Hi im thinking of getting my cars auto checked and just wondering what it cost to have mitsubishi to?
1. Do a check
2. To change the auto fluid
3. To change the bands etc.
thanks

My KJ went in for full "powerflush" (thats when they flush it with the engine running, using about 12L of tranny oil) when we got it earlier this yr. Cost $220 I think.

KJ only did 41,000 by then and Mitsu dealer didn't recommend doing it until 100,000
but its a personal policy of mine to change all fluids in any used car we buy.
Cheap insurance.


Just static changing the oil 6L is about $130-150.

Discovered KJ don't have a filter for the tranny; older cars may have a spin-on unit.

I had mine done a few months ago. It cost about $200. My car had only done about 20K kms but I noticed a significant difference.

Whilst checking the service manual I couldn't find where they actually change the tranny fluid. A mechanic friend recommended i change it and that I get it done every 20-40K.

I had mine done a few months ago. It cost about $200. My car had only done about 20K kms but I noticed a significant difference.

Whilst checking the service manual I couldn't find where they actually change the tranny fluid. A mechanic friend recommended i change it and that I get it done every 20-40K.

Its in the service manual on the right hand side under additional items - from memory its at 90,000klms but yeah got mine done at 50k cost about $150 or a bit more.

I had mine done a few months ago. It cost about $200. My car had only done about 20K kms but I noticed a significant difference.

Whilst checking the service manual I couldn't find where they actually change the tranny fluid. A mechanic friend recommended i change it and that I get it done every 20-40K.
Did they check your bands etc . for that price

No point physically checking bands, all they do is take it for a test drive.

If auto is changing weird they can purge the ECU with their MUTII or whatever system
and get it to relearn your driving.


Looks like they took my car for 10km drive when they did my tranny.

Went in again the previous week for routine service, odo shows no big drive then.

How do they check the bands?

Thanks for that Magnette i will get them to check it out.

go to an idependent service centre they do the same job at a lower cost. i took mine in when it done 55000 and then had a few problems with it when it came back from the mitsu service, took it to cooper automotive in hobart for the 100000 kay and it goes better than when mitsu did it, my 100000 serviced cost me 637.00 dollars and if the mitsu had of done it it was 1196.00 dollars you do the figures but their are better place then the dealers.:D

my 100000 serviced cost me 637.00 dollars and if the mitsu had of done it it was 1196.00 dollars you do the figures but their are better place then the dealers.:D
Did Cooper do your timing belt for you too at 100,000?

Did Cooper do your timing belt for you too at 100,000?
:D yep

Not a bad price then!! :clap:

My KJ went in for full "powerflush" (thats when they flush it with the engine running, using about 12L of tranny oil) when we got it earlier this yr. Cost $220 I think.

KJ only did 41,000 by then and Mitsu dealer didn't recommend doing it until 100,000
but its a personal policy of mine to change all fluids in any used car we buy.
Cheap insurance.


Just static changing the oil 6L is about $130-150.

Discovered KJ don't have a filter for the tranny; older cars may have a spin-on unit.
If an auto box does not have a good filter I would recomend short interval fluid changes.
Also I think the reason they recommend a flush is because the torque convertor holds a lot of fluid. In some cars it is possible to drain the convertor but it sounds like the Mitsi box does not have this feature.
Someone asked about bands, one way of telling if you have problems with slipping bands is to sniff the old fluid. If it has a burnt odour to it then there are problems.
Some luxury cars run synthetic fluid which is designed to be never changed:nuts: .
Lastly it is also recomended to get maximum life out of a auto to not hammer it when cold.
Really lastly it is a good idea when looking at buying a secondhand car to not buy one with a tow bar because towing stuff puts an enourmous strain on the drive train. Especially something big like a boat.

True about the cold driving, when my TJ is cold is doesn't shift till higher RPM which is what happens when u have no tranny oil same sorta thing, oil is only good when its hot!
Thats why i use tippy when its cold and make it shift at around 2krpm because high revs are not good for either box or motor in the cold :)

True about the cold driving, when my TJ is cold is doesn't shift till higher RPM which is what happens when u have no tranny oil same sorta thing, oil is only good when its hot!
Thats why i use tippy when its cold and make it shift at around 2krpm because high revs are not good for either box or motor in the cold :)
No I don't think that is the reason, modern electronically controlled engines do this to heat the cat up quicker.
High revs are actually better when the motor is cold because it has to work less harder. It's like a wheelbarrow, they are hard to get going when full but once you got them moving it's easier (this is called inertia).
It's easier to get a wheelbarrow up a small incline if you got a bit of speed up rather than trying to slowly push it up a slope. Same with a motor, it has more power when it is reving higher and therfore is less stressed.
A good example is my Mum's driveway which is failrly steep and long, I am forever telling her to put the auto in L/1 when she is going up her drive (don't think she ever remembers) because halfway up her drive it levels off a bit and usally her car will upshift there and then have to torque it's way up the rest of the drive. She used to have a TM elite and I think she went through two or three transmissions in about 4-5 years.

Ok i understand now what i was getting at was that i thought 99% of engine wear comes from driving cold, thats why taxis with 700,000k's run like your everyday car with 100,000k because they are always hot.

...Someone asked about bands, one way of telling if you have problems with slipping bands is to sniff the old fluid. If it has a burnt odour to it then there are problems....
Fresh fluid is pretty bright red, it goes browner/darker with age.
It'll be a dark brown before you can sniff any burning...