:nuts: yes its fix it time, the GT gos in next week for new timing/balance chain guides and tensioner, a friend is doing the work in his workshop for $300 drive in drive away and he is one of the few machanics you can take a 1st gen too without the "why its a ****ing magna" then again he knows whats been done to it also, i dont think is a bad price as im providing the chain kit and gaskets, other fix it to do's are my heater working on all 4 speeds not 3 & 4, and sogg put a hix on me my tacho started to dance last week gotta look into that also i may try a find a 7v vreg while im at it and that will have everything done for "now"

Pete

It seems almost all magna tachos fail, and heater fans, interestingly mirages blow the same fan resistor

can anyone point me to the location of the resistor so i tell the morons at the wreckers where to pull it out from?

is it worth fitting a balance shaft removal kit why im at it? pro's n con's anyone done it

peter

sogg put a hix on me my tacho started to dance last week gotta look into that also i may try a find a 7v vreg while im at it and that will have everything done for "now"

Pete

LOL LOL LOL. i think our cars have some kind of connection.. Coz my 7volt reg buggered up, the resistor block also buggered up. and currently the tacho is buggered LOL. i wonder what will screw up next. On the topic of 7v regs, i reckon go get one from a dealer, atleast u know its brand spanking new and not the fault if the gauge continues not to work

is this the same reg for the fuel/engine temp/battery level?

yes thats the one replaced my fuel send and im still a quarter of a tank out

i just used a 8v reg from dick smith, since id rather my fuel tank read full for abit, than have it say empty for ages with the buggered 7v reg :)

DSE didnt have them last time i checked ill just hit the local mitsi dealer

Pete

The mitsu part # is AW311163 gonna cost you $28.. A brand new sender will cost $156 last time i enquired

can anyone point me to the location of the resistor so i tell the morons at the wreckers where to pull it out from?

It's a little rectangular block with a socket that's located in the fan housing under the dash on the left hand side.. It should have three curly wires on the back - Kinda makes you wonder weather you could just replace the wires with resistors of the same value though.. :)

My car is havin the timing/balance chain & guides done today, my machanic friend calls about 2pm, "just calling to let you know your oil pump is ****ed the chain tensioner has 2mm play in the bore and needs to be changed" im like grr ffs, then he "gos its still apart what do you want me to do?." 40 seconds of thinking past in silence, i said replace it then he starts laughing "f*#kin got ya didnt i" he go's just callin to ask if you are ok with me putting in antifreeze anti boil its running fine.

bastard got me good he he cant wait till get it back at 5:30 just as well hes taking me fishing this weekend

pete

:bowrofl:

haha thats classic :D
the guys at RPW highly recommend deleting the balance shafts though, cause then u can run just a small chain which wont stretch and stuff up so easily

also the guys at RPW said tectaloy coolant will f**k ur engine badly.
they said theyve seen many engines destroyed because of that stuff.

also the guys at RPW said tectaloy coolant will f**k ur engine badly.
they said theyve seen many engines destroyed because of that stuff.

i end up going with the anti rust stuff cant rember what its called, he checked the balance shafts they seem to be fine, he also cleaned my entire engine not that it really needed it, my timing chain wasnt that bad but the balance shaft chain & guides where stuffed it was streched to the point he removed it without backing off the tension really scary as i would rev it to 5k+ at times and that chain could have came unstuck at any time.

cost me $40 more than quoted as i forgot i didnt have any spare oil in the car or anti rust green crap, money well spent

cheers pete

damn ey, i just put tectaloy in mine. ah well. I just need the car to last me a few more years..., by then it would need another engine anyway im thinking... or better still a better car :cool:

i end up going with the anti rust stuff cant rember what its called, he checked the balance shafts they seem to be fine, he also cleaned my entire engine not that it really needed it, my timing chain wasnt that bad but the balance shaft chain & guides where stuffed it was streched to the point he removed it without backing off the tension really scary as i would rev it to 5k+ at times and that chain could have came unstuck at any time.

cost me $40 more than quoted as i forgot i didnt have any spare oil in the car or anti rust green crap, money well spent

cheers pete

might have been worth taking the balance shafts out since he had it all apart but ohwell. good to see u caught it in time though :D i wonder how close mine was too going... ive been doing 5 grand changes quite often even up to 6 grand on a couple of occasions in first gear.

maybe i should save up or sell an organ for a honda s2000, they have a 9000rpm redline :D
the prototype from memory revved to 13000rpm :shock:

damn ey, i just put tectaloy in mine. ah well. I just need the car to last me a few more years..., by then it would need another engine anyway im thinking... or better still a better car :cool:

ive been using tectaloy aswell, i was using 90 plus thinking it would be the ultimate in anti-corosion. i cant remember what the mechanic told me to put in, either the mitsubishi factory one or some brand they are using. anyway he said tectaloy was "battery acid"

ok guys this has me stumped since having the car back from getting the timing chain done it doesnt seem to be able to pull a wet fart in dirty jocks compaired to what it used to go like, ive also noticed it pop's like hell on downchanges compaired to what it used too and i think it backfired once downshifting either that or it was a ****in loud pop.

i know they retimed the engine would this do it as when they droped the car back they asked me how i had it timed i said i haddent touched the timing so i presumed its stock they said they timed it to stock spec would this do it considing my breathing mods?

Pete

If its Efi maybe try resetting your ecu, I know when i do stuff to my car i reset it so it retunes itself faster.

i think they had the battery dissconnected when doing the work but ill do it anyways and see

It will take about a week for the ecu to settle down again

maybe i should save up or sell an organ for a honda s2000, they have a 9000rpm redline :D
Save your organ, such a peaky engine - S2000 is crap to drive in daily use. :doubt:

It will take about a week for the ecu to settle down again

noticed the difference just on the way to work, if it settles back to the same again ill bypass the computer and static time it about 13-15

ok guys this has me stumped since having the car back from getting the timing chain done it doesnt seem to be able to pull a wet fart in dirty jocks compaired to what it used to go like, ive also noticed it pop's like hell on downchanges compaired to what it used too and i think it backfired once downshifting either that or it was a ****in loud pop.

i know they retimed the engine would this do it as when they droped the car back they asked me how i had it timed i said i haddent touched the timing so i presumed its stock they said they timed it to stock spec would this do it considing my breathing mods?

Think your timing might be 'off' compared to what you had before.

When my TN was newer, the engine needed to be rebuilt after a prang and the
panelshop advanced the timing too much. Pinged like crazy unless I used PULP
but one could feel the extra power - wheelspin in dry!

At the next service the dealer was asked to check over the panelshop's work;
they found the timing was too advanced & reset it. Got it back with less power
and less pinging and I could use ULP again.

Think your timing might be 'off' compared to what you had before.

When my TN was newer, the engine needed to be rebuilt after a prang and the
panelshop advanced the timing too much. Pinged like crazy unless I used PULP
but one could feel the extra power - wheelspin in dry!

At the next service the dealer was asked to check over the panelshop's work;
they found the timing was too advanced & reset it. Got it back with less power
and less pinging and I could use ULP again.

well 10-13 btc is stock so ill wait and see as it was i couldnt use standard ULP in summer as it would ping at 3k rpm ive been running 95% oct for months now, kinda miss the way it was

It will take about a week for the ecu to settle down again
1st gen's ECU aren't very smart; what they can't learn in 5 mins they won't ever learn.

just set it to 15 btdc & its alot better now :badgrin: im happy

thats interestin, ne body else who has advanced timing with pulp made a big diff? Just seeing if its worth doing and the extra cost of pulp

pulp stoped my origional ping but i now use it for the few extra k's per tank standard ulp hit $1.21.9 cpl tonight, payed $1.24.9 cpl for pulp yesterday when i fuleded glad i did my motor seems to run better on it also

pete