Tim do you have a list of what your running in your car? im just curious.

Also hopefully ill get my sound deadening in soon and fix up all those little things that need fixing and then the TR carputer will be entered into the next SQ comp :D cant wait.

Also theres no cd rom drive in the comp so they wouldnt have anywhere to put there SQ cd :P
Started a new thread...

lol I hope ur kidding about having nowhere to put an SQ cd...

My system:
0 Gauge through to Stinger Distro Block in Boot (ANL fuse/holder at battery.)
2 gauge through to Soundstream Picasso (4x110 w rms) Which runs the subs and the Morel Hybrid 6" mids (Have another picasso to run the subs but havent had the time to install and it wont increase my SQ)
Alpine mrv-405 (4x45 w rms) running ambient tweeters (Cadence ct-70) and main tweeters (Morel mt20)
System is all active, no passive crossovers. Using a 3way coustic crossover and also crossovers on the amps.
Headunit is JVC kdsx985 - Looking to upgrade soonish. Usually use my ipod and also have a pioneer 12 stacker.
Subs are 2 x Digital Designs 1012 in a split sealed box.
Stinger roadkill, astromat, sound off etc on boot, parcel shelf, rear seat, and all through the doors.

Main tweets in kickpanels, ambients in delta covers, mids in stock locations on baffles, Subs facing forward with mini wall in the boot to stop too much cancellation.

Doors fully sealed up with MDF

Anyway im off to go get hammered bai bai

Peace

Tim

Just got home from work and I had been plotting all night to post a thread asking you about your system. So cheers for saving me some time. Also, destroyed my sub today:rant:, so i'm in the market for a new one and have been looking at the DD1012... how do they fare?? any DD dealers in vic?

Just got home from work and I had been plotting all night to post a thread asking you about your system. So cheers for saving me some time. Also, destroyed my sub today:rant:, so i'm in the market for a new one and have been looking at the DD1012... how do they fare?? any DD dealers in vic?

oh try and get a higher series sub! like the 2500 series :P They're good. haha

i think u've told be once before...how did u make active x-overs again? wasn't it DIY?

i wouldn't mind an extra pair of tweeters for my fronts...oh wait..i can't spend any money on car audio..want new vehicle.:(

I wasnt joking about having no cd rom drive lol
If worst comes to worst ill put it back into the computer, so when the refs wanna put in the SQ cd theyll have to open up the boot and get to the comp haha

But the plan is to mold one into the dash right above where the screen is.

oh try and get a higher series sub! like the 2500 series :P They're good. haha ...

I was considering the 2500 series, but i didnt really want to spend that much at the moment. less $$$ spent on sub = more $$$ for new front splits. :D

Ascension - Im pretty sure you need a headunit to compete...
Well strictly speaking anyway...

I dont think carputers can compete there as they aren't car audio, all ur equipment is meant to be car audio. You might wanna double check on caa.

Anyway eitherway Im sure they'll judge you. Just not sure if you'll win points.

Active setup, I use a coustic electronic crossover. RCA in for fronts and sub in, 3 rca outs, one highpassed at appropriate slope/xover point for tweets. ~3khz This signal then gets highpassed again at amps for ambients ~9khz, and passed through for normal tweets to run above 3kz.

For the midbass, it gets bandpassed through the elctronic crossover, and the sub gets lowpassed.

Means a lot of rca leads. (6 all up)

Strung out - Good plan to not spend that much on subs, I havent, put the money where you'll hear it. A sub should play below 80hz, as long as the sub you has plays well between 80-30 hz then it should be suffice, and any money saved here that is put into splits will see a lot more improvement for overall sound quality than a $1k sub could ever see.

Given that, I find that the DD subs have that American feel to them. They are heavily weighted around 40hz, which is awesome for kickdrums, but ultimately there are many better choices out there for SQ.
These choices come with added expense. (Re XXX, IDmax etc)

I run mine in sealed boxes as I have the power to do so and also have two of them, most other DD users would recommend ported boxes for sheer output. Depends what floats your boat.

PM Fhrx for prices, + discount, I have no doubt that he will have some better alternatives for you as well.

There are no retailers in VIC :(

Peace

Tim

mmm, yeah, i'd agree, 40Hz, and maybe a bit higher, mine is INSANE!

low extension isn't as good, but hey i don't mind. I drive around like a fullysickhardcore doodf doooff kid :shifty: lol

yeah, i have no idea about the carputer rule either, ill get it checked up on.
At the last CAA meet marc send to me i should enter it into the comp, so if he said i should enter then i guess it will be okai?
Anyways it doesnt bother me if im not in the actual competition, i just want to get judges feedback for now so i know what to improve on.

Besides how can you draw a line whats car audio or not? I mean if its got to do with the audio and its in the car... its car audio right?

yeh true, i can see them making another category eventually. Carpc's have lots of advantages... Especially on the equalisation side. Not too hard to find some good eq software out there.

If Marc said it's cool, then there wont be a problem, the rules have always been flexible.

At the moment im running, Phoenix gold Ti sub, earthquake amp powering that giving it 500watts.
Focal 165V2 splits and an old school alpine amp powering it (mrv t502) giving the splits 75watts each.
All running through the carputer (i love playing solitare when stuck in traffic lol)
At the moment it sounds OK, truth i think theres something wrong with it.
The problem is, the focals are in door pods, the door pods are screwed into place into the flimsy door trims. And the door trims flex off the inner door skin.
(focals are to big to fit into stock 6" speaker hole)

So this is what im doing now, ive picked up a new amp (JL Audio e4300) that can output 75watts x 4. So i can run an active front with this one amp.
Or i can just bridge the chans and i get 220 watts x 2 which will give me heaps of headroom even with new splits.
Im going to sell my focals and buy some 6" (maybe some morels 6) and screw them STRAIGHT into the factory position so this way i can sound deaden both the doors and make the COMPLETY dead which is my goal.
Then i just have to sound deaden the boot... and THEN will i enter the comp :D

excellent... :)

They dont listen to it too loudly at comps... Not enough to make ur boot vibrate, maybe ur number plate...

oh yeah, i didnt think of that.
But the 2nd gen magnas are so shocking at rattles, even at low levels, you can hear heaps of **** rattling from the flimsy metal boot, the locks on the doors, the review view mirror... the dash! ****k i just hate thinking bout it cuz its gonna b a huge job... especially when ive never apllied any SD before. :shock:

Ah its more $$$ that is the hard part, getting it on isnt too bad, just clean with turps, heat it up and roll it on. Doesnt have to be too pretty

I couldnt live without it though.

Yeah ive got the SD material sitting in the garage waiting to be installed, just being a full time uni student leaves you with no time.
I had my bro sitting on my boot while i was playing some music, and the difference was amazing.
I cant wait to get the SD in.