Hi there.
Im in the process of purchasing brakes but when i went to get some there were to many types to choose and unsure on what they meant and working properties. I want sturdy pads not soft ones and i want them to last at least 100,000km.

I was told that i have to screw them on not clamp them. I didnt understand what they meant and being a bird the guy had little time to explain to me what this meant..

Can anyone explain what type iM needing and how you screw them on..

My immediate concern was that u would not like soft pads, but hard, long lasting ones (heeyyy, guys, keep your minds off the gutter now). Soft pads give u better, smoother, more controlled braking. And they dust your wheels....
Mmmhh, it's not hard to change pads, but to explain it will take long. Have u done any Search on this Forum, there might be some advice for it already?

My immediate concern was that u would not like soft pads, but hard, long lasting ones (heeyyy, guys, keep your minds off the gutter now). Soft pads give u better, smoother, more controlled braking. And they dust your wheels....
Mmmhh, it's not hard to change pads, but to explain it will take long. Have u done any Search on this Forum, there might be some advice for it already?


thanks i will have a look around forum..
yes keep it clean.. lol

thanks again
Mel

For the type of pad maybe try EBC black stuff pads, There a better then standard type pad.

As for how to change them.

Jack the car up take off the wheel,
you will see the caliper, on the caliper there will be 2 bolts on the very outside (15mm iirc)
undo the bottom one of the 2, this will allow the caliper to swing up,
Once you have done this remove the old pads,
Here's the tricky bit you will need to push the piston back, to do this you will need the appropriate tool (its called a pad spreader).
some of the spreaders will require u to put the old pad in so it doesnt damage the piston.
When doing this keep a check on your brake master cylinder (it may overflow).
now that u have pushed the piston back put the shim plates( the metal things)off the old pads onto the new pads place them back in and put the bolt back in.

MAKE SURE YOU ONLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME.

if you have any further enquiries just pm me and i'll try and help

cheers

brad

Hi there.
Im in the process of purchasing brakes but when i went to get some there were to many types to choose and unsure on what they meant and working properties. I want sturdy pads not soft ones and i want them to last at least 100,000km.

I was told that i have to screw them on not clamp them. I didnt understand what they meant and being a bird the guy had little time to explain to me what this meant..

Can anyone explain what type iM needing and how you screw them on..

Harder longer lasting pads are also usually metal based, as in they have metallic substance mixed in with the braking compound. While they generally last longer (all depends on driving style) they will eat your brake discs (rotors) out allot quicker than a soft compound pad.

Hi there.
Im in the process of purchasing brakes but when i went to get some there were to many types to choose and unsure on what they meant and working properties. I want sturdy pads not soft ones and i want them to last at least 100,000km.

I was told that i have to screw them on not clamp them. I didnt understand what they meant and being a bird the guy had little time to explain to me what this meant..

Can anyone explain what type iM needing and how you screw them on..

i dont think you will get anything that will last 100,000km's but you can certainly get longer lasting ones.. bendix makes some which i think are called "steel kings" or something like that.. it might be metal king.. i dunno but anyway my dad has them on his van and they seem to last a good amount of time and they still pull the car up well enough. Obviously they dont offer the kind of performance as softer pads, so its kind of a trade off, but if your not going to be doing much fast driving and you'll just be using the car for normal driving then these will be fine, but as previously said they will wear out your rotors quicker.

You dont have to screw brake pads in, you just simply push the old ones out, then pop the new ones back in. If you have never changed brake pads before its probably a good idea to have someone with you to supervise who has done it before, or conversely buy a workshop manual and follow those instructions

good luck :cool:

lol, I was hoping for some pictures. Hey maybe the next time anyone of you do it, maybe you can help to contribute by giving us some pics? Its just a request, as I am not sure about the part where you guys refer to the piston etc....sounds complicated, wasnt confident to do it myself. lol

Thanks in advance. as this will really help a lot of us beginners to do it.

Bendix "metal kings" (there not called this anymore, there H.D. now i think) are a performance/heavy duty based pad, or so bendix say. They arent to bad but they do chew the crap out of your rotors. They say there recommended for active driving styles. lol. With a 400c fade point

if your after a cheap pad then try ferrodo or silverline pads will only set you back about $35
and there good for about 50,000k of easy driving.

maybe next time i change my brakes i will document the process with pictures for the newbies out there.. although no doubt someone will come along and say "that RJL25 doesnt know anything, dont follow his advice it will fck everything up" :nuts:

maybe next time i change my brakes i will document the process with pictures for the newbies out there.. although no doubt someone will come along and say "that RJL25 doesnt know anything, dont follow his advice it will fck everything up" :nuts:


Depends on how you do it, if its the wrong way or the difficult way then yeah i will bag you for it and tell people not to follow your advice. :badgrin:

Depends on how you do it, if its the wrong way or the difficult way then yeah i will bag you for it and tell people not to follow your advice. :badgrin:

theres really only one way to change brake pads tho now isnt there... you either do it right or you do it wrong

theres really only one way to change brake pads tho now isnt there... you either do it right or you do it wrong


True lets see how u do it lol

Dont take to much offense to what i say.

Been in the car game long enough to know a thing or 2, and have sold enough of the parts to the weekend warriors(worriers) and real mechanics to see what works and what doesnt.

And get alot of my knowledge from varying different people in the know.
U cant learn a whole lot reading it in a book or from surfing the net.

Yee, but only if u tell them to have sips of the brake fluid inbetween bleedings. :bowrofl:


.. although no doubt someone will come along and say "that RJL25 doesnt know anything, dont follow his advice it will fck everything up" :nuts:

True lets see how u do it lol

Dont take to much offense to what i say.

Been in the car game long enough to know a thing or 2, and have sold enough of the parts to the weekend warriors(worriers) and real mechanics to see what works and what doesnt.

And get alot of my knowledge from varying different people in the know.
U cant learn a whole lot reading it in a book or from surfing the net.

why do you assume you are the only person who has lots of experience in the car industry?? stuff all of my information comes from books or the internet, the vast majority of it comes from my own personal experiences, experiences of other people i know, talking to people in the know, and just a hint of common sense thrown in for good measure

perhaps you should make sure you know what your talking about before you make assumptions as to where someone gains their information from!

Back on topic though, magna girl, changing your pads is cheap enough to have a mechanic do them, just ask if you can watch what they do so you can learn aswell.

Most mech shops only charge about $50 for labour, Its advised aswell to get the disc's machined aswell not always necessary but thats upto you

Back on topic though, magna girl, changing your pads is cheap enough to have a mechanic do them, just ask if you can watch what they do so you can learn aswell.

Most mech shops only charge about $50 for labour, Its advised aswell to get the disc's machined aswell not always necessary but thats upto you

that i WILL agree with lol

its not really worth doing it yourself unless you have someone who knows what there doing their to advise you, watching a mechanic doing it is a perfect way to learn how to do it

Cool guys, just document it when the next time you do change them. Instead of ppl here saying that dont follow the advise I would rather just have them pointing some right directions to follow if someone does the documenting wrong slightly. People do make mistakes, we are only human but it takes a lot of effort for one to take photos and give good directions, and they will definately have my support for trying to help.

Thanks for all the recommendations so far, at least I got a rough idea what sort of brake pads I am looking for now.

Back on topic though, magna girl, changing your pads is cheap enough to have a mechanic do them, just ask if you can watch what they do so you can learn aswell.

Most mech shops only charge about $50 for labour, Its advised aswell to get the disc's machined aswell not always necessary but thats upto you


Thanks i think i will do it that way. As i would love to learn how to but maybe not this first time..I maybe keen but not that keen as it sounds complicated.. But thanks all the same for the advice. will shooping this wk end..

Thanks to all for the advice.. :)

**** how do u get 50000km out of your break pads i seem to replace mine every freaking 10k km

**** how do u get 50000km out of your break pads i seem to replace mine every freaking 10k km
Mine lasted about 60,000... are your rotors in good nick?... oh and just drive with the one foot on either of the pedals... not both at the same time lol :P

**** how do u get 50000km out of your break pads i seem to replace mine every freaking 10k km

try driving smoother or something.. that wear is pretty excessive

driven hard i get about 15,000 driven normally i get about 35-40,000 but my rotors are buggered and chew the pads excessively

driven hard i get about 15,000 driven normally i get about 35-40,000 but my rotors are buggered and chew the pads excessively

how much changing those rotors? well at least you ar belivable lol. 10000Ks is quite bad.

Hence NOBODY but my self touches my car's brakes..... There are so many "professionals" out in workshops - just no way I could trust them blindly on some matters.
Sorry - that's me!
And obviously RJL25 as well, I can see. :cool:


... the vast majority of it comes from my own personal experiences, experiences of other people i know, talking to people in the know, and just a hint of common sense thrown in for good measure
perhaps you should make sure you know what your talking about before you make assumptions as to where someone gains their information from!

how much changing those rotors? well at least you ar belivable lol. 10000Ks is quite bad.


Well maybe you drive an Auto.. I have a manual and use the clutsh and excelator to control speed more than my brakes.. Its better and sounds good with my exhaust :)..

I am mainly replacing back brakes which are my hand brake ones(I maybe wrong). I have had car for over 3yrs never needed to replace them before now.. So whether you choose to believe me or not doesnt phase me in the slightest..
For the rest of you, thanks for the helpful advice. Will let you know what i decide when the time and dollars match up... :)

Well maybe you drive an Auto.. I have a manual and use the clutsh and excelator to control speed more than my brakes.. Its better and sounds good with my exhaust :)..

I am mainly replacing back brakes which are my hand brake ones(I maybe wrong). I have had car for over 3yrs never needed to replace them before now.. So whether you choose to believe me or not doesnt phase me in the slightest..
For the rest of you, thanks for the helpful advice. Will let you know what i decide when the time and dollars match up... :)

Your rear brakes are also used to slow/stop the car. The handbrake uses a seperate drum setup within the rear hub witch has it's own friction material (shoes) that may need replaycing some time in the cas life.

But yes being a manual you generally use the brakes less, but having all four brakes running 100% is still important obviouslly :P

10K is about all i get in pads before they start to wear out (go hard) i have a manual as well

the clutch can only do soo much they put the brake there for something:bowrofl:


but i do drive abnormally

Oh yeah of course I agree Auto use their brakes way more than a Manual. For Autos normally is a change every year as an average driving use. This is just being safe for the car. Manuals can always engine brake so definately use less of brakes.