Hey everyone i wanna upgrade my braking system and was wondering if i could do a straight swap from a ralliart brake to a magna tf would that be possible and would that be any better than tf stocks?

Short answer: yes, and sh!tloads respectively. They're a direct bolt-on swap, the only proviso being that you need the Ralliart hoses (or get new ones made) and you'll need at least 16" wheels.

Forgive my ignorance, but is it true that if when you slam the brakes, if your ABS engages then your brakes are working as best as they can, and the limiting factor would be say your tires? I know in my TF I can get the ABS to engage leading me to believe that if I wanted shorter stopping distances I would be better off with gripier tires rather than stronger brakes. Correct?

Forgive my ignorance, but is it true that if when you slam the brakes, if your ABS engages then your brakes are working as best as they can, and the limiting factor would be say your tires? I know in my TF I can get the ABS to engage leading me to believe that if I wanted shorter stopping distances I would be better off with gripier tires rather than stronger brakes. Correct?
Not sure what you're getting at here. If you can't get your ABS to engage even if you're trying to (IE being brutal) then I'd say either your ABS is faulty, or something is seriously wrong with your brakes.

When your car looses traction and starts to skid, i think that's when the ABS kicks in, and unlocks the wheel and lets it roll a certain short short distance and then re-engages. Hence the chirping noise when an ABS chick in from the tyres. Skid...Skid...Skid...Skid.

But yeah pretty much whenyour tyre friction is too little to stop the car with the amount of braking power being induced, you will skid. ABS stops the skiding/locking.

Safest option. Big arse rotors; stops brakes locking under its own pressure, and really good tyres; stops loss of traction under heavy braking.

A.B.S. allows you to steer the vehicle whilst under maximum braking pressure.
It does come in handy with the standard of driving of some people that are allowed on the roads these days.

I dont think its quite the best way to upgrade brakes by just getting the ralliart brakes.

try some high performance pads such as lucas or green stuff. non of this bendix ultimates garbage.

with those top quality pads and good brake fluid you will find its 2 fold better over the stocko/std sub 80 dollar replacements.

i race with solid front rotors, drum rear, lucas pads, vented volk rims and 205 tyres and dammed if i can get it to fade driving normaly

good pads and good fluid is the key for sure, and i have tried alot of pads

I might have to get my drums replaced so I am wondering what is the best to get (Cross drilled etc), plus where can I get them cheap cheap??

Thanks

You got DRUM brakes?!? :nuts:

how much would it be for the raliart calipers and rotors?

I might have to get my drums replaced so I am wondering what is the best to get (Cross drilled etc), plus where can I get them cheap cheap??

Thanks

Discs?

how much would it be for the raliart calipers and rotors?
You should be able to pick up some second hand for under $1,000.

another easy and cheaper upgrade is put on the 2 piston pajero calipers

bolt straight on and EBC greenstuffs are available for these, They arent for the 1 piston (pbr) caliper.

U guys know what I mean... anyhow what would be a good (cheapish) brake slotted upgrade.

another easy and cheaper upgrade is put on the 2 piston pajero calipers

bolt straight on and EBC greenstuffs are available for these, They arent for the 1 piston (pbr) caliper.

Is the braking performance increase of the Pajero 2 piston calipers worth the price of them?

P.S Does anyone know how much do they usally go for? :D

i picked mine up from a wrecker for $80 for the pair. and yeah the pad area is much larger giving a better braking surface. the pads for the twin piston are nearly an inch longer and are a bit deeper, which will use all the disc surface instead of only part of it. and its meant for stopping much heavier cars aswell. There is also a better range of pads available for these (EBC greenstuffs) which arent available for the 1 piston jobbies

Forgive my ignorance, but is it true that if when you slam the brakes, if your ABS engages then your brakes are working as best as they can, and the limiting factor would be say your tires? I know in my TF I can get the ABS to engage leading me to believe that if I wanted shorter stopping distances I would be better off with gripier tires rather than stronger brakes. Correct?

i bet you cant get them to enguage at 100km/h to.. thats what its all about. Any brakes can be made to lock at low speeds or speeds around or under say 60km/h, but at higher speeds where you cant get your brakes to lock, its a matter of how fast is the brakes pulling the car up. Another factor is pedal feel and also brake fade. The better the brakes, the better the pedal feel and the less brake fade you get.

From say 40-0km/h whether you had standard brakes or not it probably wouldnt make that much difference as either brakes will just lock up straight away anyway cos even the standards are powerful enough at this speed. But at 100-0km/h is where the difference will be felt, because the upgrade more powerful brakes will wash off more speed due to their greater power at the time where the standard brakes cant get a lock up

i know that probably made little sense but i tried my best to explain it lol

not a bad explaination just one thing though standard brakes should still lock at 100kmh as they would at 60kmh. Biggest factor to this is yes tyres but also suspension aswell. limiting weight transfer is a big helper for brakes, although they tend to need more of push when theres less transfer, which is why an upgrade is always the way to go.

probably makes little or no sense to most but its not easy to explain the science behind it so i wont even try

i bet you cant get them to enguage at 100km/h to.. thats what its all about. Any brakes can be made to lock at low speeds or speeds around or under say 60km/h, but at higher speeds where you cant get your brakes to lock, its a matter of how fast is the brakes pulling the car up. Another factor is pedal feel and also brake fade. The better the brakes, the better the pedal feel and the less brake fade you get.

From say 40-0km/h whether you had standard brakes or not it probably wouldnt make that much difference as either brakes will just lock up straight away anyway cos even the standards are powerful enough at this speed. But at 100-0km/h is where the difference will be felt, because the upgrade more powerful brakes will wash off more speed due to their greater power at the time where the standard brakes cant get a lock up

i know that probably made little sense but i tried my best to explain it lol


Makes sense to me, while standard breaks are more than effective to stop a car hard enough to lock at 60km/h, they are far less effective at slowing a wheel thats moving say at 120km/h

yes they are more effective at 60kmh and yeah at 100 they wont lock as easy but modern braking systems with normal type passenger tyres will still lock at that speed, IIRC aus standards requires them to be like that for obvious reasons. Pretty bad if the brakes arent up to that sort of spec in this day n age. Its a real pity older cars arent as good.

Would be good to see car manufacturers over brake there cars instead of having just adequete brakes

Makes sense to me, while standard breaks are more than effective to stop a car hard enough to lock at 60km/h, they are far less effective at slowing a wheel thats moving say at 120km/h

yep thats it

hey rjl25 looks like were agreeing again, truly good to see

i picked mine up from a wrecker for $80 for the pair. and yeah the pad area is much larger giving a better braking surface. the pads for the twin piston are nearly an inch longer and are a bit deeper, which will use all the disc surface instead of only part of it. and its meant for stopping much heavier cars aswell. There is also a better range of pads available for these (EBC greenstuffs) which arent available for the 1 piston jobbies

Do you know exactly what model Pajero these come from?

hey sarras
i quote from brad

"one of the newer round models.."

he wasnt sure of the year it was made though but he said they might all be interchangable any ways.
but as i was goin to the wreakers asking them about some pajero brakes he pulls out some 4pot 3000GT callipers and goes oh these are alot cheaper and will do the job better

hey sarras
i quote from brad

"one of the newer round models.."

he wasnt sure of the year it was made though but he said they might all be interchangable any ways.
but as i was goin to the wreakers asking them about some pajero brakes he pulls out some 4pot 3000GT callipers and goes oh these are alot cheaper and will do the job better

Really? I seem to remember a big thread here about why 3000GT calipers won't fit! EH! Confusing!

yep read the whole thread. it also said that they will fit with a little bit of grinding of the knuckle.....

im just gonna take in my spare hub and disc and caliper wen i get a chance on monday and see if it will bolt up