It's finally come to the point where I have to get serious about this problem, my 2nd Gen Mitsubishi TR '92 is a pritty nice car. Something attracted it to me when I bought it, over a year ago now.

As I have posted alot of 'Vibration Posts/Rough Idle' and so have 65% of others, As the topic states I am on a mission to try and fix this problem.

Short overbrief: Car Runs fine, though when Standing still(Idle) at the lights or a similiar position the Rough Vibration kicks in. Car is always serviced every 10,000KM.
All brackets are fine also, on Engine & Tranny.
Also Idles at normal speeds.

i have come across alot of handy sites, eventhough their other car models or forums I have listed them below for people in the same situation to read if needed.

BELOW:

http://www.allpar.com/fix/idling-repair.html

*common idle and stalling problems can involve the distributor cap and rotor, MAP (manifold air pressure) sensor, spark plugs, and Hall effect sensor. Faulty throttle position sensor (TPS) - a very common problem on fuel injected cars.

http://www.allpar.com/eek/injectors.html

Leaking fuel injectors can cause hard starting when the engine is hot, a lumpy idle, or high emissions (unburned hydrocarbons).

*vacuum hose's

http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/IdleControlValve.html
Idle Control Valve (ICV)

MITSUBISHI QUESTION - galant
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl620g.htm


I'm going to see if I can get my hands on some parts, I want the beast running in top condition for summer, with no vibration problems!

comments welcomed,
cheers

Does it have the vibration 100% of the time? My TS used to get a slight vibration at idle when the thermo fans kicked in.

you said idles at normal but whats normal??
mines running extreemely low i need to get the idle turned up agin
it keeps stalling to again............maybe just get ur idle turned up

May I ask whether it vibrates if you have the gear in Neutral?

May I ask whether it vibrates if you have the gear in Neutral?


No Vibration in Neutral Or Park

Only in DRIVE. This happens in all GENS of Magnas. ''99 Xi Verada

Does it have the vibration 100% of the time? My TS used to get a slight vibration at idle when the thermo fans kicked in.

Thats usually a cylinder gone missing, did you fix the problem?


(It only kicks in at idle) (Paused at lights)

the only rough idle i've noticed is when i come to a stop after a spirited drive, or when i come to a stop at the lights straight off the highway.

when the car becomes stationary, the revs drop real low, car shakes, but within a second or two the revs jump back up and all is good again.

you said idles at normal but whats normal??
mines running extreemely low i need to get the idle turned up agin
it keeps stalling to again............maybe just get ur idle turned up


Its in another thread what speeds it should be at, TR-Envy or Magnette may know.

What Socket Number to Remove old Spark Plugs???

the only rough idle i've noticed is when i come to a stop after a spirited drive, or when i come to a stop at the lights straight off the highway.

when the car becomes stationary, the revs drop real low, car shakes, but within a second or two the revs jump back up and all is good again.

I had that on the TE. something sticking in the tranny. got it replaced under warranty. when it gets worse the car will either stall or jump forward.

Found another excellent article, eventhough its a different model, same situation.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl703.htm

Thats usually a cylinder gone missing, did you fix the problem?


(It only kicks in at idle) (Paused at lights)

Yeah....kind of. I took off the thermo fans and used some heat resistant rubber on the fan mounts. It didn't go away completly, but it was a lot better.

Its in another thread what speeds it should be at, TR-Envy or Magnette may know.
Mitsu says 800 rpm + or - 50 rpm.
Mine sits at 600 with very little vibration.
My car also does exactly what eeks does after a run on the freeway and i pull up to a stop it'll be a little rougher than normal but then it thins itself out.

Also just a question, can you feel the vibration or can you just hear it?
I've noticed that if i have a loose cd in the glove box it'll rattle like crazy, but i've noticed most cars do this :S.
Have you checked fuel pressure? have you tried cleaning fuel injectors?
Cleaned out air intake/throttle body?

The ultimate thing you COULD do is pull everything out of the car, and put it all back on replacing broken/worn parts, cleaning etc.

Mitsu says 800 rpm + or - 50 rpm.
Mine sits at 600 with very little vibration.
My car also does exactly what eeks does after a run on the freeway and i pull up to a stop it'll be a little rougher than normal but then it thins itself out.

Also just a question, can you feel the vibration or can you just hear it?
I've noticed that if i have a loose cd in the glove box it'll rattle like crazy, but i've noticed most cars do this :S.
Have you checked fuel pressure? have you tried cleaning fuel injectors?
Cleaned out air intake/throttle body?

The ultimate thing you COULD do is pull everything out of the car, and put it all back on replacing broken/worn parts, cleaning etc.

Can feel the vibration when paused at the lights, usually comes onto the Steering Wheel you can visually see it moving up and down(vibration).

Does this make sense? if not ill try explain more..

I'm planning on replacing my fuel Injectors within the next week to see if this eases the problem. $153 for all of them sound good? brand new?

Is cleaning the throttle body/ air intake easy? Could you/someone explain it? (ill do a better search)

Just changed spark plugs to NGK , Leads , Air filter , Distributor cap.

Injectors are next. ^^


thanks

Like you, i also embarked on a mission to get a 'smooth' idle from my TS, and i gave up pretty quickly. Its just the astron... Never likes to idle smooth. I replaced every related external component with still no positive results in idle. The only possible factor i left was the transmission (with which i only serviced, nothing more). I thought it might be torque converter problems. One other factor i left was the electrical charging system, it may be that the components drain more electrical power at idle, creating a weaker spark (hence the **** idle) - as the alternator is not generating as much charge at low rpm.

Does anybody here hava a manual 2.6l, and does it idle smooth?
or
Does anybody have an astron with a brand new alternator and battery fitted, and does it idle smooth?

(sorry to hijack thread, but it may answer your questions)

hrm there has to be something that is causing this, waiting for some more money to come in then going to get auto reconditioned, see if that makes a difference.

Like you, i also embarked on a mission to get a 'smooth' idle from my TS, and i gave up pretty quickly. Its just the astron... Never likes to idle smooth. I replaced every related external component with still no positive results in idle. The only possible factor i left was the transmission (with which i only serviced, nothing more). I thought it might be torque converter problems. One other factor i left was the electrical charging system, it may be that the components drain more electrical power at idle, creating a weaker spark (hence the **** idle) - as the alternator is not generating as much charge at low rpm.

Does anybody here hava a manual 2.6l, and does it idle smooth?
or
Does anybody have an astron with a brand new alternator and battery fitted, and does it idle smooth?

(sorry to hijack thread, but it may answer your questions)

Have you cleaned your throttle body?

My TR Magna, 2.6l efi manual, seems to idle fine? no vibration problems here. cept for broken exhaust i need to get fixed :rant:

Cleaning the throttle body is a piece of p!ss.
Just unbolt it and clean out the inside of it, in fact you prob dont even have to take it off the car, just take off the air intake. have you checked the air intake tubing for any air leaks? is your filter clean?
Rough idle could be caused by the car not getting something it needs, either not enough fuel or not enough air, cleaning the air intake will help air move (not by much but it couldn't hurt) and cleaning/replacing the injectors will also help with this. I think my injectors need cleaning/replacing as well so i'll have to see.

Barry on here is selling fuel injector thingys for our engine, might be worth getting hooked up with some of them.

Cleaning the throttle body is a piece of p!ss.
Just unbolt it and clean out the inside of it, in fact you prob dont even have to take it off the car, just take off the air intake. have you checked the air intake tubing for any air leaks? is your filter clean?
Rough idle could be caused by the car not getting something it needs, either not enough fuel or not enough air, cleaning the air intake will help air move (not by much but it couldn't hurt) and cleaning/replacing the injectors will also help with this. I think my injectors need cleaning/replacing as well so i'll have to see.

Barry on here is selling fuel injector thingys for our engine, might be worth getting hooked up with some of them.

Is there a thread for these 'injectors'

Or is the nick 'Barry'

thanks..

Is there a thread for these 'injectors'

Or is the nick 'Barry'

thanks..
Both.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23303
This kit is for a 3rd gen but he has made a 2nd gen kit also, just send him a pm and he will give you details (it actually works out abit cheaper than the 3rd gen kit).
I'll be getting the kit soonish hopefully.

cheers thanks

Interesting problem as I too felt slight vibrations when at stop(traffic light, in D position) and Nothing in N position. As this was only quite light, I didnt really complain much. Thought maybe I should just send in the car for a better check up one of these days when I am feeling richer. Unless the solution for this is really obvious.

Cheers on this mission, I am sure quite a few will have to read this.

Thanks!

Where is ISC and how to adjust idle speed?

Car feels like its going to conk out ???

Hey my car does this too!
Your sitting at a light in 'D' and you would feel slight vibrations through your feet (foot on brake) and slight vibrations through your ass as well, and you will notice the tach needle hovering a bit and going bak down.

IS this due to old spark plugs? Ive changed my oil, air filter, about to do (fuel filter), and timing-belt as well.

But would spark-plugs be contributing to this vibration problem?

On another note, does anyone else experience this. When you turn-on your car, do you guys hear a clicking noise? It sounds like something is loose in their somewhere. Im thinking its the alternator itself, or the alternator belt OR the timing-belt, im just assuming it could be it cause its getting old and loose so things are not as tight, so I get clicking noises??

What could be the culprit?

1) Alternator
2) Alternator Belt
3) Timing Belt
OR
4) Something else, that I dont know of.....

By the way Russian' I support you in your mission!

thanks for the support..

When I upgraded my Spark Plugs it just helped start easier - not a big thump its smooth now, get some NGK ones, there only like $3.45 Each..

Good luck on your other problem aswell. Keep us up to date.


My idle felt like it died today, car feels like its going to conkkkkkkkkkkk outttttttt

skitzing!

hey yeah, ya mission will save many here heaps! Because this is just a minor vibration in my car, I didnt want to fiddle around with it, and was not going to send it to some other mech other than Mitsubitshi to investigate this problem. I have changed my spark plugs, they dont seem to be the culprit for the vibrations.

hey yeah, ya mission will save many here heaps! Because this is just a minor vibration in my car, I didnt want to fiddle around with it, and was not going to send it to some other mech other than Mitsubitshi to investigate this problem. I have changed my spark plugs, they dont seem to be the culprit for the vibrations.


What condition are your Injectors in? ever been cleaned since u had your car?

Hey Russian, do you just need the normal NGK sparklugs?

Cause, I need 3 NGK platinum spark plugs for the rear bank and 3 normal ones for the front....

The platinum ones cost alot! $15 for one spark-plug!
The normal ones, are like $3ish each.

Hey Russian, do you just need the normal NGK sparklugs?

Cause, I need 3 NGK platinum spark plugs for the rear bank and 3 normal ones for the front....

The platinum ones cost alot! $15 for one spark-plug!
The normal ones, are like $3ish each.


Just the normal ones, I was told these are the best brand for our engines, suppose u could spend more if u had the money..

What condition are your Injectors in? ever been cleaned since u had your car?

You can laugh at me, I have no idea what are the injectors you are talking about. lol Yes silly me I am no pro auto mechanic so dont really know much details about all these auto stuff yet. Yes basic things like engine oil, ATF oil, Fuel filter (just learned) and some changing of lights are what I mostly know how to do for my Magna TE. Well basically thats why I like to learn and teach others here too if they want to learn.

I just got this car like in July and was quite happy with its performance so far despite minor vibrations at stops.

Dodgy spark plugs wont do sh!t to the idle (unless they're really bad), if your spark plugs were no good you'd notice it when you put load on the engine, say accelerating from a stand still.
I've just got champion plugs on mine, will probably upgrade to NDK when these need replacing :D.

Nexus these are fuel Injectors i'm talking about, I know what you mean when it comes to finding out things on the car, im learning more aswell day-by-day. There easy to spot, check out the pic. Have a look on your car, im pritty sure they are in the same spot.

Theres a total of 4.



SPARK-PLUGS.

Yeah my old ones where Champions, Mitsubishi uses these as stock ones, when I started though it would give a small thump, alot better with new NGK ones.

Is that where you place your spark plugs? I have changed the spark plugs but ur clean the injectors as in? I only wipe off any dirt or oil that are on them. any extra advise would be taken and appreciated thanks!

Cheers!

Is that where you place your spark plugs? I have changed the spark plugs but ur clean the injectors as in? I only wipe off any dirt or oil that are on them. any extra advise would be taken and appreciated thanks!

Cheers!

Nah The Injectors are circled as you can see, theres four of them, the spark plugs are connected to spark plug leads.. Our engines must be different, however would not take long to find these components on your car,. As for the Injectors, I have been told a 'Ultrasonic Clean' is the ideal way to make sure their efficent, I will be replacing my ones soon with Reconditioned ones from Repco.

u got a photo of your engine?

Yeap picture of my Engine coming right up.

What does those injectors do may I ask? I am new to this lol.
Again this was a earlier pic I could take a better picture maybe showing the injectors tomorrow.

cheers!

Yeap picture of my Engine coming right up.

What does those injectors do may I ask? I am new to this lol.
Again this was a earlier pic I could take a better picture maybe showing the injectors tomorrow.

cheers!
lol are you serious?
Your fuel injectors are where the fuel gets pumped into your engine.
I've never actually seen a good close up of the 4 cylinder 3rd gen, but by the looks of it your fuel injectors are up the top, cant seem to see the sparkies though, are they up the top as well?
You'll have 4 injectors, 1 for each cylinder, cleaning them means cleaning them on the inside so you get a nice flow of fuel, wynns spitfire can help with this.

From that picture you posted Nexus, looks like your spark plugs location is in reference to Tr-Envy's fuel injectors.

I've never seen a 2.4 engine inclose detail before, so I can't really point out where the fuel injectors are. Basically these fuel injectors are connected to the fuel rail which looks like a long metal plate looking thing with a bulge running through the length (THe piping for the fuel), and four of your injectors are connected to it. There will also be some cabling attached to the fuel injectors.

No Vibration in Neutral Or Park

Only in DRIVE. This happens in all GENS of Magnas. ''99 Xi Verada


The reason I asked is that it is a common problem in automatic vehicles. Whilst in Drive (D) and you are stopped at the lights, the engine is still engaged onto the transmission, albeit the torque convertor is converting all the energy to waste when idling in D which is why your wheels don't move. Only some vehicles will electronically disengage and put you in neutral whilst idling and stopped, our Magnas of all generation are not in this category.

So have you ever thought it could be your transmission?

Hey Russian, do you just need the normal NGK sparklugs?

Cause, I need 3 NGK platinum spark plugs for the rear bank and 3 normal ones for the front....

The platinum ones cost alot! $15 for one spark-plug!
The normal ones, are like $3ish each.


seeing as yours is a v6 platinums in the back bank is the smart way to go as the manifold has to be removed when you change them. for the difference in price of plugs and then you add in labour costs and gasket costs the platinums are the best choice

Yes, I am serious, whats the whole point of trying to act as if I know something if I dont lol .
No I came here to learn more and as I said I only know some basics in maintenance, and whatever is taught here, is greatly appreciated and if I can help others, I would.

Anyways, nope those on top were the spark plugs, as one of you mentioned the injectors are the ones attached to some tubing which I think they are the fuel lines.

Here is another pic of my engine. I always try to maintain the engine compartment clean as possible.

Question: what and how do you clean the injectors?

Cheers!

your injectors are at the base(top side) of your inlet manifold were it joins the head. The tube they sit in is called a fuel rail, and each of them has a plug on them. having your injectors cleaned properly is best left to a specialist as they use hi-tec equiptment to ultrasonically clean them.

Hope this helps

The reason I asked is that it is a common problem in automatic vehicles. Whilst in Drive (D) and you are stopped at the lights, the engine is still engaged onto the transmission, albeit the torque convertor is converting all the energy to waste when idling in D which is why your wheels don't move. Only some vehicles will electronically disengage and put you in neutral whilst idling and stopped, our Magnas of all generation are not in this category.

So have you ever thought it could be your transmission?

I'm looking at getting my Transmission reconditioned by the end of the year, so will see if this has any effect.

Hi RuSSiaN and all with TR 2.6l 4cyl engines

If you have never had the ISC motor replaced before it is the first thing to check
I used to own a 5 speed Man ( so there is no issue with the auto being the problem)

When I did mine you could get a Repco exchange unit for approx.$100

Note: If you notice a short (1/2 sec) buzzing sound when you swich Ignition on, consistently- it's the ISC and that is usually a sign that it could be o.k.
(An irregular buzzing is sure to be a problem)

It is mounted on the throttle body and from memory you only need to undo 3 screws to remove it

Cheers Barry :cool:

your injectors are at the base(top side) of your inlet manifold were it joins the head. The tube they sit in is called a fuel rail, and each of them has a plug on them. having your injectors cleaned properly is best left to a specialist as they use hi-tec equiptment to ultrasonically clean them.

Hope this helps

Yes it sure does, I am leaving complex maintainance to the experts. I mean my vibrations are not that obvious, probably have a pro mech to check it out later.

Cheers!

Check the following for a starter.

Dist shaft, this is a very common problem in all older cars, Mits being no exception. This will cause the timing to "bounce" around especially at idle, the ECU is constantly compensating. In the 2nd gen the dist is what tells the ecu what position the engine is at.

O2 sensor

Water Temp sensor

Check your engine is reaching full operating temp

fuel pressure at idle

Clean TB

Clean PCV valve

Good seals expecially dipstick etc, this will cause air leaks as the crankcase is a sealed system. Fords are especially bad for this, try telling an owner of an eb falcon that the little smear of leaking oil at the front of the head is responsible for the rough idle, fuel consumption and bad running.

plugs, leads, dist cap and rotor, leads etc

Clean injectors (ultra sonic) and replace injector seals

I use platinum in my car, replace them every 40k or so

have you checked your engine mounts?

It seems people are posting about vibrations and people posting about 'rough idle', which does not constitute to a single problem, however one can cause the other to occur.

ie. a rough idle, a engine that cannot keep a constant speed (ie it changes +/- 200rpm constantly) can cause vibrations.

On the otherhand, you may have a nice idle (like my 2nd gen) but vibrations do occur, in my case my driveline components are old, the auto gearbox itself hasn't been rebuilt for over 250,000km.

have you checked your engine mounts?

Yeah they are fine.

This mission continues.

Replaced Spark Plugs / Dist Cap / Rotor - Leads are new'ish.

Car starts perfect, however idle sucks still.

Had a Transmission Service at Mitsubishi in Footscray, had TPS cleaned, Base idle Reset.

Still not much of an improvement in idle, only acceleration & gear changes nice.

Next Part is to get my Injectors Carbon Cleaned & Fuel Filter
(Will advice if this makes anymore difference.)

Then after this will be the hoses & the O2 Sensor

Slowly check all/change these things.

Good sites for others;
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/roughidle.htm
http://www.misterfixit.com/ruffidle.htm


If anyone has more ideas please advise, Just wanted to say thanks to all those ppl who have replied.

This mission continues.

Replaced Spark Plugs / Dist Cap / Rotor - Leads are new'ish.

Car starts perfect, however idle sucks still.

Had a Transmission Service at Mitsubishi in Footscray, had TPS cleaned, Base idle Reset.

Still not much of an improvement in idle, only acceleration & gear changes nice.

Next Part is to get my Injectors Carbon Cleaned & Fuel Filter
(Will advice if this makes anymore difference.)

Then after this will be the hoses & the O2 Sensor

Slowly check all/change these things.

Good sites for others;
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Troubleshooting/roughidle.htm
http://www.misterfixit.com/ruffidle.htm


If anyone has more ideas please advise, Just wanted to say thanks to all those ppl who have replied.

I have had all of the above done plus more to my car, and with no avail.

The tranny reco sounds like the best idea (most logical)

I have had all of the above done plus more to my car, and with no avail.

The tranny reco sounds like the best idea (most logical)


Vacum hoses? TPS&valves?

I plan on getting these things done, checking if they make any difference before I get the transmission done, that way I know I've got basically a brand new Engine with parts.

Will keep this part updated, you never know what it could be!! :cool:

Had my cars TPS switch changed, its running 90% better, hardly any vibration, the part when looked at was wearing away with a green colour :confused: , wasnt telling the engline that the car is in idle.

very happy outcome. :)

Had my cars TPS switch changed, its running 90% better, hardly any vibration, the part when looked at was wearing away with a green colour :confused: , wasnt telling the engline that the car is in idle.

very happy outcome. :)

Sorry, what is TPS? Not familiar with all these terms. lol
I thought it could just be an engine mount problem.

Sorry, what is TPS? Not familiar with all these terms. lol
I thought it could just be an engine mount problem.

Throttle Position Sensor,

Engine Mount is a simple step in this problem and only like a first thing to check

Interesting Read,

I have just bought a Magna TF Advance, 98 model and I too have a rough Idle while sitting at the lights.

I have observed that mine plays up in neutral as well which doesnt seem to happen to other people who have stated it only occurs in drive.
That concerns me a bit as maybe mine is not so typical as what everyone else has observed.

Mine seems to idel nicely but every 15 secs or so goes rough then back to smooth in a few secs.

Reminds me of my 85 corona when it was cold except that did it pretty constantly till it warmed up.

I plan on getting the timing belt and spark plugs changed as the car has done 94 thousand and seeing I just bought it, I would rather get all the 100 thousand kms type maintenance done now and get it out of the way.

Just had my transmission serviced yesterday for the same reason as above and they found no problem with the transmission at all.

I will keep an eye on this thread and see how you all get on with your attempts at getting a smooth idle.

Interesting Read,

I have just bought a Magna TF Advance, 98 model and I too have a rough Idle while sitting at the lights.

I have observed that mine plays up in neutral as well which doesnt seem to happen to other people who have stated it only occurs in drive.
That concerns me a bit as maybe mine is not so typical as what everyone else has observed.

Mine seems to idel nicely but every 15 secs or so goes rough then back to smoot in a few secs.

Reminds me of my 85 corona when it was cold except that did it pretty constantly till it warmed up.

I plan on getting the timing belt and spark plugs changed as the car has done 94 thousand and seeing I just bought it, I would rather get all the 100 thousand kms type maintenance done now and get it out of the way.

Just had my transmission serviced yesterday for the same reason as above and they found no problem with the transmission at all.

I will keep an eye on this thread and see how you all get on with your attempts at getting a smooth idle.
This thread died about 2 months ago. Thanks for bringing it back to life. :rant:

But just out of curiosity, have you checked all your engine mounts? As they might be worn out.

I have not checked this as yet but thanks for your suggestion.

I gave the TPS a clean today, and yes its seems to vibrate less!
May just buy a new one when I am back next year. Any ideas how much the TPS cost?
Unless I have mentioned the wrong component here.

I gave the TPS a clean today, and yes its seems to vibrate less!
May just buy a new one when I am back next year. Any ideas how much the TPS cost?
Unless I have mentioned the wrong component here.


I got the old one replaced, the guy at mitsubishi gave me the old one and showed be the build of sh*t on it. Now it vibrates smoothly, cannot been visually as bad as it got, also used to vibrate rougher in hotter weather.

Depending on the brand, no-brand is about $200, Mitsubishi Original around $350+

I run Premium petrol in it, find this helps.

Still need to get Injectors cleaned properly & eventually get trans rebuild when I get some $$$

good luck with it

Interesting Read,

I have just bought a Magna TF Advance, 98 model and I too have a rough Idle while sitting at the lights.

I have observed that mine plays up in neutral as well which doesnt seem to happen to other people who have stated it only occurs in drive.
That concerns me a bit as maybe mine is not so typical as what everyone else has observed.

Mine seems to idel nicely but every 15 secs or so goes rough then back to smooth in a few secs.

Reminds me of my 85 corona when it was cold except that did it pretty constantly till it warmed up.

I plan on getting the timing belt and spark plugs changed as the car has done 94 thousand and seeing I just bought it, I would rather get all the 100 thousand kms type maintenance done now and get it out of the way.

Just had my transmission serviced yesterday for the same reason as above and they found no problem with the transmission at all.

I will keep an eye on this thread and see how you all get on with your attempts at getting a smooth idle.


Ignore the useless posts. (Articuno)

I'd assume you did a search, because theres a few causes for this problem and may not be the TPS, however if you have a good mechanic get them to check the component out..

Leads, upgraded spark plus NGK, rotor/dizzy cap will help not only the idle but the way the car starts.


good luck with it, the car should not be doing this at 94K, check injectors also.

keep us notified :)

I gave the TPS a clean today, and yes its seems to vibrate less!
May just buy a new one when I am back next year. Any ideas how much the TPS cost?
Unless I have mentioned the wrong component here.

Hi
I was just wondering what steps you took to clean the TPS

Thanks Buddy

I got the old one replaced, the guy at mitsubishi gave me the old one and showed be the build of sh*t on it. Now it vibrates smoothly, cannot been visually as bad as it got, also used to vibrate rougher in hotter weather.

Depending on the brand, no-brand is about $200, Mitsubishi Original around $350+

I run Premium petrol in it, find this helps.

Still need to get Injectors cleaned properly & eventually get trans rebuild when I get some $$$

good luck with it

Hi RuSSiaN

Can you give me some details on where the corrosion build-up was
Maybe I can work out a fix

Cheers Barry

Hi RuSSiaN

Can you give me some details on where the corrosion build-up was
Maybe I can work out a fix

Cheers Barry


Hi Barry,

The Corrosion build up was on the actual switch/sensor of the tps, theres 4/5 metal components where it sits, this is where i got a build of crap, sort of a light greeny color - did not look to healthy.

The switch gets told when to 'flick' from side to side, the corrosion was probably not allowing it to get the right signal.
There for the idle was very bad.

hope this helps

cheers
RuSSiaN

Hi
I was just wondering what steps you took to clean the TPS

Thanks Buddy

Ur...dont want to give wrong advise buddy, let me double check before I answer. There was someone who posted oh using what to clean and better discription etc...
I will get back to you once I confirm the details.

Cheers!

Ignore the useless posts. (Articuno)
Baaah

Hi
I was just wondering what steps you took to clean the TPS

Thanks Buddy

I am glad I checked, I looked again, its not the TPS. Its the PVC elbow joint. Cleaning it reduces the vibrations a bit not total 100% cured.

Cheers!

Interesting Read,

I have just bought a Magna TF Advance, 98 model and I too have a rough Idle while sitting at the lights.

I have observed that mine plays up in neutral as well which doesnt seem to happen to other people who have stated it only occurs in drive.
That concerns me a bit as maybe mine is not so typical as what everyone else has observed.

Mine seems to idel nicely but every 15 secs or so goes rough then back to smooth in a few secs.

Reminds me of my 85 corona when it was cold except that did it pretty constantly till it warmed up.

I plan on getting the timing belt and spark plugs changed as the car has done 94 thousand and seeing I just bought it, I would rather get all the 100 thousand kms type maintenance done now and get it out of the way.

Just had my transmission serviced yesterday for the same reason as above and they found no problem with the transmission at all.

I will keep an eye on this thread and see how you all get on with your attempts at getting a smooth idle.

I agree it's a good idea to replace spark plugs now. Members report good results using NGK platinum or Iridium all round (front and rear)

One thing I suggest you do yourself is thoroughly clean the PCV valve before it goes in for service

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=321675&postcount=1

Second thing is to check for any sign of air leaking after the MASensor which can upset air-fuel ratios. Use a 25mm plastic tube like a stethoscope and listen around TB and plenum.

Hope you can keep us informed

Cheers Buddy

Interesting Read,
Mine seems to idel nicely but every 15 secs or so goes rough then back to smooth in a few secs.

:doubt: I had this problem. Turned out to be a blown head, corroded and warped head :cry: . Might wanna get that one checked out before it gets too bad

Thanks for all the suggestions guys :D

I have been progressing slowly with things(mainly due to it costing a fortune!)
Yesterday had the timing and other belts changed due to car having done close to 100kms.

Next will be the spark plugs.

Several people who know a lot more than me about cars have said not to worry about it but it is irritating me.

I know it is nothing major as the car got a clean bill of health from the RACV but the shudder it gives when idling reminds me of the symptoms I got when my old 85 corona was cold after its first start and hadnt completly warmed up.

I will let you guys know when the spark plugs have been replaced and then see what I do from there.

May let the bank balance recover a bit before doing much else :D