help pls how to hide all my cables

hey alan. glad to see u moved your battery to the boot...mmm...all that stinger 0 gauge.


you'd probably have to go out and buy yourself a few sheets of 6mm or thicker MDF, cut it out and carpet it, to cover up all the stuff. Taking it that your battery is a dry cell, so it doesn't need to be vented or in a box......so that shouldn't be a problem

just..with the amp...just cut a gap for the amp...or if u really wanted to go fancy, buy a piece of glass and put it over etc etc...

can you pls draw me a quick pic of what you mean??

Have a look in the boot install sticky for some ideas (my idea is similar to eeks)

at uni...


for the side it, it would probably be a bit hard to slide all the cables under the carpet on the side, since u have 0gauge, lol.

trace out the shape of the boot...and cut it out on MDF...mount some more L brackets and attach it on.


the amp side...probably have to make a box, since it sticks out so much.

i done mine like this

behind the amp is cable central ... other side of the boot has an amp as well .. and a false floor so all the cables are behind the false walls and floor

Yeah, if I were you, cut a few quick holes in the carpet and just run it under the carpet, quick and easy, plus no need to false-floor it all ;-)

Looks good mate...

Might be a good idea to build a battery box for your battery though... I know they are sealed but u still need them to compete in CAASQ, and it has to be vented to atmosphere. (happy to provide info on how)
If you have an accident and terminals touch chassis... boom...

As for wiring, go with loom tube and heatshrink. Looks bling.
You keeping ur xxx I take it?

Peace

Tim

thanks for the replys


colgate how have you attached the panel onto the side of the car??

Tim more info would be great (battery) yes i am keeping hte xxx for now sounds alot better now thats its in the right size box

but i am havin alot of cancellation where i have the sub position but thats where i want to put it

how did you go about the wall for your subs 1 sub in my case??

sup alan. ihave my false wall and its like the right size that it just sits there, u can have a look on saturday if u like..

but yeh thats what i would def do for ur amp, and maybe fire the sub through the ski port?

apart from that im not sure.. i would get a box for ur battery but just so it looks blingy and safer.

Yeah colgate, would def be interested in how u fix the panel that you have on the side etc to the car....are they just press fit around ur amp. Also with flase floors ive seen a few diff things...ive seen them tek screwed to the floor, seen brackets welded in to take them, and also seen them just wedged in....what did u find is best?? Have u screwed into the floor anywhere??

Just trying to get some ideas about how im going to construct mine and particularly wanted to avoid having to drill into the boot floor to secure stuff, but not sure how else u would....dont want to drill my fuel tank either really!!

Tim more info would be great (battery) yes i am keeping hte xxx for now sounds alot better now thats its in the right size box

but i am havin alot of cancellation where i have the sub position but thats where i want to put it

how did you go about the wall for your subs 1 sub in my case??
You are rear loading so wouldnt get any benefit out of a wall. Dealing with cancellation involves moving the box position around so if you want to keep it where it is you may run into strife.

Build a solid box for the battery. Slightly larger to make it easy to get the battery in. Using MDF, make a lid for it, ensure its fused well. Seal up all the leads going into it, then attach a small tube to the top and vent this to the outside by running it into one of the drain holes in the wheel well or another vent hole. Most cars have vents in the boot to release the pressure that builds up when u close your boot.
The reasoning for this is to release the gases that most batteries discharge. Not as relevent for sealed dry cells, but nevertheless best to be on the safe side.

Peace

Tim


I think they might be in the rear quarter panels.

sorry tim i would front load if in wall can you pls provide more details about the wall process

It's a divider in ur boot. It has to cover as much space as possible, this reduces the amount of waves that travel into your boot area. You can use wood/mdf for this.
Mine just jams in there and bolts onto the back of the sub box. There is only a few cm gap above the top so it holds the sub box in place and means I can use the 1/2 boot easily without worrying about amps/processors and subs getting damaged.

I covered mine in carpet.

This and front loading, also helps to reduce boot rattle. Otherwise I would rear load my subs.

Neither is 'better' many would say rear loading is best with a boot as large as the Magna. But in other cars it is a different story.

tim can you pls post some pic of your box and wall

how close is the sub face to rear seats?

how thick is the wall??

thanks

sooo who wants to make me up an mdf false floor? :P my woodworking/jigsaw skills are non-existant, plus i dont have tools.

little bit of money in it for someone from QLD.....perhaps someone who has one already and can make another using the existing one as a template? :D

Ah soz alan, missed this thread... Will get around to it on the weekend hopefully. Remind me if I forget... Or when I forget :p

if you get a chance tim

it would be great

thanks

how hard are fake floors and walls to make would you guys reccomend it for a neater sub installation? How do you get to your spare with a fake floor??

liverpool - my current project is constructing a false floor, ~80% complete. I can only speak from a 3rd gen point of view, but construction thus far has been quite easy, its basically in 3 parts.

The main part where the amps are housed was cut to size by removing the wooden spare tire cover, and using it as a template. Secondly, the carpet from the entire boot was removed and a template was drawn onto construction paper for the two side pieces. Using the templates, wehre then placed on some MDF and cut to size. This process was repeated for the top section of the floor. After a test fitting, I had to grab the good old jigsaw out again and trim a few small sections. it all fits in fairly well now.

Access to the spare tire is achieved as the false floor will be hinged to the bottom of the sub box using a piano hinge. In total i've only lost about 70-80 mm of height in the boot. All that is left now is to cover the panels and source some plexiglass to display the amps. Total time spent would probably be around 4-5 hours

/thread hijacking

liverpool - my current project is constructing a false floor, ~80% complete. I can only speak from a 3rd gen point of view, but construction thus far has been quite easy, its basically in 3 parts.

The main part where the amps are housed was cut to size by removing the wooden spare tire cover, and using it as a template. Secondly, the carpet from the entire boot was removed and a template was drawn onto construction paper for the two side pieces. Using the templates, wehre then placed on some MDF and cut to size. This process was repeated for the top section of the floor. After a test fitting, I had to grab the good old jigsaw out again and trim a few small sections. it all fits in fairly well now.

Access to the spare tire is achieved as the false floor will be hinged to the bottom of the sub box using a piano hinge. In total i've only lost about 70-80 mm of height in the boot. All that is left now is to cover the panels and source some plexiglass to display the amps. Total time spent would probably be around 4-5 hours

/thread hijacking

megatron, the type x looks hot.RE XXX? :P

hehe, for the false floor i'd say anything more than 8mm mdf would be plenty. 12 would do fine. even ur wall alan...12mm would be suffice.

if you get a chance tim

it would be great

thanks

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Peace

Tim

RE XXX? :P huh?
strung_out = :nuts: today

EDIT: got my wires crossed with the type x - was thinking of genocides type x.. strung_out = :nuts::nuts::nuts: today

Had a few q's: The Mini wall is 120cmx49cm
It's not wide enough, but I cbf fixin it. So if you were to make one for yourself make it a bit wider and obviously the other dimensions can be cut to suit your box/amps.

There is shelf cut out of the wall to fit the soundstream in... Also matches the curves of the boot well.

Peace

Tim

how did you fasten the miniwall so it doesnt fall over? I was wanting to do something similar but hadnt figured out how yet, so your pics have given me plenty of stuff to think about! Thanks.

The miniwall screws into two blocks either side of the sub box. (one through the fire extinguisher) If you look in ur boot you will also see two brackets that come out with holes in them . The top of the miniwall slots into here with a tight fit to stop it moving around...

I still need to properly secure the sub box... It will move slightly with spirited driving.

Peace

Tim

how did u get the sub so close to the back of the seats

i just checked and there is noway i can fit my sub there

sub 12", 1" + 1" for top and bottom of box 14" INTOTAL

measeure only 13"???

what's going on??????


can't put hte sub on a angle cause the sub basket is too big only about 3-5 degrees to pay with, which is still not enough room

My sub box has a fair bit of angle. More than the back seats. There is divider on the front too. that is the carpetted bit.
May be hard for you to do with a square box.

Would get it out to take a piccy, but would take me all day :( I'll take a pic of the whole box next time I have it out.)

did a bit of moving thing around and i think it looks better

ALSO new odyssey 1700 battery