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Manual
08-09-2003, 03:03 PM
Hey All,

My uncles Auto TS - when starting from cold blows a cloud of blue/white smoke out of the exhaust - quite a large smoke from what he said.

I remember reading about this previously - but can someone just jump and tell me what was the cause??

it is an auto V6 is that makes a difference that he is trying to sell!! (anyone want a bright red one great condition!!)

Cheers

Manual

MAGNA
08-09-2003, 03:12 PM
Mine does the same thing, Valve stem seals. It also does it when you take off (a minor bit). I'm running some slightly thicker oil and I think its marginally better.

I want to know what Mitsiman (Dave) thinks though.

SYNRGY
08-09-2003, 03:17 PM
could be rings????

Killbilly
08-09-2003, 04:39 PM
Yeah mine and TZA's had the same problem..it's a common thing with older TR/TS V6's

Valve stem collets I think they're called, anyway it's the seals around the valves that wear away.

It's a bit expensive to fix I think, but worth fixing

Manual
08-09-2003, 04:41 PM
how expensive and is it a case of take it to the mechanic??

Manual

Madmagna
08-09-2003, 04:42 PM
This is from the Valve Stem seals. It is a job that can be done with the heads on if you know what your doing if not it is a head off job.
What happens is the oil that is in the heads slowly seeps past the seals and sits on the valves, when you first start the motor you get that puf which is the little bit of oil burning. If you were to leave the motor idling for say 10 to 25 mins then give a rev you will poss get the same thing.

Manual
08-09-2003, 04:45 PM
ok - i would have no idea what i am doing then so i spose he can pay some one to do it for a change!! hha

Cheers all!! any idea on a cost??

Manual

MiG
08-09-2003, 05:02 PM
This is from the Valve Stem seals. It is a job that can be done with the heads on if you know what your doing if not it is a head off job.
What happens is the oil that is in the heads slowly seeps past the seals and sits on the valves, when you first start the motor you get that puf which is the little bit of oil burning. If you were to leave the motor idling for say 10 to 25 mins then give a rev you will poss get the same thing.


That's exactly what I get, including the smoke after extended idling.

Madmagna
08-09-2003, 05:40 PM
Which engine do you have Mig.
I have all the gear here to do it and do not mind giving a hand if you want to get this done sometime. PM or e-mail me if your interested.
As for cost, you are looking about $350.00 per head, this a 4cyl would cost around 350 where a 6 would cost around 700.00 which generally includes heads off.
As I said, if you know what you are doing 9 times out of 10 you can do these heads on

Killbilly
08-09-2003, 05:54 PM
Mal, I'd be really interested in the info required to do that too.

MiG
08-09-2003, 06:14 PM
$700 will hurt my wallet a bit too much. I'm living off money that I made while working full time over the holidays, so I don't have much.
The only thing I'd spend that on is an engine swap (to a different one) or manual conversion. Neither of these are likely to happen for $700 so it looks like I'll have to put up with this for another year or so. If I work in Germany for a year then it'll be two years before I can get an AWD Magna and go nuts :(
Thanks for the kind offer.

I have the 12 valve 3.0 L V6

Madmagna
08-09-2003, 07:49 PM
If you do the job with someone like me giving a hand you will probably get away for less than $100.00

ex_zero
08-09-2003, 07:55 PM
i get the same problem, it isn't anything terminal is it? like, i can run the car for maybe a year's worth still?

MAGNA
09-09-2003, 07:21 AM
I can get it done in Adelaide for $250-$350 ($250 cheapest, $350 reputable place).

Manual
09-09-2003, 10:08 AM
OK mate - where is the tech article outling what needs to be done and what needs to be replaced - if I have a rough idea of what I am doing then I can normally figure it out - but ATM i wouldn't have a clue!!

and this is a 3L V6

Manual

MAGNA
09-09-2003, 11:40 AM
urmmm.. good luck! from what i've heard you need to compress them on and you need a special tool to do so, not to mention you have to keep pressure on the piston whilst you're doing it all!

bring it to someone and pay the $250-$300! if not, i've got a page somewhere that says how to do it...

Manual
09-09-2003, 12:49 PM
ok - i will tell him to start looking for some one to do this work for him!! haha

Cheers fellas!!

Manual

Madmagna
09-09-2003, 04:22 PM
OK mate - where is the tech article outling what needs to be done and what needs to be replaced - if I have a rough idea of what I am doing then I can normally figure it out - but ATM i wouldn't have a clue!!

and this is a 3L V6

Manual
The Gregory's workshop manual has a fairly good detail of what needs to be done.

Madmagna
09-09-2003, 04:26 PM
It is a fairly basic procedure. Once the cams are out and all rocker gear out the way there are 2 methods. The basic aim is to remove the valve spring with out dropping the valve in to the cylinder. The easiest way is to thread a length of nylon rope in to the cylinder then turn the engine by hand until the piston pushes the string against the valve thus when you compress and remove the valve spring the valve has no where to go. The second way is to use a small amount of compressed air to hold the valve closed, the only problem here is sometimes the air will try and push down the piston.
This is very basic description however when I do the next one I will take pick and post a proper tech article.