Well, a workmate just happened to have a G-Tech fall into his lap at lunchtime today, so like good little boys we went to get a baseline 400m time.

We went to our No.2 fave local road with a 2km straight, good seal and virtually no traffic.

2200-2400 rpm, dropped the clutch, the tyres bit well, and was off. Bounced off 6,000, second, all the way to 6G again.

Hit third, didn't seem to have the torque I normally have. Also oncoming car ahead. Got it up to 6G again, shifted into 4th.

After what seemed like an eternity (and with car still oncoming), I backed off a bit at what I thought was 400m, turns out I was 50m short! 400m tripped just before I passed the car.

End result - Standing 400m in 16.69sec, 137.1kmh terminal, 16.8degrees, 42%humidity, barometric 1019.5 hpa (checked local weather station on the net soon as I got back).

Note this is a 3.0L TF sedan, 5 speed manual, 91RON in the tank, 2x12" subs (and box) in car, along with my beefy 100kg mate. The exhaust still has a hole in it just after 1st muffler, and it's due for timing belt (overdue). Also the battery is on it's last legs (low voltage). Otherwise it's all stock. Made 113kW ATW at Dyno day (see sig)

I was hoping for a flat 16, but wasn't to be. Hopefully will find a time when it is quieter, put at least 95 RON in it, hold the foot flat for the full 400m, and get rid of the sub box and the beefy mate.

Anyone else G-Teched themselves?

I havent taken my car to get 'G-Teched'. But iknow alot of people who have and have had really inaccurate readings.

Thats why i prefer the 1/4 mile.
Go do it yourself now- see what it can do.
Prove that gtech wrong :badgrin:

I don't hold much faith in them... I don't want to sound ungrateful for being given the opportunity to use it but i was not convinced of the accuracy of it when i did.

Edit: Sorry, yes, I have used one.

U8d, neil....

Same person has put the g-tech in at the strip. It's all in how you set it up (level) as to it's accuracy. In his Torana (yeah, I know, but at least he's into cars) he is in within .2 sec of the strip equipment (usually reading slower)

Still, thought it would have gone quicker, MAYBE into the 15's. Need to launch it harder and keep the pedal down I guess.

U8d, neil....

Same person has put the g-tech in at the strip. It's all in how you set it up (level) as to it's accuracy. In his Torana (yeah, I know, but at least he's into cars) he is in within .2 sec of the strip equipment (usually reading slower)

Still, thought it would have gone quicker, MAYBE into the 15's. Need to launch it harder and keep the pedal down I guess.

head out to your nearest drag strip and get a real time......you WILL be in the 15's :D

You said you backed off 50M short... That would affect your time..

You said you backed off 50M short... That would affect your time..
Well, I think that proves that these units are inacurate. Most of us are over 6000rpm in 3rd at the 400m mark. Obviously your mate, the subs and not having the full 400 will affect the time so I'd be removing him for a start. What do you mean you bounced off 6000? 6000 means nothing.

And you're doing 140 with a mate in the car and oncoming traffic :nuts:

Gtech meters are ONLY as accurate as the person who sets it up. They have to be dead level otherwise they will give a wrong reading. My mates unit that we use has proven to be fairly close in its times.

His EVO3 has run a best of 11.92 at the drags, which he also had his Gtech connected it read 11.89

But having said the above, nothings better than doing it at the drags legally. :D

anyone know how accurate an RSM with G-sensor is?

and does anyone know what the conversion rate from power stroke (PS) to kilowatts or hp is?

my rsm only spits out power in the jap standard power stroke....

plus wouldnt it be an issue if u have bigger wheels than standard on the car ? .... as its measurement wouldnt quite be right

I used a G-tech ages ago when i had my 15" wheels on and i had heaps of wheelspin till halfway through second i dumped the clutch when the revs were too high and got a 15.9 and mine is a stock 5 speed TE with a hole in the muffler too so i can gurantee you that it will be faster maybe even quicker than that because that wheelspin slowed me down plus if you aren't carrying your mate and actually go the full 400m this time, plus i only go to 5000rpm when i race, i think i read somewhere the peak power in a magna is at 5700rpm so i don't bother going much past 5000rpm in case i break something, just to be cautious

plus wouldnt it be an issue if u have bigger wheels than standard on the car ? .... as its measurement wouldnt quite be right

you can adjust for that with the apexi rsm...

and does anyone know what the conversion rate from power stroke (PS) to kilowatts or hp is?
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/ConvPower.htm

Accuracy of the RSM vs the G-Tech should be similar since they both use just one accelerometer. The newer G-Tech like this one (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Gtech-G-Tech-Pro-RR-Model-NEW-Holden-WRX-Turbo-RX7-XR8_W0QQitemZ4573332227QQcategoryZ43808QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem) have 3 g-sensors, one for each axis, and are supposed to be much better at dealing with roads that aren't dead flat or dead straight. Or so I'm lead to believe.

MitsiMonsta: Was your rev limiter cutting in on 6000? I thought the fuel cut-off was about 6700? (V6 3.0L). Havent done it in mine, but a mate here has a TF auto and he hits the rev limiter all the time he reckons. :nuts: I dont think its worth going over 6000, the factory peak power mark is 5500rpm from memory. I think between 5500 and 6000 would be the best shift point and this is safe, hence the stock redline starting at 6200. Anything more than 6200 ya risk damage I think, even 6000 sounds high and ya start losing kw quick.

Shamous:

I have dyno'd it so I have the power curve of my engine. It's not that bad to 6K but after that it gets dire.

6000rpm all the time, no problems, no limiter, no cut-out.
Mainly 3rd gear up big hills!

Advantage of 6K shifts is that you are dumping it back into peak power figures, 5000-5500 rpm shift doesnt accelerate as quickly in my mind, but multiple passes will help to answer these questions.

I'm going to try 6000rpm changes 1st-2nd & 2nd-3rd, then 5500rpm changes thereafter.

I have dyno'd it so I have the power curve of my engine. It's not that bad to 6K but after that it gets dire.

6000rpm all the time, no problems, no limiter, no cut-out.
Mainly 3rd gear up big hills!

Advantage of 6K shifts is that you are dumping it back into peak power figures, 5000-5500 rpm shift doesnt accelerate as quickly in my mind, but multiple passes will help to answer these questions.

I'm going to try 6000rpm changes 1st-2nd & 2nd-3rd, then 5500rpm changes thereafter.

Yeah thats the go.. let us know how ya go. 6000 is a nice neat figure anyway :D. And yeah ya gotta think of what power range ya heading into with the next gear. Not having a manual in this model means I dont know the best shift points, i'm just going by what little experiece I have had in 2 TH manuals and what I used to do in my old TR 4cyl manual. Tho It had most of its power down in the lower rev ranges, and I dont think I ever had the needle over 5800rpm in it cos it was literally screaming. But yeah when I get a manual in the 3.0 lt or hopefully 3.5l I'll be using 6000 for a drag shift point I reckon.