For the past 2 or so years, I've owned a 1992 KR Verada Ei Wagon. My parents bought it for $4,300, confident that it was a good, reliable first car for P platers. After 3 months of ownership, my brother snapped the passenger side CV trying to do a burnout.

Replacement CV shaft: $140.

After fitting the CV shaft, we found that the front passenger wheel was groaning and shuddering. Mechanic advised that it was a failed bearing.

Replacement Bearing + Oil Seals: $64.50.

Upon taking the bearing and hub to have them pressed together, the mechanic discovered that the hub was warped, due the the torque from the broken CV shaft.

Replacement Hub: $50.

My brother now decides to do a full service on the car. Change spark plugs, spark plug leads, fuel filter, oil filter, oil, air filter, coolant, and auto transmission.

6 Champion Plugs: $40
Spark plug leads: $54
Fuel Filter: $19
Oil Filter: $7
10L Shell 20W50: $60
10L Coolant: $13
10L Dexron III ATF: $70

The transmission, already on it's last legs, now begins to bump and thud at every opportunity, and leaves pools of oil wherever I parked.

Whilst out driving with a friend one night, my brother noticed that the temperature guage was well above normal, so they pulled over and opened the bonnet, to clouds of steam and a blown radiator.

Rebuild of radiator: $270.

Several weeks later, the same thing happens, only this time the top radiator hose has burst.

Replacement hose: $19.50.

By this time, things are getting slightly rattly up front. Drop the car into mechanic, who advises that I need 2 new front tyres and brake pads.

2 Dunlop Ducaro Tyres, 2 sets of brake pads: $290.

The mechanic also advised that the front rotors were badly warped, and needed replacement. I decided to do this myself, and save some cash.

2 DBA Standard Rotors: $200.

Throughout all this, the car has been blowing smoke, and everyone I spoke to was sure it was valve stem seals, so we organised some help and set aside a weekend to pull the engine out and clean it up. After hours of struggling, we finally get the engine out, swap the gearbox for a 2nd hand unit, and change all valve stem seals.

2nd hand gearbox: $600
12 Valve Stem Seals: $60
10L Mitsubishi A/T Fluid: $120
2 Rocker cover gaskets: $16
A/C conversion and regas: $264

While we were dropping the motor back into the car, one of the bolts holding the engine hooks sheared off, blowing the dashboard temperature sending unit away.

Replacement temperature sending unit: $67

After all this effort and time, things finally seem to be looking good.

Drop the car into the mechanic today to have a look at the steering and front struts, he advises me that the rack is leaking severly and needs replacement, as do the front struts.

Reconditioned steering rack:$650
2 Monroe GT Gas Struts: $310
Brake fluid flush: $89

Before the service, the car was suffering from a severe rattling in the front end, which seemed to be aleviated when I picked the car up this afternoon.

Driving home tonight from the climbing gym, the rattling is back, and it's worse than it was before.

I've had the jack of this car, I've spent over $2,500 just fixing it, and now I have serious doubts as to whether the mechanic has actually done any of the stuff I paid for...

To all those guys out there who've been through the same sort of thing, I feel your pain.

I think you should quit while you're ahead (while it's working) and sell it mate.

Just goes to show that one little stunt can cost you bigtime ey?

If you have any issues with the repair work that they have done, i'd take it back to the mechanic, as they SHOULD have some sort of warranty on the work (the mechanic i go to other than our family mechanic has a 3 month warranty on everything he does).
But then again the car could just be a dud unfortunately, previous owners may have neglected it.
Good luck in getting it fixed, i'd go see another mechanic, list everything that the other mechanic did and get him to check it out.

sound like

-the mechanic took you for a ride
-you got a lemon
-however theres a high % of 2.5k bought upon by yourself and the mechanic

either
-sell it
-stop fixing it! if its drivable (and safe) just let it be, i owuldnt worry too much about a rattle here and there bear in mind the car is 13 yrs old

Don't give that mechanic another dime.. I'd see somebody else, get quotes and suss out whether they look dodgy or legit. After quotes you may be able to decide whether its all worth fixing, or getting another car, but I reckon ya should be able to get it fixed. But even if while it's being worked on you hang around the shop and request to see the original parts, you will know the work is done then.

See someone else.

I'd be looking at palming the car off and getting something else too.

Thanks for your input guys, and as my mum said, "It's an old car, it's never going to be perfect again, so just live with it."

I think I'll just drive it until it dies, and save my beans for a 380 GT...