Well guys just got my valve seals done, no more smoke YEY, also got a service done replaced all the gaskets, runs like a dream atm :). Except transmission needs a service soon and my starter motor is about to pack in, also have an oil leak that i cant remember where but it's leaking oil onto the alternator belt.
Anyway, i wanted to know if these prices sound good or if you know how much it'll cost:
Reco starter motor $100-$150
New starter motor $200-$250
2nd hand starter motor (not sure on price)
Apparently the little teeth that engage the little teeth on the O ring or something are slipping because of something dodgy in the starter motor, is this repairable or am i better off just getting a reco one?
Also what sorta price am i looking at for a transmission service?
For the oil leak i've been quoted about $120 which includes labour to replace the seal that's leaking and also the alternator belt.
So i'll be hopefully getting the starter motor done next week with my rear brake pads, leaving the oil leak until my next service (it's not urgent) and whenever i can afford a transmission service i will do that.

Runs like a dream, so does this mean it doesnt vibrate while in gear and not moving?

Blah my TR vibrates like a maniac, especially on hot days! With no A/c ON.

Anyone have a proper fix for this??


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In the search's all I have seen is spark plug leads etc etc, these things do not help, there has to be a reason why it vibrates so much whilst in DRIVE, and when it dosent whilst in Neutral.

Anyway, i wanted to know if these prices sound good or if you know how much it'll cost:
Reco starter motor $100-$150
New starter motor $200-$250
2nd hand starter motor (not sure on price)
Apparently the little teeth that engage the little teeth on the O ring or something are slipping because of something dodgy in the starter motor, is this repairable or am i better off just getting a reco one?
Repairable if you're in the trade & got junkers to swap parts with, otherwise
just go for recond unit which will be fully checked out & warrantied.

$150 fitted is a sharp price.

Don't bother with 2nd hand stuff that hasn't been checked.

Replace the vacum hoses, that made a difference in my car.
Pull the hoses off and see how rough the car idles, if there not sealing properly could be cause for some slight vibrations...

But since its a problem with what seems like ALL the magnas, im guessing over time the internals of the engine just get worn down which causes them to rotate off balance, hence thats why at slow speeds it vibrates but at high speeds its fine.

So really you would need a whole engine rebuild i reckon to fix the problem.

Thats my two cents.

Its something to do with the transmission

My car doesn't vibrate at all now (only a little bit when it's cold).
No more smoke either :D.

My issue is and major problem/concern.

My car runs smooth, the only thing that is annoying me is when im paused at the lights and the vibration takes over.

This is when in DRIVE, in neutral/park its fine.

The car was just serviced but forgot to get advice on the vibration. Wheels etc are good aswell.

This has me stunned, I put in a bottle of Injector cleaner which didnt make a difference, I run the car on Optimax which gives it more power.

Its a TR 92 sedan. Its also got new leads/spark plugs and fuel pump.


IF ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO FIX THIS OR WHAT THE PROBLEM IS IT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Replace the vacum hoses, that made a difference in my car.
Pull the hoses off and see how rough the car idles, if there not sealing properly could be cause for some slight vibrations...

But since its a problem with what seems like ALL the magnas, im guessing over time the internals of the engine just get worn down which causes them to rotate off balance, hence thats why at slow speeds it vibrates but at high speeds its fine.

So really you would need a whole engine rebuild i reckon to fix the problem.

Thats my two cents.

Can you take a photo on which hoses these are & are they available at most Auto shops?


My engine has had a rebuild.

P.s I like driving but the vibration is annoying as, so I restrict my driving - hopefully some one has some ideas , see about these vacumm hoses!

any thing elseeeeeeeeeeeee

What's your RPM when the tranny is in 'D' and the car is stationary?

Could be the revs are too low, the engine will chug away and vibrate.
From memory (shot) RPM should sit at around 700-800 when in 'D'.

(yeah sometimes that'll mean its 1200-1500rpm in 'P' or 'N')


Honestly don't know what's worse - vibrating shaking your whole car to pieces,
or revs too high when stationary pre-loading the tranny (= heat & fuel consumption).

Don't think the original engineers planned THAT far ahead. :cry:

I just went and tested it out,

Whilst in Drive and paused it idles on 700.

Also could be power steering related?
My car vibrates abit more when it's turned a abit around.

My RPM sits around 6-700 and i dont get vibrations (well i do but not what you would call "annoying", very smooth).

nope,

drives fine but when comming to the lights and dropping speed and eventually paused the vibration kicks in.

I just went and tested it out,

Whilst in Drive and paused it idles on 700.
Hmm... can't be the tranny & idle speed then.



Have you done a compression test recently?
Could be one cylinder's pressure is 'off' the rest.

Can buy compression guage cheaply ($50?) or maybe ask a friendly garage.



Maybe try pulling plug leads off one-at-a-time when its running.

If the engine RPM/note doesn't change much when one particular lead is off,
that cylinder could be suss. Pulling off any of the other 3 should affect the engine.
My old AstronII couldn't run on smoothly on 3 cylinders either, so it ain't hard to test.
When its down to 3 it'll start shaking like a wet dog.

(once I broke my plug tool AND the plug's head... so had to drive to the shop on 3cyl. :redface: )

I just had it serviced and the valve stem seals replaced at mitsubishi

wouldnt those ppl be able to find it when doing a service

I just had it serviced and the valve stem seals replaced at mitsubishi

wouldnt those ppl be able to find it when doing a service

Did it not chug before they did the seals?

they *should* have checked compression after they did the seals, yeah. :)
Sometimes "stationary" (engine not running) compression could be
different to when its actually running.

Did they take the whole head off to do it?
Could have affected timing chain, but they should know how to do it right.


My old AstronII had bad chugging from missing due to a bad plug lead too.
HT leads fail regularly from all that vibration... and too much fiddling. :confused:
Used to change all 5 every 2 yrs or so.

Yeah they took the head off to do, so I assume they would do it properly...

But this vibration is so annoying still

hey ruSSian,

your vibration at rest whilst in drive may caused by a bad transmission or engine mount. obviously the engine is causing the vibration because its running but you have to to think of what might be causing the bad harmonics.
it may also be that whatever controls the 'creep' in the auto box is engaging too strongly. do you find that when you take your foot off the brake that the car pulls away faster than it should (without touching the accelerator)?
if the 'creep' is normal then i'd bet it's an engine or transmission mount that's tired and allowing everything to shake about.

hey ruSSian,

your vibration at rest whilst in drive may caused by a bad transmission or engine mount. obviously the engine is causing the vibration because its running but you have to to think of what might be causing the bad harmonics.
it may also be that whatever controls the 'creep' in the auto box is engaging too strongly. do you find that when you take your foot off the brake that the car pulls away faster than it should (without touching the accelerator)?
if the 'creep' is normal then i'd bet it's an engine or transmission mount that's tired and allowing everything to shake about.

how u doin,
Thanks for the reply.

As I just had the car serviced at Mitsubishi, ALL the brackets are working fine...

For your question, nope sometimes it does not pull away at all, but most of the time it does - nice and slowly like an auto should.

This is why im running out of ideas & seems know one has a specific fix for this problem eventhough most magnas have it!

even my cousins VERADA XI 1999 BLACK - 140K is starting to do this!! (this cars hot!!)

sometimes the rubber mounts can look ok but have become 'soft' through use or oil soaked. maybe get some one to put it in drive with the brake on and pop the hood and look under the car to see if anything looks obvious.

I just had a new reconditioned engine (only new cause it isn't my old one) put in, had the front struts, brake discs and pads replaced couple of new hoses as well, only thing I have not had done is the Transmission, I still get the vibration when sitting in drive, so I think my problem is the transmission time for a visit to the doctors for my car. Gotta love that process of elimination, expensive but educational.

Also what should I be paying for injectors, is is better to get orignal ones cleaned or replaced. By the way it is a 2.6 TR auto.

Cheers :D

Well guys just got my valve seals done, no more smoke YEY, also got a service done replaced all the gaskets, runs like a dream atm :).

Hey TR-Envy - how much did the valve seals & labour set you back? I'm going to have to get mine done soon - The local Mitsi Dealer quoted $420 parts & labour.

Hey TR-Envy - how much did the valve seals & labour set you back? I'm going to have to get mine done soon - The local Mitsi Dealer quoted $420 parts & labour.
$240 for parts and labour :D and a service. I think it was about $150 to do it seperately.

**EDIT**
That's for a 4, if you have a 6 it almost doubles as the labour involved and parts nearly doubles :).

$240 for parts and labour :D and a service. I think it was about $150 to do it seperately.

**EDIT**
That's for a 4, if you have a 6 it almost doubles as the labour involved and parts nearly doubles :).

Thanks for the update (& your additional edit) - i thought the dealer was trying to rip me off when i saw you got yours done for $240 on your initial post. I have the V6 tho' so i guess my quote isnt too far off after all.

Thanks for the update (& your additional edit) - i thought the dealer was trying to rip me off when i saw you got yours done for $240 on your initial post. I have the V6 tho' so i guess my quote isnt too far off after all.
Still prob paying abit too much though, should be about $3-350

I got quoted $440 by one mechanic.. and that was only my 4 cylinder... glad u guys mention u got it so cheap, make me shop round some more otherwise i would of just payed it :confused:

I got quoted $440 by one mechanic.. and that was only my 4 cylinder... glad u guys mention u got it so cheap, make me shop round some more otherwise i would of just payed it :confused:
I probably paid bare minimal as our mechanic is a family one we trust for 30 years, but you wouldn't pay more than $200 no way, or you could pay $40 and do it yourself :P.