hi can i get some info on running active, what i need on my HU etc, how does it all work

i currently have a pioneer P1Y
and jaycar 2 x 150 amp

i would like to run 8" and tweet

i know i will need a 4 channel amp what else will i need

thanks

a Really good Adjustable Cross over...

sorry mate i dont understand

active is when you dont run crossovers???

crossover = passive???

hi can i get some info on running active, what i need on my HU etc, how does it all work

i currently have a pioneer P1Y
and jaycar 2 x 150 amp

i would like to run 8" and tweet

i know i will need a 4 channel amp what else will i need

thanks
Running active involves having one channel for each component. There is semi active as well. Eg threeway setup with midrange and tweet using passive xover and midbass using active...

Anyway What you need to run 8" and tweet.

Tweet just needs a highpass
8" needs a bandpass (as it cant handle sub bass)

You have a few options... External electronic crossover - Just a small component with 1 two or three inputs and 3 outputs.

Eg Highpass, bandpass and low pass. For tweet midbass and sub respectively.

There are a few headunits around that allow for active setups. Most of the highend Alpine units jump to mind.

some PRO's
-Ability to use differenct components / brands easily as you dont need to use custom passive crossovers (or factory passive xover)
- Passive xovers generally hinder SQ (Im not telling people to rush out and ditch their passive setups though) eg passive crossvers resistance and crossovers points/ slopes will alter slightly under load and with changing temperatures.
-Ability to tune and specify exactly what frequencies you want getting to ur equipment.
- You now have access to a much larger range of drivers including Supremo and horns (hlcd's) as most of these are sold individually with active setups in mind.
- Running each component through its own amp means that if one component is distorting or fails, no other components will be affected.
- more things to play around with :)

some CON's
- Needs a good knowledge of speakers tolerances, specs, tuning and audio
- Can sound much worse than passive setups if not tuned correctly and is very easy to tune active setups incorrectly.
- Require high end tuning eg RTA to see things you cant always hear or pinpoint eg natural roll off of drivers and frequency response.
- Requires a lot of investment in Amplification (one channel for each driver) And cabling/rca's
- Can get frustrating
- Passive crossovers made by good companies generally have years of research to match them specifically to the intended drivers. Trying to match or exceed this is v dificult

You will need 1 channel for each driver (generally easiest to use the same amp for each driver but not always necessary.) For 8" and tweet ul need either a 4 channel or 2 x 2 channels.
To find a tweet that matches an 8" driver it will need a very low response. Morel Supremo jumps to mind, many other options which I can go into detail when i have more time. The 8" mid will have problems playing midrange so the tweet will need to play well into this range ~2khz.

Peace

Tim

sorry mate i dont understand

active is when you dont run crossovers???

crossover = passive???
Crossovers can be either passive or active. Active crossovers generally filter out the frequencies at the RCA. Whilst passive generally do it at the speaker.

A crossover is either Low pass = Filters out higher freqs
or high pass - Filters out low frequencies

Or band pass = Combination of lpf and hpf = filters out a high and low to give you a band....

thanks tim alot for me to think about, i dont no if i want to go active anymore :nuts:



brad did have a phase problem too but all fixed now

what sort of set up (spk config) will give the most mid bass i want to turn down the sub

the type of bass that you feel when u are at a rave

brad did have a phase problem too but all fixed now
lol
I knew there was something up... Centre stage was a bit stretched out... Good to see thats sorted. He should have a bit more midbass now (phase issues will reduce midbass) as well as a sharper image.

If you want midbass you need good door prep for starters. You've got most of that covered already.

decent 6"-6.5" splits will get you good midbass combined with min 150 w rms per channel you should be fine. You'll need these mounted on mdf (not necessarily angled) even a baffle that replaces the factory plastic will help you out heaps. A bit of blutack or speaker sealant around the edges also ensures its sealed well.

Active may not be the answer. I wouldnt look at active until you've done a good passive setup.

If you want hard electronic music I wouldnt look to Morel or Dynaudio. Look to Hertz (not as good for softer genres). If you want a great alrounder look at Bostons range Boston is nice for deep midbass.

Midbass requires large speakers and lots of power. With totally deadened doors. A couple of layers of deadener all over and trims deadened, Place diffusers behind the drivers too.. Even then you will have rattling all through the car.

It depends how loud you want though. The midbass you are after is 50 - 100 hz tones which is in between the sub and midbass. Once you upgrade splits you will notice a huge difference and should still be able to pump the RE fairly hard under 80hz.
You are after a speaker with high power handling. And an amp with heaps of headroom. I'd be looking for around 2 x 400 w rms. (on low gains obviously)

Peace

Tim

thanks tim always full of info that i need so much

any other brands u would recommend on spks besides hertz and boston

i will probably pick the boston pros or Z but not decided

i want it as loud as i can afford

also any amps u would pick?? (i can see this costing big $$$)

boston pro60 rrp $1099
eton a1 (or a2) 160 rrp $1089
focal utopia 165w rrp $979
morel elate 6 (2way) rrp $889
phass 6.5.3 rrp $1175
rainbow profi vanadium line rrp $900-$1300
rochford fosgate x162s rpp $1399
dls ultimates rrp $1299
rainbow power line rrp $1188

Id still recommend the Dynaudio 240's though. They can get ridiculously loud. But it's your ears. I know you'll have trouble finding any of these brands in qld... Audition in car with something familiar if you get the chance.

Amps -> Tru-Tech - Zapco - Soundstream - Phass etc More power the better. You will hear better results putting as much into the splits as possible then trying to get as much bang for your buck (within reason)

Peace

Tim

thanks mate

will see if anyone from CAA in QLD have them installed so i can audition

fyi alan...

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58404