I've just bought my Magna TR 93 Sedan recently and the radio and front speakers are all stock and they're crap. There are no rear speakers or on the front door. I know nothing much about car audio and I went to strathfield to have a look. I quite cash strapped and am probably looking at a CD player w/ mp3 + 2 rear speakers + installation for under $200. You guys reckon that would be possible?

I was thinking of getting some decent speakers and having a cheap cd/mp3 Player/ tuner. If the max output for the speakers is say 180Watts and I couple those speakers with a Jensen - 4 X 50 Watt CD Tuner with MP3, will it be alright? There's this Boss Audio 450Watt 6X9 Inch 4 Way Speakers at strathfield for $49 and it seems really cheap for its power but I have absolutely no idea how they would sound. I'm definitely not looking for fantastic sound quality from just 200 bucks.

Pls advise. Thanks

Okai, a head unit, 2 speakers AND installation for 200 dollars is dreaming...

Install alone for 2 speakers and a headunit will cost about 100 bucks.
Do yourself a favour and do the install yourself, in the TR magna its EXTREMELY EASY, if you can turn a screwdriver then you can install your own head unit.
http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48023
Scroll down to the heading "Removing the Console & Headunit:" that will explain how to do it, its very easy.
All you gotta do is undo some screws and it all pops out, why pay someone 100 bucks to do this?

Then go out and buy yourself a pair of 6*9s, whatever you can afford, theres holes in your back parcel shelf where these will fit, just screw in. (you have to remove the carpet thats ontop of the parcel shelf of course and cut holes in the carpet so the 6*9 can come through.
Then youll have to run some wires. Find out how to do this (easy again) or get a friend to help) This will save you money of paying for installation.
Go to supercheap auto and youll be able to get everything you need there.

By the way, max output on speakers/amps etc are complete bull****, it doesnt tell you **** about its power handling, when buying a cheap system without amps dont even bother looking at power ratings of speakers if there being powered off the headunit. Just try and STAY away from boss and **** like that. Just go grab a pair of kenwood or pioneer ones for like 80 bucks.

Avoid Kenwood, Stick with Pioneer or JVC and if you have to go with BOSS, they are a little more reliable then Kenwood..( face it I have seen a tonne of people with Kenwood gear posting problems)


$150 for each part of your system is a more achievable goal.. the More you spend the better quality you will get...

Sure I could say go and get A Base model Kenwood indash CD player and Matching Dual Cone Kenwood speakers and Dual cone 6x9's but you would be wasting money and be majorrly dissapointed when the stuff breaks or the CD's get jammed in your CD player...

A Bare Basic System would be

Head unit : Entry Level Pioneer $170
Fronts : Panasonic 4-inch 2-ways $69
Rears : Jensen 2-way 6x9's $99
Installation for the Lot : $120...

.

The man said his strapped for cash and has 200 dollars, you suggested him stuff coming to a total of nearly 500?

The BEST option you have with 200 dollars is, 1 headunit (ofcourse) and 1 pair of speakers.
Best bet on speakers is buy a pair of 6*9s and bridge the headunits outputs and put them all towards the 6*9s. Unless of course your thinking of upgrading in the future with a sub.
If your looking for a sub in the future spend the money on some 2 way speakers for the front.

Just depends if you wanna be without bass for however long till your next upgrade.

But im sure 9/10 people here will tell you with the money youve got, just buy a headunit and a pair of 6*9.

If you can, spend 100 bucks on a pair of 6*9 and see if you can squeze out a bit more cash to buy a headunit.

Magnat what the hell is dual cone 6*9? Do you mean a 2 way 6*9? with just the mid driver and tweet?

If you do not know what a dual cone 6x9 is then you have not been in car audio as long as I have...
Dual Cone Speakers are a single coned Speaker with a inner cone attached to where the dust cap is in attempt to make higher Vibration which is an attemopt at boosting higher frequencies..very lame in deed.. they are prone to distortion and are not as clear as a 2-way but do make a better job at producing clearer highs then a normal woofer and are usually Dirt cheap..
...
Photo is attached for reference..


NEVER BRIDGE A HEADUNITS OUTPUTS !!!!!!!!!! they are not bridgeable and will result in overheating and premature failure..

I agree with getting just a headunit and a set of 6-be-9s.. good value for money.

Dont get strathfield to install your headunit.. they charge $88 and you cna do it yourself in 20 minutes. Plenty of guides online and not very hard even with NO experience. Just follow the guides :)

Get a set of -brandname- 6x9s.. dont get Boss, dont get any of strathfields specials. If you can't afford at least a basic set of Pioneers or another reputable brand name, save your money for later.. otherwise you will regret it.

All those cheapo brands at strathfield are sold for profit, and are basically crap unless you're an old man or dont give a flying F about car audio and just wanna listen to your talk-back radio.

Best bet is go for an entry level Pioneer, Panasonic, Sony, or Kenwood headunit, and a basic set of 2-way 6x9s from any reputable brand name. Get the store to install the 6x9s and do the headunit yourself. For not much over $200 you could do this.

Brands to Avoid at all costs : Avalanche,Sound Force,and Zues
( I lump Kenwood in that category aswell)
Best Brands to stick to in the Budget Range

JVC, Jensen,Pioneer,Sony,Panasonic and Clarion..

Your right, ive only bee in car audio for about 6 months and i never stated that ive been in it longer then you.
If the dual cone 6*9s are **** then why did you recomened them? when a normal pair of 6*9 (bass/mid range/tweet) can be brought for his price range?

Also i dont know **** about headunits as ive never had one, ive got a 7inch touchscreen ive molded into my dash hooked up to a computer running the frodoplayer front end (tounch screen frendly software) so i can play my 5000 mp3s and vides/dvd etc etc (no headunit in sight in my car)... so sorry bout the bridging headunit bit.

So anyways, where here to help syn... bottom line, with the price range you have, a headunit and 6*9s.
Try to buy stuff at jb hifi because supercheap auto is really really realllyy crap stuff.

Avoid Kenwood, Stick with Pioneer or JVC and if you have to go with BOSS, they are a little more reliable then Kenwood..( face it I have seen a tonne of people with Kenwood gear posting problems)


$150 for each part of your system is a more achievable goal.. the More you spend the better quality you will get...

Sure I could say go and get A Base model Kenwood indash CD player and Matching Dual Cone Kenwood speakers and Dual cone 6x9's but you would be wasting money and be majorrly dissapointed when the stuff breaks or the CD's get jammed in your CD player...

A Bare Basic System would be

Head unit : Entry Level Pioneer $170
Fronts : Panasonic 4-inch 2-ways $69
Rears : Jensen 2-way 6x9's $99
Installation for the Lot : $120...

.


When you mentioned "Fronts : Panasonic 4-inch 2-ways $69" does that mean replacing the tweeters on the dash or putting in new speakers on the front doors?

The man said his strapped for cash and has 200 dollars, you suggested him stuff coming to a total of nearly 500?

The BEST option you have with 200 dollars is, 1 headunit (ofcourse) and 1 pair of speakers.
Best bet on speakers is buy a pair of 6*9s and bridge the headunits outputs and put them all towards the 6*9s. Unless of course your thinking of upgrading in the future with a sub.
If your looking for a sub in the future spend the money on some 2 way speakers for the front.

Just depends if you wanna be without bass for however long till your next upgrade.

But im sure 9/10 people here will tell you with the money youve got, just buy a headunit and a pair of 6*9.

If you can, spend 100 bucks on a pair of 6*9 and see if you can squeze out a bit more cash to buy a headunit.

Magnat what the hell is dual cone 6*9? Do you mean a 2 way 6*9? with just the mid driver and tweet?


Sorry I'm a real noob at such stuff. you mentioned "bridge the headunits outputs and put them all towards the 6*9s." How does that work man? Is it just some wiring stuff?

So you guys reckon a good 6*9 would be the best bet? am i right to say the 6*9 would definitely be better than a 6" or 5" simply because they are smaller? lol

6x9's will give you a better sound for the money, they have a larger cone area, better for bass and most have a Tweeter which is good for the highs, 6inch and 5 inchers all play there part in a Stereo system, but on your Budget 6x9's are the Single speaker instant improvement ..

As your Budget increases then you can look at getting better front speakers but as your budget is tight 6x9's will be the best way for you to go..

DO NOT BRIDGE HEAD UNIT OUT PUTS you will fry the headunit in a very short space of time..

Buy a low end CD player, connect this up by using your existing front speakers, replace your rears with 6x9's so you connect the front channels to your Existing stock speakers and the rear channels to your new 6x9's .. Do not Bridge the head unit at all.

The system I have outlined for you means you would replace the Speakers in your dash which are not Tweeters, they are a 3 inch Woofer, but since there is not many 3 inch woofers you can get a 4 inch to fit in its place,

6x9's will give you a better sound for the money, they have a larger cone area, better for bass and most have a Tweeter which is good for the highs, 6inch and 5 inchers all play there part in a Stereo system, but on your Budget 6x9's are the Single speaker instant improvement ..

As your Budget increases then you can look at getting better front speakers but as your budget is tight 6x9's will be the best way for you to go..

DO NOT BRIDGE HEAD UNIT OUT PUTS you will fry the headunit in a very short space of time..

Buy a low end CD player, connect this up by using your existing front speakers, replace your rears with 6x9's so you connect the front channels to your Existing stock speakers and the rear channels to your new 6x9's .. Do not Bridge the head unit at all.

The system I have outlined for you means you would replace the Speakers in your dash which are not Tweeters, they are a 3 inch Woofer, but since there is not many 3 inch woofers you can get a 4 inch to fit in its place,

hmm... seems like a good proposal.. I'll probably have to up my budget alittle. With the woofers in the dash, would they possibly causing vibrations/noise in my dash itself? My dash sometimes produces sounds as if the screws are all lose.

if they are making sounds like there are screws loose then that is probably the cause or they are blown...

hmm..okay.. wat a stupid question from me.. LOL... anyways.. a 6*9 will definitely have better bass than the 6" round one. Would the 6" be good enough for the bass? or it produces nothing much? I'm gonna be shopping around and will post the models of the Head Unit and speakers up here after i found them and will get comments from you guys. thanks

6 inch are good, but in your Budget it would be better getting 6x9's

Sure look around, write down model numbers and post them up, then we can help you on your selection..
:D

Depends what bass you want, a 6x9 wont be as good quality as a 6" of the same series. But a 6x9 can handle more power. Given that you only have a headunit anyway it doesnt make much difference.

I'd put more money into your fronts where you'll hear them.

I dont run rears at all...

Do you plan on getting a sub?

Tim he is after a street setup, not SQ so 6x9's will be his cheapest path,as for not being the same quality, the build quality is often better in the 6x9 then the 6 inch in the price bracket he is looking at...

Erm... How do you know what he's after? If he wants a sub eventually then I would say upgrade ur fronts first. and dont worry about upgrading rears

If you want something that gets loud and doesnt give any sub bass go the 6x9's.

And what is a street setup?

My setup is a street setup. I compete in the street class :nuts:

PUT THE MONEY WHERE IT WILL GET THE MOST AUDIBLE RESULTS = FRONT SPEAKERS

Tim, read his post , he has very little budget to do this with..

Sorry I should not have said Street System I should have said everyday System...

Anyway, back to my question... Do you plan on getting a sub eventually Syn?

Or will this be the only upgrades you want to make to ur system?

Anyway, back to my question... Do you plan on getting a sub eventually Syn?

Or will this be the only upgrades you want to make to ur system?

I'll probably will not get a sub. not in the future. When u mentioned spending money on the speakers in the front, does that mean on the front door?

http://www.strathfield.com/ViewProduct.asp?ProdID=704

Will these speakers fit on the dash? or it just isnt deep enough? I had a look around and as magnat has suggested, finding a 4" woofer for the dash but I couldnt find woofers of that size. I was wondering probably you were meaning 4" inch speakers like the one in that website above?

Anyways, 1 more question. How good is the stock Head Unit anyway? My stock speakers on the dash are pretty much busted so i wouldnt know. I was thinking of installing the rear 6*9 first and connect that to the stock Head Unit and isolating the dash speakers. And I will shop around for the head unit. You guys reckon that would sound like crap?

New headunit is pretty important. You can get them fairly cheap with mp3 etc.

It wont sound crap, will actually be a huge improvement over what you have, I was just trying to suss out exactly what your budget is.

I'd look into the new headunit first and see how that runs ur current speakers then work from there. You will notice a big difference with the added power, even into stock speakers

Peace

Tim

The Stock Head iunit is Evil..
Replace it first..
Now those Boss Speakers you have Chosen may not fit as you have a shallow mounitng position..
I have fitted Sony Xplod 4 inch Speakers into the Dash of a TR wagon ( 4 inch Woofer is the Big cone part of a 4 inch speaker,sorry for not clearing that up)

Best Idea is to replace the deck, then get the 6x9's then the front speakers...


http://www.strathfield.com/ViewProduct.asp?ProdID=923 Should fit in the dash


http://www.strathfield.com/ViewProduct.asp?ProdID=1352 Great Replacement Deck on your Budget

The Stock Head iunit is Evil..
Replace it first..
Now those Boss Speakers you have Chosen may not fit as you have a shallow mounitng position..
I have fitted Sony Xplod 4 inch Speakers into the Dash of a TR wagon ( 4 inch Woofer is the Big cone part of a 4 inch speaker,sorry for not clearing that up)

Best Idea is to replace the deck, then get the 6x9's then the front speakers...


http://www.strathfield.com/ViewProduct.asp?ProdID=923 Should fit in the dash


http://www.strathfield.com/ViewProduct.asp?ProdID=1352 Great Replacement Deck on your Budget

the sony 4" looks really wicked. lol. All along i was looking at Head Units with mp3. I guess I'll have to stick with a normal CD player (cd-rw/cd-r compatible) due to budget constraints. I've read from somewhere that some plastics have to be cut to install those 4" in the dash. Are they extremely difficult to cut?

Not Plastic, but the Metal Tabs on the 4 inch Speakers themselves I believe Two of them have to be cut that are diagnally across from each other..

How do i do the wiring for the rear speakers? Does the wires go on the floor or by the sides or what?

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48023

this website tells alot but it doesnt have the wiring to the rear speakers.

The only way is to do the installation yourself.

You can grab a couple of sony 220watt 6X9" for around 80 bucks at JB. Or do the 6" you should be able to get something reasonable for around 50 bucks.

You can also get a sony headunit for around $150 i believe. I've seen it on sale around the place.

The only way is to do the installation yourself.

You can grab a couple of sony 220watt 6X9" for around 80 bucks at JB. Or do the 6" you should be able to get something reasonable for around 50 bucks.

You can also get a sony headunit for around $150 i believe. I've seen it on sale around the place.

okay.. thats cool. there isn't any JB here.. so i'll probably drop by melbourne to have a look. If i do the wiring myself, do you guys usually run the wires under the carpet all the way to the rear speakers?

NEVER BRIDGE A HEADUNITS OUTPUTS !!!!!!!!!! they are not bridgeable and will result in overheating and premature failure..

Quoted for truth. I was about to say it too.

okay.. thats cool. there isn't any JB here.. so i'll probably drop by melbourne to have a look. If i do the wiring myself, do you guys usually run the wires under the carpet all the way to the rear speakers?

Yeah you can do that if you want but you might need to remove the seats so you can get them under the carpet.

About the wiring, it would say on the speaker terminals wich is + and -. If it doesnt, the thick terminal is the + and the thin one is -.

The actually stereo should be color coded and would have a booklet that shows you exactly what color is for what.

Just remember when installing the stereo, to disconnect the battery (just negative termial would do) and if you need to do any cutting and joining, make sure you insulate the wires becuse if the main power wires hits any metal part in the car, it can damage your electronics in the car.

hey guys. I found a Sony CDX-CA590X on ebay. Its a second hand model. I reckon its good value for 100 bucks. these players will defenitely fit in my car right? :)

All headunits are either single DIN or Double DIN.
It's a standard size, so u shouldnt have any probs

hey guys,
i have just bought a ts magna and am in the proces of replacing the stock stereo. will the xplode 4" 2 ways recommended for the tr fit in a ts? also i have wired up my head unitand have it working but the instrument panel lights have stopped working. i'm pretty sure this is because of incorrect wiring of the green/white wire which i wasnt positive about what to do with. any help much appreciated.

chris

yes theres a lead there for illumination, you have connected this up wrong.

so if my head unit has no illumination wire, what do i do with this green/white wire?

chris

tape the end off... dont connect it to anything.

This wire is active when ur lights turn on, so ur headunit knows to dim itself.

Not having this here wont cause you any probs

Peace

Tim

thanks ill go do that now

Avoid Kenwood, Stick with Pioneer or JVC and if you have to go with BOSS, they are a little more reliable then Kenwood..( face it I have seen a tonne of people with Kenwood gear posting problems)



STAY AWAY FROM KENWOOD HEADUNITS......they are major dodgy...for cheap i belive pioneer is the best

STAY AWAY FROM KENWOOD HEADUNITS......they are major dodgy...for cheap i belive pioneer is the best


At least there is some one else who knows car audio...here am I thinking I was 1 of Two known members who hate their headunits

Kenwood Head units are dodgy, no better then a Boss or Fusion Head deck...

okay guys, for the 6*9. 2 way or 3 way? most models are 3 ways or 4 ways. 2 ways are harder to find.

2-way is best .. There is less to interfere with the woofers Midbass..

okay guys, for the 6*9. 2 way or 3 way? most models are 3 ways or 4 ways. 2 ways are harder to find.
2, 3 or 4 way is not the deciding factor. Look/listen.

generally the more you pay the better you'll get. Have a listen to them only way to know for sure

They use basic crossover components in them.

I just bought a pioneer basic cd player at JB hifi for $138 and JVC 6*9 3-way Speakers for $80 bucks. I'll post the speakers and CD player model player later. I'll try to fix up the head unit and the speakers myself and work from there and decide whether to get the front speakers.

Sounds good, were they the Blue, Gold or Maroon colored cones on them..

The Bklue Coned are mad
The Golds Sound Great
The Maroons sound more suited to jazz, not much Bass to them...

I just bought a pioneer basic cd player at JB hifi for $138 and JVC 6*9 3-way Speakers for $80 bucks. I'll post the speakers and CD player model player later. I'll try to fix up the head unit and the speakers myself and work from there and decide whether to get the front speakers.

Good **** mate. JB generally have some of the best prices in the biz.

Sounds good, were they the Blue, Gold or Maroon colored cones on them..

The Bklue Coned are mad
The Golds Sound Great
The Maroons sound more suited to jazz, not much Bass to them...

I've got the blue cone ones. the model number is CS-V6934 280W max. As for the head unit, its the basic CD player Pioneer DEH-1750. I basically just keep reducing the price and that salesperson was a nice guy. Did a brillant price for those two.

Anyways, now to the installation bit. How do i start? I heard I have to diconnect the car battery first. Any other precautions to take? or advice to make sure I don't screw up the electrics of the car? I also bought some wiring crap for mitsubishi just to make my life easier for the headunit wiring.

Nice Choice.. They go hard for the money..

Yes Disconnect the Battery if you are wiring up the head unit.

what Mitsubishi Wiring Crap did you get ???

Male spade connectors will be needed to connect the your new speakers to factory speaker Terminals.

Installing a new head unit is easier then installing new speakers, all takes time and practice...

Insulate all connections to prevent them from Earthing out..

Some info for 3rd gens (removing centre console) etc
clicky (http://www.wermspowke.net/wiki/index.php/Interior)

Nice Choice.. They go hard for the money..

Yes Disconnect the Battery if you are wiring up the head unit.

what Mitsubishi Wiring Crap did you get ???

Male spade connectors will be needed to connect the your new speakers to factory speaker Terminals.

Installing a new head unit is easier then installing new speakers, all takes time and practice...

Insulate all connections to prevent them from Earthing out..

I'm sorry but what do you mean by insulating them? just taping them up or something?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/ngsinyong/P1060006.jpg

this is the crap i got. 8 bucks. are they of any help at all? If not i'll have to refund them.

Nice Choice.. They go hard for the money..

Yes Disconnect the Battery if you are wiring up the head unit.

what Mitsubishi Wiring Crap did you get ???

Male spade connectors will be needed to connect the your new speakers to factory speaker Terminals.

Installing a new head unit is easier then installing new speakers, all takes time and practice...
Insulate all connections to prevent them from Earthing out..

i found installing speakers WAY easier then installing a HU. all those *** wires *shudder*
for me speakers were just bang bang in.

but i guess in another respects i wasnt installing a custom system or anything.

and yes it does come with practice.

i didnt disconnect battery, shorted out a fuse, and made the immobilser alarm itself:S.

i learnt my lesson :P

Syn
those wiring things you bought may be helpful if you plan on putting the stock stereo back in later on (eg when you go to sell the car). but otherwise are not needed.

DO NOT JUST TAPE THE WIRES!!! this is a great pathway to electrical fires which car burn down your car. get yourself some insulated terminals from a hardware store and use them (you will also need a crimping tool if you dont have one). if you dont plan on replacing your head unit then i would use butt connectors as there is even less chance of them pulling free and causing a short.

butt connectors (http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Terminal_Blocks_-a-_Wiring_Solutions/Wire_End_Connectors/Butt_-a-_End_Connectors/BM-00160)

crimping tool (http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Terminal_Blocks_-a-_Wiring_Solutions/Wire_End_Connectors/Crimping_Tools/BM-537)

ignore prices on this site i just put up the links so you know what to look for. terminals are a few bucks for a pack (you will only need 1 pack). and you should be able to borrow a crimping tool of a friend. if not you should be able to get a cheap one for under $50.

chris

Even better, solder and heatshrink

also i took out one of my stock front speakers and measured it. mounting depth is 25mm. i cant find anything even close. can anyone help

chris

You can go much further than that dude, I've fitted 76mm in there, just scrapes against the window, but is unnoticeable.

In 9 Years of car audio I have never had any shorts or fires from using Tape... I use Duct tape not material tape... Electrical tape is not sticky enough..
I have also done this with High Current and High heat applications with no problem..
( I usually use Heat shrink but it is hard to use in really tight spots)
Connecters are secure enouigh.. I would never use a soldering Iron on the inside of the dash too much of a risk to melt dash platic or have solder drip onto things you don't want it too.. It also makes it hard to replace a deck if it has been soldered..

Syn
those wiring things you bought may be helpful if you plan on putting the stock stereo back in later on (eg when you go to sell the car). but otherwise are not needed.

DO NOT JUST TAPE THE WIRES!!! this is a great pathway to electrical fires which car burn down your car. get yourself some insulated terminals from a hardware store and use them (you will also need a crimping tool if you dont have one). if you dont plan on replacing your head unit then i would use butt connectors as there is even less chance of them pulling free and causing a short.

butt connectors (http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Terminal_Blocks_-a-_Wiring_Solutions/Wire_End_Connectors/Butt_-a-_End_Connectors/BM-00160)

crimping tool (http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Terminal_Blocks_-a-_Wiring_Solutions/Wire_End_Connectors/Crimping_Tools/BM-537)

ignore prices on this site i just put up the links so you know what to look for. terminals are a few bucks for a pack (you will only need 1 pack). and you should be able to borrow a crimping tool of a friend. if not you should be able to get a cheap one for under $50.

chris

thanks! those were helpful. Yes, I will be putting the stock head unit back when i sell the car in future. I'll get some insulation to be on the safe side.

You can go much further than that dude, I've fitted 76mm in there, just scrapes against the window, but is unnoticeable

how did you do that.i have a set with 45mm mounting depth and there is about a 15-20mm gap between the screw holes in the speaker and the screw holes in the mount when the speaker is resting on the tray below. there is no way i could get the grills back on even if i used some spacers or washers to fill this gap. is there a way to remove the tray beneath?

chris

how did you do that.i have a set with 45mm mounting depth and there is about a 15-20mm gap between the screw holes in the speaker and the screw holes in the mount when the speaker is resting on the tray below. there is no way i could get the grills back on even if i used some spacers or washers to fill this gap. is there a way to remove the tray beneath?

chris

If u read the pervious posts, this is what they suggested I do. cut the 2 tabs on the speakers. I haven't tried that cos I have not bought my front speakers. These speakers shld fit in as posted by magnat. It has 44mm mounting depth.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/ngsinyong/XSGF1021copy.jpg

Do let me know if that works. Cheers.

http://users.tpg.com.au/ceedees/diagram1.JPG
as you can see my problem is not with the corner tabs. the speaker bottoms out way before they come even close to touching anything. (sorry for the rushed diagram)

chris

http://users.tpg.com.au/ceedees/diagram1.JPG
as you can see my problem is not with the corner tabs. the speaker bottoms out way before they come even close to touching anything. (sorry for the rushed diagram)

chris


oh... that dun sound good.. I read from previous posts that u have to cut the plastics underneath the speaker. I wouldn't know how to do it. I think its alot of work. looks like i gotta reconsider putting in speakers on the dash.

yeah you're right that doesnt sound fun. i'll have to investigate further.

chris

As I said, I have installed the Sony Speakers into the Dash of TR's before and we had no problems placing the stock cover back on..

mine is a TS and they definately wont fit without mods

Speakers on the dash is a waste of time. Look to get some 6" splits or coaxials into the doors.

At least then u will get some midbass...

oi timmy, how you think a set of extra tweets (different brand from the ones i already got) will sound in my car?

I already got the JL VR600-CSi set, so what about Hertz Hi-Energy tweets wacked in?

yeah but after having 2 cars (with semidecent stereos) stolen i want to leave this one looking as stock as possible so as not to attract any theives.

chris

They would go nicely, but u dont want them running as loud as ur main sets, otherwise they become too overpowering. Saying that the tweets are the worst part of the hsk package... Too bright & too harsh, but for ambient tweeters this could be a benefit as they wont be getting that much power... One way to find out...

Look for a nice soft dome... If you already have the hertz hi energy then thats fine, but otherwise you can get replacements from JB for $60 - $100. I used to use a pair of their Cadence tweets which were ok (just as ambients). they also sell pioneer.

Otherwise depends how much you want to spend really.


Peace

Tim

yeah but after having 2 cars (with semidecent stereos) stolen i want to leave this one looking as stock as possible so as not to attract any theives.

chris

hm.. are CD players and speaker thefts so common? The detachable face in CD Player is standard nowadays for security reasons but can they really swoop the car stereo in a while? I reckon its gonna take hours.

keep it hidden and they'll never know... 6x9's are a dead giveaway...

they aint getting mine...

Steal me stickers are just asking for it as well...

all my mates who have had stolen stezzas had steal me stickers.

Choosing when and where to crank it is also important. And when/where to pop the boot. :shock:

A killer alarm helps, but if someone wants it they'll get it... prevention is the best cure i say

Peace

Tim

keep it hidden and they'll never know... 6x9's are a dead giveaway...

they aint getting mine...

Steal me stickers are just asking for it as well...

all my mates who have had stolen stezzas had steal me stickers.

Choosing when and where to crank it is also important. And when/where to pop the boot. :shock:

A killer alarm helps, but if someone wants it they'll get it... prevention is the best cure i say

Peace

Tim

u're scaring me. haha.. I've just got some cheapass 6*9s so i guess they probably wun fancy that. and i havent got alarm as well. When u said steal me stickers it means the brand stickers? lol

Nar as long as u persevere with it, you wont have any problems. Take ur face off all the time...

This is the biggest deterent.

If they cant see anything there at a glance that they can use, its not worth breaking into.

yerr Pioneer, Alpine etc....

neather of mine had the detatchable face on the stereo. but the first one was still in the car, tucked underneath the passenger seat. and i had no stickers. my problem was definately playing it to loud near where i park. and parking in the same place everyday.

chris

When you have no choice but to mount spekaers in High Visibility spots Here are a Few Helpful hints.

1. I had to do an Install in a Space Cab Rodeo and the Owner wanted 6x9's and a Sub,,
So I built the Sub Box and 6x9 enclosures and then Covered the 6x9 Boxes with Cut outs from Tissue Boxes and stuck them on the sides...from the outside they just looked like Empty Tissue boxes nothing out of the Ordinary, to make them a little more realistic I actually Stuck a tissue to the Front of them..
For his sub, we Built it out of Plain Pineboard, Turned the sub around so you could not see the Cone and painted it that Tool box Red..placed a Handle on top and detaled it exactly like a Tool box complete with lock.
End Result.. In your Face but out of mind..

2. For a Friends VR SS Commodore.. First stop was to Strathfield for some Cheapo Speakers in the same size as the ones we intended on Installing..
The second step was to get the Eclipse Speakers he really wanted..We placed the Eclipse speakers underneath the Cheapo Covers and installed them... End Result .... Its Boss who the hell wants to steal that ...

3. Religiously remove your Face plate and take it with you..

4. If you have spent alot on your Car audio gear , then a $200 alarm is a wise deterent for wannabe theives , it is true however, if they want it they will get it..

5.Don't Cruise Strips that are too close to your home or work.. This helps reduce the chance of your Car or gear being recognised and knocked off while you are not there...

6.At all times use stock locations and stock Grills, Out of site is out of mind... Steath is the key to keeping your gear...

7. Shopping Lists on your Fenders or Boot or Windscreen is an invite for a wannabe Thief, Why advertise ??

Look for a nice soft dome... If you already have the hertz hi energy then thats fine, but otherwise you can get replacements from JB for $60 - $100. I used to use a pair of their Cadence tweets which were ok (just as ambients). they also sell pioneer.

Otherwise depends how much you want to spend really.


Peace

Tim

I'm still running the JL Audio tweets, im just thinking how an extra pair of tweets will sound in terms of SQ in the cabin...or i could just be an idiot and put them in the boot..hmmm

k, if you want to go a proper ambient tweeter setup it is best to be able to highpass these at 10 khz. This way it will not separate too much from the main tweets, but actually lift the edges of the stage up. Stops the rainbow effect.
It is also important to be able to control the volume of these as you only want 10-20% of the >10khz volume going into these tweets compared to ur main tweets.

So generally its best to have a separate 2 channel amp to run ambients...

I know thats exxy. Theres no harm in trying them out though without an amp if you can find another way to wire them up.

Thats wat car audio's all about, testing different things till ur happy... Or broke.. ;)

Peace

Tim

Heh, thanks Tim, appreciate it mate.

hey guys, I've wired up my head unit. took me almost 4 hours. The wiring plug i bought turned out to be very useful! I just have to connect the wires from the head unit to the plug with the butt connectors and just plug it in. Haven got time yet to fix my 6*9s in.

Anyways, i was just wondering.. the 6*9 holes in the rear looked strange to me as they are going perpendicular to the windscreen instead of horizontal (which seems more logical). I've seen many cars and they go horizontal.

Another question guys. If i wire up the wires to the front speakers but there are no front speakers, is that alright? I just wanna plug my front speakers in when i get them. saves me the trouble of tearing up the console again.

Yeah the 6x9 holes are weird... but its just what ur used to. Really defeats the purpose of 6x9s which are there to get the most area out of ur parcel shelf... meh.

Anyway it is fine to have wires sitting loose, just make sure they dont short against each other or the chassis. Will cause headunit problems if they do.

Just tape the ends off.

Peace

Tim

some more noob questions..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/ngsinyong/P1060009.jpg

1. The circle in green.. that smaller head connector. doesn't seem to fit any of the heads in the console area. Does it matter?

2. The circle in cyan... ignore it. sorry. haha. it justs says power antenna, which i dun have.

3. The circle in yellow. System Remote Control. Is it to connect to a controller on the steering or something(if u have one)?

I just basically followed the colours of the wires and connect them. By the way, the earth wire i just stuck it to the metal parts beneath the console.. where the floors of the car is

hey guys. pls help. its not working.. the Head unit is running but no power seems to be going into the speakers. I think its caused by the plug (green circle). What do u guys think? any ideas?

The wiring Harness you have spare is for the speakers..
I have a feeling you bought the Wrong Wiring Harness..
The one you need has but one connector with all the wires coming off it, not two seperate ones as you have displayed there..
The Yellow wire is for the Power antenna, not needed if you do not have one..
The Blue Wire is Remote Turn on, it is the signal wire used to turn on amplifiers....


This would explain why your Head unit works and your speakers do not.... OOPS just forgot you have a 2nd Gen...

I checked the Aerpro site, and it is listing it as the same Harness for 2nd as the 3rd's
http://www.aerpro.com/vrg.php

The wiring Harness you have spare is for the speakers..
I have a feeling you bought the Wrong Wiring Harness..
The one you need has but one connector with all the wires coming off it, not two seperate ones as you have displayed there..
The Yellow wire is for the Power antenna, not needed if you do not have one..
The Blue Wire is Remote Turn on, it is the signal wire used to turn on amplifiers....


This would explain why your Head unit works and your speakers do not.... OOPS just forgot you have a 2nd Gen...

I checked the Aerpro site, and it is listing it as the same Harness for 2nd as the 3rd's
http://www.aerpro.com/vrg.php

yeah. i think u're spot on there... i need the 11 pin plug.hope they they will change it for me as the wires have been cut

You could try but I doubt it..
Just buy the Proper harness.. They should only cost $9.95 or something like that ..

wired up 1 of my speakers. took me damn long as the screw holes on the metal deck were too small. I used the clips provided and the screw went through but apparently those screws are too short! I had to enlarge the screw hole using some pliers and use the other set of screws which are longer.

din really do a clean job as it is my first time. just waiting for the wiring harness from jb hifi and hopefully i'm done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v139/ngsinyong/P1060010.jpg
Photo without the grille

looks good..

looks good. did you cut the carpet in place or remove it? i was gonna try to cut mine in place but wasnt sure as to how dodgy it would turn out.

chris

try and trim the carpet back an inch or so before fitting so the rim of the surround just covers the edges. I had the same probs with the kicker 6x9 when i had to make up custom pods; just so you don't see those tacky edges of carpet.

Ya know whatta i mean?

so you're saying to make the holes in the carpet bigger than the holes in the metal shelf?

try and trim the carpet back an inch or so before fitting so the rim of the surround just covers the edges. I had the same probs with the kicker 6x9 when i had to make up custom pods; just so you don't see those tacky edges of carpet.

Ya know whatta i mean?

sigh... thats was i dint do. It looks untidy now. But i havent got time to take it out again.

Anyways, the oem wiring for the rear speakers... the left side one is of the correct colours. grey and grey with stripes. whereas the right side is Green and green with red. Which one is the positive? Thanks

http://users.tpg.com.au/ceedees/diagram1.JPG
as you can see my problem is not with the corner tabs. the speaker bottoms out way before they come even close to touching anything. (sorry for the rushed diagram)

chris

have u fixed the speakers in eventually?

yeah i cut the plastic out. i took a kacksaw blade and bent it into an L shape to get down into the hole. mucho time and swearing required.

chris

yeah i cut the plastic out. i took a kacksaw blade and bent it into an L shape to get down into the hole. mucho time and swearing required.

chris

lol. its ain't an easy job. the plastic is pretty tough.
how do they sound? is it worth the effort? haha. my frens and previous posts all advised me to mount some larger speakers on the door instead.

they sound better but not great. only reason im not chopping the doors is coz i have to leave it parked in dodgy spots for long periods and dont want to get it stolen.

chris

thanks guys! I've fixed everything up. the rear 6x9s" blew me away. very good bass. the front stock speakers actually could go pretty well. but my right side was busted. but the left was decent. looking for some replacement for the dash speakers. I could do with just 1... cos i'm broke at the moment. anyone has 1 side or even 2 working stock speakers they wanting to dump? maybe can donate (or sell cheaply) to me? lol. will pay postage as well.

syn, for the price of postage you could replace them..
If you are on an extremely low Budget, check out BOSS and see what is available in 4 inch..If no luck try Jensen..(Strathfield carry both)If super cheap is nearby, Check out Panasonic.Just avoid Kenwood so I won't have to pray for you... :badgrin:

Any of them will be better then stock but will need some modifications to fit in the stock hole..

syn, for the price of postage you could replace them..
If you are on an extremely low Budget, check out BOSS and see what is available in 4 inch..If no luck try Jensen..(Strathfield carry both)If super cheap is nearby, Check out Panasonic.Just avoid Kenwood so I won't have to pray for you... :badgrin:

Any of them will be better then stock but will need some modifications to fit in the stock hole..

okay.. sure...haha
i have Jaycar here. i'll probably take a look there.

hey guys, I have found a single speaker for sale on ebay for 10 bucks. its a alpine speaker SPS 100A i think. much more powerful than my stock (obviously)

I'm afraid that the new speaker might be too good to match my stock. what u guys think? It can certainly handle more bass/ volume and the last thing i want is to blow my stock speaker and go around searching for 1 speaker again.

what u guys reckon?

and 1 more thing. what is the exact depth of 1-13/16" in metric? am i looking at 50mm?

~30mm
50MM IS ~ 2 INCH

1 and 13/16ths of an inch is actually 46.0375mm

ie,

1 inch = 25.4 mm
13/16ths = 20.6375 mm


I've just picked up a TS Magna Executive (yesterday) and absolutely hate the original tape deck/radio and speakers. I'm looking at a base model Pioneer or Sony HU which most of you seem to think would be ok based on prior posts here. I too want to put some 4 inch speakers into the slots where the standard ones currently are. I'm looking forward to hearing updates on how everyone has gone with doing this. ie, getting them to fit etc.

I also have some old gear (amp and split speakers) I used to use many (about 12) years ago that I have had in storage. One of the crossovers (passive) was giving me some trouble back then. I'm wondering whether I should just replace it now before installation rather then getting everything in and then finding out that the crossover is still playing up. Do any of the experts here know if you can get crossovers separately or do they only come with a set of speakers? Are all crossovers the same or do they split at different frequencies etc?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Pete

Hey Pete,

No all crossovers are different and are matched to those individual speakers. They ahve differents crossover points, slopes, quality and power handling. Although, given that a crossover designed for a 4 ohm tweeter and mid will work for any 4 ohm speaker and mid. Just to varying degrees of linearity in their frequency response.

best bet is to stick to the intended crossover but I have switched crossovers before without too much hassle.

in the for sale section im selling a used JVC mp3 player EOI and a new Eclipse cd player if ur interested.

I would strongly suggest looking to go 6" splits or at least coaxials into the doors. There are spaces for them in there and this will see a big improvement over any 4" speaker.
You wont have the troubles of fitting them either. Just have to cut through the trim.

You can buy individual crossovers. These can range up to a few hundred dollars though.

Peace

Tim

Hi guys - got my HU today from JB HiFi. Pioneer DEH-2750MP for $184. An absolute bargain.

http://www.pioneeraus.com.au/images/products/deh-2750mp-gs.jpg

I guess I'll be installing it on the weekend. :D

On a TS Magna, what colour is the accessory 12v wire? I plan on running new wires for the rest.

Time to dust off the old Canton speakers and Concord AMP from the Jurassic age.

Hold it , Did you say Canton ??
Your going to feed one of the Best speakers in the World tunes from a Base Model Pioneer ???

SWEET!!!!

You got it baby!

Canton Splits. 6" Woofer and 2" tweeter. Awsome speakers. :D

The Concord AMP was pretty good too for it's day. It's only 50W RMS per channel but it drove the Cantons pretty well. Can't find any info on Concord on the Internet so I'm not sure what's happened to them. ????

Used to run some good gear years ago, before kickass car audio was considered normal. Kids and family matters have meant the budget for this is minimal. Using some of my old gear (I hope it still works). I just needed a new HU.

I have only ever seen Canton Splits fitted to a TR Magna with some severe custom work...

It's alright, I'm pretty handy with an angle grinder and oxy welder. :nuts: :fruitcake

But seriously, going to run them in the rear. I should be able to use the existing 6"x9" holes in the parcel shelf. The Tweeters have their own little boxes and can mount on top of the shelf.

What sort of serious customising are you talking about? I'm keen to know just in case I need to change my plans.

No the Rears should be fine, it is just you are going to need door pods or Build outs to fit the fronts into the doors..

Cool - I was worried about fitting them in the front which is why I am putting them in the back - not ideal for best sound but it'll be better than the std HU and speakers.

I do have some spacers for them which would mount them further out from the door trim but then they would get in the way of the window winder (it's an Executive - no power windows).

Thanks Magnat.