is it a good or bad idea to run the amp off the cigarette lighter? i have a feeling its a bad idea? if it is a bad idea what about if you run it off the spare acc thingy? and is there a guide on how to hook stuff up to accessories coz im stumped with that ****.

thanks in advance

oh nooo

do not ever...EVER! run an amp off ur ciggie lighter

its ok for u to be running stuff like neons and LEDs, coz they draw pussy amounts of current.

don't do it.

sif i cant run my house's power off the cig lighter! PTSH!

...You can't be serious?

...You can't be serious?

please refer to signature lol

if you mean the other bloke.. hehehe :P agreed.

Heh, yeah I meant the other bloke ;-)

Why would you want to plug it into ciggie lighter?

Thing of the ACC line as a trigger line, not power.

You plug you amp into the battery AND into the acc line.

When the car is turned on the current runs down the acc line and this current triggers the amp into turning on and start drawing power from the battery line.

You have all these connections at the back of your headunit you can slice into.

you must run it off battery, period.
tho what u normally do then is have it run to ure h/u to an acc line that makes it power up with the h/u, thus not making it draw current under normal cisrcumstances.
what i did ontop of that was put a switch inline with the acc line to the amp, so i can control whether it be on or off.
coz unless my volume is up the bass cant be heard.
so at night time unlike some pricks, i turn my sub off due to low volume.

An amp requires at least 30 amps of current (fuse), while the cigg lighter plug is limited be not more that a 3 amp fuse i think. ur gonna smoke it. :nuts:

Yes lets run an Amp of a Ciggy socket and watch as the Headlights dim the Wiring starts to melt and the Sub being powered by it sound quiter then a mouse fart....

No amplifiers need as much voltage as they can get...
A fused power line from the Battey with a Equal Gauged ground wire that is the shortest length possible is required, not to mention a remote wire from the Deck or from the accesories switch..

The headlights won't dim nor will the wires melt if you run the amp off the cigarette lighter, as it won't draw any more power than if it was hooked up to the battery. Except that you will blow the fuse for the Accessory circuit.

Cigarette lighters can handle a fair amount of current, (it takes a fair bit of juice to operate the ciggy lighter itself) I think around 15 amps but not sure.

It is safe to do this as the line is fused, so you wont get any fires by using this. Just replacing fuses all day.

You will get voltage drop through such a thin wire which means ur amp will be struggling. You'd be better off running a 4 gauge or even 8 gauge cable from the battery and doing it right.

Fuse near the battery, and run it through the firewall via a grommet, it's not a hard job.

What amp is it anyway? If its a tiny 2 x 45 w amp, u could get away with it (it would be dodgy as though) Anything respectable dont bother thinking about using the ciggy lighter.

Peace

Tim

Cigarette lighters can handle a fair amount of current, (it takes a fair bit of juice to operate the ciggy lighter itself) I think around 15 amps but not sure.



This thread reminded me of them ciggy lighter starter leads. How is it possible they dont fry when you cranck the starter ? :confused:

This thread reminded me of them ciggy lighter starter leads. How is it possible they dont fry when you cranck the starter ? :confused:

are those things actually starters or just battery chargers?

well once everytime has finished taking the piss out of me lol can someone tell me where that forum was about getting through the firewall or like a guide i think ive seen it aorund somewhere

This should help mate. (http://www.wermspowke.net/wiki/index.php/Interior#How_do_I_get_my_cabling_through_the_firew all.3F)

Last topic at the bottom.

yes sweet thanks champ

There's a good grommet if you fold down the carpet in the drivers footwell on the front left corner.

it is where the auto tranny selector tube goes through. Big enough to fit 0 gauge through easily.

Poke a hole through this with a screwdriver, not too big as you want a watertight seal.
Make sure you keep the wires running away from the actual engine/moving parts, or parts that heat up. Use cable ties.

Fuse within 18" of the battery closer the better.

edit: Make sure when u go through the firewall the wire has no chance of rubbing against the body. This will quickly cut through the outer sheath causing a short against the chassis

Fuse within 18" of the battery closer the better.

Sorry to go off topic but a mate of mine has his fuse all the way back on the boot of his astra, he said he put it there for something a bit different.

Sorry to go off topic but a mate of mine has his fuse all the way back on the boot of his astra, he said he put it there for something a bit different.
Argh.. bad news..

Get him to fix this asap.

The reason u NEED a fuse next to the battery is if ur car gets in an accident, or say the wire that is going through the firewall frays and comes in contact with the chassis, there is going to be a short circuit.

With a fuse next to the battery this is fine as the fuse will blow = $2 fix.

With the fuse in the boot, if there is a short circuit anywhere between the battery and the fuse, sparks will fly and the current will build up until something breaks this circuit.

This will either be the wire burning (unlikely), the battery itself exploding (possibly) Or a fire where the cable makes contact with the chassis

Either way it spells bad news and can result in ur car burning to the ground.

Chase this up for ur mates sake..

The same will happen if your battery terminals short against your bonnet or a screwdriver etc. Current will increase until something breaks the circuit. This is why your positive terminal should always be covered, as with all active leads in ur car. A quick way to fk up someones car is to throw a battery into the bonnet so both terminals touch. (= boom :redface: )

Argh.. bad news..

Get him to fix this asap.

The reason u NEED a fuse next to the battery is if ur car gets in an accident, or say the wire that is going through the firewall frays and comes in contact with the chassis, there is going to be a short circuit.

With a fuse next to the battery this is fine as the fuse will blow = $2 fix.

With the fuse in the boot, if there is a shot circuit anywhere between the battery and the fuse, sparks will fly and the current will build up until something breaks this circuit.

This will either be the wire burning (unlikely), the battery itself exploding (possibly) Or a fire where the cable makes contact with the chassis

Either way it spells bad news and can result in ur car burning to the ground.

Chase this up for ur mates sake..


Damn, lucky mins on the front wheel arch then aye.

Doesnt really worry me where this guys is, hes a dick head neways. hahahahaha.

what about the cabling itself do you have to insulate it to protect it from the heat? and wot with? or can u buy like heat resistant wire or some ****?

Heat wont be a big problem as long as its not in contact with the engine block itself.

I use cable covers on all my power leads. You can get them from jaycar etc, $20 for 10 metres. Just corrugated plastic.

Also use heatshrink around the edges to make it all neat.
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/7533/enginebay2vp.th.jpg (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=enginebay2vp.jpg)
Peace

Tim

wot is that thing on top of the battery that says stinger is it a fuse? and how did u acutally connect the amp cable to the battery positive nozzle ive seen little clips that look like a Y, are they alright?

You can use a proper battery terminal with the appropriate gauge input. Or u can just attach a connector onto the end then bolt it through the existing battery terminal.

It is an ANL fuseholder on the top of mine.
I dont think you'll need one that big though

k thanks, next question, what is heatshrinking?

Heat wont be a big problem as long as its not in contact with the engine block itself.

I use cable covers on all my power leads. You can get them from jaycar etc, $20 for 10 metres. Just corrugated plastic.

Also use heatshrink around the edges to make it all neat.
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/7533/enginebay2vp.th.jpg (http://img244.imageshack.us/my.php?image=enginebay2vp.jpg)
Peace

Tim

ROFL @ fuse box cover. :bowrofl:

ROFL @ fuse box cover. :bowrofl:
HEY STFU!!! ;)

Actually, I have no *** idea how or why that happened to the fusebox cover, was like that when i got it. Makes it a ***** when i need to change fuses...

Heatshrinking, u dont need to worry too much about, just a wank factor thing that I do for all my cabling. You cover ur joins with heatshrink which is a rubber sleeve, then heat it up and it shrinks onto the cable itself to make it water tight and not susceptible to corrosion/short circuits etc...

oh k thanks dude
donno if i couild be screwed doing that but wot do u heat it up with nething?lighter?

yep ideally u use a heatshrinker (just like a heat gun) but a lighter works fine.

i'm going to steal your allen key thing tim :badgrin:

are those things actually starters or just battery chargers?

I dont know for sure but i sure as hell will never try to jump a car with it lol. I saw a box in a shop once and it said "plug and go" so i dont know.

I needed to jump my car ages ago when i was a n00b so i just got some speaker wire. It was so cool how the wire melted it even made a noise like "fwweeeewww"

I needed to jump my car ages ago when i was a n00b so i just got some speaker wire. It was so cool how the wire melted it even made a noise like "fwweeeewww"

:bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl: damnit, why aren't you dead yet?!!

oh thats funny.