Right i have had this happen quite a few times, i go to turn on the engine and it starts but then almost immediately cuts out vey sharply. There is a click in the dash when it does it.

Any ideas?

Hi,

I would be close to 100% that its your: FUEL PUMP

You need a new one

good luck



P.s I assume your 'Check Engine' Light is comming on?

does it do it if you aplpy a bit of the throttle when you start the car?

This has been covered before. Usually due to battery.

This has been covered before. Usually due to battery.

Yup, i'd agree with that - a common thing with these cars, almost always the battery......

Battery, fuel, starter motor, spark. Probably one of those four things. Good luck

As dicssed last night, i had the same prob, a simple ecu reset (disconnected battery) fixed the prob staright away. Don;t really know what caused it though

first of all what sort of car ?

it sounds like a fairly common problem with 99 onwards magnas/veradas. ( with upgraded bem module ). if cranking volts drop below 10.4 volts while cranking the immobilizer does not have enough voltage to run for that split second so cuts injector pulse, thus killing your motor. Even though your battery might test up ok, it may just be on the borderline while cranking. this would be the first thing i would look at.

Have had my KH in storage for 3 months and the battery died. I re-charged it and it only gave it enough power to just turn over the starter motor.
Same thing happened, would start it and it would die 2 seconds after starting. I tried starting it a few times and it kept dying. Finally it kept going, nearly died a few times by cutting out but then cutting back in before it stalled, but then came good. It would be round 2000rpm like they do when you first start them and then would die like someone turned the key off.
I got a new battery and it has been fine since.

How long do you need to disconnect battery for?

After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it be aware that when you do start it you should let it idle for a good 10-15 mins for the ecu to set itself up and if you have a stock headunit be prepared to input the security code so that it will work again. :D

The click in the dash will be the Computer.. :D

That's interesting, coz mine started doing the exact same thing yesterday. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. And yes, i have the clicking noise in the dash in the middle. Sounds like a relay switching once, where the engine tries to cut out, the clicks again, and sometimes the engine manages to stay running. Other times it just cuts out.

I have reset the ecu and it seems to have fixed it. Also, i noticed my remote didn't work anymore, so i had to reprogram that also. And yes, it stopped working BEFORE i reset. It couldn't be the battery, as i have a brand new Odyssey battery which shows a voltage of over 13V cold and 14.3V when engine running. Reset ecu for about 10min.

I got a new battery and its now fine, i thought the new battery was a good idea as i not only had the above problem but after a while the engine would barely start, as alot of the WA boys saw when the cops arrived at the car park and i started shouting " my ****in car wont start " over the cb's.

oh dear, that was a funny night

COPS, COPS, COPS, GOOOOO!!!! :badgrin:

Wait, ross cant get his car started :redface: :redface: :redface:

ross cant get his 3.5 litre started.........3.0 LITRE!!
no im pretty sure there a.......3.0 LITRE!!!!
are you sure coz it looks like a.......3.0 LITRE!!!!

hahahahahaa anyone that was there will be laughing now, but anyone else, sorry its a long story but it was very funny

yay for 3 L ;)

This doesn't help the problem guys. Leave the random chatter for the GENERALS section.

ANyways, my problem has come back again. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't. Also my remote won't work again. Im starting to think its the damn remote battery that's flat. I dunno.
But anyways, what could the problem be? Anyone out there with a bit more tech knowledge?

Ive had the same problem, motor cuts out, seems to be when starting the car and then going into corners or slowing down. its only happened on two seperate occasions, but my mechanic said theres a good chance it has something to do with the pod filter. Something about the ecu not reading it properly? He said he could find out if he spent some time on it but time is cash, so i politely said no.

Well, no its not fixed. Its been ok the last 2 days. Then the car stalled again one night when turning on, and after that, my remote stopped working. I have to program it again to make it work. Im starting to suspect the immobiliser. :(

i had a similar problem in my 91' verada check the other thread in here.
Is the clicking coming from next to the passengers left foot? if it try checking to see that everything is connected properly and if it still doesnt work try checking to see if any of the connections are dry. Spray the connectors with WD-40 i did that and it hasnt happened since.
Hope it helps

i reckon its the idle speed control motor (ISC), or a clogged throttle body.

I reset my ecu for about 2 hours (disconnected battery) and everything seems fine now. Been fine since saturday evening (3 days) without any problems. So maybe try that.

Ive reset my ECu restarted for a 30mins..drove it around the block see how it went and it stalled again...Starting to think I need a new /2nd hand ecu.

Ive reset my ECu restarted for a 30mins..drove it around the block see how it went and it stalled again...Starting to think I need a new /2nd hand ecu.
Hang on. If it stalls when you idle during driving, then thats normal after a reset. You have to let the car idle for around 10 - 20minutes and it will sort itself out.

Ive reset my ECu restarted for a 30mins..drove it around the block see how it went and it stalled again...Starting to think I need a new /2nd hand ecu.

I still think its your idle speed control motor. Have you had this checked out?

El3ment---> I left it to idle for about 30 mins...then drove it around the block and it kept cutting out.during accelaration and de-celaretion..I increased idle speed to about 1000 rpm.But when I start it now it revs at about 1800-2000 rpm and the settles to 1000 rpm.is that a bit high at start up?

Kim---->Is that the same as an IAC motor...(from what I understand) it controls revs?

sexedn'tf had this problem.

ICS was idling up the car constantly and when occasionaly it was shut off by the ecu due to no throttle application and high rpm it would stall.

you have a screw on the throttle body called the idle bypass screw, remember where it is atm and screw it out and see if it helps. if it doesn't just spin it back in how ever many u wheeled it out and look elsewhere for the problem.

josh's was just screwed in all the way so no air was getting in to idle so the ecu would idle u with the ICS

Kim---->Is that the same as an IAC motor...(from what I understand) it controls revs?

Yep, same thing. It ups the rev's if they get too low (when it is working). I just had mine cleaned, has stopped the stalling.

Damn. The 'clicking in dash and engine cutting out' happened again and now remote is not working. it has to be the immobiliser. Does anyone know if the immobiliser is part of the ecu? or is it a seperate part? And if it is seperate, where can i find it?

Damn. The 'clicking in dash and engine cutting out' happened again and now remote is not working. it has to be the immobiliser. Does anyone know if the immobiliser is part of the ecu? or is it a seperate part? And if it is seperate, where can i find it?


Engine Light come on?

its not the immobiliser, its the fuel pump relay

Nope, no engine light comes on...

Is there a way to test relays? And wouldnt the relay be at the fuse box?

Kim Is that why Check Engine light is coming on?

Should I change the ICS motor and the Fuel Pump?