Recentley i got a high flow throttle body put on my car from rpw, i was very happy with the performance but now i have an annoying problem. Basically it idles like **** now, and stalls all the time when cold because the idle goes up and down and can't hold it steady. Has anyone had this problem before and what was done to correct it. The oxygen sensor has just been replaced so it aint that. My car is a 96 te manual. thanks.

hmm, just out of curiousity, have many ppl experienced this problem when getting their throttle bodies flowed??

getting mine done soon and a little curious :confused:

Has the TPS been correctly put back on right, i mean has it been adjusted correctly.

Check the EZBoy Throttle body thread... he says sometimes he does not tighten the idle screw enough.

Instructions are in the thread. Could be that.

Otherwise, check that the butterfly is closing fully and sealing properly. Something was mentioned abour RPW using paint to seal the unit correctly..

i didn't put it on rpw did. Ive brought it in about three times now. The electronic reading is right and the idle screw is right. Every time it gets checked out the worse it becomes.

What you have to do is reset the computer. Leave the battery off for the night then chuck it back on in the morning. Expect to stall a fair few times so be carefull. Mine was fine after about 20 minutes of around town driving. At the start of the 20 min I stalled about 5 times. The idle will go back to normall and it will drive awesome. Mine is still revving a bit high but i like it that way. Can really notice the responsiveness after get my TB flowed

We tried doing that but we only left the battery off for about 5 minutes. Maybe it will fix itself eventually. I'll try leaving it off for the whole night and see what happens.

We tried doing that but we only left the battery off for about 5 minutes. Maybe it will fix itself eventually. I'll try leaving it off for the whole night and see what happens.

You need to leave the battery off for at least 20 minutes for the ecu to reset itself

Are you sure the TPS is set right?

Follow these steps to ensure it is, as I had the same problem you did a while ago and this fixed it:

ADJUSTMENT OF IDLE POSITION SWITCH AND
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
(1) Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector.

(2) Using jumper wires, connect an ohmmeter across terminal
3 (idle position switch) and terminal 4 (sensor ground) of
the throttle position sensor.

(3) Insert a 0.65-mm-thick feeler gauge between the fixed SAS
and throttle lever.

(4) Loosen the throttle position sensor mounting bolts and turn
the TPS body fully counterclockwise.

(5) In this condition, check that there is continuity across
terminals 3 and 4.

(6) Slowly turn the throttle position sensor clockwise until you
find a point at which there is no continuity across terminals
3 and 4. Then, tighten the throttle position sensor
mounting bolt securely.

(7) Connect the throttle position sensor connector.

(8) When using the multi-use tester, connect it to the diagnosis connector.

(9) When not using the multi-use tester, proceed as follows:
*Disconnect the throttle position sensor connectors and
connect the special tool, Test Harness Set, between
the disconnected connectors.
*Connect a digital voltmeter between the throttle position
sensor terminal 2 (sensor output) and teminal 4 (sensor ground).

(lO)Turn the ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine).

(11) Check the throttle position sensor output voltage.
When using the multi-use tester, select item No. 14 and
read the throttle position sensor output voltage.
Standard value: 400 - 1,000 mV

(12)lf the voltage is out of specification, check the throttle
position sensor and associated harnesses.

(13)Remove the feeler gauge.

(14)Turn the ignition switch OFF.


ADJUSTMENT OF FIXED SAS

(A) The fixed SAS has been factory-adjusted. Never attempt to
move it.

(B) Should it be out of proper adjustment, adjust by following
the procedure given below.

(1) Sufficiently slacken the accelerator cable.

(2) Loosen the lock nut on the fixed SAS.

(3) Sufficiently loosen the fixed SAS by turning it counterclockwise
to fully close the throttle valve.

(4) Tighten the fixed SAS slowly to find a point at which it
contacts the throttle lever (where the throttle valve starts
opening). From that point, tighten the fixed SAS further 1 l/4
turns.

(5) Holding the fixed SAS to prevent it from turning, tighten the
lock nut securely.

(6) Adjust the accelerator cable tension.

(7) Adjust the basic idle speed.

(8) Adjust the idle position switch and throttle position sensor
(TPS).


BASIC IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
NOTE
(A) The basic idle speed has been factory-adjusted with the
speed adjusting screw (SAS) and does not normally require
adjustment.

(B) If the adjustment is required, first check that the ignition
plug, injector, ISC servo, and compression pressure are
normal.

(1) Before starting the inspection and adjustment procedures,
set the vehicle in the following conditions:
*Engine coolant temperature: 80 to 95°C (176 to 205°F)
*Lights, electric cooling fan, accessories: OFF
*Transaxle: Neutral (P range on vehicles with automatic
transaxle)
*Steering wheel: Straightforward position

(2) When using the multi-use tester, connect it to the diagnosis
connector.
NOTE
The connection of the multi-use tester grounds the selfdiagnosis/
data transmission selector terminal.
(3) When not using the multi-use tester, proceed as follows:
*Insert a paper clip into the l-pin blue connector
*Connect a primary-voltage-detecting tachometer to the
paper clip.
NOTE
The tacho/neter should read l/3 of the actual engine
speed. This means that the actual engine speed is the
tachometer reading multiplied by 3.
*Using a jumper wire, ground the self-diagnosis/data
transmission selector terminal (terminal 10) of the
diagnosis connector (white).

(4) Remove the waterproof female connector from the ignition
timing adjusting connector (brown).

(5) Using a jumper wire, ground the ignition timing adjusting
terminal.

(6) Start the engine and run at idle.

(7) Check the basic idle speed.
When using the multi-use tester, select item No. 38 and
read the idle speed.
Basic idle speeci: 700 + 50 rpm

NOTE
(A) The engine speed may be low by 20 to 100 rpm while
the vehicle is new [distance driven approx. 500 km (300
miles) or less], but no adjustment is necessary.
(B) If the engine stalls or speed is low despite a sufficient
distance driven [approx. 500 km (300 miles) or more], it
is probably due to deposits on the throttle valve. In this
case, clean the throttle valve.

(8) If the basic idle speed is out of specification, adjust by
turning the speed adjusting screw (SAS).

NOTE
If the idle speed is higher than the standard value even with
SAS fully tightened, check to see if there is evidence of the
idle switch (fixed SAS) being moved. If the idle switch
seems to have been moved, adjust it. If it does not seem to
have been moved, there may be a leak caused by
deteriorated fast idle air valve (FIAV). In such a case, replace
the throttle body.

(9) Turn the ignition switch OFF.

(lO)When the multi-use tester has not been used, remove the
jumper wire from the self-diagnosis/data transmission
s e l e c t o r t e r m i n a l .

(11)Remove the jumper wire from. the ignition timing adjusting
terminal and replace the connector back again.

(12)Start the engine again and run at idle for 10 minutes to
make sure that the engine runs at proper idle speed.


The SAS is the part where the accellerator cable holding part on the t/b comes to rest against when fully closed. This should NEVER be moved, but in this case it might have been moved whilst being worked on. You should check to make sure it's right as well.

The first part of Killbilly post is the crunch one, often overlooked.

Thanks Kill Billy you put quite an effort into that. I got it fitted down at rpw do you think that they wouldn't already know exactly what to do? I expect that they will fix it considering i paid for it to work as it should, i just hope they know what there doing.

RPW hmmmm :doubt:

May give Dave a rocket to let him know, and see if he'll do anything (he should do) if he has no idea, give hime a printout of Killbillys post and hand it to him, see what he says, and if he does anything

Dave has been very nice and continues to check it out when ever i have problems. I am just worried he might get offended if i gave him the list, i did think of that earlier

No worries guys, the truth is some guys at another forum wrote that out for me and I've saved it as a word document for situations like this hahah

But I did all of those steps and it works perfectly.

I'd be inclined to do the work myself if I were you. I know there's the principle of them doing it right, but it'd be far easier just to do it yourself and then you know it's done right.

That's nothing against Dave or his workers, it's just what I'm like. What I can do myself I will

Oh yeah and the Idle adjustment is for a DOHC 24v 6G72, so Im not sure if it's exactly right for the other engines, but everything else is ok

No worries guys, the truth is some guys at another forum wrote that out for me and I've saved it as a word document for situations like this hahah

But I did all of those steps and it works perfectly.

I'd be inclined to do the work myself if I were you. I know there's the principle of them doing it right, but it'd be far easier just to do it yourself and then you know it's done right.

That's nothing against Dave or his workers, it's just what I'm like. What I can do myself I will

Oh yeah and the Idle adjustment is for a DOHC 24v 6G72, so Im not sure if it's exactly right for the other engines, but everything else is ok

Same for the 6G74.

The OEM TB doesn't seal perfectly - this is further highlighted once the lip is removed either side of the butterfly. Now the air has an easier path to the BF and can get around it in places. All bf's are different! Higher idle results.

Playing with the TPS adjustment is easy to do. If your car is really out of sorts, it can be adjusted by hand and sound to get the car running better until further action can be undertaken.

Because RPW and I use exchange TB's, we're at the mercy of the TB's previous life. These units contain plastics that can be damaged by solvent cleaners. I use kerosine to clean down my TB's for that reason. It doesn't guarantee that someelse hasn't cleaned the TB or inlet header with a solvent substance in the past.

Most idle and stalling problems will be resolved using the fix posted by Killbilly (it's straight from the MMAL workshop manual).

Good luck.

Same for the 6G74.

Cheers dude, I guessed it'd be the same, just wasn't sure.



Most idle and stalling problems will be resolved using the fix posted by Killbilly (it's straight from the MMAL workshop manual).


aahhh! I knew I'd seen it somewhere before when the guy posted it up for me lol