Hey everyone


basically i want to know would this amp be fine to run my stereo on

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0428&CATID=24&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=595

i havent actually got one but im looking at prices
What does class D stand for?

Baqscially it would just run 4 speakers and no sub

D is the class of the amp...

Class A = exxy, very high quality and very low output, lots of heat and very inneficient.

Class AB = MOst common for car audio. These are used to run full range 20hz->22khz
ok efficiency, clean signal for most applications

Class D = (Digital?) Class D amps should only be used on subs, they sacrifice quality for efficiency. As such they can produce lots of power without putting as much strain on ur electrics as an equivalent Class AB. I personally dont use Class D on my subs, but it is common and practical to use Class D amps(mono) for subs as u will not notice the extra distortion. (eg 0.1% total harmonic distortion for class AB, 1% THD for class D)

This distortion will become even less obvious through sub frequencies

Peace

Tim

is it better to undersupply speakers e.g 150 per channel into 200w speakers? rather than have a 200w per channel amp into 200w speakers

Either way, if you don't run the amps past their dynamic range, or if you don't push the speakers beyond rms or a bit higher then nothing should break.

Things break when you force them to do stuff the stresses them for long periods of time. Or if you plug it in wrong.

would you guys say its worth buying one of these amps for a basic cheapish system im thinking probably 200 front and 200 for rears so i dont wanna spend massive amounts of money on my stereo (i got quoted for insurance today of 1900 bucks at AAMI just car was only 1200 mums getting it for me for 700 lol :S)

300th POst :D

I would spend as much money as i can on a good deck because thats whats going to be the source of your sound so if you are going to go for cheap speakers, amps and sub, make sure you have a good deck so it doesnt sound to bad.

response amps rock ay, i got a 4x100RMS and it is awesome. eventually gonna get another one. i say go 4 it

Ive got a 2x150RMS running some 120WRMS Morels and have had no problems with it!. They are fantastic amps for the money. Id say go for it. If its only to run 4 speakers on though with no sb, I'd got the 4x100W or two 2x150W amps...

Cheers
Pete

who said anything about cheap speakers? ha ha im just one of those anti brand people i would prefer to buy noname if its better. Just say i bought top quality fronts these wotn be affected by the quality of the amp will they? it ont mess up the signal or anything?

who said anything about cheap speakers? ha ha im just one of those anti brand people i would prefer to buy noname if its better.

Well in that case go out and buy Morel's high-end series :)

who said anything about cheap speakers? ha ha im just one of those anti brand people i would prefer to buy noname if its better. Just say i bought top quality fronts these wotn be affected by the quality of the amp will they? it ont mess up the signal or anything?

I doubt jay car amps are that **** to mess with your signal to a noticable difference,

cool so i tihnk it will end up with jaycar amp, 2 channels front to speakers 2 channels bridged to sub what you all think?

Yeah just be careful with the sub as often the Jaycar amps shyt themselves under a decect load and happily clip. I found this out the hard way with a mate driving my 12.5lf pretty hard off the 2x150WRMS amp ( bridged ) and not long after the sub had a totally burnt coil. Now that sub can handle 1000WRMS so yeah just be careful. For the 4x100WRMS if you bridge ch 3 & 4 for 380WRMS get a sub rated at a bit less, say 250-300WRMS or with the new 2x150WRMS I wouldn't go past a sub rated 400WRMS ( the 12.5lf is rated at 400WRMS ) for trouble free cruzing :) .

The Jaycar amps also demand a medium - large amount or current to operate, 56A for the 2x150WRMS amp, that is a fair bit considering the SRx2 pulls 15A for 65WRMS x 2, 170WRMS x 1 and the SRx2s pulls 35A for 180WRMS x 2, 600WRMS x 1.

Im afraid the Jaycar doesnt have the balls to run my new G5, you can hear the distortion at certain Hz and it just wants more power... but for the money the are ok. Soon to upgrade to an Audison SRx2s for 600 clean WRMS :D

In the end the Jaycars are much better $ for watt than most brands and would choose them over most brands but for a little more money you can have similar power but with less THD, more damping factor, higher slew rate, and better xovers.

Anyone know the damping factor of the new range of amps? Old ones where around 130 but they dont mention the new ones..... :doubt:

would the issue happen if say you had two amps one for speakers and one for the subs? Possibly buy a class D one for the sub

would the issue happen if say you had two amps one for speakers and one for the subs? Possibly buy a class D one for the sub

It doesnt matter, i have the Audison running the front and the jaycar running the sub. Class D amp is different but have had no experience with it. Apparently it puts out 1000WRMS @ 1ohm 14.4V.. so yeah. You could use a 4channel amp no worries, just dont expect to push a sub with a higher rated power to hard without it clipping. :D

yeah i dont really want a loud sub just something that sounds good and tastefull not those stupid ones that are louder than any other part of the music, i want it to enhance not over power. What sorta size sub would you reccomend for this application?

yeah i dont really want a loud sub just something that sounds good and tastefull not those stupid ones that are louder than any other part of the music, i want it to enhance not over power. What sorta size sub would you reccomend for this application?

12inch, 380WRMS that you would get out of the 4 channel Jaycar is enough to run most subs at moderate volumes. The G5 running off 450WRMS from the jaycar is easily overpowered by the FS-60's running at 65WRMS each and the bass is a little loose and uncontrolled at higher output even though it is in a sealed box.

Definately a 12inch that works well in a smallish sealed box like even the Pioneer 306c ( rated at 400WRMS is a bit far fetched ) or the Boston G2 or Hertz HX300 :D