Hows things,

Noticed on my car the radiator was pritty loose, this would be the reason for my recent vibration issues.

(Magna TR 92)
Bought a Soldering Iron, and Super Glue.

I'll try describe it as best I can....

At the front of the radiator, next to the cap along the end of the pipe, there is those 2 "mounts".

Radiator
+ ______Pipe&Cap______ + <-- + is the seals and where it gets support to stay up, its come undone. the metal parts have unjoined.

Would people suggest soldering this part back on? and will it hold?

Also add high power glue?


any ideas??


thanks in advance.
RuSSiaN

The radiator end tanks are made of copper, and the rest is made of aluminium.

With the radiator full, you won't be able to solder to it - you won't have enough power out of a soldering iron unless you have a 300W one or something (!) - you need to use a gas flame (like a propane torch) and remove the radiator while you do it.

Personally I would get some advice from a radiator place if I were you - I am not sure how the seals between the aluminium and copper end tanks are made, if they are crimped and use rubber, the heat from your soldering could cause it to leak.

I would seek some professional advice...

Cheers
Heath Young

Anyone know how much it would cost to fix, also get the new seals?


Mitsubishi OR private place?

The Radiator in your car TR/TS is made from plastic and copper/Brass

Plastic tanks copper/brass core the only way to fix the broken mount is to take it into a radiator repair shop and ask them to fix it/ replace it with a new tank

there is no way to fix it at home no matter how much you try, the plastic that the tanks are made from is made that way so you can not repair it ...

trust me i do this for a living.....

besides tanks are only built to last for 7-10 years...Put a new tank on it and get it cleaned out as well, at least it is done then...... :cool:

At the front of the radiator, next to the cap along the end of the pipe, there is those 2 "mounts".

Radiator
+ ______Pipe&Cap______ + <-- + is the seals and where it gets support to stay up, its come undone. the metal parts have unjoined.

Would people suggest soldering this part back on? and will it hold?

Are you talking about parts of the actual radiator, or the top (separate) mount clamp bits?

The ones on my TN... the top mounts seemed to be
2 metal plates glued together by a foamy rubber middle bit.

Foam rubber bit failed and the radiator started flopping around... so all I did was
to scrape off the torn rubber, replaced it with ... err I think it was a pencil eraser ...
then cabletied the two metal bits together.

Top clamps shouldn't be load-bearing (radiator should bear its weight on the bottom)
and they're only there to stop the radiator rocking back/forth.



If you need to do any "welding", try JB Weld.

Its a 2part cold-cure epoxy made for sticking to metals. Works great if you use it correctly.

Don't bother doing any DIY soldering/brazing on radiators, it don't work.
And you definitely can't do it with water inside it...

Sorry for the thread hijack, but where do you get JB Weld - I have been looking for it for a while, had no luck :(

Cheers
Heath Young

Sorry for the thread hijack, but where do you get JB Weld - I have been looking for it for a while, had no luck :(
Just keep your eye out for it, have found it at KMart, BigW etc etc
... but usually never when you need it. :badgrin:

Its 2 black-n-white tubes on a red card, about $20.

Not cheap but I've done magic with it - fantastic stuff (just like "ShoeGoo").

Train your "personal radar" to spot the tubes and you'll eventually find some.
Next time I see it on a shelf anywhere I'll note it & let ya know, you're in VIC ya?

Just keep your eye out for it, have found it at KMart, BigW etc etc
... but usually never when you need it. :badgrin:

Its 2 black-n-white tubes on a red card, about $20.

Not cheap but I've done magic with it - fantastic stuff (just like "ShoeGoo").

Train your "personal radar" to spot the tubes and you'll eventually find some.
Next time I see it on a shelf anywhere I'll note it & let ya know, you're in VIC ya?


Im also in Vic, What exactly does the stuff do?

I need it re-welded, though the plastic part has also snapped, and the rubbers are wearing away, ill try provide a photo for people to see.

Im also in Vic, What exactly does the stuff do?

JB Weld is a 2part epoxy glue that is formulated to etch into metals, so it
bonds very well to most metals - probably nearly as good as welding.

Its *better* than welding even under certain circumstances... like when
I wanted to stick aluminium to steel. No arc/mig/tig welder can do that!!

You have to use it correctly (read the instructions; need heat + 24hrs cure)
but once you know how to do that, that JB stuff is unbelievably useful.
Once its cured its rockhard and can be drilled, tapped, filed etc.
Yeah can be painted too.




I need it re-welded, though the plastic part has also snapped, and the rubbers are wearing away, ill try provide a photo for people to see.
Plastic parts will be harder to glue, even with Araldite epoxy or cynoacrylates (superglue).
If its a nylon or PVC type plastic its even worse... they're like sticking down teflon.

Glues also weaken with heat - which don't help your cause.


If you don't want to buy a new radiator just for good mounting points, interesting
innovations can be done with aluminium angle bars (go Bunnings), hoseclamps or
cableties and a rivetgun. :cool: Radiator ain't rocketscience.

Someone elses engine - cheers to whoevers it is.

Just put a circle around the Seals which has come off at the bottem and the seals which will need replacing?


any ideas on the seals & also re-attaching it (where its welded has come off)



cheers, looking into the bunnings idea