FIXED MY AIR SCREW FOR THE AIR CON HAD WOUND DOWN WITH DRIVING VIBRATION; I RULE

Hello,
today i replaced my fuel filter and it was not the reason i have been losing top end.

I drove home from a mates house and all was a ok. Driving to soccer train was a different story. I give the car a squirt to get over this hill and in neutral the revs don't come back from 4000 where it was at. I pull up and turn the car off as it is loud as and rev its guts out. First check to see if throttle is stuck. That is fine, next ring up mechanic mate andwe thought it was the mas. Happened to have a 4cyl tr efi here and swap over mas' and it still revs to the ****. Next we look for **** electrical connections and find none except the tps looks fairly suspect.

Pull it off and the voltage readings through all the terminals are ok, it says it needs a continuous resistance otherwise replace, measure it and its huge about 150ohms. So it looks like the tps is stuffed.
What i want to know is even though its not continuous is it still ok, or would this definately be faulty. Every time i start the car it revs to redline.
Also who would be the best to get to have a looksie, i know an auto electrician would know but would a normal mechanic be able to help me out.

Anybody get any ideas???

i dunno about the readings ur gettin from the tps.. but from whats happening id say its most probably that is what is causin the problems.

just as another thought, while in gear it was revving normally then clutch in ---> what the ****....auto electrician??

maybe the ics even?

get a mechanic to check it out.. whatever it is shouldn cost toooo much to fix.. these are 'usual' 2nd gen problems..

im just waiting for mine to start doin similar things.... :doubt:

i meant isc

no reason why a normal mechanic shouldnt know how to fix it

my mate is a normal mechanic, ill give them the other mechanics a call...i dont think i can move it though it just revs out, need one of those diagnosis tools, its ****ing giving me the ****s

I'd really check out your ISC motor (Idle Speed Controller). Mine did exactly like yours, and in the end it just wasn't driveable.

But that has nothing to do with your top end being bad.

cover up the vacuum holes in your throttle body to see if it solves the problem (Note covering the vacuum holes will mean no air will pass through at all when the butterfly is closed, so it won't idle properly unless you give it a tad of a throttle).

There should be about four holes, a pair leads to the ISC servo, and the other pair is a passive passage (cant remember exactly). Basically this will bypass the ISC and this will tell you whether it is the ISC motor that is causing problems.




P.S. YOu gotta start posting on the "Tech" forums, not in the "General" forums dude.

ok checked out the isc no power through the harness all else is right with the isc. Says rip out the fuel injection control relay i did so now i have it out but i'm suppose to jumper some power from the battery to certain terminals, which i don't how to do. Would some speaker cable from the battery to the right terminals do the trick??

I was tempted to disconnect the power to the isc but these tests with the multimeter appear to say that it is the fuel injection relay. So maybe it could have affected power but im not sure. I have to test the electrical connectors to the FIC relay so ill do that now and get back to you guys. I hope it is the actual FIC relay otherwise it's not a good sign; harness??.
Thanks for the help

oh what does it mean by this; battery voltage should be present on the terminal corresponding to the relay terminal no. 10 at all times. What is the terminal corresponding?? next too??
thanks

Ahh, I'm lost. Go back a bit, who is saying to rip out the Fuel Injection Control Relay and bypassing it with a direct power source?

that was my haynes manual, check to see if the FICR was working, but it was just the air screw for air con, hahahahahahah i ****ing suck