hey guys

I need to adjust my handbrake before 2morrow night. atm only the left rear wheel will lock up so when im doing my burnout before i race the car pivots and starts spinning around. This sux because i cannot get enough heat into the tyres before the car starts to drag forward.

I've looked under the console where the 2 cables come into one just behind the handbrake lever and the cables are not even, the left hand side is further forward than the right hand side(if that makes sense)

any help would be appreciated.

Jase

BTW-2002 TJ if your curious

adjust up the right cable, if that doesnt help then the adjustment will have to be made in the drum

More than likely going to have to balance them out by adjusting through the small hole found in the rear rotor....There should be a small rubber plug (hole is aobut 10mm), if you remove this plug you will see (hard to see as inside rotor) a small barrel shaped wheel with some teeth across the side of it. If you get a screw driver in there you should be albe to turn this up and down which will adjust the hadnbrake for that side....Its always best to take both wheels off when doing this as it can be quite a juggle to get them balanced.....ive acutally gotta to the same to mine at the moment but just too lazy!

More than likely going to have to balance them out by adjusting through the small hole found in the rear rotor....There should be a small rubber plug (hole is aobut 10mm), if you remove this plug you will see (hard to see as inside rotor) a small barrel shaped wheel with some teeth across the side of it. If you get a screw driver in there you should be albe to turn this up and down which will adjust the hadnbrake for that side....Its always best to take both wheels off when doing this as it can be quite a juggle to get them balanced.....ive acutally gotta to the same to mine at the moment but just too lazy!



Ditto couldnt be bothered, but thats the way to do it

Additional hints:
As said, lift the butt up and do both drums. Loosen the cable inside first, so that it's not pulling (=braking) to avoid that to mess up with your drum adjustments.
The adjusting screws work differently - one side u need to "wheel" it up to tighten the shoe towards the drum, and the other side screw it downwards - U'll figure out what I mean when u start it.
Adjust them so that the drum starts just to touch, then perhaps back off a bit - u don't want them to drag...
Then adjust the cables inside, monitoring that each wheel gets equal setting/braking. It's quite fiddly and it helps if u have a helper to pull and release the handbrake lever.
Good rule is that 3 clicks on lever and the drum should be so thight u cannot hand-turn it.
When released, drum should rotate freely.

My prob is, that the adjustments don't hold... and I'm still in process of figuring out what to do to fix it. I have used thread clue already, but not enuff and it slipped again. New pins cost some 90 bux each....!!!!
Good luck!

Additional hints:
As said, lift the butt up and do both drums. Loosen the cable inside first, so that it's not pulling (=braking) to avoid that to mess up with your drum adjustments.
The adjusting screws work differently - one side u need to "wheel" it up to tighten the shoe towards the drum, and the other side screw it downwards - U'll figure out what I mean when u start it.
Adjust them so that the drum starts just to touch, then perhaps back off a bit - u don't want them to drag...
Then adjust the cables inside, monitoring that each wheel gets equal setting/braking. It's quite fiddly and it helps if u have a helper to pull and release the handbrake lever.
Good rule is that 3 clicks on lever and the drum should be so thight u cannot hand-turn it.
When released, drum should rotate freely.

My prob is, that the adjustments don't hold... and I'm still in process of figuring out what to do to fix it. I have used thread clue already, but not enuff and it slipped again. New pins cost some 90 bux each....!!!!
Good luck!


Id suggest leaving the cables attached, if you remove them then adjust the shoes then reattach cables the adjustment will be different.

Yep id say mechanic will have to do it... if they are uneven they need adjusting at the wheels.. :D

Why u even need to do a burnout on slicks? :nuts: Just pop the clutch a bit thats enough heat. :D Nice avatar btw mate, I like the angle.

Why u even need to do a burnout on slicks? :nuts: Just pop the clutch a bit thats enough heat. :D Nice avatar btw mate, I like the angle.
i was under the impression its actually very important to heat up slicks.....

i was under the impression its actually very important to heat up slicks.....


Im with numbnuts, but just watch that diff... :bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

Im with numbnuts, but just watch that diff... :bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl:
meh, joys of an LSD!!!!
i learnt the hard way with my old TS-that hurt!

OOOO didnt know that. :P

Sorry....... gremlin your inbox must be full.

Id suggest leaving the cables attached, if you remove them then adjust the shoes then reattach cables the adjustment will be different.

He said losen cables at the handbrake lever, not remove them. :P

Yeps - if the cables at the handbrake-lever end are slightly tightened, one will not be able to adjust the shoe to the drum correctly (cos the cable is already pulling the shoe). Hence u do need to loosen the cable sufficiently. My apologies if I didn't explain this clearly enuff. After all, I trusted Tza to know most of the stuff anyway and that he would be able to apply the extra info appropriately. But yee, for those who don't know enuff, clear hints are required. :redface:



He said losen cables at the handbrake lever, not remove them. :P

a LSD centre doesn't make the gears any stronger, just puts more torque through them and possibly making them more prone to damage.

ok so when u adjust the handbrake you set the shoes to lightly touch the drum , then pull the cables tight. This would make the shoes rub harder against the drum. Leave the cables well alone just adjust the shoes. only an idiot would loosen off the cables then retighten them after THIS THROWS THE ADJUSTMENT OUT. and will make them to tight

only a not so intelligent person would loosen off the cables then retighten them after THIS THROWS THE ADJUSTMENT OUT. and will make them to tight

Agreed, I originally interpreted the post as loosen the cables and adjust the drum, for the purpose of preventing overstretching the cables over time.

Sigh. Thanks for calling me idiot. Moron.
Of course u go and adjust the cable as they should be! But only AFTER u have adjusted the shoe to the drum, then u adjust the cable so that it activates both wheels in similar equal manner. If u still don't get this, stop reading and take your car to a mecho, don't touch the brakes.
Got it!


ok so when u adjust the handbrake you set the shoes to lightly touch the drum , then pull the cables tight. This would make the shoes rub harder against the drum. Leave the cables well alone just adjust the shoes. only an idiot would loosen off the cables then retighten them after THIS THROWS THE ADJUSTMENT OUT. and will make them to tight

Sigh. Thanks for calling me idiot. Moron.
Of course u go and adjust the cable as they should be! But only AFTER u have adjusted the shoe to the drum, then u adjust the cable so that it activates both wheels in similar equal manner. If u still don't get this, stop reading and take your car to a mecho, don't touch the brakes.
Got it!

hate to burst your bubble twat i am a mechanic and thats how they are done, you adjust the cable so its even then take the rest up in the drum not the other way around otherwise the shoe will drag to much. Adjust the drum last as to get the drag even then it will be right. The previous owner of the car tried doing it your way and it f$%ked it good n proper,
i asked the other mechanic(35years experience) at our workshop how he would do it and he said adjust the cables so there even then adjust the shoes accordingly.

just another thing here it does take much sense to realize that if u adjust the shoe first then the cable it will change the shoe adjustment, so cable first (only if necessary) then adjust the shoe. Not overly difficult takes about 30minutes.

Tweet tweet twat or what ever.
I see. Who said one adjusts the cable so much that it starts to drag the shoe to the drum? Of course not. U do it your way and u'll be happy with it.
Funny how u make everybody else seem like they know nothing. Of course we are all stupid!

Mate of mine had his car engine done by a "professional mechanic". Blew up in few months time, due to incorrectly done work. Details not included.
Another "professional sparkie" installed fittings without earthing them as required by law.
A "professional tiler" didn't waterproof (membrane) shower base as required by quote.
I guess we all could continue for ever about "professional licensed trades people”. Of course they are not as bad as some - I have heard there is an honest trades guy somewhere in Northern WA. Any one seen him?
Ah, talking about the skills of professionals - don't u just looove taxi drivers.
Sorry - did u say you're a mecho? Ah, in that case your word (and your mates') must be correct.
I shall withdraw from this case now.



just another thing here it does take much sense to realize that if u adjust the shoe first then the cable it will change the shoe adjustment, so cable first (only if necessary) then adjust the shoe. Not overly difficult takes about 30minutes.

you take off the plastic stuff around the handbrake there is a thread on the cable

the rear disks are self adjusting

to read the attachment click on the bottom right hand corner to magnify

seems a frequently asked question


Talk about digging up all threads..:P

Even easier than remove screws and stuff..

Take the tube out of the console and it under there.. 30 sec job..:P

see attachments (this is the first gen set up )click on the bottom r/h to enlarge the pic

yes ego I can see your point

I also use it as an excuse to get the money and wrappers out :P

I guess you might try to adjust it through this cover(first pic)
If you cant get the spanner into that space to turn the nut

then you have to take out that end console

I was always taught to inspect the cables for wear and broken wires
at any adjustment add a dab of grease etc make sure the cables are even

can you post a pic of this tube that you are mentioning ?


I thought there was a bigger gap to get to hand brake.. its way small.. best to remove console..:)

ok tried to do my handbrake today.. undo the wheels and the little cap that covers the brake... then comes the part which i am totally confused... i insert a flat head screw driver to???
what do i turn... tired turning the wheel round and round but could not find any hole where i should slot the screw driver in...can anyone advice please....

to everyone:

Handbrake on the 3rd gens is not self adjusting, thats why it has the wheel jobbies.

And the folks who posted up that you have to release the handbrake cable adjustment first and then adjust up the drums, then re-adjust the cable to the correct tension are ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. It says exactly this in the FACTORY REPAIR MANUAL.

haha dig up one of my old threads!!

you wanna know the funniest thing, i currently have no handbrake and it should be getting fixed tomorrow :bowrofl:

haha dig up one of my old threads!!
you wanna know the funniest thing, i currently have no handbrake and it should be getting fixed tomorrow :bowrofl:

No hand brake yet....!!!! And this post is almost older than your self. Geesshhh.... shameshameshame. :rant: