Hey

I have an '03 KJ2 (5spd tippy) with 19,000km on the clock and i notice when doing highway speeds and then slowing, and/or stopping on accelaeration that the motor revs (wich i think i have seen people call "flaring") out between gears. What would cause this and has anyone else had this same problem. One thought i have had is could this be just the tranny adjusting to highway driving and this be the transition to more "stop start" driving pattern (does that make sense?). I have also noticed that on a slight incline going slowly, when you put your foot down just a little it seems to skip and then jump/slip into gear with a kind of jerk, any thoughts???

I have an 03 TJ and it does exactly the same thing. I had a mitsu repair guy drive it and see what the deal was, and he said it was normal - so i dont know....

That didnt really help did it lol

Hey

. One thought i have had is could this be just the tranny adjusting to highway driving and this be the transition to more "stop start" driving pattern (does that make sense?). I have also noticed that on a slight incline going slowly, when you put your foot down just a little it seems to skip and then jump/slip into gear with a kind of jerk, any thoughts???

Yeah my 01 Sports does this as well and i'm pretty sure its the computer sorting things out because it only happens maybe once or twice.

Mine flares changing up from 1st to 2nd when light throttle is applied. So maybe it's normal however I do find it slightly annoying sometimes :neutral:

its called a FWD V6 mitsubishi automatic gearbox! they are generally crap. Mine doesnt do that atm, but it no doubt will before too long.. theres not alot you can do about it unfortunately, the problem is in the design and not your individual gearbox

Taking it to get an automatic transmition service may provide a temporary fix

When i had mine VRX i had my gearbox replaced and 3 flashes of the ECU.

Make sure they have given you the latest Flash update. If this doesnt fix the problem, id be asking for a new gearbox.

You shouldnt get any surging between gears or hard/jerky gear changes.

Look to also fit an aftermarket auto transmission cooler to the vehicle. This will reduce the ehat of the transmission oil and reduce the degree of flaring and make the transmission more stable.
THey aren't expensive, easy to fit and work wonders. Doesn't fix the issue with the car so much as it makes it more reliable, lasts longer and reduces its ability to create the situation of flaring etc.

Hi GTVi guy

I agree with Mitsiman on the oil cooler. In my case I first tried a friction and temp-reducing additive from Canada at 40K's and it transformed the Tx entirely - now has crisp changes.
You might find some similar Tx products off the shelf ( Nulon etc ) :cool:

You shouldnt get any surging between gears or hard/jerky gear changes.

I am getting a harsh change down from third to second when using the sports mode on my KJ series II. It kind of thuds into second at any speed above twenty K's.

The change from third to second is nice (engine revs perfectly etc).

Its starting to bug me.

Is this normal?

I am getting a harsh change down from third to second when using the sports mode on my KJ series II. It kind of thuds into second at any speed above twenty K's.

The change from third to second is nice (engine revs perfectly etc).

Its starting to bug me.

Is this normal?

I've heard the 2nd gear in a 5spd tippy is very close to 1st in a 4sp (which I have). If this is the case - I can relate, and I reckon it's because that gear is so much shorter than the next gear (3rd in your case) and the 'engine breaking' force is so much more noticable.

My workaround - avoid down shifting the tippy unless absolutely necessary. Alternatively - carry a little throttle when you down shift and it's alot smoother.

And on the topic of the original post - the trans in my car was playing up something shocking when I brought it at 40,000 - got the transmission fluid flushed and renewed, and haven't been able to fault it since.

A warning - I would not recomend adding any friction modifiers or agents to the tranmission oil. Mitsubishi has specific oils for there transmissions and the adding of altenrative agents could disrupt this and do further damage to the box which woudl void your warranty immedietly.

Flushign and changing of fluid does make a large change because there is no factory cooler, the oil does get very worn, thin and burnt very quickly. when doing the auto trans cooler, do the oil flush at the same time. You will eb surprised how much difference it makes.

As has been said, changing/flushing transmission will fix this. But probably only for 6 months, it will slowly start to come back. I would also look to install a tranny cooler. Anyone got a DIY with pics on installing one? I should also do this before my next auto service.

Peace

Tim

Be very careful when choosing Transmission oil or addictive. Genuine mitsu oil must be use or it will stuff up the trans. Lots of people complaining about weak mitsu transmission in the past because they didn't use Genuine transmission oil.

Look to also fit an aftermarket auto transmission cooler to the vehicle. This will reduce the ehat of the transmission oil and reduce the degree of flaring and make the transmission more stable.
THey aren't expensive, easy to fit and work wonders. Doesn't fix the issue with the car so much as it makes it more reliable, lasts longer and reduces its ability to create the situation of flaring etc.
:stoopid: I only get dumbass gear changes when in 1st and I take off and the car in front doesn't move as fast as I am and I gas off. The car selects 2nd just as I regas and a very rough gearchange is the result :(

I've have d!ckheads ask me if my tranny cooler was an intercooler for my turbo. :weird:

Hi Guys

I agree that you should take care when choosing additives - the Quality brands are designed for this purpose and carry appropriate labels. I added it at 40K to the original Mitsu type Tx oil and found it made a noticeable difference - and is still good at 80K.

The main problem is that the engines in the later 3rd Gens run very high temp, which means the Tx does as well.

According to the W'shop manual fourth gear is controlled by a solenoid located inside the transaxle, and the coolant temp.sensor via the engine ECU.

To reduce the load on the engine and the transaxle, the ECU prevents fourth gear being selected until the engine coolant reaches normal operating temp.

The Tx also incorporates a Tx overheating warning via the neutral indicator lamp.

Cheers, Barry :cool: