I just Bought a Set of Pioneer TSC1602 Woofers. (Tweeters were sold seperately as I got them off a friend) . Problem is they are too small to bolt onto the plastic Surround they have insufficient space to screw into and leave gaps around the woofer.
Lucky for me I only paid a Small fee for them so it is not as if I lost a huge amount of money on them
They need a 6.5 inch MDF adaptor to fit properly..

So in concluding the front Speakers of 3rd Gens are 6.5 inch as 6 inch is too small.

I just Bought a Set of Pioneer TSC1602 splits. Problem is they are too small to boly onto the plastic Surround they have insufficient space to screw into and leave gaps around the woofer.

They need a 6.5 inch MDF adaptor to fit properly..

So in concluding the front Speakers of 3rd Gens are 6.5 inch as 6 inch is too small. You should be taking out that crappy plastic adaptor and making a nice MDF plate for it anyhow.

Sounds heaps better :)

Too much Effort...When you choose High quality Speakers, they should sound Good mounted anywhere.. Mine Sound great mounted to the plastic...I was just going to use a Cheap set of fronts so when I go cruising I don't have to worry about Blowing $279 Magnat Splits I cannot get anymore..

I may start putting some money aside and see if I cannot get another set imported in..

ive got 6 inch pioneer speakers for the front and they fitted fine

Too much Effort...When you choose High quality Speakers, they should sound Good mounted anywhere.. Mine Sound great mounted to the plastic...I was just going to use a Cheap set of fronts so when I go cruising I don't have to worry about Blowing $279 Magnat Splits I cannot get anymore..

I may start putting some money aside and see if I cannot get another set imported in..

Nah man, I've still got my focals on the plastic and it's ****, they flex back and forth like crazy. My next mission is to make some mdf boards but i'm still trying to work out spacing and stuff, a pair of off the deck splits would prolly be fine, but some amped fronts really show up that plastic mount :(

Matthius

Too much Effort...When you choose High quality Speakers, they should sound Good mounted anywhere.. Mine Sound great mounted to the plastic...I was just going to use a Cheap set of fronts so when I go cruising I don't have to worry about Blowing $279 Magnat Splits I cannot get anymore..

I may start putting some money aside and see if I cannot get another set imported in..

Why bother buying high quality speakers if you aren't going to invest the same amount of time and money in mounting them correctly? It's the installation that goes a LONG way towards making any speaker sound to its full potential.

ive got kicker 6.5 inches in the front of mine mounted to the plastic surround and its sound quality is pretty dam good. But yeah mounted onto mdf would be better.

Yeah any speaker will sound crap at any decent volume on a plastic mount.

Stocks or aftermarket. You all should be investing in decent door preparation. It is almost as important as speaker selection if you plan on listening to it at any crusing volume (ie overcoming all road noise)

Peace

Tim

i bought $600 Focal splits... custom MDF panel with lots of sound deadening and covered completely so the MDF never gets wet.. (thanks Tonkins!)

those plastic thingys look like they'd fall apart if a speaker with any bass tried to even move in there!

oh they were 5" anyway so were never going to be close...


does anyone know if the plasic mould is different on cars with or without electric windows?

Yeh just paint the mdf before you put it in... then u never need to worry about it... Any ordinary outdoor paint works a treat

just a question magnat.....why is it that you think you know absolutely everything about magnas? and feel that you have to teach us things?

If you had searched the forums you would find a heap of threads about the size of magna front speakers.

I think you should have a look at the way you word your posts. You come across very patronising :doubt:

just a question magnat.....why is it that you think you know absolutely everything about magnas? and feel that you have to teach us things?

If you had searched the forums you would find a heap of threads about the size of magna front speakers.

I think you should have a look at the way you word your posts. You come across very patronising :doubt:


Where have I ever stated that I know everything about Magna's.... Never..

As for patronising??? I fail to see it...
I have merely stated a mistake I made... as for the search button, it does not seem to cover mistakes made personally as If I had made the same mistake before, I would not have posted it a second time...

hey hey back to the topic fellas!! Group hug! Lets not start another war!

Ive got some Morel Pulse 6s, and with the amps gain (Response 2x150) turned down to minimum and the HU up loud, the factory plastic baffles make horrible sharp slapping noises. Ive got the MDF and everything else needed to make proper baffles, but just have to find the time. I want to try to make a setup as close to the original shape and design as possible so it fires out on a angle the same as the factory mount. Will be pretty hard but hopefully it'll work.
As an aside, the magnets on the Morels JUST clears the white plastic wondow mount (electric windows) by about 1mm, and thats with pushing the speaker as far as it can go to the right and then making my own screw holes in the factory baffle.

Anyone got some pics of some angles baffles they've made?

Cheers
Pete

If I go the MDF Route with the Speaker baffle, would it be as easy as Tracing the Plastic Part onto the MDF and going that way ??

Would 12mm Be too thick ???
S_tim_ulate your input would prove valuable here ??

yeah but then it would still be flat and not on an angle which is the bit Im having trouble with, as the speaker on the factory mount sits with the magnet sitting out behind the baffle, but the front sticking out the front, so you need to do some fancy angle work... anybody done this before?

Maybe Speaker spacers made from MDF on top of the MDF baffle ??

I remember seeing an install somewhere in my early years where the MDF Spacers were shaped pointing up on an Angle to fire through the Stock hole?? it does seem like a tonne of custom work and a bit of money ????

Thats what I was hoping to do... make the baffle so that the splits fire through the factory 'guide tube thingy'... Or is it not worth the hassle? Would I be better unscrewing that direction pipe thing and just making my own angled baffle pointing in the general direction of the hole in the door?

Too much Effort...When you choose High quality Speakers, they should sound Good mounted anywhere.. Mine Sound great mounted to the plastic...I was just going to use a Cheap set of fronts so when I go cruising I don't have to worry about Blowing $279 Magnat Splits I cannot get anymore..

I may start putting some money aside and see if I cannot get another set imported in..

This has to be the funniest idea I have ever heard of.

Sure buy a good high quality speaker and mount it anywhere and get great sound...your joking right. Why tye hell do you think guys pay a fortune to have stuff installed correctly...so it sounds good. If you want to mount your $279 splits ( to me high quality is way more than that but anyway) in the original plastic mounts you can expect a hell of a lot of flex. Mits put 15watt crapers in there that dont produce bass so as soon as you put a speaker in there that can the plastic is not rigid enough. Build some good quality MDF boards and sound deaden at least the area behind the speaker.

ITS ALIVEEEEEEEEEEE


where've you been funky




sorry for off topic post

hey hey back to the topic fellas!! Group hug! Lets not start another war!

Ive got some Morel Pulse 6s, and with the amps gain (Response 2x150) turned down to minimum and the HU up loud, the factory plastic baffles make horrible sharp slapping noises.

Pete


:bowrofl: I know the exact noise your talking about.

Matthius

Atm im just using mdf baffles on the plastic crap... Im not that happy with them, but too hard to find the time to go proper MDF route.

I want to also create a baffle that mounts with as much angle as possible inside the magna doors. Preferably without fibreglassing, but it may come to that.

If you use MDF baffles on the plastic you have to hack away at the plastic a bit to ensure the baffle sits flush. The plasti is not completely flush due to the stock angle.

Also ensure it is sealed up well.... You can use blutack, or proper strips of speaker sealant.



here is something that may help...

These are Mulga's baffles.



Hey Funky!

Peace

Tim

I just have one Question, If you still have the plastic Baffle in place, does this not cause Vibration between the Two ??

At volume, I can hear the plastic creaking, deadener stops this to a certain extent, but as I said before Im not happy with it...

Wil change it one day just need to find the time.

Yeah that is what I was thinking of, (Mulgas baffles) but with an angle on them more like the stock angle.

I've just reinstalled my front stage cause of the half effort I did the first time round...

MASSIVE DIFFERENCE!!!

The original install was okay but I ended up getting water inside the door trim and over the mounts cause I was a tool and left the windows down (and it rained) one night....
http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/Bad install water damage speaker mount.jpg
http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/YUCK Previous door install.jpg

I have now reinstalled the FOCAL splits with Focal Plain chant (RRP $80) and a Dynamat Extreme Door Kit 4' which was halved for each door (RRP $60),with some foam and Dacron to the door panels, as well as applying almost 1L of KH bitumen deadener (RRP $36 for 4L) on each of the trims.

I made some 9mm MDF baffles to replace the crap plastic one's altogether, water proofed the MDF and made a shroud to fit over the back of the speaker, as well as a spacer to account for the speaker offset.

I then put the door trim back on to make it look stock.

With the tweeters, I found the dash quite a good spot with a modded grill in place(see pic).

Because of the particular shape Magna's have which reflects the rear 6*9 speakers into the front windscreen and back, I found that attenuation of the high frequencies from the rear speakers affected the front sound stage greatly and helped reduce harmonic distortions.

As I still have the plans, I'd be happy to make another set for anyone else with a TF magna with roll up windows (dunno if other models are different), or help with any questions they have about them.

I do recommend completly baffling off the door panel with a further application of 3mm MDF for a massive improvement on mid bass. Also, that bitumen stinks bad so be prepared to drive around without the door trims for a couple of days while they air out.

Ummm... Iv'e just noticed this hasn't got much to do with the original question but hope I've helped anyways ;) More pics available...

http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/final deadening applied.jpg
http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/vinyl speaker pad and rear focal pads.jpg http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/Door trim comparison.jpg
http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/Tweeter install.jpg

Cool looks like a solid door. I got around to doing my baffles a few weeks ago, like mulgas. Also cut some out for thedifference.
Mine are good, but protrude into the doors with so much power going into the fronts. So I have to redesign them and reduce how far out they sit.

I found there is way too much separation on the dash, have you looked at kickpanel mounting instead.

Nah... I think I'll need help with that... (Pics please!!) and I've hidden the crossovers behind the kick panels already so....

A pic of the morels with the swivel mount and the Dynaudio's with a 5 minute job with bendable straps.

With the speaker excersion problem, have you looked at the inside of the door trim in the above pics? I've discarded the back grill plate and glued the front grill on to give it more room and open the area up a bit...

http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/LH door trim deadened.jpg

I think I'll have a go at the alternate tweeter positon. But I get the wife nagging at me to know what I'm up to whenever she smells resin. She's got me under her thumb a bit after I um... permanently installed a system with fibreglass in our last car.

yep did that ages ago lol

I removed the back but used the original screws to keep it in place.
Its because I used 12mm mdf for the large baffle (to replace the plastic then used another round baffle to sit the speaker in. I think I'll just get rid of the baffle but was also thinking of making an angle mount in the door using putty or fibreglass with the current mdf baffle. we'll have to see..

I've also done much the same as you. stinger roadkill inside and out of the door, sealed the door completely with 3mm. Inside of the door trims with sound off paint, diffuser pads behind the drivers, taped up the lock rods with electrical tape, mounted mids on mdf, deadened boot, parcel shelf and back seat...

I swear i need to do it all again though, the rattles eventually vibrate the car apart... :(

I think I'll have a go at the alternate tweeter positon. But I get the wife nagging at me to know what I'm up to whenever she smells resin. She's got me under her thumb a bit after I um... permanently installed a system with fibreglass in our last car.
I'm lucky to have a supportive girl, she buys me new toys to install :)

Wow... your a lucky man.. My wife is the main reason I installed all the deadening... I've cut out most of the outside noise but I can still hear her when she starts banging on the windscreen at me :rant:

Wow... your a lucky man.. My wife is the main reason I installed all the deadening... I've cut out most of the outside noise but I can still hear her when she starts banging on the windscreen at me :rant:
:bowrofl: Love it!
What other gear u running? amps subs headunit etc

Focal 165a fronts
Kenwood 6*9 rears
Pioneer 12 sub in ported enclosure
Pioneer H.U. with 50 stacker in the boot
enough sound deadening to negate lowering the vehicle
2 of the cheapest, ugliest amps that "Sentrek" ever made
Jaycar wiring

I'd love to hear the difference with the quality of your setup to see if it's worth the extra dosh...

AAAARGGGHH The Dread K word has been printed again !!!

Kenwood is fowl language, but the rest of your system makes up for it...

Yeah.... I think they were the biggest mistake I've made...I got them in a knee jerk reaction when I welded the voice coils of my stock 6*9s with my amp. I'm gonna see if I can find a focal 6*9 replacement when I can afford it. May post a WTB now actually...

"Too much Effort...When you choose High quality Speakers, they should sound Good mounted anywhere.. "

Sorry man, this is the first time ive read my post, and im sure people have paid you out heaps on this comment already but now its my turn.

That comment proves your ignorance man, if you still think thats true then you have a whole lot to learn about car audio.

A cheap pair of speakers can sound way better then an extremely expensive pair just because one is mounted good and the other crap.

The difference in having good mid bass and next to no mid bass all depends on the installation, and ive seen this first hand too many times myself.

In the case of tweeters the difference in the highs being so harsh they hurt your ear and sounding nice and smooth all depend were the speaker is placed aswell. This is MORE so in high quality gear then cheap stuff as cheap stuff doesnt have the edge.

You gotta be more carefull when driving a high powered car around a course then an old crap mobile. Not the other way round.

You shouldnt really make statements like that when you dont know what your talking about, thats why people are saying you think you know it all.

Sorry to crap on, but such a stupid comment needs to be adressed, sorry for coming across like I did but its gotta be said!

No offense meant, still friends?

"Too much Effort...When you choose High quality Speakers, they should sound Good mounted anywhere.. "

Sorry man, this is the first time ive read my post, and im sure people have paid you out heaps on this comment already but now its my turn.

That comment proves your ignorance man, if you still think thats true then you have a whole lot to learn about car audio.

A cheap pair of speakers can sound way better then an extremely expensive pair just because one is mounted good and the other crap.

The difference in having good mid bass and next to no mid bass all depends on the installation, and ive seen this first hand too many times myself.

In the case of tweeters the difference in the highs being so harsh they hurt your ear and sounding nice and smooth all depend were the speaker is placed aswell. This is MORE so in high quality gear then cheap stuff as cheap stuff doesnt have the edge.

You gotta be more carefull when driving a high powered car around a course then an old crap mobile. Not the other way round.

You shouldnt really make statements like that when you dont know what your talking about, thats why people are saying you think you know it all.

Sorry to crap on, but such a stupid comment needs to be adressed, sorry for coming across like I did but its gotta be said!

No offense meant, still friends?


S_tim_ulate beat you to it.. no prizes for runners up..

S_tim_ulate has :owned: me on more then one occasion..

I think Ascension you can answer all the car audio questions from now on.. your wisdom seems infinate..

Ay no need to be a smart ass bout it, im still farly new in this car audio stuff too, but ill help out where i can.

The only reason why Tim beat me to it, is cuz I only saw the thread now lol

[QUOTE=Benjames]

I have now reinstalled the FOCAL splits with Focal Plain chant (RRP $80) and a Dynamat Extreme Door Kit 4' which was halved for each door (RRP $60),with some foam and Dacron to the door panels, as well as applying almost 1L of KH bitumen deadener (RRP $36 for 4L) on each of the trims.



where did you get this stuff from..........can you paint it on in several layers

autobarn... yes as many layers as u want. more the merrier.

But it is not specifically for car audio, more a general automotive sound deadener. Still worth the price considering 1 litre of the good car audio spray on deadener is around $60.

Oh and I dont come on here to run around and prove people wrong, I just try and give people help and in the process I end up learning more myself.
Just seems a select few have an urge to answer every single topic with vague, uninformed 'dodgy brothers' answers. These are the very misconceptions that I spend half my time on AMC clearing up. (Although I must admit it has been getting better recently)

If people want to learn about this stuff then ask questions, do your research, learn some new things and save some money. But if people come on here just to inflate their ego's and get their post count up answering every question when they have little or no knowledge about it, please think before you press the 'submit reply' button and read over what you are writing. Think about how this will affect your reputation or other members hip pockets when they act on poor advice.

I dont know everything about car audio. If I don't know the answer I'll do some research or calculations. I dont sit here and make huge generalisations.

If you want to try and help someone out, but arent exactly sure, word your post in such a way that shows that. Put it in context. And don't state things as fact unless you know it to be that way.

Simple things like iirc afaik imho imo 4 letter acronyms for fks sake... Turns a condescending, know it all post into a useful one... and means that u will never be "pwn3d" as you people keep referring to it as. (i think it's spanish??) :P :confused:

Keep it re-al bruvvas - There's a lot of people here with a lot of knowledge from what I've seen, just a matter of conveying it better.

No hard feelings guys

Peace out

Tim

Oh and I dont come on here to run around and prove people wrong, I just try and give people help and in the process I end up learning more myself.
Just seems a select few have an urge to answer every single topic with vague, uninformed 'dodgy brothers' answers. These are the very misconceptions that I spend half my time on AMC clearing up. (Although I must admit it has been getting better recently)

If people want to learn about this stuff then ask questions, do your research, learn some new things and save some money. But if people come on here just to inflate their ego's and get their post count up answering every question when they have little or no knowledge about it, please think before you press the 'submit reply' button and read over what you are writing. Think about how this will affect your reputation or other members hip pockets when they act on poor advice.

I dont know everything about car audio. If I don't know the answer I'll do some research or calculations. I dont sit here and make huge generalisations.

If you want to try and help someone out, but arent exactly sure, word your post in such a way that shows that. Put it in context. And don't state things as fact unless you know it to be that way.
Simple things like iirc afaik imho imo 4 letter acronyms for fks sake... Turns a condescending, know it all post into a useful one... and means that u will never be "pwn3d" as you people keep referring to it as. (i think it's spanish??) :P :confused:


:clap:

A know exactly what/who you are talking about. Well said mate, well said :)

WHOA!!! Hey, just from personal experience I'd make sure that you can air the car out after applying the bitumen sound deadener, or remove the components that have been bitumened for at least a week!!!

The curing procsess takes a fair while and, as it contains "Metyl Ethyl Ketones" it's toxic. Some cool symptoms I found were itchy eyes, nausea and violent mood swings!!!

Let it cure out of the car. The Sound off paint will cure over night if you leave it outside.

autobarn... yes as many layers as u want. more the merrier.

But it is not specifically for car audio, more a general automotive sound deadener. Still worth the price considering 1 litre of the good car audio spray on deadener is around $60.

Oh and I dont come on here to run around and prove people wrong, I just try and give people help and in the process I end up learning more myself.
Just seems a select few have an urge to answer every single topic with vague, uninformed 'dodgy brothers' answers. These are the very misconceptions that I spend half my time on AMC clearing up. (Although I must admit it has been getting better recently)

If people want to learn about this stuff then ask questions, do your research, learn some new things and save some money. But if people come on here just to inflate their ego's and get their post count up answering every question when they have little or no knowledge about it, please think before you press the 'submit reply' button and read over what you are writing. Think about how this will affect your reputation or other members hip pockets when they act on poor advice.

I dont know everything about car audio. If I don't know the answer I'll do some research or calculations. I dont sit here and make huge generalisations.

If you want to try and help someone out, but arent exactly sure, word your post in such a way that shows that. Put it in context. And don't state things as fact unless you know it to be that way.

Simple things like iirc afaik imho imo 4 letter acronyms for fks sake... Turns a condescending, know it all post into a useful one... and means that u will never be "pwn3d" as you people keep referring to it as. (i think it's spanish??) :P :confused:

Keep it re-al bruvvas - There's a lot of people here with a lot of knowledge from what I've seen, just a matter of conveying it better.

No hard feelings guys

Peace out

Tim
i iz t3h l33t pwnz04 Ub3rr auDi0 k1ng of AMC!! bbowodown to me!!
\argg
:nuts:

sd iirc h lol juu pdasf fsdgsdfasdf

See what I mean... Now doesnt that come across better...

:P You fool!

yer, i was trying to say u should sound deaden your doors.

WHOA!!! Hey, just from personal experience I'd make sure that you can air the car out after applying the bitumen sound deadener, or remove the components that have been bitumened for at least a week!!!

The curing procsess takes a fair while and, as it contains "Metyl Ethyl Ketones" it's toxic. Some cool symptoms I found were itchy eyes, nausea and violent mood swings!!!


car already smells any new smell should be an improvement damn leaking window

Maybe Speaker spacers made from MDF on top of the MDF baffle ??

I remember seeing an install somewhere in my early years where the MDF Spacers were shaped pointing up on an Angle to fire through the Stock hole?? it does seem like a tonne of custom work and a bit of money ????

i know exactly how to do this.........would do it if i had the tools oh wait dad is a carpenter i do have the tools.........will do a detailed how to when i do it, wont be till mid november when i have finished year 12 though. most of you car audio guys would know how neway, just something i wanna do........

btw whats the thinnest mdf u can buy cos u need this


who says u dont learn nothing at school lol pity they dont teach wiring car stereo's cos i would be set otherwise :cry:

One large piece of mdf to replace the plastic and another baffle, cut the large piece to fit the baffle snug inside. Then place in door to test fit.

Remove the grille from the door and bolt in the large mdf piece, with the ring baffle inside the door. As i dont think it would fit through the speaker hole.

Place the mdf baffle inside the cutout ring and find the best angle that will fit in the door, (u could possibly make another baffle the exact size of the cone, and as thick as the speakers xmax and stick this onto the baffle to emulate the speaker at full excursion. (you dont want the speaker excurting into the grille (trust me it sounds horrid)

Once the ring is in place, insert chocks of wood using whatever u have to to keep the angle set while u take the door trim off.
Remove the mdf pieice with the ring still inserted.

Secure the chock properly. Then use either moulding putty or fibreglass to fill in the gaps.
Put some speaker sealant around the edges (or blu tack to ensure a good seal and there u r

Well thats how I was thinking of doing mine, will let you know if it works :redface:

pity they dont teach wiring car stereo's cos i would be set otherwise :cry:
Ur at the wrong school ;)

Im tutoring car audio and accessory fitting at a Tafe part time.

Ur at the wrong school ;)

Im tutoring car audio and accessory fitting at a Tafe part time.


Thats why I am waiting for you to do it.. So then you can stick a "How to " up and all will be explained with Photo's and a Full Thesis on the advantages..

Fair enough,
so far for a simple baffle. (no angle)

By a sheet of 12mm mdf $10 for a huge sheet from hardware store
Paint one side of it using any paint and let it dry, (as inside the door gets wet. this will stop the wood from rotting.
Get the plastic baffle, trace around it onto the board. Not the indentations on the baffle where the curves of the door and the bolts for the door are, cut these out totally. So the piece will sit flush.

Line up the holes against the plastic baffle, mark and drill using a small drill. (will be the guide for the screw.)

Grab one of the screws that went into the plastic, notice how large it is, u'll need to get a larger drill bit and drill out the holes you've already drilled leaving a few mm, so the screw will be able to reach from the thick 12mm into the door, (and sit countersunk) with enough wood left so it doesnt go right through the mdf. use a bench drill if you've got one to get the depth right otherwise do it by hand.

Trace around the inside hole for the speaker off the plastic onto the mdf (line it up properly). Grab ur midbass driver and measure the radius from the centre to the mounting surface of the speaker (not too small as it wont sit flush, not too large as you wont have anything to screw into.

With a compass draw the circle that you will cut out for the speaker making sure it fits inside the previous circle u traced.

get a jigsaw and cut out the shapes. use a drill to drill into the speaker section and jigsaw around it.

The rest is self explanatory...

Peace

Tim

Doesn't the factory White plastic have a Build out already on it ?? so replacing it with a flat peice of MDF, would this not cause mounting depth to be reduced needing additional spacers??

I am really tempted to do an MDF replacement for the plastic Baffle but don't want to head off and find out that my woofers will no longer fit as the mounting depth has now been reduced ??

If you pull it out the plastic doesnt actally sit out, it has a slight angle, but only protrudes a little bit at the base iirc.

Mounting them flat, may result in the basket sitting further in the door, but only the larger drivers have issues touching the window. (eg hertz hsk)

If you pull it out the plastic doesnt actally sit out, it has a slight angle, but only protrudes a little bit at the base iirc.

Mounting them flat, may result in the basket sitting further in the door, but only the larger drivers have issues touching the window. (eg hertz hsk)


Al and I did this on mine, luckily the kickers dont have a deep basket, it took bout 1.5 hours in total to do. And with good results. Deeper mid bass and alot punchier. although if i get the polks these will be up for grabs to whoever wants them.

If you pull it out the plastic doesnt actally sit out, it has a slight angle, but only protrudes a little bit at the base iirc.

Mounting them flat, may result in the basket sitting further in the door, but only the larger drivers have issues touching the window. (eg hertz hsk)


Tim This is what is in my front Doors now... Sorry for the German langauge.. as you will see they are pretty chunky..http://www.ciao.de/Magnat_Xtract_216__198256

Couldnt find the mounting depth anywhere? U know it?

I know my old Hertz HSK mids would just touch the window plastic when u wound down the window. They were ~7 cm deep.

I don't think u'll have a problem for anything under that. If you do have a problem u could just space it out with a thin baffle.

not sure.. But as they are now they just touch the Windows on the Plastic Baffle...

I may do this MDF mounting thing when I down size to the Magnat Bullpowers as they are only a 6 inch Woofer not a 6.5 as these are..
( The Currrent ones work Great for a woofer with a 3mm hole in it courtesy of a screwdriver and a sneeze.)

I own a set of Boston Acoustic FS60s which are a 6.5inch woofer and tweeter. Anyone had any experience installing one of these as i had them in pods for my old car and would much rather an easy hassle free swap to the magna. I cant be bothered messing about with mdf like i did with the pods for my last car so im guessing its an easy swap with these plastic holders for the stockers. Plus any suggestions for the tweeters i was thinking the plastic circles on the dash (for ease of use) but i fear that is too high and will create too much treble.

wow... I had a pair of them in my previous car and loved those Bostons!!! I'm afraid that they are slightly larger in diameter than the OEM's but they are shallow enough to mount without hitting the door panel behind.... It's a shame that you aren't gonna mount them in properly because they have a powerful midbass response (from memory) and I've found it hard to reproduce it with my focals....

The treble may be a hard one to work out, cause of their high crossover point (again from memory), they may suffer a blurred image if they are mounted too far from the midbass driver. I think the kick panel idea may suit these splits better but, as always get drunk and sit there all day mounting the tweeters in different positions till you get the right spot or give up all together lol

haha i dont wanna do that i just want a simple solution dammit lol Yeah midbass is great on the bostons poor in the lower bass department but so clear and punchy on mids. Can someone just show me the magical be all and end all postion for the tweeters. (lol i know its not possible but i have little time nowadays).

Tweeter positioning is a Personal Taste, some like the Tweeters mounted down low but angled up so the Point of Source is closely matched , others like me like them higher..
Others like S_tim_ulate use Multi Tweeters to achieve the best..

Ur at the wrong school ;)

Im tutoring car audio and accessory fitting at a Tafe part time.

hey, i was just thinking.....how many of ur subjects will be employed by *insert well known dodgey brother's car audio installation places* ???

can i join? I'll be disruptive and throw sh!t at u in class lol :badgrin:

I own a set of Boston Acoustic FS60s which are a 6.5inch woofer and tweeter. Anyone had any experience installing one of these as i had them in pods for my old car and would much rather an easy hassle free swap to the magna. I cant be bothered messing about with mdf like i did with the pods for my last car so im guessing its an easy swap with these plastic holders for the stockers. Plus any suggestions for the tweeters i was thinking the plastic circles on the dash (for ease of use) but i fear that is too high and will create too much treble.
I've got the same speakers in my TH. I have the tweeters mounted in the kickpanels, facing the seats. That sounds all wrong, but believe me it sounds great, and the stage height is much higher than you'd think. It's greta stealth too - the 6" under the original covers, and the tweeters are tucked down where you can't even see them without bending down.

Thanks for the info chief when i get the time ill pop em in in those positions where have you got your crossovers stashed if you dont mind me asking?

Magical spot that I've found. Not the best in terms of SQ as it could be deeper, but practical as it wont get kicked too much. And still maintains line of sight with passenger and driver.

the 2nd pic there you can do urself. get some builders strap, put ur head under the dash and notice there are two bolts on either side. Undo bolts, drill a hole big enough to go through the bolts, and mount the strap to it, then bend it down and you have full flexibility of the tweet. They bounce around a bit, so mount the other end of the strap to the other bolt.

Otherwise you could cut a hole through the plastic/carpet big enough for ur tweeter but I hate doing damage to my car. I've only had to drill two tiny holes so far.

Peace

Tim

I got some heavy duty extra wide double sided tape and stuck the LH crossover high up the front passangers footwell out of sight and reach, and the RH side crossover fitted perfectly behind the fuse box!
The wiring was all neatened up btw! :)

http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OuedWBnCwmseXVHmZJl9Z5BYnsB uBtJBYxAfCgkazT-tjYkcRmfPbBm4dEauKkGIfqoGgn9P4SbDyRY1o0O65z-qzwHyRo-ZHZ3M7UTlWZM6
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4OkItmTexhNT3yN-GWv4jaTchF0uyHTtZj7GqvcceIh7IMVwRqgKH-8MRnBi4kt_2Ih6N5DIWSxhKWj60nKJKMG9DEdbTFwVsfH5Ufvt 9XDk2

The brackets for my tweets:
Just made it from a bit of flat aluminium and screwed the tweeter bracket to it. No drilling panels or anything. I used an existing screw to mount the bracket in the kick panel.
http://storage.msn.com/x1pqWXU6hqJVr5wEoJ58mI4Ouyb_uPKFEc0UP4zJcxDWl3KjgL 31An89GBQ2MVb2M62PUMa31BaYDcrM7ITdegh0mPPcGm32Og_2 xifnGUN_psAYooljVpm36FOryHCvsNm

Cheers
Pete

Hey s_tim_ulate...sorry if this has already been asked before, but can I ask why you guys are mounting your tweeters so low? What are the pros and cons of mousing them there instead of up higher?

Ummmm.... wow where you you start.... I think S_TIM_ULATE has talked about this earlier in this thread....

The big physical difference is the distance of the tweeters to the listener. If one speaker is closer than another then obviously the sound will get to the listener earlier on one side as well. This is particularly noticable with tweeters because they play freqs that have such short wavelengths (less than 1 foot). This can cause one to sound louder due to proximity, as well as creating harmonic distortions by playing freqs in and out of phase and therefore confusing your ears to where the intened sounds should be.

Another problem is that high frequencies are directional, and therefore a rainbow effect may occur if your mounting position is lower or higher than your ears (as explained by s_tim_ulate), however this can be overcome by various methods.

Also think about sun exposure before mounting your tweeters on the dash as this will affect the longevity and sound reproduction due to heat (silk dome tweeters are quite succeptable).

Hope I've helped.... :think:

Yep I've talked about it a few times before - Path length difference, and separation of mid and high frequencies are the main reasons.
Other small side effects can include the harsher reflections that occur from a tweeter bouncing off glass. The fact that when a sound bounces off the windshield you will hear the sound from the tweet and the reflection from the windscreen. (this can also cause phase issues)

Ur ears cant pinpoint the vertical plane as well as the horizontal, so your brain will assume the sound is coming from head height.

But separation is the biggest problem, if you can get your midrange/tweets up above the dash then it wouldnt be so bad and any path length issues 'could' be solved with time alignment and so on. But this is exxy in itself.

Peace

Tim

I got mine mounted here..
Won't get kicked, Not overly bright and a well projected sound image.. Not too one sided
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13951

Best of all no holes on the interior Blu Tac does the job fine.. The Cross over is water proof so is mounted inside the door and secured so it won't Vibrate or color the Bass of the woofer.. and no reflection off the Glass Both Passenger and Driver get equal amounts of treble ranging from Subtle Triangles to full on Glass smashing which has you checking the Windows all around for cracks and shatters... Does the Job but won't win you SQ points..

Yep I've talked about it a few times before - Path length difference, and separation of mid and high frequencies are the main reasons.
Other small side effects can include the harsher reflections that occur from a tweeter bouncing off glass. The fact that when a sound bounces off the windshield you will hear the sound from the tweet and the reflection from the windscreen. (this can also cause phase issues)

Ur ears cant pinpoint the vertical plane as well as the horizontal, so your brain will assume the sound is coming from head height.

But separation is the biggest problem, if you can get your midrange/tweets up above the dash then it wouldnt be so bad and any path length issues 'could' be solved with time alignment and so on. But this is exxy in itself.

Peace

Tim

Hmmm....I may have to think about relocating my tweeters then :think:

Use Blu tac and your ears to experiment the best sounding position for your ears...

Wack a bit of Blu tac on the back of the Tweeters, angle them to where you think they sound good and Bob is your Mother's Brother...
secure them into place...

Gotta love that search button.

I am currently in the process of doing front splits,rears and HU and the info in this post is bloody brilliant.
The info on mdf and sound proofing is number 1. I just want to improve my system over standard so I've got pioneer 6x9 in rear(fitted), pioneer splits in front (to fit), clarion head unit (mP3)(to fit), and a clarion 200W amp(to fit) for the splits.
One day I want to round it off with a sub.

Anyway just wanted to thank you guys for helping a novice re-think the installation.
:thumbsup: :bowdown:

Good to see mate
Check out http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24273&highlight=angled+baffles

As well for some more info on baffles... But anything u need has probably been covered. If you have any weird questions ask them instead of scratching ur head :cool:

Peace

Tim

i got 6" speakers in front of my car....gettin new ones soon

:)

Thought I'd drag this old thread up to the top again... It's got a lot of general info on mounting front splits, deadening and a few pics that are still relevant to a lot of ppl... Kinda saves a new thread for questions and answers that are already here... It's got sage advice from "s_tim_ulate", plus as an added bonus we see "ascension" get flamed :bowrofl: ...

WOW!!! I read a previous post on this thread where I stated the gear I had installed...
Man... I didn't realise how far I've come with my install since then.

ATM I'm running a set of Boston Z6s up front, being amped from the latest and greatest PPI amp (A1000/2), another set of Z6's in the back, with 2 Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 subs being run off another pair of A1000/2s. All of this is being controlled by a Pioneer DEH-P8650MP.

I still have the old CDX-P5000 Pioneer stacker, and I've often thought of getting rid of the old "breadbox", but I think it must be one of the last working "51 CD" stackers in existence...

I'm just about to pull my doors apart yet again, this time to put both sets of Z6's up front (just for ****s n giggles) and thought I'd ask for some internals of the door (pre-deadened), then I remembered this post.....:)

Wow, old thread... cbf reading it all but I wasnt flaming Ascension at all (I assume that's what you're referring to) Ascensions on the ball from what I know. Most people probably know who I was having a dig at... nevertheless water under the bridge.

Peace

Tim

Wow, old thread... cbf reading it all but I wasnt flaming Ascension at all (I assume that's what you're referring to) Ascensions on the ball from what I know. Most people probably know who I was having a dig at... nevertheless water under the bridge.

Peace

Tim
Nah!!!! It was Magnat and Ascension havin a tiff... All tongue-in-cheek of course!!! lol

Gone off Car Audio..

RC Drifting is my life now..

Gone off Car Audio..

RC Drifting is my life now..

Yeah.... Ya get to a point where you think... "Hmmmm, its gonna take a lot of time, money, space in my car to get any better", and the results get only marginally better as you get into the higher kinda system installs... I freak out now when I see ppl drive past the house a little slower than usual, because I wonder if they are gonna steal my stuff... The sound system is now worth twice the value of the car!!!

i got6 inches fit fine

I squeezed 9" in there :)