Hi Guys

Just a quick question on tweeter placement for anyone with splits. A week back I picked up a nice set of mb quartz reference series 6.5" splits and currently have the tweeters mounted on top of the dash on the round removable circles. This is the easiest place to mount them as far as looks and wiring but it's far from optimal for sound quality i.e to much seperation from woofer, replection off windscreen so basically I'm ending up with a very trebly sound with a weird stage. I'm looking at other options on places to mount the tweeter. Theoretically somewhere in the door fairly close to the woofer would provide the best sound but I really don't want to cut a hole in my door and I don't think there is any chance of getting the speaker wire through the rubber grommet joining the car and the door (it took about 4hrs to get the 1st set through for the woofers) I've heard there were some VRX's released with tweeters in the A-Pillars does anyone have any photos or comments on these? If you could angle the tweeter correctly I suspect this would work ok but I'm a little confused on how you get the wiring to the a-pillar (I'm presuming through the door which once again brings up the wiring issue)

Apart from that does anyone have any suggestions when it comes to tweeter mounting?

while I'm hear has anyone bothered to sound deaden there front doors at all, if so what method and materials did you use and was the improvement noticeable?

gosh the audio stuff is rediculously addictive only 1 month ago I bought my 1st set of splits and though I would stop there since then I've spent over $1500 and many many hours on it!

thanks for any advice in advance. in a couple of days I'll probably seek some advice on optimal amp mounting placements as my boot is a bit messy with crossovers cables and amp atm

You're right about the mounting of the speakers in the Sports/VR-X except that it is not so much on the A pillar but on the doors themselves. I've attached a crappy pic I took with my phone so you can get an idea.

where as I actually mounted my tweeters on the a-pillar.

Manual

Before you move the tweeter deaden the doors, are the splits running off a amp and if not do it, and if so what is the wattage of the amp and the wattage of the splits,

Here I go again, but focal make a wicked deadener but it will cost you about $60 and that is a deadner that just sits behind the speaker on the door skin, it isn't doing the whole door. The sound inprovment is very noticable and will also help in closing the separation you have at the moment.

Fusion make a pretty good sound deadener too....called FU-D

got it in my car and it works a treat

thankyou very much for your input guys

thats picture is great thanks cthulhu, I was thinking of buying some from mitsu but I'm unsure if my tweets will fit in also I would like them at a pretty good angle i.e facing opposite headrest if possible. Don't know if you can help me but I'm presuming the wiring goes inside the door? If so I guess I'll have to write them off as there is no way another set of speaker wire is going through the grommets.

ahh thats a nice little setup manual, I know you have a good quality sound setup what made you choose that area to mount them i.e lotsa experimentation, convenience, looks etc? Once again where do you have the speaker wires running from them?

funky_fresian_cows I've seen some of your posts and you know what your talking about so good to have you in this thread. Both my splits and rear 6x9's are running off a coustic 481qe amp which gets pretty good writeups for sq purposes.

Honustly I havn't researched deadening at all yet just thought I would throw the question in but the more I read about it the more important it sounds especially in my case (looking for more bass and less seperation) I was under the impression you basically had to sound deaden the complete door with the carpet like material and possibly a tar. I was thinking of following something like this guide http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/tutorials/tutorial.cgi?action=viewtute&tutename=Sound_Deadening_Lancer_Doors&displayname=Sound%20Deadening%20Lancer%20Doors&num=1943065&NewTuteAuthor=Andrew%20Burke&NewTuteCategory=Sound%20Deadening which I havn't actually read properly yet

but from what your saying I could just use this deadener behind my speaker and leave the rest of the door? sounds interesting I'm surprised I havn't heard much about it before. I can get the door apart real quick now but wasn't real keen on many many more hours doing the rest

once again thanks guys keep the input coming please

Manual;

That mounting looks funny... but don't listen to me.. I dunno ICE... :D :p :D :p

Slayer, i bought some of the genuine tweeter grilles for the quadrant , cost me about $15 each(helps that were a mitsu dealer) they just clip straight in. I had to make up a metal bracket to fit my alpine tweeters but they are simple enough, just two strips of metal bend em and bolt them to the door using an existing bolt. Looks very "factory" and you can bend the brakets to get the positioning just right. Jaycar sell adhesive backed sound deadener material of varying sizes/quality. Bit cheaper than the other stuff.

scubasteve thanks for that info, you don't happen to have a picture of your setup do you? Also could you just confirm with me where you run the wires for the tweeter?

are you happy with the positioning and the sound provided?

thanks again

You may find that even having the tweeters on the A pillars may still be far from optimal as it is still a substantial distance from the midrange in the lower front of the door. I have my tweeters surface mounted in the kick panels on some metal hinge brackets which I have modified to aim at the correct angle.

With the doors I have coated the outer door skin with liquid sound deadener 'G-spot' from CarAudioAust, and then fully sealed off the door service cavities with 3mm MDF and sound deadened again with extra heavy duty foil backed mat. All door locking rods etc have been wound in vinyl taping. The inside of the door trims have also been liquid sound deadened. The doors are now 100% rattle free and close with a satifying thump. For a thorough job look to spend about $80-$100 sound deadening each door!

One of the biggest problems with mounting the tweeters in the kick panel or lower in the door is your sound stage will be to low and the sound will sound like it's coming from below you, this is not a good idea, though running a amp helps with this sound. Problem with mounting on the A-Pillar is you now end up with a very directional top end sound, this also is not great but because the speakers are a little closer they usually don't have to bad a seperation, On dash facing window give a great sound stage, Usually, but you end up with more seperation as the tweeter is too far away from the woofer, best fix, deaden the doors as much as you want to, the focal deadner is great, but it doesn't do the whole door, just a area, yes big improvement, but doing the whole door after that, improvement again. It comes down to what you like and what you can put up with cause each mounting method has it's good and bad points, i mounted my tweeters for best sound stage, this means if I close my eyes and can not pin point the tweeter and you can hear the singer move around on the stange in live stuff. It's all a matter of what you like

Manual;

That mounting looks funny... but don't listen to me.. I dunno ICE... :D :p :D :p

What are you getting at Nick?? Hmmm!!

Anyways - they are mounted there for 2 reasons:

1) the speaker is faced directly at the person in the seats and sounds great - i tried up and down teh A-Pillar

2) they are invisible from the outside = unless you try and look for them - and they are the only A/M speakers that are no hidden in factory locations and are also out of the sun.

They are just screwed into the A-Pillar and the wire runs down the A-pillar into the seal down into the kick panels where my cross overs are hidden.

Manual

thanks for the replies guys I now have a few more questions

tek you don't happen to have any pictures of this setup do you? once again does the wires have to run through the door with this setup?

ok now I'm really interested in sound deadening after reading up. Tek the stuff you used seems to be a pretty good way to go. I was thinking of using the serenity max sound deadening carpet and gspot paint all found here http://www.webaudiodirect.com/store/category17_1.htm

seing as you've used it I'll clarify a few things with you. How much g-spot did you need to use on both front doors? when you say you only did the outer skin with g-spot am I right in presuming that the panel that the speaker attaches to i.e not the panel you have to reach through the service holes to get to?

Can you clarify what you used to liquid deaded the trims and what actually is the trim?

when you used the extra matting did you put that over the areas you used g-spot on and not the panel behind the service holes (you left them undeadened?)

also if you have any piccies of your sound deadened door that would be great as well, if you havn't gathered I'm basically very interested in your setup as it is probably the way I will go about it and it;s hard to find someone who has deadened a magnas door. from what I've gathered sealing the serivce holes is probably the most important part for improved bass from the fronts?

funky_fresian_cows am I correct in presuming you mounted your tweeter on the dash? do you have an pics of how you've done them as I'm finding the sound on the dash quite bright and seperated but the tweeters do almost touch the glas even though I've tried to angle them correctly.

very interesting manual, so your tweets face straight at the corresponding driver and passenger or to the opposite ones? good job with the wires as I can't even see them but I don't know if the thick stinger cable I'm using would be easy to hide and I'm a little worried about putting holes in my car.

scubasteve if you could get back to me about the tweeter mounting your using it would be fantastic :)

It's probably to late now to order any sound deadening material before the weekend but I'm planing on doing this and relocating my tweeters if needed soonish so any input is greatly appreciated

thanks again to everyone keep the ideas coming

hey dunno if this helps, but when i installes some sony splits in my mates charade, we got the wire through the rubber tube by taping the end of the wire to the end of a straightened coathanger, lining it up as best we could and pushed :?
still not an easy job but easier than trying without the coathanger :D
And only one hole in the rubber either side that wasn't there before :D :D

[quote:c115870687]One of the biggest problems with mounting the tweeters in the kick panel or lower in the door is your sound stage will be to low and the sound will sound like it's coming from below you, this is not a good idea, though running a amp helps with this sound.[/quote:c115870687]

Only if the tweeters aren't aimed correctly, in my car most people do not even notice that I have tweets in the kick panels. Not because they can not hear them or see them, but because it appears as though the sound is coming from dash level. Amplifying the front speakers will not fix a placement or timing issue though???

[quote:c115870687]Problem with mounting on the A-Pillar is you now end up with very directional top end sound, this also is not great but because the speakers are a little closer they usually don't have to bad a seperation, [/quote:c115870687]

Which do you mean? You are first saying that the high freq will become very directional, but then that they do not have too bad a separation? Or do you mean separation with the mid-bass speaker? Having the tweeters in the kick panels is much closer than in the a-pillar.

[quote:c115870687]On dash facing window give a great sound stage, Usually, but you end up with more seperation as the tweeter is too far away from the woofer, best fix, deaden the doors as much as you want to,[/quote:c115870687]

Sorry but I would have to disagree and say that on the dash firing up at the glass is the worse place to have the tweeters. Not for the reason that they will now be miles away from the mid-bass, but that the sound being reflected off glass will cause it to scatter in all directions and distort.

IMHO:

- Tweeters next to mid-bass, almost like running a 2 way speaker gives good quality sound.
- Tweeters in the kick panel give the best sound, as it minimises path length difference (the difference in distance between the left and right speaker(s) and your ears) hence better stereo imaging. Also close to mid-bass so gives a perceived single sound source.
- Tweeters in A-pillar give a very pronounced high end overpowering the mid-bass. Also poor stereo as effectively one tweet is very close to your ears but the other is miles away.
- Tweeters in dash pointing up at glass give absolute worse sound (see above). The only reason why I see factory tweeters still mounted here is due to John Citizens liking a more pronounced high end as they often listen at more moderate volumes.

Re soundproofing:

I used a quarter tub of the G-spot liquid deadener on the outer skin of each door (the panel you have to reach through the service holes to get to. You don't need to get an even coat; effectively all you need to do is add mass to the panel to stop it vibrating. Also used a quarter tub on the inside of each door trim (the plastic moulding with the door handle, map pockets, window switches etc). This meant 1 tub total for both front doors.

I traced out all service holes onto 3mm MDF and cut out into tight fitting pieces. Wrapped all door lock rods in electrical tape. Sealed off all service holes with duct tape. Put MDF cutout shapes into the now-covered holes and then another layer of duct tape on top to hold MDF in place. Whole door is then treated with G-Spot serenity Max. one large kit was enough to treat both doors. Mount speakers and remount door trim. Doors are now solid.

Sorry no photos, I didn't yet have a digicam back then =). In mounting the tweets in the kick panels, I basically mounted my crossovers on either side of the center console in the footwells, they were connected to the amps in the boot. Wires then ran from crossovers under the carpet and through the door grommet for the mid-bass, and another set under carpet and into kick panel for tweeters (no grommet stuffing around for tweeters).

I made a simple tool from a coathanger wire - Just take 4" or so of coathanger wire, then solder whatever speaker wire you want to feed onto the end of it. Poke the hanger wire through the grommet and the speaker wire pulls right through. Easy! P.S. Skylines and Hondas are a PAIN to route through door grommets, they use a DIN style plug that requires much butchering to run new wire.

Good luck!

[quote:a70f6b2c34]
One of the biggest problems with mounting the tweeters in the kick panel or lower in the door is your sound stage will be to low and the sound will sound like it's coming from below you, this is not a good idea, though running a amp helps with this sound.


Only if the tweeters aren't aimed correctly, in my car most people do not even notice that I have tweets in the kick panels. Not because they can not hear them or see them, but because it appears as though the sound is coming from dash level. Amplifying the front speakers will not fix a placement or timing issue though??? [/quote:a70f6b2c34]

Well actually amping your speaker does fix the problem of where they are mounted when mounting low, running no amp means you have no dynamics in the sound, dynamics in the sound give better spread to the speaker and better spread means it's harder to pick the source area of the speaker. This is known fact and is why any good sound installer will tell you to run a amp straight away with speakers in kick panels.


[quote:a70f6b2c34]
Problem with mounting on the A-Pillar is you now end up with very directional top end sound, this also is not great but because the speakers are a little closer they usually don't have to bad a seperation,


Which do you mean? You are first saying that the high freq will become very directional, but then that they do not have too bad a separation? Or do you mean separation with the mid-bass speaker? Having the tweeters in the kick panels is much closer than in the a-pillar. [/quote:a70f6b2c34]

For starters, seperation and direction or two totally different things so this is quite funny.....seperation in speakers is what you get when you get the tweeter to far away from the woffer, direction is when you can pick the location of the speaker, two totally different things but good to see you thought about this first before you attack what I said.

[quote:a70f6b2c34]
On dash facing window give a great sound stage, Usually, but you end up with more seperation as the tweeter is too far away from the woofer, best fix, deaden the doors as much as you want to,


Sorry but I would have to disagree and say that on the dash firing up at the glass is the worse place to have the tweeters. Not for the reason that they will now be miles away from the mid-bass, but that the sound being reflected off glass will cause it to scatter in all directions and distort. [/quote:a70f6b2c34]

You think so well seeing your in melbourne if we both get to a cruise one day you can have a listen. I have great stero imaging, you can hear chimes and things moving across the stage perfectly and have no distortion, have you ever stuck a tweeter in the dash....should say things like that unless you have personally tried it yourself.........

ok thanks again for the detailed replies. It seems the tweeter placement comes down to personal taste which is good as it allows me to gather a few options. Yeah I've managed to get one set of speaker wire through the gromet but there is no way another set is getting through it just won't fit with the powerwindows etc.

Thats some fantastic info on the soundproofing,

So in summary you only used g-spot on the outer skin none of the fabric style deadener? haha I now know what everyone means by the trim i.e the bit you pull off the door to get to the speaker thats makes much more sense ok so g-spot all over the yellow foam section of that?

you then sealed the holes with mdf and put one layer of serenity max over the inner skin, so you didn't use any g-spot on this side only the fabric matting?

if this is the case and you've got away with one tub of g-spot and one pack of serenity thats not to bad at all I thought I'd need 2 packs and 2 tubs because I thought you had to mat and paint both skins.

can you just confirm I have comprehended everything you said correctly.

[quote:e4fdfa5504]Well actually amping your speaker does fix the problem of where they are mounted when mounting low, running no amp means you have no dynamics in the sound, ... [/quote:e4fdfa5504]

Now I understand where you're coming from, I initially thought you meant to simply amp speakers to fix placement/aiming issues. In which case yes, I agree that kick panel speakers almost always need to be amp'ed.

[quote:e4fdfa5504]...should say things like that unless you have personally tried it yourself.........[/quote:e4fdfa5504]

Yes have tried tweeters facing up on dash in 3 cars. My KS, a VS commodore, a Lancer, and also a WRX. Didn't particularly like the sound, and this was with 4 different brands of tweeters mind you, both silk and metallic domes. I don't see high frequencies as benefiting from reflection.

Slayer:

Only g-spot liquid on outer door skin; it is a pain getting sheet adhesive to stick to that surface and stay, especially after wresting it through the service holes. I scrubbed all inside the door with degreaser and hosed it out before applying the g-spot.

Only g-spot max sheeting on the inner door skin (service holes). use the handle of a screwdriver to press it in hard so it moulds itself to all the contours of the panel.

If you make any baffles out of MDF for your speakers, spray a couple of coats of enamel on both sides of the baffle first, otherwise you'll find after a couple of years they've perished and gone all mouldy from rain.

gosh the audio stuff is rediculously addictive only 1 month ago I bought my 1st set of splits and though I would stop there since then I've spent over $1500 and many many hours on it!

ROFL!!

I told you so!!! :p :p :badgrin:

I have my tweeters on the dash in the stock positions.
Layer of dound deadening
6.5" speaker mounted on MDF

Sounds real good!

Except I need to sound deaden the plastic door trim...it vibrates during the occasioanl song.

btw, When i get it pumping at full volume, I can feel the air flow moving though the electric window buttons on the door too. The speaker in the door must be pushing a bit of air around hehe :D[/img]

thanks again tek I'll definately give this a go soon, I've done some reading and seems like flashtac (from bunnings) is a cheap alternative deadener pity when I popped into bunnings on the way home they had no idea what I was on about grrr to clueless night staff, anyways if I can track that down I might try that mixed with g-spot, if I'm feeling rich i'll try the serenity max.

Is there any optimal thickness mdf to use? I saw a panel of 3mm for about $10 but it was enough to do about 10 doors! the thicker stuff seemed much more expensive but does it make a difference for filling in the holes?

haha it's only after hours and hours of reading about car audio that I can appreciate your sound system driver it didn't mean a thing to me a month ago where as now I'd be thrilled to have a setup like that although the ammount of time and money I'm spending on it I'll get there eventually although these mbquartz should be decent when setup correctly.

It's interesting that you have gone the dash mounts for the tweeters are they angled at all? and at what height are they i.e dash level, sitting ontop of the circles etc.

your sound deadening looks good is there much of an advantage mounting the 6.5" in a mdf housing compared to the stock plastic housing because I must say my speaker fitted nicely into the stock places

thanks again

I got it done like that cause my mate (with a Magna) had it done that way too.

Suppose to be more solid mounting, wood = better sound / vibration absorption compared to plastic.

you can hear the singer move around on the stange in live stuff.

how do u mean by this?
singers sing through a microphone... so no matter where abouts they are on stage it is all going to sound the same cos the speakers dont move

[quote:1c3a154ce4="funky_fresian_cows"] you can hear the singer move around on the stange in live stuff.

how do u mean by this?
singers sing through a microphone... so no matter where abouts they are on stage it is all going to sound the same cos the speakers dont move[/quote:1c3a154ce4]

Yeah that's true unless the guy at the desk pans the sound according to where they are on stage.

ok guys one quick question I'll probably do the sound deadening next weekend if I have the time. Now in all the guides you have to remove the plastic weather shield obviously to get at everything however they never mention putting it back on. So do you have to reinstall the plastic weather shield after all the deadening is complete and if so what did you guys stick it back on with.

I had a quick look at the doors yesterday and it doesn't look like it's going to be easy at all the service holes are huge but have wires going all through them which will make sealing them tricky!

I've basically decided to use gspot on the outer skin with a piece of extra flashtac behind the speaker. And then cover the inner skin once sealed with a layer of flashtac. I'll then cover the trim with g-spot as well.

Hopefully this will make a noticable difference. After this is completed if it's still needed I'll find the best place for the tweeters. While I'm here is there any truth behind reversing the polarity of the tweeters if they are on the dash for better sq. I've done it and it certainly makes the sound "different" but if it's better I'm not sure

The MDF you use to fill the service holes is not of great importance; 3mm is more than sufficient since you are laying sound deadener on top of it as well; it just gives more structural rigidity than simply duct tape.

Bin the weather shield once it's done; you won't need it anymore. I am also reserved in recommending Flashtac because like Brownbread, it is a cheap sound deadener/insulator and as such does not have good sonic performance across a wider range of temperatures. G-Spot Max is an intermediate grade sound deadener.

I came across a test years ago where they applied Brownbread and Dynamat (premium grade deadener) to same size metal panels, then tested resonant frequencies at various ambient temperatures. They found the Brownbread was only really effective within a range of 10degC or so (much like a bandpass speaker :badgrin: ), whereas the Dynamat held a huge effective range of temperatures.

Interesting i was talking to a good friend and one of Melbournes best installers about tweeter placement. MMM what a can of worms this starts, they actually mount the mid driver and then have the tweeter on about 1 meter of speaker wire, give the car back to the owner and say start moving it around until you find the best spot for you, everyone hears different. Out of interest he also showed me in my car with a test cd the pros and cons of different areas. The cd is a series of snare drums that are panned across stage. With the kick panels the hard right and left snare sound low in the sound stage but as it comes towards the center the stage comes up higher. With them in the A-pillar you get a even flat stage but with to much on the side you sit. This is why he says tweeter placement is where the owner wants them, there is not hard and fast rule it all comes to your own ear. Move the tweeters around and stick the in place with blue tac drive around a few days and move them again. Just thought this may be of help

Funky's right, thats what me and my mate call the "blu tac test"
We just put some blu tac on the back of the tweeter and put it in various places till we found a sweet spot.

well I just ordered 2 large packs of serenity max large and 1L of gspot paint got quite pricey quickly but hopefully it works out! I have a large roll of brand new flashtac here if anyone is interested :) not actually looking forward to this it looks like it could be a long and hard job

also thanks tek can I just ask why the weather shield isn't needed after the deadening? does the deadener block the water or something?

Slayer, i bought some of the genuine tweeter grilles for the quadrant , cost me about $15 each(helps that were a mitsu dealer) they just clip straight in. I had to make up a metal bracket to fit my alpine tweeters but they are simple enough, just two strips of metal bend em and bolt them to the door using an existing bolt. Looks very "factory" and you can bend the brakets to get the positioning just right. Scubasteve, how much would these be to buy normally? If'n they're hugely more expensive... do u do COD?

i didn't read the last 3 pages ! so i dunno if someone said what im writting already

but the positioning of tweeters is called staging, basically u take ur favourite cd and some blue tac, play around with the tweeter (p[lacing them in various locations) untile u think u've got the best sound!

most people just make the right tweeter shoot at the left headrest and left tweeter shoot at the right head rest. this is done to compensate the length between right tweeter to ur right ear and left tweeter to left ear.

have fun

yeah it really is alot of experimentation. In the end I used them in the stock dash mounts for a week or so but they were too bright so I relocated them to the kick panels which sounds better and eliminates any seperation problems. With the addition of my new alpine 9815 headunit timealignment fixes any minor niggles with staging :)

I have the same splits and screwed the angled mounting cup to the delta pod/sail (that covers the bolts that mount the wing mirror) and ran the wire down through the door card to the crossovers in the door. They fire towards the head rests and im quite happy with the staging.

back teK's sound deadening advice 100%. MDF baffles and roadkill/dynamat extreme.

DefLeper... may need to look at the date of the last post... 21-Dec-2003!!!! I would say he sorted it long ago!

Welcome to the club all the same.

Cheers
Pete

I never mount tweeters in the stock location espically if the stock location is one the dash aiming up at the window because with a larger tweeter than the norm you can have the treble bouncing off the windscreen and that just sounds no good. I try to go for the A Pillar in most of the cars i do installs on, but in my TE Magna it has the Sail/Delta Pods so i ripped the old tweeter out from there and fitted my After Market Focal one in there and it sounds pretty damn good.

Edit: This is just for research purposes

Oh well, if we're perpetuating an old thread I'm going to throw 2 bobs worth into the mix.

One GOOD reason for putting tweeters onto the dash and reflecting their sound off the windscreen is "Timing".

The further the sound has to travel from the tweeter to reach your ears (as opposed to the A pillar / delta pod location) then the greater chance it will arrive at the same time as the sound coming from the door speaker down by your feet.

If everything arrives at your ears at different times, it could confuse your mind :)

Thats the fun of my Alpine 9887 Time Alignment and various other tuning options

Why not resurrect an old thread when it's so worthwhile - anyway, the issues haven't changed at all in 7 years :)

I'm also facing the tweeter location compromise. If they're mounted near the woofers in the normal door location, or the kick-panels, then the distance-to-ear will be well matched but the image will be too low down - this is my main complaint with my front speakers, the treble isn't too bad but it's not "high" enough, literally.

Actually I'm planning to keep full-range coaxials in the doors, so it's probably extra important to keep the timing similar, or I'll get extreme phase cancellation, double-imaging or whatever...

If I take a line from my ears to the centre of the door speaker, the alternative position with almost the same distance is the stock dash-mount location. The sail panel or anywhere in the upper door is very much closer to my ears.

From this, it seems in theory that the best position is the dash corners, if I want equivalent timing and a nice high sound stage. If reflection off the windscreen is problematic, how about if the tweeters are angled towards me instead of pointing up? i.e. not using the factory mounting and grille (besides, I just have the plastic covers there). So, a custom pod with the tweeters mounted near-vertical. Would this be ideal?

as it has been said before.... Experiment with Tweeter placement.
My Clarion splits have the Tweeter in the Sail panel position angled back towards me...
They are so sharp I have dialed the treble back on my deck to level 2 out of 10..

magnat, have you tried any other position for comparison, or was that the best location you could find (despite the over-sharp sound?).

i screwed my tweeter into the doorcard so its pointing right at me sound great