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View Full Version : Genuine Mitsubishi !! ??



adcha1
15-11-2005, 06:29 PM
Called up Mitsubishi today and asked them for prices for the following:

Air Filter $36 + GST

Fuel Filter $30 + GST

Coolant 3L $33 + GST

Power Steering Fluid 500ML $6 + GST

When i asked them what brand are those, they said genuine Mitsubishi. So do they really make those or buy them from let say Repco :shock: and sell them as Genuine Mitsubishi !!

Whats the best air filter, fuel filter for a 3.0L V6 Manual TE. I wanted to put mitsu parts in there and see if there's any difference. I'm getting terrible fuel consumption.


Any thoughts on this topic ?

[TUFFTR]
15-11-2005, 06:51 PM
fuel filter and coolant is a blatent rip off.
super cheap stock valvoline fuel filters for much less then that.
and you can get top notch nulon coolant for basically the same price but you get 12 Litres more
(5L concentrate bottle)

air filter and power steering fluid seem a good price

and mitsubishis parts arnt anything special...they just use it to con you

just my 2c

Cheers, Paul

magnus
15-11-2005, 07:51 PM
you dont need 5lt for a magna only 1/3 coolant 2/3 water
thats why its in a 3lt bottle and its been made to suit mitsubishi motors

Matthius
16-11-2005, 12:24 AM
Actually by and large the factory genuine parts **** all over the repco-esque versions and consequently you pay the price. I use the repco versions myself :P but thats mostly because I'm a tight arse.

The mistu coolant is very very good gear, have a look at any v6 magna thats had genuine coolant all it's life and the hoses will be clean no sign of coolant fluff and the radiator in/outlets will be free of buildup - this is one part where I wont skimp and do use genuine, it's been proven time and time again that factory coolant(GM and Toyota are prime examples) is the best stuff for your car.
If you are going to go non genuine coolant try to stick to one brand as mixing coolant is the fastest way to corrode your nice alloy heads - some coolants when put together react to become very acidic.

On the downside I don't see any of the above affecting your fuel consumption in any noticeable way. Have you tried the usuals like plugs, checking your oxygen sensor is plugged in and not cracked/frayed, checking if it's operating is a little harder and possibly getting your injectors tested for spray pattern and flow?

Matthius

TecoDaN
16-11-2005, 08:02 AM
The air filter is actually reasonably priced, well in comparision to other air filters made for 3rd gen Magna's. I purchased a Ryco air filter for a similar price at Repco the other day.

Nexus
16-11-2005, 10:12 AM
Got my air filter at $26.50 Purolator brand. The fuel filter are norm pricing.
Ryco brand cost me $27.50 for it. Oil filter from Mitsubishi are cheap, get from them + rubber o-ring when doing a oil change. Oil Filter about under $11.00 o-ring cost $0.80 cents

Actually many coolant brands out there exceed the standard requirements depands on what you want.

Cheers!

magnat
16-11-2005, 10:17 AM
Kind makes the $120 K&N panel filter a wise option in the long run.. Cause the air filter is gonna cost you more in the years to come. Where as you can just wash and Retreat the K&N

I go to repco and Get my Filter and Oil for $24 . Sure it is Repco Branded but the Oil is made under license by Mobil ( I read the bottle)

_stonesour_
16-11-2005, 01:11 PM
make sure u use genuine coolant!

Matthius
16-11-2005, 02:40 PM
make sure u use genuine coolant!

Yeps with you 100% there.

Matthius

snu2
16-11-2005, 03:18 PM
just outta interest, what sortta fuel eco u getting.
i have a 3L TE manual (115k's on the clock) and i also have "VERY POOR" eco
from the last run i did (approx 150 was h'way km's but the rest was pushing it fairly hard)
i used 52.87L and got a huge 444km's from it.

yes, thats a huge 8.4 km's per lr (remembering that there were h'way km's in that too)

is your's this bad???

i'm running a modified sports zorst and a K&N pannel with home made intake, but thats about all the mods i got.

let me know if ya find the source of the problem

thanx Jonathan

adcha1
16-11-2005, 08:31 PM
just outta interest, what sortta fuel eco u getting.
i have a 3L TE manual (115k's on the clock) and i also have "VERY POOR" eco
from the last run i did (approx 150 was h'way km's but the rest was pushing it fairly hard)
i used 52.87L and got a huge 444km's from it.

yes, thats a huge 8.4 km's per lr (remembering that there were h'way km's in that too)

is your's this bad???

i'm running a modified sports zorst and a K&N pannel with home made intake, but thats about all the mods i got.

let me know if ya find the source of the problem

thanx Jonathan

I get about 7.5-7.8kms/litre. But i don't drive highway. My work is only 500-600 metres from my house( i'm lazy to walk) and i normally go to uni which is about 9k from my house. There are about 5-6 traffic lights and i normally get the bad luck of stopping at atleast 3-all of them!!.

Matthius
16-11-2005, 08:51 PM
If it actually is 5/600 metres away that'll be most of your consumption problems as your car will never get out of cold start enrichment, so morning and night it'll run fat - although it'd probably take you a month to empty the tank :P

Matthius

Nexus
16-11-2005, 11:55 PM
Actually by and large the factory genuine parts **** all over the repco-esque versions and consequently you pay the price. I use the repco versions myself :P but thats mostly because I'm a tight arse.

The mistu coolant is very very good gear, have a look at any v6 magna thats had genuine coolant all it's life and the hoses will be clean no sign of coolant fluff and the radiator in/outlets will be free of buildup - this is one part where I wont skimp and do use genuine, it's been proven time and time again that factory coolant(GM and Toyota are prime examples) is the best stuff for your car.
If you are going to go non genuine coolant try to stick to one brand as mixing coolant is the fastest way to corrode your nice alloy heads - some coolants when put together react to become very acidic.

On the downside I don't see any of the above affecting your fuel consumption in any noticeable way. Have you tried the usuals like plugs, checking your oxygen sensor is plugged in and not cracked/frayed, checking if it's operating is a little harder and possibly getting your injectors tested for spray pattern and flow?

Matthius

Ah! I didnt read this carefully, I see your point in the coolant thingy. Well noted, unfortunately I am already using other brand as I didnt know what the previous owner used.
Now I will just stick to the one I currently used. Thanks for the info. Something new learned.