Hi Guys,

Well I have had my Ralliart for just over 2 weeks and I am keen to get the mods happening, but am unsure of where to begin.

Is there a 'standard' top three mods that you can do to the Ralliart to get a bit more power, I was thinking, K&N Panel Filter replacement, Chip and Exhaust.

What have others done????

Cheers! Evan

hey bud, i pulled 134 ATW on the weekend with Exhaust, Pod, and bigger free flowing extractors, cost me less than a grand ;)

hey bud, i pulled 134 ATW on the weekend with Exhaust, Pod, and bigger free flowing extractors, cost me less than a grand ;)



i say wat a waste of money coz in qld ralliartrick pulled the same power stock as :doubt:

i say wat a waste of money coz in qld ralliartrick pulled the same power stock as :doubt:

manual?

would bald tyres make a difference do you think? would they be slipping slightly?

ah well, MUCH less than a grand... more like $200 total lol

god i love having mates who are mechanics ;)

yes manual, still on the stock pirelli he had it for a while now (ralliart)

i say wat a waste of money coz in qld ralliartrick pulled the same power stock as :doubt:
It all comes down to the dyno, each one gives a different reading. A "stock" ralliart manual should have around 135-140Kw's @ wheels but that was on the factory dyno.
Thats why if you do mods to your car you should always try to use the same dyno so as to get an accurate reading of what the mods achieved.

apparently dynos arent that accurate anyways... is that so?

It all comes down to the dyno, each one gives a different reading. A "stock" ralliart manual should have around 135-140Kw's @ wheels but that was on the factory dyno.
Thats why if you do mods to your car you should always try to use the same dyno so as to get an accurate reading of what the mods achieved.




well he used two set of dyno and pulled the same stock power so wat does it mean? its accurate

well he used two set of dyno and pulled the same stock power so wat does it mean? its accurate

Stuffed if i know, but wasnt it said that the Qld dyno was reading a bit low on saturday?

i gots nfi then... maybe the dyno we used was out?

its the first time ive done it so i dont have anything to compair it too

ah well, im happy... w000t

well i believe so, which means he would've got more that 134kw then as stock between 2 dyno's

yeah.... w000t

im gonna have to have a look on another dyno then, see what i gots :D

how much torque did he get? stock is 333

lord seiryu im not tryin to put u down mate just confused

yeah.... w000t

im gonna have to have a look on another dyno then, see what i gots :D

how much torque did he get? stock is 333

Really the only "accurate" way is to pull the engine out and stick it on a engine dyno. Thats what we did to mine when it was built.

K&N panel, muffler and UniChipped was worth about 10% or so, Filter = $125, Muffler = $300, Chip $1200.

yeah.... w000t

im gonna have to have a look on another dyno then, see what i gots :D

how much torque did he get? stock is 333




ill check with megatron coz he holds all the slip i believe

i gots nfi then... maybe the dyno we used was out?

its the first time ive done it so i dont have anything to compair it too

ah well, im happy... w000t

No the Graham West dyno is pretty good, but I think it reads lower than other dynos that people use in the Eastern States. As has been said here before, you can really only compare numbers from the same dyno (and then probably only on the same day!)



hey bud, i pulled 134 ATW on the weekend with Exhaust, Pod, and bigger free flowing extractors, cost me less than a grand

Just for reference, I ran my stock-as-a-rock Ralliart manual across the Graham West dyno in February and got 130 KW ATW. I reckon it would run a couple of extra KW on a cooler day. Kinda interesting numbers given I haven't modified it in any way...

lord seiryu im not tryin to put u down mate just confused

thats k man, no worries, im not taking offence... im cof00zed too lol

thats k man, no worries, im not taking offence... im cof00zed too lol



thankz man coz im on the same boat spend a few doughs on mods and got a low reading ill try to get dyno again ont eh same place and see if theres a diff

thankz man coz im on the same boat spend a few doughs on mods and got a low reading ill try to get dyno again ont eh same place and see if theres a diff
i think my pod may be *** it up too... HELL quick job...

car seems to wanna stall occasionally now... could the pod be *** with the MAF sensor? anyone else had this trouble?

i think my pod may be *** it up too... HELL quick job...

car seems to wanna stall occasionally now... could the pod be *** with the MAF sensor? anyone else had this trouble?


If you are running a round pod rather than an oval pod, then yeah, it's going to be confusing the heck out of your MAF sensor.

If you are running a round pod rather than an oval pod, then yeah, it's going to be confusing the heck out of your MAF sensor.
yer it be the round pod poverty pack im a tightass simota pod lol

when it goes on my CAI will it be better?

btw where would i get teh cables for extending the maf sensor?

yer it be the round pod poverty pack im a tightass simota pod lol

when it goes on my CAI will it be better?

btw where would i get teh cables for extending the maf sensor?

Just a word mate i had a K&N pod mounted down low and it got a gut full of water and f**ked the maf sensor, so ive gone back to a K&N panel filter with a cold air feed to it.

Just a word mate i had a K&N pod mounted down low and it got a gut full of water and f**ked the maf sensor, so ive gone back to a K&N panel filter with a cold air feed to it.

yeah ive heard that too man, im thinking the heat shield you can buy for them woul stop the best part of water flicking up from the road if it faces the road? any better mebbe?

yeah ive heard that too man, im thinking the heat shield you can buy for them woul stop the best part of water flicking up from the road if it faces the road? any better mebbe?

Not sure, i wasnt going to risk it cos my cars fairly low and all so i just went back to standard airbox/K&N panel with extra pickup for safety.
I havnt noticed any power drop but i have lost that good induction noise.

Not sure, i wasnt going to risk it cos my cars fairly low and all so i just went back to standard airbox/K&N panel with extra pickup for safety.
I havnt noticed any power drop but i have lost that good induction noise.

yeah, i reckon ill mount it as far under the front bar as i can to stop water, + the heatshield and we should be cooking with gas...

will let you all know wheeee

yeah, i reckon ill mount it as far under the front bar as i can to stop water, + the heatshield and we should be cooking with gas...

will let you all know wheeee

Cool mate

Cool mate

lol hopefully i dont f*ck this up lol :D

lol hopefully i dont f*ck this up lol :D

Just dont go swimming with the car :bowrofl:

Just dont go swimming with the car :bowrofl:

yer, no more ful sik RALLI puddles lol ;)

My car got 114kws before the extractors were put on and now with extractors i got 1kw more :doubt:

I guess different dyno's is to blame there. I know my car is capable of 117-118
Im going to take it to this other dyno :P


:cool:

yer it be the round pod poverty pack im a tightass simota pod lol

when it goes on my CAI will it be better?

btw where would i get teh cables for extending the maf sensor?

K&N make a pod filter just for the magna style MAF sensor because the way the round pods affect the air confuses the hell out of it. Basically with a round pod the MAF sensor can't get an accurate measure of the volume of air passing through it so you get an inaccurate signal sent to the ECU which means ignition timing and fuel quantities are coming from the wrong part of the map.

I expect you'd solve the problem by keeping the MAF in the stock position and running a long length of pipe down to the pod because the air flow might straighten out on the way up the pipe, but if you take the usual approach of relocating the MAF sensor so it's directly behind the pod it won't do jack since you're not changing anything.

Simple solution - fork out the dosh for an oval pod :D

Simple solution - fork out the dosh for an oval pod :D

buuuut then ill ruin my "im a tightass" theme that ive taken so far :(

lol

buuuut then ill ruin my "im a tightass" theme that ive taken so far :(

lol

I'll help you out. I got a K&N Pod you can have for free


NOT!

I'll help you out. I got a K&N Pod you can have for free


NOT!
*adam sandlers voice*

haaaaaaaaahahahahahahahaha SHUTUP!!!!!!!

So...VRXACT, back to your question.

If you want more power straight up, fit a piggyback ECU tuned to run 98RON and a K&N panel filter. If you get a Haltech, the new ones have a tune switchable feature which means you can have two tunes done on the dyno and switch between them with a dash mounted switch ie one for 98 RON one for 92RON. I've been in Daniels which is tuned for 98RON and it is a noticable improvemnent over standard with his car pulling harder than mine. I'll still whip his arse around Wakefield though :bowrofl:

I'm not convinced any mods on the exhaust side of things will make any difference on the Ralliarts at this level of tune. The new manifolds by RPW ($1,100) look the goods too and with a chip might get you to 211kw or better. This is what I'll be doing when I get the cash.

Before engine mods though, I personally would fit a whiteline adjustable rear sway bar and a whiteline anti lift/castor kit (all up around $550). Go see Chris at Inline, Queanbeyan.


.

i dont know whats going on with the kw figures with your ralliarts just take a look at tzaboys rallyart hes got some nice kw atw with what he has done to his plus on another note just so you all know my car pulled 130kw on the dyno and i have a 2001 tj advance with headers and exhaust pod filter and high flowed throttle body

i dont know whats going on with the kw figures with your ralliarts just take a look at tzaboys rallyart hes got some nice kw atw with what he has done to his plus on another note just so you all know my car pulled 130kw on the dyno and i have a 2001 tj advance with headers and exhaust pod filter and high flowed throttle body

it sure did, i saw it with my own eyes! thats one freaky magna u have there though man!

So...VRXACT, back to your question.

If you want more power straight up, fit a piggyback ECU tuned to run 98RON and a K&N panel filter. If you get a Haltech, the new ones have a tune switchable feature which means you can have two tunes done on the dyno and switch between them with a dash mounted switch ie one for 98 RON one for 92RON. I've been in Daniels which is tuned for 98RON and it is a noticable improvemnent over standard with his car pulling harder than mine. I'll still whip his arse around Wakefield though :bowrofl:

I'm not convinced any mods on the exhaust side of things will make any difference on the Ralliarts at this level of tune. The new manifolds by RPW ($1,100) look the goods too and with a chip might get you to 211kw or better. This is what I'll be doing when I get the cash.

Before engine mods though, I personally would fit a whiteline adjustable rear sway bar and a whiteline anti lift/castor kit (all up around $550). Go see Chris at Inline, Queanbeyan.


.


i no understand this what is 98ron and 92 ron :confused:

i have had mine dynoed twice on same dyno and got two different power outputs go figure hey :nuts:

i no understand this what is 98ron and 92 ron :confused:

98 RON = Premium Unleaded
92 RON = Regular Unleaded

ok thanx on the same page now :D

Hi Guys,

Well I have had my Ralliart for just over 2 weeks and I am keen to get the mods happening, but am unsure of where to begin.

Is there a 'standard' top three mods that you can do to the Ralliart to get a bit more power, I was thinking, K&N Panel Filter replacement, Chip and Exhaust.

What have others done????

Cheers! Evan
Have a look at my avatar. 143.8kw ATW before mods, 152.5 after. Have dyno to prove it too. :D

Have a look at my avatar. 143.8kw ATW before mods, 152.5 after. Have dyno to prove it too. :D

that seem pretty high?

Have a look at my avatar. 143.8kw ATW before mods, 152.5 after. Have dyno to prove it too. :D

now thats what i like to see out of a ralliart :D

So...VRXACT, back to your question.

If you want more power straight up, fit a piggyback ECU tuned to run 98RON and a K&N panel filter. If you get a Haltech, the new ones have a tune switchable feature which means you can have two tunes done on the dyno and switch between them with a dash mounted switch ie one for 98 RON one for 92RON. I've been in Daniels which is tuned for 98RON and it is a noticable improvemnent over standard with his car pulling harder than mine. I'll still whip his arse around Wakefield though :bowrofl:

I'm not convinced any mods on the exhaust side of things will make any difference on the Ralliarts at this level of tune. The new manifolds by RPW ($1,100) look the goods too and with a chip might get you to 211kw or better. This is what I'll be doing when I get the cash.

Before engine mods though, I personally would fit a whiteline adjustable rear sway bar and a whiteline anti lift/castor kit (all up around $550). Go see Chris at Inline, Queanbeyan.


.
I have to second the recommendation, the U/G rear swaybar and antilift/caster kit makes a hell of a difference, go see Chris! Money well spent.

I vote someone spend the dosh to get one of these RPW manifolds and do so some proper before and after testing! $1100 for another 10kw, mmm...

Give me some more practice and we'll see about wakefield again :D EDIT: SOOO MUCH FUN!!!

Have a look at my avatar. 143.8kw ATW before mods, 152.5 after. Have dyno to prove it too. :D
I got 133.7kw before, 147.5kw after tune.




98 RON = Premium Unleaded
92 RON = Regular Unleaded


92 or 91? Regular
95 Premium
98 Optimax/Vortex 98 etc.

92 or 91? Regular
95 Premium
98 Optimax/Vortex 98 etc.[/QUOTE]


Don't forget the old Woolies petrol. That's about 75RON! In fact, you can raise the octane rating in by adding water :bowrofl:

And Daniel, I think your probably at least as fast as me around Wakeifield now that you've learnt to stay on the track :D


.

Cummins,
Just how much of the gains achieved with the Unichip was achieved by playing around with the air/fuel mixtures alone?

When I start my Ralliart up she appears to smell like she's running a lot richer than my old Magna ever did...

I only ever run 98RON in my baby.

And Daniel, I think your probably at least as fast as me around Wakeifield now that you've learnt to stay on the track :D


.
For some reason it's a bit slow in the gravel, thought the ralli bit might help :D

Ralliart-AKKO:
They run quite rich, not sure how much each contributed to the result, sorry.

Thanks, be interesting to see just how much power she has left on tap (stock) by leaning her out a bit with the aid of a decent piggy-back & tune even before any intake/exhaust mods are done...

that seem pretty high? I was pleasent surprised to. But I am no mechanic so I can't comment. Here is the dyno.


[edit] Oh, and sorry for the misleading I wrote the numbers the other way around. It was 143.5 and 152.8 and not how first stated. :D

yer it be the round pod poverty pack im a tightass simota pod lol

when it goes on my CAI will it be better?

btw where would i get teh cables for extending the maf sensor?






lord seiryu hav u seen jowet's set up on his vrx he pulled 129kw atw he got a round pod as well but it was about a foot away from the maf sensor i think if the pod is closer to the maf it gives u wrong reading.

lord seiryu hav u seen jowet's set up on his vrx he pulled 129kw atw he got a round pod as well but it was about a foot away from the maf sensor i think if the pod is closer to the maf it gives u wrong reading.

naw i havnt seen that one, i might try to get him on a pm... cheers bud :D

Don't forget different dynos are going to give different readings and are not directly comparable.

Thanks Guys, looks like I am off to see Chris this weekend.

I will let you know how I go.

Cheers! Evan

Thanks Guys, looks like I am off to see Chris this weekend.

I will let you know how I go.

Cheers! Evan

lol cheers mate...

email me pics w000t