be the best way to connect the 4guage to the battery:
Is this ok? (http://www1.electusdistribution.com.au/productView.asp?ID=674&CATID=&keywords=car+battery&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&SUBCATID=)
But I looked at my battery this morning, and the +ve terminal seems to have 2 cables connected to it which means I would not be able to use that connector... How did yous all connect yours? I liked that jaycar connector because it looks great and would be neat and tidy, but not sure if its any use now.

Also is here a prefered side for running power/signal cables to the boot? I know power and signal go down opposite sides but any particular side? Is it ok for RCAs to run next to the speaker cables?

Cheers
Pete


i got power running down the drivers side in my car and rca cables and speaker cables running down the passenger side and i have no problem with any interference or any wires in the way

cheers
jaz

Pete:

Yes, those terminals are good, and will do the job nicely. Use one on the negative terminal as well, you need a good earth.

Just some pointers for you that I have just gone through:

1) I would go for the 4x100WRMS, and would actually bridge it into 2x220WRMS or whatever it does. The Morels will take it. Run the 6x9's off the head unit.

2) If you are going to go the 'one fat cable' route, 4ga is too small, and limits your future power if you wanna go to a monoblock with 2x 12's or 15's. I'm telling you nicely, don't go any smaller than 2guage power wire if you are going to do a distro-block setup, or you will have to do it that way later if you wanna upgrade..

3) When you install the power wire, make sure you install the equivalent wiring (for 2guage, either 1x 2guage or 2x 4guage or 4x 8guage) running from earth (the car body and/or engine) back to the negative terminal of the battery. Very important - FHRX and Tim know what I am talking about here :redface: . Don't just wire the amps in and let the vehicle earth take it back.... it won't be good enough. If you use the same battery terminal on the negative side, you can run the wiring directly into it too.

FHRX: a pointer to the Saturday Wrexie pic you took would be nice.....

4) as for the too many cables into the terminal issue, would need a pic. Those battery terminals come in various configurations.

5) Keep the power wire run as short as possible. run it down the same side as your battery, in a 3rd-gen, this is the passenger side. Run the RCA's down the opposite side, but down the side of the 'transmission tunnel' is fine too. It should be 60cm or so for separation, so the power wires down the side of the car, and RCA's down the side of the tunnel is okay. Heaps easier down the side of the car though. RCA's are shielded to ground, but I would try to run all the different wires (power, RCA & Speaker) as far away from each other as I could.

Tim: you not going to say anything?

Nope... :)

Speaker wires can be run anywhere, they dont induce noticeable noise as they are high level. only rca's need to be separated from power lines and 'noisy' areas of the car. If u buy the right rca's and have the right line outs above 4v. U dont even need to worry about this. Many installers run one lot with rca power and speaker wires bundled. But u need to ensure u are using high quality rca's. ~$100 a pop. ;)

Anyway the CPU is a bad spot for engine noise.

The 2x150's already been ordered by the looks, but should do the trick. Another suggestion would be the 4x100 and bridge channel 3 and 4 for the sub. but much of a muchness.

The 2x150 bridged is 500WRMS which is plenty for the 300WRMS sub.
The reason I got the 2x150 now is cause me and another guy @ work put in a order for a bulk buy so we got them @ $100 bucks off the RRP!! :D
So for now I will just run the splits off the 2x150 till I get the sub and other amp..

I could get the 4x100 for the splits and leave a couple channels for rears if I want em...
Why would I get the 4x100 and bridge it for the splits??? Thats even more of an overkill than the 2x150! The splits are only rated at 120WRMS. That would be feeding them with 220W which seems a bit pointless to me. The 4x100 is more expensive as well.

I wont be upgrading to 2x12s or 15s later. What I get now is what stays. I just want some nice tight clean sound that goes moderatly loud on the odd occasion but doesnt wake the whole street when I go past. Hence only 1 10" or 12" sub just to handle the lower bass so I can let the Morels enjoy the midrange easier. So in this case would 4guage be fine?

So for the earthing of the amps... I got a little confused readin your post... I run a short earth (8guage) to the chassis (bolt in the boot somewhere) but also run a 4gauge from this point back to battery as well??

Thanks
Pete

the reason why i wanna stick with 4guage if its enough is that those battery terminals only accept 4guage.

Yep the morels wont need that much im sure the 2x150 will be heaps. Without deadening you wont be able to use that much without ur doors rattling to bits.


Ground should be of equal or larger size than the power. keep the ground at 4 gauge (and as short as possible

4 gauge to the boot will be fine for what u want.

For the levels u are using you wont need to upgrade the ground at the battery. Worst case if you notice any problems u can upgrade the ground at the battery to 4 gauge. This involves a run from the battery ground to the chassis ground in the engine bay (And other spots in the engine bay) I think for your application the stock ground will be fine.

peace

Tim

Yep the morels wont need that much im sure the 2x150 will be heaps. Without deadening you wont be able to use that much without ur doors rattling to bits.
Ground should be of equal or larger size than the power. keep the ground at 4 gauge (and as short as possible
4 gauge to the boot will be fine for what u want.
For the levels u are using you wont need to upgrade the ground at the battery. Worst case if you notice any problems u can upgrade the ground at the battery to 4 gauge. This involves a run from the battery ground to the chassis ground in the engine bay (And other spots in the engine bay) I think for your application the stock ground will be fine.
peace
Tim

will 4 guage from +ve battery to distro be enough to power the amps?

Yep... Easy way to check, decide which amps u are gonna get, add up all their fuses and if that is under 70 amps ul be fine.

in reality I doubt that u'll ever draw 70 amps with ur setup.

But if you plan on upgrading to anything bigger go the 2 gauge option.

I think ul b fine with 4 gauge. Consider 4 gauge everywhere. 4 gauge to distro, 4 gauge to amps, and 4 gauge to ground.

The 2x150 bridged is 500WRMS which is plenty for the 300WRMS sub.
The reason I got the 2x150 now is cause me and another guy @ work put in a order for a bulk buy so we got them @ $100 bucks off the RRP!! :D
So for now I will just run the splits off the 2x150 till I get the sub and other amp..
Yes, I realise that you have already got the 2x150WRMS, and it is a good amp, especially for a single 12".
They are also very good value, and another $100 off is a steal.


I could get the 4x100 for the splits and leave a couple channels for rears if I want em...
Why would I get the 4x100 and bridge it for the splits??? Thats even more of an overkill than the 2x150! The splits are only rated at 120WRMS. That would be feeding them with 220W which seems a bit pointless to me. The 4x100 is more expensive as well.
I recommend the 4x100W for two reasons - flexibilty and power. It spits out more than the 2x80W - with quality speakers you will notice it. With the 4x100 you could 1) amp the font splits and rear 6x9's, or 2) run the 6x9's off your headunit, and bridge the 4x100 into 2x220W (or whatever it is rated at).

You wouldn't run the amp at full pelt in a bridged configuration, it's more about headroom - the amp has power in reserve, and can control the speaker better, which gives cleaner sound than if you were powering it with an amp that is nearly running at capacity. If you are buying Morels, it's a quality speaker, don't run it off an amp that can't provide clean power to it. Each split will handle more than the 80WRMS that the 2x80 will pump out, and while the 4x100W is more expensive, it isn't very much compared to what you are paying for good speakers now, is it?


I wont be upgrading to 2x12s or 15s later. What I get now is what stays. I just want some nice tight clean sound that goes moderatly loud on the odd occasion but doesnt wake the whole street when I go past. Hence only 1 10" or 12" sub just to handle the lower bass so I can let the Morels enjoy the midrange easier. So in this case would 4guage be fine?
I said the same thing when I first got onto modding and audio..... you will change your tune :badgrin:
It's a disease Pete, it really is!
If you go for the 4x100w, I'd go for a 2guage personally, but the 4guage will probably be okay (with sensible gains etc). 4guage with the 2x80W - you'd have no arguments from me.


So for the earthing of the amps... I got a little confused readin your post... I run a short earth (8guage) to the chassis (bolt in the boot somewhere) but also run a 4gauge from this point back to battery as well??
No.... If FHRX posts the shot of the WRX he was working on when I arrived there Saturday, it will all become clear.

I'm talking about running a separate (extra) ground from either the body of the car (chassis) or engine - or both - to the negative terminal on the battery. This could be just a 4guage power wire that adds a ground to somewhere onto the chassis in the engine bay.

You give the power a way to get to the amp (the cable) and it comes back via the vehicle earth. When you start talking these power levels, the earthing provided with the car isn't able to cope with the extra current (it's like an 8 guage kind of size), thus limiting the power getting to the amps. This 8 guage earth carries ALL your power consumed by everything electrical in your car. You have to give all this current a way back to your battery. Give it another path, and it travels easier, and more current can get back to the battery, eliminating a current 'bottleneck' .

the reason why i wanna stick with 4guage if its enough is that those battery terminals only accept 4guage.
There are other ones that Jaycar does that accepts 2 guage.....

Just a quick point, bridging amps causes their damping factor to halve. Which actually means it has less control of the cone.

The figure is fairly irrelevent with most modern amps but still good to be aware of.

The headroom does make up for a lot but there are downsides.

For instance. I run my morel mids off 110 w rms each. This exceeds their power rating and since the gains are down gives them plenty of headroom. If i were to bridge my amp and give them 220 w rms each there would be inudible difference in the headroom department when running at daily driving volumes although the power has doubled. As I might only put 50w rms into each woofer for daily driving. Yet the damping factor has halved. which might be more noticeable.

When u bridge an amp it is the equivalent to running it at two ohms. No difference b/w bridging a two channel amp to run a 4 ohm load. Compared to running both channels with a 2 ohm load.

Damping factor is the amps ability to control the movement of the cone. It is more noticeable with subs as their moving mass is higher...

/ramble...

Peace

Tim :)

2 gauge is also difficult to find. Jaycar stocks it but most car audio places only have 8, 4 or 0. If you can afford the 2 gauge then do it. I was laughed at when I put 0 gauge in. (Back when i was running a few hundred watts. now I am running a couple of kilowatts and people say... hey u really need 0 gauge for that... :doubt: )

Just a quick point, bridging amps causes their damping factor to halve. Which actually means it has less control of the cone.
Yes, but I wouldn't want Pete running a nice set of perfectly good Morels off an 80W/ch amp and frying them.....
The 4x100 would run them better, even if it was running each off a single channel.
My main point was that with the 4x100 he has options, the 2x80 really locks him into doing it one way.


For instance. I run my morel mids off 110 w rms each. This exceeds their power rating and since the gains are down gives them plenty of headroom. If i were to bridge my amp and give them 220 w rms each there would be inudible difference in the headroom department when running at daily driving volumes although the power has doubled. As I might only put 50w rms into each woofer for daily driving. Yet the damping factor has halved. which might be more noticeable.


Damping factor is the amps ability to control the movement of the cone. It is more noticeable with subs as their moving mass is higher...

Point taken. As you say, more noticeable on the subs, I think it would be okay...


When u bridge an amp it is the equivalent to running it at two ohms. No difference b/w bridging a two channel amp to run a 4 ohm load. Compared to running both channels with a 2 ohm load.
Agreed. Consuming and putting out the same amount of power regardless of configuration.


2 gauge is also difficult to find. Jaycar stocks it but most car audio places only have 8, 4 or 0. If you can afford the 2 gauge then do it. I was laughed at when I put 0 gauge in. (Back when i was running a few hundred watts. now I am running a couple of kilowatts and people say... hey u really need 0 gauge for that... :doubt: )
Yes, and I bet you said you were happy with a single 12" at 300W in the beginning Tim..... :badgrin:
I am in the same department as well, I have to upgrade my wiring - the equipment upgrades demand it now....I wish I had done the power wiring properly in the beginning - spent the extra $100-$200 at the time.

okay, Marty must be hell busy, so I went looking and found this.....

http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/fhrxstudios/images/tawrx_1.jpg

You will notice that that bank of blue cables snakes all around the engine bay. They are grounded on the strut brace at top (and one on the other side out of shot) plus the one going off to the left is grounded to the engine. That aluminium mount is then connected to the battery by that thick (2guage??) blue wire.

That's what I mean by extra grounds. Give the power you wanna send to your amps with the 4-guage a way (many really) to get back to the battery.

I watched him do this to a WRX on Saturday morning with RED cable.... very schmick!

He then added into my car a 4-guage wire from my negative terminal to the body in just one place. The difference is incredible.

Ok I will think about getting the 4x100. I will probably only use 2 channels for the splits as it gives more flexibility for rears later if I want.

Will use 4guage everywhere.

16 or 18 guage wires for splits should be fine I imagine, but will I need something like 8guage to the sub (even if its just for bling)?

Thanks for all the advise so far!

Cheers
Pete

just use a decent quality speaker wire and you should be right.

As for sub wire.... just use something designed for 300-600W and you will be sweet.

Sorry to overload you with the info, but something so simple can really affect your SQ and SPL of your system. Hope the image helps with the explaination.

Ok I will think about getting the 4x100. I will probably only use 2 channels for the splits as it gives more flexibility for rears later if I want.

Will use 4guage everywhere.

16 or 18 guage wires for splits should be fine I imagine, but will I need something like 8guage to the sub (even if its just for bling)?

Thanks for all the advise so far!

Cheers
Pete

cool, another system coming along good :)
seeing as though u have already ordered a 2x150, then just stuff it. save up and get a monoblock. 8 gauge for sub is CRAZZYY!! unless you're running like 10 000wrms or something into it lol anything up to 10 is already more than enough.

I have 12 gauge wire everywhere for bling :P but yeah, 16 to 18 is good enough for speakers.

as for fhrx's work on the rex...damn, wish i had the time and money to do that :doubt: I don't even know where on earth the stock cables go! It goes somewhere into the dark abyss of the engine bay i dare not venture into.

oh and don't get a 4x100 just coz u want to 'bridge' it. bridging is the work of the devil :bowrofl:

cool, another system coming along good :)
seeing as though u have already ordered a 2x150, then just stuff it. save up and get a monoblock. 8 gauge for sub is CRAZZYY!! unless you're running like 10 000wrms or something into it lol anything up to 10 is already more than enough.
Monoblock would be great, but its 800W!!! My sub will only be 300W!! So why spend $150 more on something that isnt really used? Would the D-Class be any advantage?
Sweet thanks for that. I'll run 8guage to the sub then save buying another size cable!


I have 12 gauge wire everywhere for bling :P but yeah, 16 to 18 is good enough for speakers.
Yeah I figured that for the splits and rears. Just wasnt sure bout the sub, cause Jaycar had minuture power lines running to theirs!! lol


oh and don't get a 4x100 just coz u want to 'bridge' it. bridging is the work of the devil :bowrofl:
hmm their seems to be very mixed opions on bridging! If i did get the 4x100 i would only use to of the channels for the splits and leave the other 2 for rears if I ever wanted to amp them.

Monoblock would be great, but its 800W!!! My sub will only be 300W!! So why spend $150 more on something that isnt really used? Would the D-Class be any advantage?
Sweet thanks for that. I'll run 8guage to the sub then save buying another size cable!


Yeah I figured that for the splits and rears. Just wasnt sure bout the sub, cause Jaycar had minuture power lines running to theirs!! lol


hmm their seems to be very mixed opions on bridging! If i did get the 4x100 i would only use to of the channels for the splits and leave the other 2 for rears if I ever wanted to amp them.

phwarydoodliey, how do i reply like that in sections? do i just copy paste the [quote] after every paragraph?

anyhows, yeah, u can use a 4ch as a 3 channel, but again, sometimes u come across a 'power supply' issue and of course...THD- distortion factor comes in (previously mentioned my timmeh)

what! only 150 more! hell i'd spend that extra 150 :D

hopefully it will start your endless pursuit for more power and a better system..and snowball into a money, time and brain sucking addiction you can't get rid of for the rest of your life :badgrin:


oh, and NO 8ga speaker cable sub!

phwarydoodliey, how do i reply like that in sections? do i just copy paste the after every paragraph?
Yep!! That was my first go as well!! Im sooo good!! You need both start and finish quotes though
i.e.
QUOTE=XXXXX blah blah blah /QUOTE
for every section. Use the [] around each quote thingy. (I had to delete them as it kept thinking it was a flamin quote!)


what! only 150 more! hell i'd spend that extra 150 :D
hopefully it will start your endless pursuit for more power and a better system..and snowball into a money, time and brain sucking addiction you can't get rid of for the rest of your life :badgrin:
Im already on a very tight budget. I didnt want to spend so much on the Morels, but decided to just take longer getting the sub so I could get better splits.



oh, and NO 8ga speaker cable sub!
I thought you said 10guage was already too much?
So 10 guage is recommended?

Cheers
Pete

Yep!! That was my first go as well!! Im sooo good!! You need both start and finish quotes though
i.e.
QUOTE=XXXXX blah blah blah /QUOTE
for every section. Use the [] around each quote thingy. (I had to delete them as it kept thinking it was a flamin quote!)


Im already on a very tight budget. I didnt want to spend so much on the Morels, but decided to just take longer getting the sub so I could get better splits.



I thought you said 10guage was already too much?
So 10 guage is recommended?

Cheers
Pete


lol you do realise the lower the 'gauge' number the thicker the cable is? so 8 gauge is thicker than 10 gauge...so on and so fourth (is it forth or fourth?)

12 is more than enough for you.

lol you do realise the lower the 'gauge' number the thicker the cable is? so 8 gauge is thicker than 10 gauge...so on and so fourth (is it forth or fourth?)

12 is more than enough for you.

lol yeah I do, but got confused in that last post! I meant thinner than 10guage! So yeah insert 12 instead of 8 and thats what I meant! :D

im eating Natural Jelly Squirms from the natrual confectionary company...

ssssour snakes :D

:spam:

Its coming together!!!

Got a mammoth wafer fuse holder from Jaycar for lots of BLING!! in my engine bay. Everyones gonna think I have a massive system!

Went to JB's tonight and got some Stinger 'Hyper' RCA cables. I hope their alright. They seemed like the middle of the range. Got 2 pairs, 1 for splits, the other for sub. Havent got the sub and wont be for a little while, but thought I may as well run the cables and leave em in the boot while Im doing the rest. Also got some stinger 16AGW purple speaker cable. Got em for $90 which doesnt sound to bad. He gave me about $20 off.

Hopefully going to run the RCAs and speaker cable on saturday. Also going to run a new power cable for the HU as its just running off the stock cable right now. What size would you recommend for the HU?
The when I get the splits I can just make the MDF mounts and solder em in!

Cant wait!!
Pete

Its coming together!!!

Got a mammoth wafer fuse holder from Jaycar for lots of BLING!! in my engine bay. Everyones gonna think I have a massive system!

Went to JB's tonight and got some Stinger 'Hyper' RCA cables. I hope their alright. They seemed like the middle of the range. Got 2 pairs, 1 for splits, the other for sub. Havent got the sub and wont be for a little while, but thought I may as well run the cables and leave em in the boot while Im doing the rest. Also got some stinger 16AGW purple speaker cable. Got em for $90 which doesnt sound to bad. He gave me about $20 off.

Hopefully going to run the RCAs and speaker cable on saturday. Also going to run a new power cable for the HU as its just running off the stock cable right now. What size would you recommend for the HU?
The when I get the splits I can just make the MDF mounts and solder em in!

Cant wait!!
Pete


i think u have the same rca's as me..! goodluck...waiting for pics

Stock powerlines are usually fine for the headunit.

I've never had a problem.

Sometimes there is a problem with stock grounds, but the headunit doesnt draw that much current before it clips anyway. Not meant to be a high performance amp unfortunately.


Peace

Tim

Ok next question... fuses...

Currently I only have 1 1x150W amp and it will be running the 120W Morels.
The Jaycar amp has 3 25A fuses.
So what value fuse do I use at the distro block and what value at the battery?

Will it change depending on whether I use 4guage or 2guage power cable?

Oh and another question... where did you guys go through the back seat? I assume I have to pull the whole seat out... Which side of the car is the computer on, as I will run the RCAs down the opposite side (or the middle along side the transmission tunnel... havent decided yet.)

Cheers
Pete

Ok next question... fuses...

Currently I only have 1 1x150W amp and it will be running the 120W Morels.
The Jaycar amp has 3 25A fuses.
So what value fuse do I use at the distro block and what value at the battery?

Will it change depending on whether I use 4guage or 2guage power cable?

Oh and another question... where did you guys go through the back seat? I assume I have to pull the whole seat out... Which side of the car is the computer on, as I will run the RCAs down the opposite side (or the middle along side the transmission tunnel... havent decided yet.)

Cheers
Pete
The fuse at ur battery should equal all the fuses its powering... (Or lower, but not higher!)
So 75 amps will be fine... 50 amps will be fine too. Easy to replace a fuse.

Irrelevent what size cable u use... for fuse size.

Distro block doesnt need to be fused. As that run already has a fuse from the battery.
If you want to be on the safe side match the total of the fuses that each run is powering.

i went through the backseat on the left side. Unclip the seat (Pull the two tabs gently and lift the sit.) Should be self explanatory from there.

Move the trim from the boot to see the service holes. Be aware of where the seat makes contact to avoid cut wires.

Unplug the ground when working on electrics

PEace

Tim

The fuse at ur battery should equal all the fuses its powering... (Or lower, but not higher!)
So 75 amps will be fine... 50 amps will be fine too. Easy to replace a fuse.

Irrelevent what size cable u use... for fuse size.

Distro block doesnt need to be fused. As that run already has a fuse from the battery.
If you want to be on the safe side match the total of the fuses that each run is powering.

i went through the backseat on the left side. Unclip the seat (Pull the two tabs gently and lift the sit.) Should be self explanatory from there.

Move the trim from the boot to see the service holes. Be aware of where the seat makes contact to avoid cut wires.

Unplug the ground when working on electrics

PEace

Tim

ORDERED MY SPEAKERS 5 MINUTES AGO!!!!! :bouncin:
Ended up getting the Morel Pulse 6s. So cant wait to get em installed!! Im excited! lol

RCAs and speaker cables to the boot all done! :D
Havent run the speakers cables into the doors, as ran out of time and couldn't be bother pulling the doors apart twice. I will run them when I get my speakers.
I ran the RCAs and speaker cable down the RH side of the car following the wires that go into the boot.

Power wire and remote start will be run this weekend down the left hand side along with the remote sub volume level control.

So for now with just one amp running the splits I will need a 60-75A fuse at the battery.. better to have slightly less than the amp so Im guessing 60-70A?
The distro block I was looking at getting has fuses, so 75A would be fine there?

Thanks for all the help so far guys!
Cheers
Pete

Morel.... Nice... Pics when done or during install if possible...

Ive got a few pics of running the wires.

Will be posting them as soon as I get the time.

Smaller the fuse the safer. So go with 60 or 70.

Worst case the fuse will blow. At least ul know how much current ur pulling ;)

Let us know how they go...

Peace

Tim

Ok another question!

Im going to be going 4guage simply because I can then use the Jaycar battery terminals, as I cant find anyone who stocks 2guage battery terminals.
Also rang a few shops and they all said 4 gauge would be fine.
2guage would be better I know, but it limits me in the terminals and distro blocks I want to get quite a bit.

But I was looking at the distro block and battery terminals... they all screw down on the cable to make a connection. Should I tin the cables before screwing down on them? Im just wondering how I will go tinning a 4guage cable. Im not real sure if I like the idea of screwing into the bare copper strands... anyone had any problems before?

Ok another question!

Im going to be going 4guage simply because I can then use the Jaycar battery terminals, as I cant find anyone who stocks 2guage battery terminals.
Also rang a few shops and they all said 4 gauge would be fine.
2guage would be better I know, but it limits me in the terminals and distro blocks I want to get quite a bit.

But I was looking at the distro block and battery terminals... they all screw down on the cable to make a connection. Should I tin the cables before screwing down on them? Im just wondering how I will go tinning a 4guage cable. Im not real sure if I like the idea of screwing into the bare copper strands... anyone had any problems before?

battery terminals :doubt: :doubt: I couldn't be bothered with getting a new battery terminal unless it had a digital readout or something...terminals are useless lol

why do u want a terminal that fits 2ga cable is you are using 4ga? :confused: 2ga is a hard size to find around the place....you'd probably find 4 or 0..

as for tinning....meh, i don't tin my wires, cbf'ed, imagine how much solder you'd need to turn those copper strands into chunky stuff. Its not like you're pulling at your power cables anyway.lol

I dont tin mine. Copper is a better conductor. Why place something that is a worse conductor in between the terminal and the wire. Just make sure all the strands fit in.

Try not to play with the wire too much and mess up the strands. You shouldnt have any problems keeping it neat.

Good to tin if you are constantly removing/reinserting the connection.

4 ga should be fine. You can get 2 gauge ring terminals from jaycar for under $7 each fyi.

Peace

Tim

I dont tin mine. Copper is a better conductor. Why place something that is a worse conductor in between the terminal and the wire. Just make sure all the strands fit in.
Try not to play with the wire too much and mess up the strands. You shouldnt have any problems keeping it neat.
Good to tin if you are constantly removing/reinserting the connection.

4 ga should be fine. You can get 2 gauge ring terminals from jaycar for under $7 each fyi.

Peace

Tim

Yeah I know copper is a better conductor, but I work in electronics and have seen the mess screws can make on copper cables... Well if you guys havent had problems I should be fine.

I saw the 2gauge ring terminals, but Id still have to buy a new battery terminal on top as my screw on the factory one isnt big enough to hold it.


battery terminals I couldn't be bothered with getting a new battery terminal unless it had a digital readout or something...terminals are useless

why do u want a terminal that fits 2ga cable is you are using 4ga? 2ga is a hard size to find around the place....you'd probably find 4 or 0..

as for tinning....meh, i don't tin my wires, cbf'ed, imagine how much solder you'd need to turn those copper strands into chunky stuff. Its not like you're pulling at your power cables anyway.

Im looking at getting the one with the digital readout. Its got a nice big fat hole for the factory wires as well as the 4guage hole and 2x8guage holes. I have 2 factory wires going to my battery so will need a big hole for them.
I was looking for one that would fit 2guage cause I was gonna use 2gauge if it wasnt too much hassle. Turned out its gonna be a pain and most people think 4guage will be plenty.... so 4guage it is.

Yeah I know copper is a better conductor, but I work in electronics and have seen the mess screws can make on copper cables... Well if you guys havent had problems I should be fine.

I saw the 2gauge ring terminals, but Id still have to buy a new battery terminal on top as my screw on the factory one isnt big enough to hold it.



Im looking at getting the one with the digital readout. Its got a nice big fat hole for the factory wires as well as the 4guage hole and 2x8guage holes. I have 2 factory wires going to my battery so will need a big hole for them.
I was looking for one that would fit 2guage cause I was gonna use 2gauge if it wasnt too much hassle. Turned out its gonna be a pain and most people think 4guage will be plenty.... so 4guage it is.

u can go and upgrade your cables while you're at it. I think mulga did a little write up on how to upgraade the cables that go from the negative terminal to the car's chassis n stuff. I have no idea how to do the power cables tho.

I figured...use the stock one and just somehow find your own digital readout thing lol. As for stock cables...weld some ring terminals onto them :badgrin: ..no need to worry about holes :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

Yep 4 ga is plenty for most applications, I dont think ul have any problems with it.

Digital readout is cool too... Get some pics up when ur finished :)

Good luck

I guess I dont need to tell u to fuse :P

MARTY (fhrx for those that dont know) IS AN ABSOLUTE CHAMP!!
I ordered my Morels yesterday morning and they arrived before lunch today!!! :dancin:
Cant wait to get em in!

Went to Jaycar and I will be running 2guage now just for the heck of it! I stripped a bit of insulation off their 2guage cable and it fits with a bit of room on their 4gauge battery terminal! SWEET!! So will be running 2guage simply for extra bling and the extra safety margin.

+ve terminal (http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_7375.jpg)
-ve terminal (http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/productLarge_675.jpg)

So off to JB tonight to get the 2guage Stinger distro (I think eek has one... little 3 way setup).

Will post some photos tonight of the RCA/speaker cable instillation.

Cheers
Pete

P.S. What thickness MDF fits behind the front door trim for custom speaker mounts to replace the factory ones? Anyone got any plans I can get ideas from?

MARTY (fhrx for those that dont know) IS AN ABSOLUTE CHAMP!!
I ordered my Morels yesterday morning and they arrived before lunch today!!! :dancin:
Cant wait to get em in!
I've been saying that for ages.... I'm not even going to bother shopping around anymore.
For someone who gave up an hour or so of his time, and made up a cable for me and didn't charge me, I'm going back every time.


Went to Jaycar and I will be running 2guage now just for the heck of it! I stripped a bit of insulation off their 2guage cable and it fits with a bit of room on their 4gauge battery terminal! SWEET!! So will be running 2guage simply for extra bling and the extra safety margin.
Trust me, you will be glad you did when you find you have $1000 at your disposal and decide you want a 600W monoblock & 2x12" subs..... and in the meantine, your system won't have to work as hard because the voltage will be more stable.....


Will post some photos tonight of the RCA/speaker cable instillation.
Waiting pete......C'mon dude

Finally!! My laptop is in for repairs, so couldnt find the URL for my webspace! lol

But heres some pics!

Dash apart to connect RCAs
http://storage.msn.com/x1p5famgm6n5ZKHKzRLn0s3bO9lnVX4gQwQy1qFrQDHaELAQMR qh8xJS4whKB0UNlW4eeslugzvcEfcQWFIxdUVwXL5GULMuAnG4 OQwApc6uriQKgfoOXbAB1ArFOv-cozIfDh8QHii8nhSTKfV1WuhLQ

Went down the LH side and followed some factory cables into the boot http://storage.msn.com/x1p5famgm6n5ZKHKzRLn0s3bO9lnVX4gQwQy1qFrQDHaEK93jM U98by_JJOriGi6cR6QPyAIfyxWgzRSw7eziiaN3CriqOWbTXFP lBk6UEOxdpE4-1RgMSm7KhjArpGR045i5e-sw89g6HbnGHflOAY-A

The whole back seat out!
http://storage.msn.com/x1p5famgm6n5ZKHKzRLn0s3bO9lnVX4gQwQy1qFrQDHaEJg6eq 7lzxztchxtTPZtUFRZ7TPx27Xh3ToLnRz8byWl183FLqsWs0G_ rjffk_wawSnyEyYk5I5odF24QlTdvg9ZK4BYftmBPQnxK4Gsk5 CMw

Their in!
http://storage.msn.com/x1p5famgm6n5ZKHKzRLn0s3bO9lnVX4gQwQy1qFrQDHaEKt6aT f1fCSkUhVkFN5rT4rm0C_R5STDGFrhtz91coJNeL5UqO10_jLT Kn4jq4CbrqnjvIm0Awd0Gr8ZtgjLpCaqWHsamrRjLf6l07Uh3q GRA

BLING battery terminals are in!!

http://storage.msn.com/x1p5famgm6n5ZKHKzRLn0s3bO9lnVX4gQwQy1qFrQDHaELDjlg Y3tF0tRdEz4-5iUPO7-ouAXZjn-QpyTv5I3VV6mX2LhL2v7XPV-JNOYFlF_pT_erhabLo4ngZLwMzuRjfxlgNWdZbUzS2OuQDhxnY Ug

http://storage.msn.com/x1p5famgm6n5ZKHKzRLn0s3bO9lnVX4gQwQy1qFrQDHaEIav5n ciHMLezUss_XoWWfyG6ZEA3FdnuusnDgcin3WE_Z2xY-o3M32EU34_A40VGI81Z9BDXXSJLfQhwPqzcd95HpJslGs1lZTF 3ezO0J5rg

For the battery terminals I had to re-run the 2 factory +ve cables from the RH side of the battery to around the back of the battery. Now you cant see any cables and the 2 terminals both are on the same angle so it looks much better.
Very easy to do. The hardest thing was cutting the factory terminals off as the cables were tinned. Got bruised hands and a skinned knuckle for my efforts! :D
Now if the rain holds out (It bucketed yesterday and sposed to do the same today! :cry: ) I will try to run my power cable to the boot.
Pete

ok tell me what u did with the original factor cables..did u just cut them off and screw them into the terminals?

also...nice pics..i like ur RCAs :P :D U really didn't need to take out the whole back rest but meh, i bet u had fun

yeah i just cut the factory battery terminals off, stripped a bit of insulation back and screwed them into my new terminals.

haha yeah the RCAs are pretty good! lol

The back seat was easy to get out. The bottom just unclips and pulls out. The top is held in by 3 bolts. Undo them, and lift it up and out and you done!

Ok I went out and got some MDF, glue and screws to make some decent baffles for the splits. Will be going round to my uncles to get some help doing them, as he is a kitchen maker person thingy and has all the tools and know-how. So hopefully they will look pretty sweet when finished. Wont be able to do them till next week sometime though as he's busy. Will post pics.

But Im stuck with the tweeters. Where should I put them? I know the ideal place is in the kick panel, but not sure how to attach them. Ive got some Verada door tweeter mounts on order, but if I use them Im gonna have to run another cable into the doors, as Ive heard that its not a good idea to mount crossovers in the doors. Is this true? If I can mount the crossovers in the doors, should I just screw them directly onto my mdf baffle? That way I dont have to run another wire into the door (this is assuming I use the Verada tweeter pod).
I would like to mount the tweeters in the kick panel, but wondering about stage height and how I would mount them and where to put the crossovers. I know plenty of people here have had this issue before... so if anyone has some suggestions or pis prefferably, fire away!

Cheers
Pete

Crossovers can go anywhere, wire them in behind the kick panel, there's heaps of space there, (just wrap them in foam to stop them rattling
or use double sided tape to attach to something/velcro etc

As for stage height in the kicks, you would be surprised, The more angle you can get on them the better. Best part about mounting in the kicks is reduction in separation caused by mounting in the sails/delta panel.

Best bet is to play around with positioning. try them in the kicks use books/mounts/mdf to temporarily hold them in place then sit in the car when its quiet, shut your eyes, and press play.

Ignore where you see the tweeters, let your brain localise the sound.
Try on axis, then try higher and lower to see differences. Using female vocals is great for this.

Personally i would go with the kicks for sure if possible. What mounting brackets have you got?

Peace

Tim

I just have the brackets that came with the splits.
I can make some small mdf mounts if needed.

they flush mount? or surface mount?

They come with surface mount and flush mount brackets.

Ok had a sick day yesterday (yes I was sick and am off today as well.. flue or something like that) so I made use of the time and got my splits installed. Just used the factory plastic baffles in the doors as havent had time to make the mdf baffles yet.
Tim and fhrx... thanks for the advise when choosing the splits, the Morels are awesome, Im one very happy guy!

Anyway Ive posted some pics below. I havent got any of the woofers in the doors cause the batteries went flat in my camera.

Power cable through firewall - one hell of a job.
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OgkSdhza5TesJIDA8-IiRTztklc46SAOzDLWWa2PfwHnaZySvSiCUEXapovpVFSykJqG orfQw_k1CHB3Wm4tZaaG9V6Hzw6In2yUCvKb3fKs

Perfect fit!!
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OjziYKDh6oxiXH2k7qeR8eFinEl 4hDEszyJnCkHYydlZbu2umYds1wSUtX6pMtm9N1lj3DsrG6VOB 0yYLLtdlUG8QBsTZahzGY5HViZfcvWR

LH Tweeter
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OiREnOkIks7smGZinY3iCKwvo1p 9RSYT6veiTdWHlAp31NDDoLLp1H3AFmqve4Og8Kre2MykqpZwJ wAWZiSEYL1n2zlIEI5-4RVXdzVIKQPU
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4On1KmU5h30M-39PVclbVMQKtB8vkCc8u9kuLbeBqi5VJI7EsdmypZMGTWIMIRb CKFK2eb78xYxC7nLJ829vcFveUqX8y8zJ7NuCESTBHOcGc

I secured the crossovers with heavy duty double sided stickytape. Works a treat!
LH X-Over I stuck up high in the passangers footwell so it couldnt be kicked.
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OkItmTexhNT3yN-GWv4jaTf2tA-S0FPcoPLH6sg78dfXWoF9lqYRVtfqX5VXJjtqr-5-tbp1RYhSuvCq12drijQjDosVr8_GvZOMzevKHOF-

RH X-Over fits neatly behind the fuse box!
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OuedWBnCwmseXVHmZJl9Z5AKTlh fTiwvavKZBecr3C38MvMuS4DCbbMET_IP86skDfO0mhTBKVgd1 QRVRiqAZucJTJ52GOQh0U92fZpZYzlL

This is the RH tweeter, but it gives you some idea of the bracket I made. I simply drilled some holes and screwed a bit of aluminium to the back of the tweeter bracket and then bent it back and used the existing screw in the kick panels there to mount it. Very easy and doesnt look too messy. I have to paint the brackets black now so they dont look as obvious.
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4Ouyb_uPKFEc0UP4zJcxDWl30AXT ijgspav5u3cKhLGy4ILMhp_8K1_HwTfQoy9wOJnarkAL5BNRSQ 5fiI0GzSrESYH7iQ6jieioB9PJp_dki

Looking good...
Good job with the wiring, how come I never saw that grommet in my car :)

Mmmmorel

See if you can get a bit more angle on those brackets to point the tweeters to the opposite headrest. And lift your stage up a bit.

Peace

Tim

I dont recommend using that grommet. It was hell hard as you go straight in and hit the AC. Took me and dad ages to get the 2gauge to bend round. I nearly gave up a few times.

Yeah I have to bend them a bit more. I just moved the tweeter in its housing a bit to point it at the opposite headrests. But yeah its not perfect yet. I was off on a sickie yesterday when I installed them so by the time I finally got em done I was dead, so just left it and crawled into bed.

Cheers
Pete

Come down and give us a listen! :D:D

if your sydney itd be up! lol
how bout I just do a recording and you play it back on your computer speakers... :bowrofl:

Old thread I know, but I just thought I would give an update!!

My doors are all fully sound deadened and service holes sealed up with 3mm MDF with an acoustic tile behind each speaker!! Midbass sounds a lot more alive and pronounced... and the luverly mercedes 'clunck' when shutting the door! :D Will post some pics up in the next couple days!

I have the 12" Response sub in a sealed box in the boot along with two Response 2x150W amps, one for the Morels, and one for the sub. So all that I need to do now is install the amps neatly in the sides of the boot and my system is pretty much complete! Oh and make some MDF baffles eventually. Am one very happy camper! Sounds great, goes damn loud, and I have learnt heaps in the process.

I try to avoid thinking how much Ive spent... $2k just on parts as I did all the labour... OW! The system was only sposed to be $1k max when I first started! lol

Thanks heaps for all the help and advice everyone! Very much appreciated.

Cheers
Pete

More pics!

Empty Service Holes
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OgZzEOtfdIROKQMOLFn9nfl1ZHB 46aEOef-hmxk6qqVOkNCY0Sw4_Y0s5-B39DRJoLaischZamEK-WqO7vr3sFmLyxnVLE8_f7PWSNA20kNvnYWIJbx8Exs

Main hole filled with 3mm MDF and tape (I did a much better job on the passenger's door. The driver's door was my first attempt and wasnt real good). http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4Oor0IPN3HHBGFhqAbpVs4RTxiAG tKwB5FDHF3RriUxLjsLL0yILAipmfwJzUhaDPfMw0ZXQ-KbtOIpZeRhQI6cCRuXhqgldiwDXR5XrNSPzm-oKkmAbtIh0

Completed Driver's Door
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4Oj-KIYZtOcJ_xwwcCmJMpC5l3gAMIAwmheS1RAP6qDYFZZfYA5kZa uyHtxypsDYkxUJWl2ZPoAiMZz3XxYlPifYwK_kTOC1q1AtONHl h9Gb1tn545QmY6iQ

Completed Passenger's Door, as you can see, a much better job with less holes!
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OvdZrhgqvgfUhjlOOsUw5NXuAZH fKuZoViZaufYFU-vRXJ7-YJwDH1mDenvjF7QOezrdZ77-8NOyuUo2q73pDMT0ZUlap1G9EWhjoVUqbpVFmxeay_-2mVM

Pics of sub and boot coming soon!
Pulled the acoustic tiles out this morning as well and glued them in properly instead of double sided sticky tape! :D

Cheers
Pete

DOOFDOOF!!
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OmT2jZdFzw58pYVR5Kg79G69W2y KAv0WjnnEQY6LwNsJDY3xNLpEk3iYskT-mnvhTqcTGdn6LrPa9SwaVu0Y86DRMe_Ox_aYnN2WwlVLs7SsVk UocfDuPlE

Messy boot install!! Hopefully getting the amps installed in the sides of the boot soon with all wiring hiden. http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OnRUHzWmT5mr3Zi8D96iZ9rBoBo cwvUL1xcbPwgiJquj6PePKRm0T2Uz3mowvSgh-yvAAAb0G85mYnjCf5r6OvsGGxnwb6EqTxkxiK_OVaie4hF5F3g lU3E

Nice job on the sound deadening.

I am yet to do that to my TP doors, so your pics are very helpful.