Hi,

i just got a TW VRX with 5000 k's, i'm thinking of changing the oil around 7500 k's, now the windscreen has a castrol sticker, and says it only uses castrol, does anyone know what sort, as i would change it myself with the same oil, then take it to them for the 15k service, is it magnatec or anything purchasable like at supercheap etc etc?

castrol magnitic is crap. Try mobil s or 1 i use valvoline 10/30 choose an oil and use it all the time, Cause mine was a Xrental car from work from day 1 it used valvoline syinthic 10/30 so thats wat i continue to use.

Hi,

i just got a TW VRX with 5000 k's, i'm thinking of changing the oil around 7500 k's, now the windscreen has a castrol sticker, and says it only uses castrol, does anyone know what sort, as i would change it myself with the same oil, then take it to them for the 15k service, is it magnatec or anything purchasable like at supercheap etc etc?





man my advice try search forum this will become a "dejavu". some will say this is crap other say use this but its about ur preference and budget wise, coz not all of us are rich like others :badgrin:

Hi,

i just got a TW VRX with 5000 k's, i'm thinking of changing the oil around 7500 k's, now the windscreen has a castrol sticker, and says it only uses castrol, does anyone know what sort, as i would change it myself with the same oil, then take it to them for the 15k service, is it magnatec or anything purchasable like at supercheap etc etc?

The standard Mitsu Oil is 15W50, I'm not sure who makes it.

We use a Castrol 15W50 in nearly all the petrol cars we service.

Rob

The standard Mitsu Oil is 15W50, I'm not sure who makes it.

We use a Castrol 15W50 in nearly all the petrol cars we service.

Rob

My local Mitsu dealer uses Castrol 10w50 (or maybe 40), i suppose there isn't heaps of difference.

it's very simple... if you not using a "good" synthetic your not using a good oil...(really it doesn't take a genius to work that out)...
Remember Castrol MagnaCrap is just a Mineral/Synthetic blend so any semi-synthetic from a reputable manufacturer ie Shell/Mobil would be just as good.
People seem to have the misguided perception that becuase Magnatec has the word "Magna" in it it must be perfect for Magna's :nuts: Magnatec would be cheaper if they didn't spend so much on marketing (bullshi*ing) and supporting aussie cricket... wtf?
ps: even though I would not use Magnatec I would say it would be MUCH better than Mitsubishi's crappy mineral oil, BP3000 or whatever (i use it in my lawn mower, no joke...)

it's very simple... if you not using a "good" synthetic your not using a good oil...(really it doesn't take a genius to work that out)...
Remember Castrol MagnaCrap is just a Mineral/Synthetic blend so any semi-synthetic from a reputable manufacturer ie Shell/Mobil would be just as good.
People seem to have the misguided perception that becuase Magnatec has the word "Magna" in it it must be perfect for Magna's :nuts: Magnatec would be cheaper if they didn't spend so much on marketing (bullshi*ing) and supporting aussie cricket... wtf?
ps: even though I would not use Magnatec I would say it would be MUCH better than Mitsubishi's crappy mineral oil, BP3000 or whatever (i use it in my lawn mower, no joke...)


umm dude for a start, your ill-informed. 1) Magnatec is NOT semi-synthetic, its fully synthetic, 2) i dont think people are that stupid that they only use magnatec cos its got the word magna in it :nuts: 3) wtf difference does it make whos advertising it? it makes no difference to the product it just helps them make sales and 4) ITS A BLOODY FAMILY CAR ENGINE! it doesnt need $60 per 5ltr fully synthetic high performance oil FFS!!

I dont get why so many people are so intent on wasting their money puting super high performance oil such as mobil 1 into their bloody family car engine! THE OIL IS TOO THIN!!! Its designed for high performance applications, and no amount of wishful thinking will ever turn a mass produced V6 designed for family cars into a high performance engine unless you do significant mods! Magnatec is perfectly fine. Its what 9/10 Mitsubishi dealerships use.

To actually help danthevrxman rather then just taking the opportunity to bag magnatec, mitsubishi dealers use catrol magnatec to service magnas, 10W-40 which is the perfect viscosity for a magna (0W-30 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to thin for a magna engine, your doing more harm then good with that high performance stuff!)

Unless your going to turbocharge your magna, save 30 buks an oil change and go for magnatec, or penrite HPR10.. <-- thats some good sh!t!!!

umm dude for a start, your ill-informed. 1) Magnatec is NOT semi-synthetic, its fully synthetic, 2) i dont think people are that stupid that they only use magnatec cos its got the word magna in it :nuts: 3) wtf difference does it make whos advertising it? it makes no difference to the product it just helps them make sales and 4) ITS A BLOODY FAMILY CAR ENGINE! it doesnt need $60 per 5ltr fully synthetic high performance oil FFS!!

I dont get why so many people are so intent on wasting their money puting super high performance oil such as mobil 1 into their bloody family car engine! THE OIL IS TOO THIN!!! Its designed for high performance applications, and no amount of wishful thinking will ever turn a mass produced V6 designed for family cars into a high performance engine unless you do significant mods! Magnatec is perfectly fine. Its what 9/10 Mitsubishi dealerships use.

To actually help danthevrxman rather then just taking the opportunity to bag magnatec, mitsubishi dealers use catrol magnatec to service magnas, 10W-40 which is the perfect viscosity for a magna (0W-30 is waaaaaaaaaaaaaay to thin for a magna engine, your doing more harm then good with that high performance stuff!)

Unless your going to turbocharge your magna, save 30 buks an oil change and go for magnatec, or penrite HPR10.. <-- thats some good sh!t!!!


**RJL25**
- STATUS = MORON
- Attempt to add something intelligent to this discussion = FAILED
you are clearly mechanically retarded, your first statement is a dead giveway...Magnatec is NOT full synthetic it IS a semi-synthetic (mineral based with some fancy additives) get your facts straight little boy...
light weight synthetic oil's 0W-40 or 5W-50 etc is NOT way to thin in fact it is perfect for winter use and provides many advantages ie more power, better fuel economy, can last about 3xlonger than mineral based etc(it is too thin & a waste of money for an old school Astron 2.6 but is perfect for 6g7#)...
mate u just can't afford a good synthetic (i know mummy/wifey probably wouldn't let you try to change the oil in her wagon thing anyway) and you dont have a clue about engines or what tolerances, design spec's etc they are built to...
i see u on these forums picking apart people's post's giving people dumb, moronic, and useless advice and generally trying to act like u know something when in fact u are just a spammer who uses google to try to look knowledgeable... :nuts:
There's nothing wrong with Magnatec for 95% of people, especially the "typical conservative magna driver" :badgrin: who's car is just transport from A to B and has a limited budget then it is fine. But those who think Magnatec has some magic pixie juice are wrong including most of the bogan Mitsubishi dealers who you love so much when they charge you $120 p/h for some crappy apprentice magnacrap oil change...

**RJL25**
- STATUS = MORON
- Attempt to add something intelligent to this discussion = FAILED
you are clearly mechanically retarded, your first statement is a dead giveway...Magnatec is NOT full synthetic it IS a semi-synthetic (mineral based with some fancy additives) get your facts straight little boy...
light weight synthetic oil's 0W-40 or 5W-50 etc is NOT way to thin in fact it is perfect for winter use and provides many advantages ie more power, better fuel economy, can last about 3xlonger than mineral based etc(it is too thin & a waste of money for an old school Astron 2.6 but is perfect for 6g7#)...
mate u just can't afford a good synthetic (i know mummy/wifey probably wouldn't let you try to change the oil in her wagon thing anyway) and you dont have a clue about engines or what tolerances, design spec's etc they are built to...
i see u on these forums picking apart people's post's giving people dumb, moronic, and useless advice and generally trying to act like u know something when in fact u are just a spammer who uses google to try to look knowledgeable... :nuts:
There's nothing wrong with Magnatec for 95% of people, especially the "typical conservative magna driver" :badgrin: who's car is just transport from A to B and has a limited budget then it is fine. But those who think Magnatec has some magic pixie juice are wrong including most of the bogan Mitsubishi dealers who you love so much when they charge you $120 p/h for some crappy apprentice magnacrap oil change...

i orignally wrote a very long and argumentitive post in response to this ^^ but have since decided against it. Im not going to respond to this kind of crap. You have a very strong opinion about me, frankly theres probably alot of people on this forum who share it. I dont really give a stuff so you can have that opinion all you like, just dont post it on the forums ay? This thread is suppose to be about what oil MMAL dealerships use, not about having a go at me. As such i am only going to reply to the relevant arguments you made, not the personal insults you sprayed at me.

Back to the oil thing. A 6G7# engine, no matter how you drive it, is not a high performance engine, and as such does not require high performance oil. Its as simple as that. MMAL dealerships use magnatec, thats also fact. Magnatec is perfectly fine oil to be using in magna's, and its thin enough to be idealy suited for winter use. Its probably too thin however for summer, at which time i personally use penrite HPR10 as it is more suited to hot conditions. All the above information i have not got from google for the record, but from 2 different MMAL dealerships, plus from the mechanic i have been going to for years. I trust their opinions more then yours green, so just back down bud, im just giving my opinion on the forums, something i am perfectly entitled to do. If you have any further problems with me of a personal nature, put it in a PM

Too Bloody Right RJL25. I started this thread wanting to know what oil they put in at mitsi's as i see no point putting in some $60 oil, then going to mitsi's in 7500 k's time only to get them to drain it and put in magnatec or whatever again.

Simple question just needed a simple answer.

Thanks for your replies, and i will probably end up draining it every 5000 k's

**RJL25**
- STATUS = MORON
- Attempt to add something intelligent to this discussion = FAILED
you are clearly mechanically retarded, your first statement is a dead giveway...Magnatec is NOT full synthetic it IS a semi-synthetic (mineral based with some fancy additives) get your facts straight little boy...
light weight synthetic oil's 0W-40 or 5W-50 etc is NOT way to thin in fact it is perfect for winter use and provides many advantages ie more power, better fuel economy, can last about 3xlonger than mineral based etc(it is too thin & a waste of money for an old school Astron 2.6 but is perfect for 6g7#)...
mate u just can't afford a good synthetic (i know mummy/wifey probably wouldn't let you try to change the oil in her wagon thing anyway) and you dont have a clue about engines or what tolerances, design spec's etc they are built to...
i see u on these forums picking apart people's post's giving people dumb, moronic, and useless advice and generally trying to act like u know something when in fact u are just a spammer who uses google to try to look knowledgeable...
There's nothing wrong with Magnatec for 95% of people, especially the "typical conservative magna driver" who's car is just transport from A to B and has a limited budget then it is fine. But those who think Magnatec has some magic pixie juice are wrong including most of the bogan Mitsubishi dealers who you love so much when they charge you $120 p/h for some crappy apprentice magnacrap oil change...

Dude that was definitely uncalled for, whilst lot of people might not like magnatec and choose other premium oils it is certainly not doing your engine any damage if changed regularly. Abusing people and what not is uncalled for. :nuts:

:badgrin: Hey,

We're everyday folk in a australian car forum, not schoolmasters with The Pome Entomological & Natural History Society so i think it's ok to call one another morons now and then.

Yes, I found them in google.

Be yourselves, peace.

It all depends on how you drive the car, and what you got done to it... Ive tried a few of the big name oils, and i found that penrite was the smoothest for my car, while my friends magna like the shell more... so try a few and see what your car feels more comfortable with. Took me almost 10 months to find the best one for my car 2moths per oil change... complete oil flush on every change.

But thats me... see what other people say

and i will probably end up draining it every 5000 k's

yep thats a good idea mate. I didnt see any point in taking my car in to some mechanic who will charge me a minimum $90 to change my oil for me when i can spend about $35 and do it myself on a sunday arvo. I change mine every 5000 and i use magnatec mostly, although as said during summer i look at using penrite HPR10 due to it being more suited to the hot conditions, that was recomended to me by my mechanic.

We're everyday folk in a australian car forum, not schoolmasters with The Pome Entomological & Natural History Society so i think it's ok to call one another morons now and then.

green did alot more then call me a moron, if he did no one would care cos i probably am a moron :P

the problem was that he strongly attacked me just cos i had a different opinion to him. It is unnecessary and un-called for when all that was being asked was what oil do MMAL dealerships use.

its funny that wen theres an oil thread guaranteed thered be a war to it :doubt:

its funny that wen theres an oil thread guaranteed thered be a war to it :doubt:

lol so true

Is it really full synth??? If so - why isn't it mentioned in the can? Unless I'm getting so blind on my old days I simply couldn't see that.....
For obvious reasons I DO NOT use MagnaTech any more, I use real synth Shell 5-40 (I think, in the shed, I couldn't be bothered to get up and check...)
But honestly - I thought cos of the name it was specifically designed for Magna donks. It really wasn't better dug, better barrelled most bs'd advertised oil??? I'm totally baffeld now!!



umm dude for a start, your ill-informed. 1) Magnatec is NOT semi-synthetic, its fully synthetic

Is it really full synth??? If so - why isn't it mentioned in the can? Unless I'm getting so blind on my old days I simply couldn't see that.....
For obvious reasons I DO NOT use MagnaTech any more, I use real synth Shell 5-40 (I think, in the shed, I couldn't be bothered to get up and check...)
But honestly - I thought cos of the name it was specifically designed for Magna donks. It really wasn't better dug, better barrelled most bs'd advertised oil??? I'm totally baffeld now!!

well i am still fairly sure that it is fully synthetic, but im open to the possibility that its not. But no its not specially designed for magna's... it was never advertised to be either. It was called MAGNEtec cos it was supposedly MAGNETIC

im pretty sure its not full synthetic

i can ascertain that magnatec is semi-synthetic. i have spoken to castrol ppl abt it and if you look at the price... $25-$30 for a bottle, it's too cheap to be fully-synthetic.

i agree with both dudes in the war of words. on the one hand, the low-reving magna engine is only a cheap and unsophisticated cast iron block that don't require fancy oils. on the other hand, it is true that with modern (90's onwards) engines, i don't think you can use too thin an oil. fully-synth oils, like green said, do give you the benefits of better fuel economy, performance and longer durability than semi-synth's. however, i strongly believe the economy and performance part is large negligible.

so at the end of the day, use a cheaper oil, change it more often. use a more expensive fully-synth oil, you get to keep it abit longer. adds up to be the same in the end :D

i can ascertain that magnatec is semi-synthetic. i have spoken to castrol ppl abt it and if you look at the price... $25-$30 for a bottle, it's too cheap to be fully-synthetic.

i agree with both dudes in the war of words. on the one hand, the low-reving magna engine is only a cheap and unsophisticated cast iron block that don't require fancy oils. on the other hand, it is true that with modern (90's onwards) engines, i don't think you can use too thin an oil. fully-synth oils, like green said, do give you the benefits of better fuel economy, performance and longer durability than semi-synth's. however, i strongly believe the economy and performance part is large negligible.

so at the end of the day, use a cheaper oil, change it more often. use a more expensive fully-synth oil, you get to keep it abit longer. adds up to be the same in the end :D

in theory it provides better performance, economy etc, but with a mass produced engine like the 6G7# with all of its production tolerances etc, the differences are completely negligable, its impossible to justify a 30 dollar aditional expense per oil change for a 1% performance and economy improvement, and thats if your lucky

http://www.penzoil.com.au/?method=lubematch.lubematch

Read the Castrol Magnatec spec sheet for yourselves.

open the 'doc' link at bottom of the page (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=8000009&contentId=6008598)

I have said this several times and will say it again, many many people who's car I service all have noticed improvement in the area of engine quietness and smoother running as well as lower oil consumption with Penrite.

ALL cars burn oil, the oil lubriactes the bores, a thin film is left. Moisture and other by products of combustion generally make up for the loss in newer cars.

With synthetic oil, it WILL NOT absorb anything, you will notice a drop in the oil level over time.

... complete oil flush on every change...

How do you do an engine flush?

And my 5c worth... I think people are kidding themselves who put $60-$70 oil into their family car. If they have a VR-4 or one of the other performance versions then they're kidding themselves if they don't.
One rule of thumb though (so I've been told by my mechanic) don't change from mineral to synthetic. The reason is that the molecules in a synthetic are smaller and therefore will not suit the tolerances in an engine that has been running a mineral oil. The result won't be a damaged engine, rather the seals will start leaking.

And to end my wee story @green... way out of line fella. A little criticism is OK, but yours was close to outright abuse. :rant:

Sorry, this is off topic, but @ green again, what is it with your sig'? As someone with several friends that are cops I think you blow!

Or, if it is some sort of dig that's supposed to be funny that I (as a Kiwi in NZ) won't get then I apologise in advance.

I have said this several times and will say it again, many many people who's car I service all have noticed improvement in the area of engine quietness and smoother running as well as lower oil consumption with Penrite.

ALL cars burn oil, the oil lubriactes the bores, a thin film is left. Moisture and other by products of combustion generally make up for the loss in newer cars.

With synthetic oil, it WILL NOT absorb anything, you will notice a drop in the oil level over time.

i have to agree.. my mechanic uses the penrite on my car.. its top sh!t!!


Sorry, this is off topic, but @ green again, what is it with your sig'? As someone with several friends that are cops I think you blow!

Or, if it is some sort of dig that's supposed to be funny that I (as a Kiwi in NZ) won't get then I apologise in advance.

nah its not an aussie only joke that a kiwi wouldnt get.. he's just "one of those people" unfortunately.. needs to pull his head in

fuchs to the lot of ya! [Fuchs = German Oil Company]

[Fuchs = German Oil Company]


Lucky you cleared that up. I thought you you were about to get flamed for bad language lol

Lucky you cleared that up. I thought you you were about to get flamed for bad language lol

Yeh, just my attempt at humour :gtfo:

I have said this several times and will say it again, many many people who's car I service all have noticed improvement in the area of engine quietness and smoother running as well as lower oil consumption with Penrite.

ALL cars burn oil, the oil lubriactes the bores, a thin film is left. Moisture and other by products of combustion generally make up for the loss in newer cars.

With synthetic oil, it WILL NOT absorb anything, you will notice a drop in the oil level over time.

do you know roughly how much oil is burnt off every 6 months? is it a negligible amount?

do you know roughly how much oil is burnt off every 6 months? is it a negligible amount?

i've known normal, mass produced family car engines to drink as much as 1letre of fully synthetic oil every 3 months... i wouldnt call that negligable

i've known normal, mass produced family car engines to drink as much as 1letre of fully synthetic oil every 3 months... i wouldnt call that negligable
:shock: I'm surprised thats normal. my 1994 mazda mx5 @ about 175k old doesn't lose any oil between changes & use grade 5W50. I do the oil change myself every 15k, & that's normally 6 months. & I also redline the engine at least twice a week.

:shock: I'm surprised thats normal. my 1994 mazda mx5 @ about 175k old doesn't lose any oil between changes & use grade 5W50. I do the oil change myself every 15k, & that's normally 6 months. & I also redline the engine at least twice a week.

due then start changing your oil every 5k!! if your redlining it freqently and your running oil that thin you have to keep the oil changes up!! especially an engine that old

due then start changing your oil every 5k!! if your redlining it freqently and your running oil that thin you have to keep the oil changes up!! especially an engine that oldwouldn't that be overdoing it? sure it's thin oil but I'm not losing any?

Re the comments regarding viscosity, the factory fill oil is a 5W-30!! :confused:

Sorry, this is off topic, but @ green again, what is it with your sig'? As someone with several friends that are cops I think you blow!

Or, if it is some sort of dig that's supposed to be funny that I (as a Kiwi in NZ) won't get then I apologise in advance.

Again off topic, however he is just someone with a small dick

can only get himself off my abusing people.....

With luck one of out police members will see this guy and give him some friendly advice

wouldn't that be overdoing it? sure it's thin oil but I'm not losing any?

most cars wont loose any oil even after 15000k's.. just because your engine hasnt consumed its own oil doesnt mean the oil isnt past its used by date. Oil only operates properly within a life of just 5000k's, after that its past its best and deteriorates. When you change your oil next time at 15000k's note the difference in colour and the difference in its "runnyness" between the 15000k old oil and the new oil and you will see what i mean