Hi there, I have did a search on this and saw some who tried and failed. For my TE, is it ok just to flush from the transmission oil dump and add new fluid through the dip stick area?
Please give some advise if possible.


I also want to know why the heck did Mitsubishi gave 5L auto fluid without any indication marks!!! How the heck am I going to judge how much fluid to replace for 7.8L?

Thanks in advance.

Its alright, I have done it. Use the pour 5L method and lower my car from the ramp and pour the rest bit by bit till its between the two marks.

AFT filter is expensive due to its manufactured in Japan. bummer.

Its best to do this with an Oil catch pan that has litre marks on it - they have them at K-Mart - plastic ones for a few bucks. Generally you'll get 6L out of the dump, so you put 6L back in - easy! BTW buy the 'SP3' ATF fluid at the Mitsu dealers - vastly cheaper than anywhere else.

Hey Nexus.

Was it hard to change the transmission oil?

If its not, I might tackle this myself as well..

yeh i need to do mine also, maybe a FAQ or somthing would be handy

Bloody...*#@ lol and I was asking for help. Kidding. :)

Yes it is easy. And Yes please buy SP3 for Mitsubishi. If you are TE, Dont buy 2 X 5L like I did. I dunno wtf am I going to do with remaining 4L. If only someone told me earlier lol.

For TE, buy 1 X 5L and 1X 1L of ATF fluid. Apprently it was suppose to be SP2 in my manual as indicated but now its all SP3 and it works fine.

You have to buy MI-MD752072 Oil Filter-A/T Case which is about $30.00, yeah its made in Japan just buy it.

Step 1 drive car onto ramps. Or jack your car

Step 2 get the oil pan( a deep one) for the transmission oil to drip into.

Step 3 if you are afraid of how much fluid to pour in, put markings on the side, borrow some engine oil and duplicate markings as a rough gauge.

Step 4. Release nut with metal washer to release the oil. DO NOT FULLY Release the nut as it will gush out. I would rather do it slowly. Take note, do it on Sunny day as less wind etc....If you have indoor garage better yet.

Step 5 when most oil has dripped out, loosen the nut totally.

Step 6 Work on the AT Filter located on the top. You will need to move the hoses a bit to gain some access, but no big deal, can be done. Like Engine oil filter turn anti-clockwise to loosen it.

Step 7 Once loosen, you may turn it out with your fingers. DO IT Slowly!!! More oil will drip down as you are turning out the filter. let it drip before fully turning it out. Once you hear the dripping stop, carry on to remove it completely. A question will be in your mind at this moment thinking" How the F am I going to take out the filter with so little access?"

Step 8 Remove it from the Left Hand side under the hoses, you will roughly know what I mean when you get to this stage, as you cant just remove straight from the top due to the limited space unless you remove other things from the car.

Step 9 put thin layer of ATF fluid on the new filter and finger thight it back on from how you remove, you place it back same way. Before doing so clean up that area from the old fluid remains with a clean cloth.

Step 10 Use your oil filter wrench to tighten it back, 3/4 turn as indicated on the filter box.
Wipe all access oil that may have leaked from the old filter, hoses, pipes etc...clean it.

Step 11, Before you pour into the dip stick area, I flushed with a bit of new ATF oil and let it drip before closing back the nut. Once that is done, as said its at least 5L of fluid so normally I pour the whole 5L into the dump through a funnel from the dip stick area. Funnels are cheap from super cheap auto, 99cents?
Once you are done, put back the dip stick. and close your bonnet.

Step 12 Start engine and Reverse car off the ramp slowly. Lower your jack if you used Jacking method and remove the jack away from the car and start your engine.

Step 13 Apply your brakes , and go through each transmission from P to L slowly, and go back to N to stop your car. Remove dip stick and clean it, and reinsert it back in to check level, If level is not enough, top up remaining Fluid from your new 1L bottle a bit at a time to check the levels between the 2 marks.

Once its at acceptable level, you are done. wipe your engine compartment clean and check for leaks at your newly installed filter. If no leak, you are done. Go for a test drive and come on home to wash up.

I really feel a slight difference at stops, there were less vibrations and the changing of gears seems to be better. IMO however it is norm that we tend to want to believe whatever is done feels better lol. But overall its a simple process. If only you guys would have post earlier I would have done the photos. But its ok, I think you will get by with all those instructions I gave.

Cheers!

LOL

I would have posted earlier but didnt see the thread.

Oh yeh, so we pour the fluid through the dip stick?

Is that right?

Isnt their like a cap, like for the engine oil?

Cause pouring the fluid through the dip stick will take yonkers wouldnt it?

LOL

I would have posted earlier but didnt see the thread.

Oh yeh, so we pour the fluid through the dip stick?

Is that right?

Isnt their like a cap, like for the engine oil?

Cause pouring the fluid through the dip stick will take yonkers wouldnt it?

Nope - its a tube and funnel job down the dipstick!

ahhhhhh interesting....

Is that how its normamly done then?

Down the dipstick with a funnel?

Seems awfully tiring...........

If you have Super Cheap Auto shops in your area, get the 99cents funnel, it is flexible and it fits nicely into the Auto transmission dipstick hole area. No the fluid falls through quite quickly, its like Hydraulics oil IMO. Its not like Engine oil which is slightly much thicker.

Just make sure you clean up when you are done as left over oil stains may cause damage to other components. I should have taken photos and document it like the fuel filter change, but the day wasnt looking too bright so I couldnt really do it slowly.

I would suggest that you use some fresh fluid to flush through the dipstick area before closing the nut so that you could see any remaining residue that wasnt flushed. Overall its an acceptable ATF change. OH YEAH WASH YOUR HANDS as its a bit itchy if it hits your skin. I do not know how a TF or TJ for the matter the differences in mechanics etc... The only thing that I want to learn now is changing the brakes.

Hope my guide have help a few guys here.

Cheers!

the TJ's the same but easier - there's no filter to worry about and the drain plug is accessible with the car on normal ground - so no need for ramps, maybe just a bit of height with a trolley jack is all. But its a big plug - 24mm from memory - so you need some decent sized sockets.

the TJ's the same but easier - there's no filter to worry about and the drain plug is accessible with the car on normal ground - so no need for ramps, maybe just a bit of height with a trolley jack is all. But its a big plug - 24mm from memory - so you need some decent sized sockets.

Thanks SARRAS, thats interesting for me to know. For me the plug nut is the same size as the Engine dump one, so is GOOD to invest in a good socket set for this oil change procedures.

My auto needs this done, well actually it needs a service, but thats basically what a service is anyway isn't it?

Anyway, is this way any good? It just sounds too easy/dodgy to me, but correct me if i'm wrong cuz if it is that easy even i can do it :P.

Thanks for the informative thread Nexus!

Made my life easier!

No need for head scratching when it comes time for me to change my AT fluid!
lol

My auto needs this done, well actually it needs a service, but thats basically what a service is anyway isn't it?

Anyway, is this way any good? It just sounds too easy/dodgy to me, but correct me if i'm wrong cuz if it is that easy even i can do it :P.


Unfortunately I was told by another member that its not that easy on all Magnas, there are some where the filters are in the gearbox. I am only giving directions to ppl with TE model here as in my case is only 2.4L Engine. And like what others said the TJ model is easier. This is what I would recommend for flushing and changing ATF procedure. sure, there is bound to be some old oil trap in unaccesible areas, but at least I gave a good flush clean up and top up with new oil.

I recommend that you check where is the ATF filter in your car before you commence anything. And strongly recommend Original ATF filter and oil.

Was this change worth my time? Yes, the changing of auto gears appears to be smoother to me and seems to me less vibrations to some extent. I recon u have a go if your ATF is due like every 105000km

I will not say that this is difficult to do and it wasnt that easy either. Some people can find normal Engine Oil change just as difficult. Not everyone is a born mechanic that could do everything. IMO depends on individual experience. I can only provide a guide and like I said unfortunately I couldnt shoot pictures when I was doing it today. I am sure quite a number of you can do this. BUT make sure you use a CLEAN Funnel to put new oil in to avoid any contemination.

Hope the guide will help some of us here. Again thanks SARRAS for contributing valuable information.

the TJ's the same but easier - there's no filter to worry about and the drain plug is accessible with the car on normal ground - so no need for ramps, maybe just a bit of height with a trolley jack is all. But its a big plug - 24mm from memory - so you need some decent sized sockets.

is it just a matter of draining and refilling then?, no filter involved?, might do mine in 2 weeks when i'm on holidays.

ahhhhhh interesting....

Is that how its normamly done then?

Down the dipstick with a funnel?

Seems awfully tiring...........


That i guess is the same for any car. I have an '84 280E Mercedes and it's the same process, to fill it through the dipstick.

is it just a matter of draining and refilling then?, no filter involved?, might do mine in 2 weeks when i'm on holidays.

I have doubts, best is to go to Mitsubishi and ask for the price of the ATF filter if it actually has one for your model. You can then ask them where is the filter located if you cant find it.
As some have mentioned before that the filter is unaccessible in the gearbox area.

And although it is a simple procedure, it can be messy. Get some cloths ready to wipe leaks or spills.

The internal 'filter' is a wire mesh thing meant to trap broken teeth and the likes - its not a fine canister type oil filter like the TE. The internal one isn't really meant to be 'changed' as such, more like it gets cleaned at a major transmission overhaul. So yeah on the Tj and retrofitted THs - its just about changing the fluid.

If you have Super Cheap Auto shops in your area, get the 99cents funnel, it is flexible and it fits nicely into the Auto transmission dipstick hole area. No the fluid falls through quite quickly, its like Hydraulics oil IMO. Its not like Engine oil which is slightly much thicker.


My best tool ever was a $0.50 kitchen funnel and a lump of clear plastic hose from my local hardware, cost $0.60 and its awesome, the funnel sits at the height I want, and is great for filling any auto tranny.

Now what tranny oil is suitable for my TS V6??? I dont like the "genuine" stuff as its only an excuse for a higher price for a standard oil. SURELY castrol or some other manufacturer make this oil for bitsash*tty, or bistash*tty have suddenly gone into the oil refining business...........

My best tool ever was a $0.50 kitchen funnel and a lump of clear plastic hose from my local hardware, cost $0.60 and its awesome, the funnel sits at the height I want, and is great for filling any auto tranny.

Now what tranny oil is suitable for my TS V6??? I dont like the "genuine" stuff as its only an excuse for a higher price for a standard oil. SURELY castrol or some other manufacturer make this oil for bitsash*tty, or bistash*tty have suddenly gone into the oil refining business...........

Castrol, BP etc do make Transmission fluid for the Mitsubishi boxes but you'll find its dearer than the genuine stuff...

sorry, i read through this thoroughly but i couldnt see it.......where should i be looking for the bolt/plug to drain the ATF???? its a 3.5 KE verada

Mitsu recomend an auto trans flush, not just an oil change. They hook it up to a machine and flush clean auto trans fluid through it to really clean it out. I had some trans problems on a KF verada and it fixed it right up. Costs money, but sometimes its best to get things done properly.

sorry, i read through this thoroughly but i couldnt see it.......where should i be looking for the bolt/plug to drain the ATF???? its a 3.5 KE verada

Under the car there are TWO drain plugs - the one of the driver's side is for Engine Oil, the one on the passenger's side is for the ATF. Approximate locations of the plugs in the diagram below.

Mitsu recomend an auto trans flush, not just an oil change. They hook it up to a machine and flush clean auto trans fluid through it to really clean it out. I had some trans problems on a KF verada and it fixed it right up. Costs money, but sometimes its best to get things done properly.
Power flush is basically pumping in fresh fluid whilst the engine is running with AT in neutral.
They flush thru about 2x volume of fluid and allowing all to drain out, then refill.

Bit messy to DIY and 3x capacity of ATF don't come cheap.
~$200 for dealer to do it is pretty worthwhile... :cool:

Power flush is basically pumping in fresh fluid whilst the engine is running with AT in neutral.
They flush thru about 2x volume of fluid and allowing all to drain out, then refill.

Bit messy to DIY and 3x capacity of ATF don't come cheap.
~$200 for dealer to do it is pretty worthwhile... :cool:

I changed my Trans fluid last weekend. Took around 10L to flush clean. Don't wait till Mitsu recommended change. I had done only 70K and the crud that came out was horrendous. Also remember to thoughly clean the magnetic sump plug of metal puree.

Results are instantaneous. Smooth and responsive gear changes. Feels like a new car.

Genuine ATF SP3 is only $30/5L.

Results are instantaneous. Smooth and responsive gear changes. Feels like a new car.
Mons:- didja do it with the engine running?

Mitsu dealer also recommends resetting tranny ECU afterwards.
Disconnect ECU or battery for 15 mins, then reconnect
& drive like granny for ~10kms to re-train it. lol

Mons:- didja do it with the engine running?

Mitsu dealer also recommends resetting tranny ECU afterwards.
Disconnect ECU or battery for 15 mins, then reconnect
& drive like granny for ~10kms to re-train it. lol

Yeah, I followed the workshop manual.

With Tranny fluid hot,

Disconnect tranny cooler hose to Radiator, Run engine with Tranny in N at idle for 1 min (4.5L spills out). Undo sump nut (24mm - like Engine sump) - 1L spills out. Clean and retighten plug with new washer. Refill with fresh fluid through dipstick pipe.(add 5.5L) Run engine again to expel another 3L. Stop engine and add 3L to Tranny. Continue this process until the fluids run clean. (Or you run out of replacement fluid. - But don't leave yourself short)

When you're done. Refit hose and road test.

TIP - Fluid comes out of both connectors for the hose.
TIP 2- the Fluid Runs clean on one side before the other side.
TIP 3 - Fluid gushes out, is very messy. Plenty of rags necessary.
TIP 4 - Tight fitting drain hoses are a must.
TIP 5 - Get some more rags.

PS. I didn't reset ECU and My Tranny is as smooth as silk.

just remember to get a true reading of the level u need to warm the car up, not just putting the gear selector through P R N D. u need to really take it for a drive around the block so it will use all the gears then ull probably find ull need to add another half a litre. cos just sitting in the drive way wont give u a dead on reading and u want to make sure its filled up properly so theres no problems. hey nexus not saying anything against ur advice, u did a top job in explaining on diy urself tanny oil change:thumbsup: . good to see some knowlege being past on to ppl who need it, keep up the good work:D

cleaned my tranny on saturday, made a huge difference. I just drained it from the plug, took the filter off and changed it, ran 3L of fluid through, came out black, ran some more through, came out red, plugged hole and filled. All while the car was off.

Feels like a million dollars now.....

cleaned my tranny on saturday, made a huge difference. I just drained it from the plug, took the filter off and changed it, ran 3L of fluid through, came out black, ran some more through, came out red, plugged hole and filled. All while the car was off.

Feels like a million dollars now.....

Ha wat fluid did u run through it it would be a waste of money running 3l of new transmition oil threw it wouldnt it

.....Don't wait till Mitsu recommended change. I had done only 70K..... Mitsu has set the ATF services on the TJ Auto Trannys at 45K

Mitsu has set the ATF services on the TJ Auto Trannys at 45K

I doubled checked my service book.

automatic FWD oil and filter(If Applicable) change at 105K or 84 months. There is a harsh conditions provision for a change at 45K but this is not a standard service item.

Automatic 2WD oil (Rear wheel drives) change at 90K.
Automatic 4WD oil change at 45K inc. transfer case.

When I had my 45K service 2 years ago, I can assure you they did not replace my tranny fluid. My itemised invoice didn't suggest this and there is no way that much metal grinds and S#*t would have deposited in the 25K I've driven since.

Check out Magnette's post regarding what a Mitsu dealer told him.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23201&highlight=service+items

...When I had my 45K service 2 years ago, I can assure you they did not replace my tranny fluid. My itemised invoice didn't suggest this and there is no way that much metal grinds and S#*t would have deposited in the 25K I've driven since.
uhuh, had to "insist" the dealer do the powerflush @ 45k.

Given what we know, I'd be tempted to change it every 20k or at least give it
a shot DIY'ing. Even a static drain & topup wouldn't be too bad especially
for cars that do a lot of city stop-start work.

Our previous 1-owner TN had an appointment with Fluidrive every 20k...
still only lasted 200,063km. :badgrin:

Ha wat fluid did u run through it it would be a waste of money running 3l of new transmition oil threw it wouldnt it

Ran 3L of new tranny fluid through, bought 10L of the stuff, so why not....

If your transmission is totally getting problems then I won't recommend following the thread at all, just send it in to a specialist to do it. Otherwise by following the thread is for those who want to just do a straight flush and top up.

If your transmission is totally getting problems then I won't recommend following the thread at all, just send it in to a specialist to do it. Otherwise by following the thread is for those who want to just do a straight flush and top up.

Agreed, This is more a preventative thread. I wasn't having issues, But very happy I flushed my auto out.

hi, im kinda new here, ive searched the forum looked at the pic of the "approximate" location of the AT drain plug i seriously cannot find it, i have a TF 1998 magna, anyone have a close pic or sumthin ? thanks

hi, im kinda new here, ive searched the forum looked at the pic of the "approximate" location of the AT drain plug i seriously cannot find it, i have a TF 1998 magna, anyone have a close pic or sumthin ? thanks

Hi There,

Advise:

1. Bring your car up to a ramp so that you can access underneath the car.

2. You will see two drain plugs one for auto Magnas on the passanger side and the engine oil on the driver side.

3. You will recognise is the Engine sump when you notice the Oil filter is attached to the side of the sump. Ensure you know which is which before you start.

4. For the Auto trans filter, if you read the instructions here, you will notice it when you open the bonnet and is somewhere on the passanger side.

Your auto drain plug is on the passanger side of the car. Ensure you have right size socket to satrt with.

cheers!

A big shifter is a good idea to, so much more multi-purpose than the sockets.

nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooo
never use an adjustable spanner on mechnical bolts cos they are cheap and nasty. if u want to strip the drain plug use one of them. nothing is better then the right size socket.
i think there bad news , the last time i used one on a car i ended up having to drill out the bolt and use an extractor bit to get it out, the $2 spanner rounded it off for me.

nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooo
never use an adjustable spanner on mechnical bolts cos they are cheap and nasty. if u want to strip the drain plug use one of them. nothing is better then the right size socket.
i think there bad news , the last time i used one on a car i ended up having to drill out the bolt and use an extractor bit to get it out, the $2 spanner rounded it off for me.


:stoopid:

Do the above or regret you did not buy a proper socket.
It does not cost much for a new bolt from the dealers too.

hey thanks alot guyz, found it, and changed my fluid successfully, cars running sweet now. The nut is hidden kind of, like its hidden next to that plastic guard.

nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooo
never use an adjustable spanner on mechnical bolts cos they are cheap and nasty. if u want to strip the drain plug use one of them. nothing is better then the right size socket.
i think there bad news , the last time i used one on a car i ended up having to drill out the bolt and use an extractor bit to get it out, the $2 spanner rounded it off for me.


What? So long as it is adjusted right there should be no problems, unless the bolt has been over tightened.

im sorry but i disagree cos even if its set right when u go to put load on the spanner the jaws still move alittle bit cos it adjustable. its not like a vice grip where u can lock it in to a certin size. so the chances of rounding the corners is higher . sure there fine if ur working on ur pushbike but when it comes to mechcanical parts on cars id recomend using the right tool for the right job. cos striping nuts or bolts on ur engine is a pain. i know from previous experience with adjustable spanners hence why i would not recomending using them. for example im a chef and when i chop somthing really fine i use my chefs knife , where as i wouldn't use my bread knife cos its just not the right tool fore the right job.
not trying to flame ya:D , i just would use the right tool instead of going through any hassles with a $3.95 cheap tool. but thats just my opinion each to there own.

Yeah I can see what you mean, but when it a 22MM hex (?) nut a shifter will do the job.

Just because it does the job doesn't mean its the right tool. Like how you can use a flathead screwdriver in a phillips head screw, it'll work but its not the best solution.

Use a socket - you run less risk of stripping the head that way, and only amateurs use shifters :)

Buy a ring spanner - best tool for the job if you haven't got a good set of sockets.
Also works on your engine's sump plug.


Double flushed auto in my TH about 10 wks ago, oil was black! :shock:
Used Castrol TQ-M and a Repco filter as I didn't get time to go to Mitsu parts.

Dunno how long its been since last flushed, service book wasn't much help.
I souvenired some of the black fluid in a jar which has been sitting for 2 mths and
there's no sediment settling at the bottom, the fluid is homogenously black.

The socket or a proper ring spanner doesn't cost much and will maintain the shape of your bolt.

Just dont over thighten the bolt.

Cheers!