Has anyone installed Whiteline front and rear swaybars and the camber adjustment kit to their TR/KR/TS/KS sedan?

I want to know if I'll be able to do it myself and I'd like to hear comments on the resulting handling.

I really need some negative camber on the front because the outside edges of the tyres are nearly bald while the rest is about 50% or more.

Im going to get a full kit either from whiteline or and equivalent from my mate's dad's suspension joint. I don't know how easy they are to install yourself...maybe you should email whiteline? Give them a bit of crap saying you've done this and that etc ;)

i'm thinking of eventually getting just the rear swaybar (no lowering or aftermarket springs/shocks)... would that have much of an improvement with body roll when cornering?

Well I just bit the bullet and have ordered the parts so I'll tell you how it goes.
But I don't think I can be bothered putting on just the rear sway bar and testing it alone.

I installed a whiteline strut bar into my VRX...would never look back, very worth while investment....You made the right choice

Rear swaybar would help, but I think it'd be more beneficial to lower it first (if you havent already done so). A strut brace would be another good thing to get too.

I haven't touched the suspension so far. I'm not sure that lowering will achieve much performance wise because I don't want to lower it more than 25 mm or so. Now if you consider that the centre of mass is prob around 500 mm or more off the ground, you can see that the roll moment (torque) reduction is damn small (5%).
But the lowered springs are a bit stiffer aren't they? So the roll reduction will be a bit more than that, but then it's prob a good idea to upgrade the dampers (between 150 and $200 per corner) and the ride will be slightly worse. Keep in mind that I want to sell this car in the not so distant future and that the demand for modified Magnas is very small. The more stock it seems the better.

If you get adjustable shocks then that would be better.

If you wanna fork out the dosh for them then thats another story..lol

I'd lower it with some adjustable gas shocks, munroes or ac delco's if u dont want to spend the money on konis. I personally hate pedders and will never recommend anything of theirs, but others will (I wont argue about this issue anymore though).

Then I'd get a strut brace. You'll probably notice a huge difference right there with those mods. Then if you're still unhappy I'd put in the sway bar.

Posted twice by accident.

Manual or Blake can u ditch this post? THanks

what exactly does the strut brace do? Is it a big cost?

They're pretty cheap compared to the rest of the suspension..I think 200 bucks? Not 100% sure.

It's the bar you see go across the engine bay in some cars, it braces the strut towers and stops them flexing under accelleration and in steering. It also helps reduce torque steer.

Someone on here has a strut brace..can they post a pic of it for Kim?? Thanks!

ahh ok, i know the ones.

So,by stopping flex in the strut towers... what would that actually feel like in the car? Less roll in the front of the car? More grip on the road when cornering?

(Just trying to work out if its worth the extra money to get a strut brace as well as a rear sway bar)

Exactly right..more grip, less bodyroll in the front. More stable, and reduced torque steer, but by how much I dont know, because the strut towers flexing isnt the cause of torque steer so it wont stop it, it'll only reduce it.

I've gone through most of this with my TS....

Currently the car has 4 whitline springs (about 2' lower) rear swaybar kit front castor bushes and monroe GT gas dampers

The diffrence is massive.... WAYYYYY less understeery and you can get th back to come around with a little throttle lift-off. However with the new tyres (dunlop 901 gumballs) the front still seems a bit rolly poly so i have just ordered the whiteline heavy duty front swaybar and strut brace... about 380 delivered

Will let u guys know how it goes

Oh yeah i have camber bolts in the front too 8)

i was so close to purchasing a front a rear strut bar, but $$$ stopped me. I've driven my dads car (Eunos 30X) with and without a front strut bar, and its a big difference

Yes I have all the Whiteline parts fitted in my KS Verada Sedan except for the uprated front swaybar.

- Firstly installed urethane bushes for lower control arms which also allowed adjustable castor, and also urethane bushes on rear trailing arm. This made for a fairly harsher ride but steering became much more direct.

- Whiteline lowered springs with KONI red dampers, and also a rear swaybar. Totally transformed the car and made the rear end much more lively. Even with two people in the back if you lift off throttle hard in the wet the back will slide.

- Camber adjustment pins on the front with 1.0 degree negative dialed in further reduces understeer.

At this point I am hesitant on fitting the uprated front swaybar as the lively rear end is as close as I'll get to a RWD without forgoing this car ;).

Whiteline have been excellent and always offered good tech advice; their online store always delivers on time.

Did you find that you didn't have mounting points for the rear swaybar? I had to drill the holes and buy the bolts.
I also found that the long studs that connect the swaybar ends to the body weren't long enough. I could only fit one nut instead of two in the middle section.

I haven't had a chance to really try out the -1.5 deg front camber (I want to wear the inside of this set of tyres because the outside is pretty rooted) and rear swaybar, but I'll probably do that soon. I have only tried it out at maybe 80% effort on some smallish corners and it does feel better and tucks in more on throttle liftoff.

I haven't figured out yet whether the negative camber increases front end grip. The inside tyre screams more though :)

I was told by whiteline that the only items they had for my car (TR/TS) was:

Front Camber adjusting bolt kit KCA412
Front lower control arm caster adjusting kit V6 KCA338
Front Swaybar BMF14, and
Rear Swaybar BMR67

They dont apparently have Strut Braces..?

Shit!!!!

After spending many many hours and buying extra tools, I have finally taken the stock front swaybar off (it's 11.50 pm right now). I thought, "hmm this swaybar is quite hefty" so I got the whiteline one and weighed both. The stock one is heavier. So I'm wondering how a solid bar of the same shape can be lighter than a hollow one. I pull out the micrometer and measure the diameters. Stock: 22 mm, Whiteline 20 mm!

Arrrrrgh! Mitsubishi must have decided to chuck on 22 mm front swaybars on KR Veradas. The Whiteline one is supposed to replace a stock 20 mm hollow one.
Maybe this is a V6 thing?
Killbilly, could you please please turn the steering full lock and stick a micrometer onto the protruding section of your swaybar?
If this is also the case on V6 Magnas (instead of just Veradas), then Whiteline have made a little bit of an error because they didn't specify the engine, only TR/TS sedan or wagon.

Kim: BMR67 is for wagons. BMR44 is for sedans. I can't make out from your avatar whether your's is a sedan or wagon.

This is a quote I got from Whiteline...obviously prices can change without notice:

"Here is the quote for a pseudo works package :)

70086 WL h/duty coil spring - pair 145.45
75301 WL h/duty coil spring - pair 145.45
BMR44 Heavy duty swaybar-rr 156.36
BMF14 Heavy duty swaybar-fr 156.36
KCA338 Control arm-rear caster adj. 150.82
KCA412 Camber adj bolt kit-12mm 71.82
K80401107 Koni Shock Absorber 312.50
K86401306 Koni Shock Absorber 420.70

Value of goods: $1,559.46
Shipping: $59.00
Australian GST: $161.85
GRAND TOTAL: AU$1,780.31"

BTW, if people are wondering how a 22 mm dia tube is stiffer than a 20 mm bar, it's because the stiffnes varies with the radius^4.
Pretending that both are solid, the 22 mm one would be 1.464 times stiffer due to that measly extra 2 mm. A little square of material halfway towards the centre contributes 8 times less than the material on the outside.

G'day,

Mines a sedan. In an email from whitline a few days ago they said that those are the only things they make for my model Magna... hmm :?:

I just rang the nearest Mitsubishi dealer and it turns out that there are THREE different front swaybar diameters for TR and TS Magnas. 20, 22, and 23 mm. For KR Veradas (and prob KS), there are two: 22 and 23.

The parts person said it depends on your VIN number (obviously there must be other characteristics but I'm guessing that for them it's easiest to do by VIN).

So unless you have the crappy 20 mm bar, don't get the current Whiteline replacement bar.
I'm still prepared to use Whiteline products again as their service has been good so far and they're dealing with a non-performance car.

so the late 94 model 3.0 V6 TS Magna would have the 20mm bar?

You interested in selling your whitline front swaybar then? :)

I doubt it. I reckon that with the V6's increased mass creating a larger rolling moment/torque, the larger swaybars would have been used on the V6s.
If you have the larger swaybars then a solid 20 mm is actually a step down.

I'm awaiting Whiteline's reply at the moment. I should have one by the end of the day going by their previous prompt service (my rear swaybar didn't work out quite right either).