Hey guys, i know this topic has been done to death, but i was hoping some of you knowlegable people could help me out.

I have a TF Advance 3l V6 which has done 143,000k's,
And is doing the following
the auto is shifting rough between 2nd and 3rd.
When in 3rd crusing, their is a slight shudder for a few seconds before it decides to change to 4th
The kickdown seems to have a bit of slip, and thumps a bit (3rd to 2ndmostly noticable)
After the changes, the transmission does not slip.
Gear changes seem a little slow in comparision to other autos ive driven

My car has had a coolent leak from the thermostat, which i have fixed recently. This resulted in coolent leaking onto the 3 plugs ontop of the transmission

I have had the transmission flushed.

So far I have come up with the following plans of attack to fix this problem
1) Have the transmission fluid flushed again(good idea or not ~$200 bucks)
2) Have the damper clutch looked at(any idea how much this will cost)
3) Check the transmission plugs(is it possible to test them)
4) Replace/(Reco) Transmission(owch)
5) Someone suggested Throttle Position Sensor(Any ideas)

I know very little about auto transmissions, so any suggestions as to what I should do next would be greatly appreiciated. This problem is driving me bananas.

Thanks in advance,
Daniel

sorry to butt in, but because i have my own dramas atm with my trans, you mentioned the theromstat leaking collent onto the transmission plugs?

if this were true, what effect will this most likley have?

sorry to butt in, but because i have my own dramas atm with my trans, you mentioned the theromstat leaking collent onto the transmission plugs?

if this were true, what effect will this most likley have?

The plugs are actually sealed at the bottom, so generally water should not be a problem, the plug contacts in my car looked pretty clean. However one was a bit dirty at the top of the plug.
I am no expert, but i think this is a possibility for my problems. The only way to rule it out is to test the plug, but i have no idea how to test it.

I have sprayed crc in the plugs which made no differnce.

Regards
Daniel

This is the symptoms is had before i got my tranny rebuilt. Failure was caused by metal filings in the diff (due to open wheeling) going through the transmission, and thus needing a rebuild. No idea about the plugs which your talking about

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for an hour? - I once had a rough shift problem with mine that I solved this way. Might be worth a try before spending mega $$$

Thanks everyone for the replys,
Yeah i have tried disconnecting the battery a few times, to no avail.
Will disconnect the battery tonight and let you guys know how it goes. (terminals need a clean anyway)
Another thing which i might try is put a differnt filter in.
The guys put a non-mitsu brand trans filter in when it was flushed(i gave them mitsu fluid to put in though)

Thanks again..

Dan

I thought the shifts between 2nd and 3rd were meant to be a bit rough. Like you feel it kick more. Maybe Im thinking my 1st to 2nd though.

All shifts through aal gears should be quick, but smooth. 2nd to 3rd gear changes wich "flare" out, and are a bit sloppy is a sign of a tranny slowley on its way out. Changing oil may help. Is the oil bright red, or is it coloured. How low has it been since you got it changed??

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for an hour? - I once had a rough shift problem with mine that I solved this way. Might be worth a try before spending mega $$$
Try this!!! It works for me!

Mine was the same when I got the car, particularly when shifts were between 2nd to 3rd and after a long drive, 3rd to 4th. Firstly I did the flush and new filter, then I did the disconnection thing overnight. I've found that the first few gear changes for me can determine whether or not it slips further down the track, whether its how it programs things i dont know so I tested it a few times. The first time I connected it, I warmed it up and held the foot down further (bout 3/4 down through all gears) but it made it slip more after a while. The 2nd attempt, I held accelerator about 1/3 down and the gears changed at 3000rpm, and found this to be the smoothest shifting point for me, it slipped for the first probably 6 changes for all gears but settled just nicely after. I think I've read somewhere about torque reduction between changes as well so i try and get my tranny to change at 3000rpm all the time, at least 1st and 2nd gears. Anyways, I have not had any problem since... so see if this helps maybe, the slipping doesnt suggest it will need a re-build in my opinion..

-- Kym

Ill try resetting the ecu again on tuesday.
The transmission fluid is best described blood red color(when it is in a jar), I have taken a bit out of the transmission, because the guys at the transmission shop overfilled it by about 3 litres.
The changes are quite rough, it will sometimes change smooth as its ment to, other times it will put 3rd in with 2 thumps (definitely not normal).
I should also add that when you put the foot down 3/4ish throttle+ the changes are good.

Thanks again for the replys, you guys are awesome :)

Daniel

Ill try resetting the ecu again on tuesday.
The transmission fluid is best described blood red color(when it is in a jar), I have taken a bit out of the transmission, because the guys at the transmission shop overfilled it by about 3 litres.
The changes are quite rough, it will sometimes change smooth as its ment to, other times it will put 3rd in with 2 thumps (definitely not normal).
I should also add that when you put the foot down 3/4ish throttle+ the changes are good.

Thanks again for the replys, you guys are awesome :)

Daniel
If its blood red in colour the ATF is would be dextron, and i have had many people recomend not putting dextron in mitsubishi Auto's only use the genuine mitsubishi stuff, as it can cause many a problem, including rough changes
I suggest try using the correct transmission oil

Thanks for the tip,
Im heading down to Hidelberg mitsubishi tomorrow, with a sample of my tranny fluid...probably book it in for another flush.(not going back to the other place i went to)
I've spoken to the guys at hidelberg a few times, been very impressed with thier service and help on the phone.

Neways Ill let you know how it all goes

Cheers,
Daniel

Ok just been down to Hidelberg mitsubishi,
They checked the fluid, the computers for error codes, and the models of my transmission computer and transmission.
Apparently my particular model combination, transmission computer/transmission had problems, which is responsible for the rough 2-3 change. These problems were fixed under warrently while the cars were still under warrenty

To fix it i need a new transmision computer $982 from them.

Oh well, i think i might just have to live with it untill i have some time to visit some wreckers and change it over.

Thanks heaps for you help guys

Daniel

Yeah i wouldnt pay that because there is no guarantee that it will fix it.

I bought a KE when brand new in Dec 96 and the tranny did the same thing after about 5000k's of gentle driving. They put a new comp in to no avail so they ended up replacing whole tranny under warranty. Been fine since. Was the updated KF tranny.

When you had the flush done in the past, was it a full flush or just a drain and re-fill flush?

Drain and re-fill flush wont do anything but i have recently had my KE and KH fully flushed and both tranny's are literally like brand new. They were still ok before hand but a little rough between changes but now they are as smooth as silk like new. Cant believe the difference it makes. HIGHLY recommend it to anyone who's tranny is getting a little rough.

Filter wont make any difference to tranny but oil type will. I also only recommend using genuine oil. FLush will cost you round $180 - $200 filter included.

Just concerned that you had to remove 3 litres of fluid. Are you sure it is filled to the correct level now. Magnas must be checked in Neutral, not park with engine and tranny hot (drive 15 kilos min) and go thru all gears before checking and keep motor running while you check. check front and back of dipstick and the lower level is the correct one if the 2 are not the same.

Low level causes shifting probs.

Yeah, i got the transmission fluid level checked while i was down at Hidelberg mitsubishi,
Apparently the levels are fine now,
I am actually a bit unconvinced wheter the transmission was fully flushed as i requested when i had the transmission done last time, because the fluid is quite dark already, (darker than the dextron which i compared it to). Ill see if i can get some pics of the fluid up tonight.

Thanks,
Daniel

I was pulling in to the car park at work, only doing 10 to 15k's an hour with very lite throttle application, and the car smacked from 1st into second with what seemed like a large jolt, seemed odd as it's been smooth as a baby's bum, i'll see what it's like tonight, but has anyone with a tj-tl-tw experienced this?

Just tried the computer reset, and using 3,000 rpm changes as suggested earlier....things seem to have improved (changes arnt silky smooth, but better(seem a bit faster)). (this is kinda difficult around my place, as i live at the top of a big hill, so i drove around in 1'st and Neutral, untill i got to the bottom where there is a gentle incline.)
I will get the transmission flushed in another 20,000k's/The guy from Hidelberg thought it wasnt worth flushing it again at this stage(showed him a sample).
Anway here is a pic showing some of my tranny fluid(as far as i know diamond spectrum mitsu stuff), next to dexton3(new), the fluid on the right is my fluid(done around 400k's).

http://homepage.cs.latrobe.edu.au/dpbates/P1210317.JPG

That fluid is absolutely filthy. As you said, think someone is telling you porkies on what sort of flush was done.

I had my tranny fully flushed about a month ago and it still looks like the fluid on the left. It shouldnt go that dark so quickly. My old oil wasnt even that dark i dont think and it had 120,000k's on it.


When you check your fluid level, it should be nice and red. Here is a pic of dirty and clean tranny oil on a cloth to give you an idea on what they should look like.

The oil on the left is the tranny oil now after the flush. The oil on the right is the old oil. The guy who did the flush said that the old oil wasnt even that dirty but yet the difference to how smooth the gears change now with the flush is massive. Like a brand new tranny.

Thanks for the reply FamilyWagon,
And thankyou everyone for the replys...Now i know pretty much where i stand. I will get the fluid done a few weeks from now once uni starts to become less hectic.

I appreciate the time and effort you guys have taken to help me out here....And so, a VERY big thankyou to everyone who has contributed to this thread.
Now, hopefully i can get this tranny sorted out and get on with some mods ;)

Cheers,
Daniel

If its blood red in colour the ATF is would be dextron, and i have had many people recomend not putting dextron in mitsubishi Auto's only use the genuine mitsubishi stuff, as it can cause many a problem, including rough changes
I suggest try using the correct transmission oil

Definitly NO DEXTRON....Dextron is a transmission oil....Magna's dont have one.They have Transaxle's..So you should use only the recommended type which is Castrol TQM ($45 for 4 Ltrs).

OMG! U had the EXACT same thing as me, well apparently, the place i went to claimed that coolant from the thermostat was dripping over the plugs which cased the plugs to corode, and then one thing led to another, the plug caused some malfunction in the trans which caused some clutch to be stuffed up, and i needed a whole recondition. $2700 later, not happy, coz later we found that there was no leak! Lesson learnt, get quotes first. I know your problem actually involves a leak, but i thought id share my story anyway

im so pissed of now was driving my car after work to home and on the way the car just stopped moving as if it was on neutral so i pushed it to a nearby petrol station.. none of the gears work but the car goes into gear becouse i can tell from the revs changing but the car does not work wat might be the problem? transmission gone or computer gone or sumfing else?

Strange problem....
From what you describe, the transmission sounds like it is engageing Drive (hence revs drop), which makes me think possibly something further down is buggered...could be way off the mark though
These questions might help with the diagnosis of your problem

what happens when you rev the engine in drive, does it rev freely or labour the engine? does car move?
Any strange sounds?
Have you been doing anything nasty to the drivetrain (dropping it from N to Drive etc I cant believe how many people do this)

Ill leave it to the experts to answer this one though as i know very little about these new cars, probably best to talk to an auto specialist. Let us know how it goes.

well yes i do heaps of N to D i dunno its stupid but its in my blood, the engine does move and there is no strange sounds infact just 2mins before the car ****ed up i done a N to Drive at the traffic lights (regrets every single time hes done such actions...)

Cant really help you, but you might want to check out this
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22173&highlight=driveshaft

Regards,
Daniel

Have a chat to Dee.. She is a Automatic Transmission specialist.. lol

Have a chat to Dee.. She is a Automatic Transmission specialist.. lol:naughty: but lol

:naughty: but lol

Went and seen Kevin Bloody Wilson last nite.. Must be his humour rubbing off on me.. :bowrofl:

does dee also dp warranty work???? cause my diff in my auto blew beacuse mitysu didnt care a bout the clunking on down gear changes now i have to pay 2400 GOD DAM BUCKS:rant:

well yes i do heaps of N to D i dunno its stupid but its in my blood, the engine does move and there is no strange sounds infact just 2mins before the car ****ed up i done a N to Drive at the traffic lights (regrets every single time hes done such actions...)

Congratulations it sounds like you've just done thousands of dollars worth of damage to your car. Maybe you can sue your parents for giving you a genetic predisposition to being a moron :nuts: .

Sorry to sound harsh - but you knew it wasn't good for your car, but you continued to do it (what you got out of it I can't imagine), and only now that you have completelyt f*cked your car.... you regret doing it.

This post contains 0% sympathy.

does dee also dp warranty work???? cause my diff in my auto blew beacuse mitysu didnt care a bout the clunking on down gear changes now i have to pay 2400 GOD DAM BUCKS:rant:

No Dee doesnt.

Supid over there (ego) was being a good friend and taking the mickky out of me and my cars ability to have its 4th transmission (96 TE- 150 000kms) put in, in under 6mths. (although it did have 2 put in in the last 2 weeks :S). So no, dee is not someone to ask in this matter.

.... still got probs and no car in my driveway atm!! So jase, mark... :upyours:

it was transmission it was blown cost me $950 to get a second hand one installed and fitted car now works fine again :D