Anyone had a crack at it? Now that I have bought a cheaper car (ra65 celica) I am game to give some things I wouldnt have done to the magna a go.

Does anyone have any experince they can share with me?

With a port and polish - you use your manifold gasket as a guide as to how much material you can remove for your port matching, use a decent die grinter (preferably airpowered, rather than one of those cheapie dremels) with decent tungsten carbide bits.

The aim is to remove some of the shrouding around the valves, but if you go too mad you will end up with valves not sealing properly any more.

Do a 3 angle valve job while you are at it too.

Oh yeah - wear glasses!

Cheers
Heath Young

If it's your first go I'd leave the valve seats and shrouds WELL ALONE for the time being. Start with the exhaust ports. Remember aluminium is softer than iron and will disappear VERY QUICKLY.

Do ALL the exhaust ports first and at the same time. This lets you compare and match the ports identically as you work. Aim to have them looking and feeling identical. You need to get these to a good polished finished.

Now do the inlet ports. Inlet ports don't need to be polished - just de-burred. The incoming air enjoys the turbulence from the unpolished port and helps with air/fuel mixing pre-cylinder.

If you get serious you can install oversized valves etc. Back cut the valves.

You shouldn't get into too much trouble.

this is from a us website - does anyone have info if the valves/ports are the same as aussie magnas - they look remarkably similar


The tables below present cylinder head flow information collected from the Team3S email list, the 3SI.ORG message board, and from personal communication (special thanks to Paul Prentis at PPE Engineering). A cylinder head is placed on a flow bench and the volume air flow through the heads is measured when there is 28 inches of water (or ~1 psi) pressure drop across the heads. Stock gross valve lift for our engines is a little over 0.350 inches for both intake and exhaust. At 0.300" lift, both TT and NT heads can flow more air, with a 1 psi pressure loss, than the cylinders can handle at 8000 rpm. That is excellent! However, flow bench measurements cannot measure the performance of heads when in actual use. On a running engine, there are dynamic forces from the valves opening and closing, and air supply changes from the turbos. Head "flow work" (the shaping of combustion chambers, runners, and ports), when done properly, can reduce the pressure loss through the heads at various flow levels (or equivalently, flow more air at the same pressure loss), both on the bench and dynamically on the engine.

The top table below is for stock turbocharged-engine heads. The bottom two tables are for a stock non-turbo (normally aspirated) engine head (left table) and the same head after flow work (right table).
Flow bench measurements, stock TT head, cfm
Valve Lift Intake Exhaust
0.100" 86-93 77-80
0.200" 165-179 151-164
0.300" 223-230 191-200
0.400" 246-262 195-216
0.500" 249-256 196-219
Values from Barry King (Team3S) and Pat (aka PWR on 3SI).
Max vol. flow at 8000 RPM, 100% VE each cyl. bank = 210 cfm.

Flow bench measurements, stock NT head, cfm
Valve Lift Intake Exhaust
0.100" 84.1 73.5
0.200" 169.0 156.5
0.300" 219.9 185.4
0.400" 233.3 191.1
Values from Paul Prentis (PPE Engineering LLC).
Max vol. flow at 8000 RPM, 100% VE each cyl. bank = 210 cfm.
Flow bench measurements, ported NT head, cfm
Valve Lift Intake Exhaust
0.100" 90.6 96.2
0.200" 174.9 183.5
0.300" 242.3 210.8
0.400" 260.5 218.8
Values from Paul Prentis (PPE Engineering LLC).
Ferrea 1-mm oversized valves installed.

Just leave the **** to pros. If you **** up than you gonna have to pay for new heads. U'll never know if it helped or not without a flow bench. However if you do decide to do it then practice on on intake manifold and ur throttle body first before touching the heads.

Have a look at the Valvoline website link attached, "http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=res20040801pm&cccid=5&scccid=9".

They have a good rundown on porting an inlet manifold. As has already been mentioned, try porting something that is easily and hopefully cheaper to replace, ie, modify the inlet manifold and header port to match the existing ports in the head.

Ken

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm

heres a comprehensive guide with pictures

Just have to buy all the bits, I have a spare intake manifold to try on.

best way to learn if you want to do it yourself go to the wrecker buy a cheap crappy 2nd hand head that is buggered (doesnt matter what car its off) and practice on that. once youre confident then try your own head.

Becareful not to make the ports to big or you may go into water/oil galleries.

And sometimes big ports doesnt mean good flow either. Have an ask round at different machine shops that have done that particular motor see what they do porting wise.

Theres usually a nack to the shape a port needs on a specific motor to make it flow well,
so if u ask enuff peeps then take the most common response and give that a go.

some ports just need enlarging others need more taken from the top others from the bottom.
some only from the outter edge of the port, so its always worth the ask of some that have done it before and pool together as much info as you can

Ummm u gotta get it all perfectally even, and do it do direct the air flow aswell.

It's best left to pro's with CNC mills and stuff like that.

Ummm u gotta get it all perfectally even, and do it do direct the air flow aswell.

It's best left to pro's with CNC mills and stuff like that.


if by that you mean even between each port then yes, but which shape the port is isnt always going to be the same from head to head all depends on what flow is best suited to that engine. And the cost of using a cnc machine :nuts: , porting is normally done by hand with die grinder and specialty tips. You can by them from most tool places.

Its always good to ask around places that have done performance builds on these engines.
Have alook at places that race or rally these engines they may give you some pointers as to the best shape for the port, best advised to make it noticable anways is a decent cam and a good set of carbs(twin 45mm webers) would make it just that bit better

but which shape the port is isnt always going to be the same from head to head all depends on what flow is best suited to that engine.


If you've never done anything before ur not gonna get it the same from port to port now are u? It's gonna **** up the flow causing more to one than another, it's gotta be the same. No the ports arnt gonna be the same but there is a base to go on and that's the shape is meant to be isnt it? So you would get them all to that shape then modify. But how many people without all the flow equipment will know which part to enlarge, which to smooth out etc etc etc. I needs to be done profesionally, other wise if u **** it up u need new heads.

The best thing to do would be to clean and smooth them out more than anything and save up untill u can get them actually ported.

Thats all I was going to do, get rid of all the casting marks and smoothe everything out, I was just going to do the manifold at this stage to get an idea.

Yeah just go for that but first send it somewhere so they can dip it in acid to make it look brand new. Its gonna be a ***** getting the heads off the car though, good luck. then you are gonna probably replace seals and such so its gonna end up costing you a bit more than you think.