Does anyone know what kind of extra power I can be expecting with an rpw intake plenum and pacemakers on top of what I have. (CAI, cat and muffler)

Not off the top of my head, but hopefully by end of september I'll be posting up dyno sheets for my TJII exec auto with K&N Pod w/CAI, EZYboy T/B, RPW headers, Cat back zorst Rising rate FPR, RPW plennum & thermo block spacer. I'm hoping to get 140Kw+ atw with the above mods. I'm getting a baseline dyno tomorrow (cars bog stock under the bonnet at the moment) for comparison.

By all accounts - extractors are only good for an extra 3-4Kw on a moderately modded car, and the thread with details of the test car for the RPW plennum (w/ internal ram tubes) quoted before / after dyno graphes showing around 20% increase in power from memory.

140kw at the wheels? how much is that at the fly? I'm not very familiar with power outputs at the wheel. Is there a conversion equation or table for this?

140kw at the wheels? how much is that at the fly? I'm not very familiar with power outputs at the wheel. Is there a conversion equation or table for this?

No conversion equation that I know of as it depends on the individual drivetrain and how efficient it is. Amount of drivetrain loss will differ between autos and manuals in most cars - especially our magnas.

Only way to know how much the drivetrain of an individual car loses is to test it on a chasis dyno (engine output), then test on a roller or hub dyno to see how much power is getting to the wheels.

If you dyno'd the car completely stock - you could theoretically calculate the drive train loss of your individual car as a percentage by comparing the ATW figure with the manufacturers stated output (155Kw in my case). You could then use this to approximate the flywheel output of the car based on subsequent dyno results. Having said that - roller dyno figures will differ for the same car, same dyno, same settings from day to day - and possibly even on the same day, so it would only give you an idea of your new flywheel figure..

At the end of the day - you'll find just about everyone you'll talk to will talk in terms of KW at the wheels. Not many people go to the trouble of dynoing their engine (can't imagine it's cheap).

FYI. Just got back from getting my completely stock (not for much longer :badgrin: ) TJII auto dyno'd. I was hoping for 120kW ATW. I wasn't far off........ recorded 116.2kW.

Based on that figure and assuming I'm still putting out 155kW at the engine (58,000kms old) that's almost spot on 25% drivetrain loss - which sounds about right for a FWD with a notoriously lossy auto box. At a guess I'd say the manual box would be good for only 18-20% drivetrain loss - which in the worst case is 124kW atw. Bear in mind this is purely speculative and based on only 1 dyno run, but I hope it gives you an idea.