Ok Here we go so you want an Intake Resanator Mod it's easy peasy anyone can do it it's just a matter of removing the intake air chambers attached to the main large air intake tube.

This is a picture of the Air Chambers removed from the Magna There held together by a small bracket underneath so you will need to take one screw off so you can take the chambers off.

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM01.jpg

This is the top view with the air chambers removed.

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM03.jpg

This is a picture of the bottom hole plugged with a bottle cap and clamped.

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM04.jpg

This picture shows the top side air chamber hole plugged with the bottle cap and clamped.

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM02.jpg

When you use a bottle cap you need to find one that is strong and that will snugly fit into the opening you might have something else better to use but the same thing must fit snugly so you can slide it in and clamp it down with the clamps.

Now that you know exactly what to do you want to know how loud it's going to be well it's not that loud at all it's a nice little rumble from the engine bay to go with your sports exhuast.

:cool:

Waiting.

I removed my CAI and put my resonators back on, lost power down low but seemed to gain some in the high. Also be careful using bottle cap lids, mine split from the heat and was letting in air :O.

I got a hole saw and made plugs out of some leftover 16mm MDF. Then simply siliconed them in making an airtight seal.

Worked a charm and it's not hard to remove if I want to put them back.

ok a better fit is the Mckormics Spice Screw Lids
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/enginepics001.jpg
they fit perfectly on, with a little lip on the outside so they NEVER fall in...chuck out the milk bottle caps and get these ones, much better fit.

ok a better fit is the Mckormics Spice Screw Lids

Thanks for that the juice bottle caps are just temp till I find something alot better.
Lucky I'm doing shopping tomorrow hehehehe. lol


I removed my CAI and put my resonators back on, lost power down low but seemed to gain some in the high.

Has anyone found this true with there magna's ?

i cant seem to notice much difference at all.
once question magnaaussie. are you using a stock paper filter or a K&N?
im using a K&N panel and the car only seems to grunt up past 3500rpm.
in what rev range does your car seem to sound V8ish?

It doesn't sound "V8ish" who said that was not me. :confused: It has a slight sound of a resanator while taking off at the light's it's not to loud. If you still have a stock exhuast you will hear it for sure but if you got the sport exhuast on well maybe it's harder to hear from the inside.

At the moment it has a new ryco panel filter and to my surprise it's no longer paper it's like cotton like abit fluffy.

Here's some updated pics with the juice bottle caps replaced the McKomics Spice caps and I can see why [TUFFTR] has used these there a much tighter fit and look better too also harder plastic so they shouldn't crack or split.

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM05.jpg

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM06.jpg

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM07.jpg

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM08.jpg

http://www.aussieholden.com/pics/IRM09.jpg

Should get some flatblack-in-a-can and give 'em a spray.

poweraide lides worked best for me. The main reason i used them was because they were black so they didnt stand out like a saw thumb and were strong enough, they never split.

its good to see it went well :)

all credit must be given to jellico ( i wont steal your ideas :P ) as he was the man who gave me the idea.
i might have to buy a stocko filter again to see if it makes any difference, as i said before only sounds grunty at maybe 3000ish rpm and above.

im glad you took detailed pictures aswell. mods should sticky this for future reference, and for future noobs to start threads about intake resinators.

you might wanna give the intake a Mr.Sheening :D
so whats the next mod lined up?

']

all credit must be given to jellico ( i wont steal your ideas :P ) as he was the man who gave me the idea.

awww thank's mate
McCormiks lid happend cause i didn't have any bottle caps around
so i looked for somthing the same size
never guess i'd use a spice lid on my magna

Whatever you use...I'd still be putting some kind of sealant around them to ensure there is absolutely NO unmetered air getting in.

The next mod will be to get my exhuast done which was meant to be yesterday but my brother bumped me off to Monday now.

never guess i'd use a spice lid on my magnaSpice is better than Rice!
:D

Could someone give a definitive answer on what the advantages and disadvantages are? I remember reading somewhere that there are three boxes, and each affect things differently, but don't think there was a definitive "do this one, but don't do this one, because..."

The definitive answer is this:

Try it.

If you dont like it, take it back to stock.

People will argue left right and centre about this and noone is wrong or right. It's all up to the individual to try it out.

There's no power of fuel gain to be made it's just a sound thing.

We're having the resonator debate over at www.diamanteowners.com right now too.

Basically there are two sides to the story:

Point A: The resonator acts as a bag pipe, storing a volume of air inbetween engine breaths (the engine does not create a constant vacuum or pressure in the intake). Basically meaning there is a constant pressure range for the air so that after a compression cycle the engine does not have to rebuild pressure in order to get a good intake of air. This is the for argument of air intake resonators.

Point B: The resonator just produces a turbulance in the intake system that slows the intake speed but muffles the sound which would be the case in a semi-luxury car. So replacing with a more "straight through" will increase the velocity of the air coming into the engine, thus meaning faster combustion.

There's obviously no clear winner in the performance arguement, and we're really only talking ~5hp at the crank (2hp at the wheels!) so that really isnt here nor there, if you want a loud growl when you floor it then get rid of the resonators, if you want a sleeper that your 'opposition' cant hear approaching then keep them in there.

I personally went the straight through route, got rid of the resonators and stock intake pipe in exchange for a polished stainless steel pipe. A lot louder, seems to be more powerful but that could be in my head due to the sound. But it does look a lot cleaner in the bay!

Either way its all getting pulled out for the twins anyway :D

i did read someone its basically a box that muffles the sound.
as the air passes through it creates a sound, and these big boxes sort of cancel out the sound, there tuned to a certain frequency or something.
so when you remove them the sound cannot be muffled, and, well, ya hear it!

i know its as technical as Dpack_1's but sorta along the same lines
i doubt there is any performance loss at all.
i dont see how removing 2 large boxes filled with nothing can decrease performance, but thats up to the induvidual to decide.

my verdict?
well me and jellico have basically the same setup excpet he's using a stock filter and im using a K&N.
for some reason he doesnt have to rev his much for it to sound awesome (something like 2000rpm was it????) whereas mine has to go past about 3300rpm for it to sound meaty.

it really does scare the s**t out of people when you over take them :D lol :badgrin:

That would be because the stock air filter allows less air into the car, the only reason K&N is a good filter is because its actually letting more air through (albeit dirtier but who cares right :D).

So yeah, if you sat the two cars side by side you'll notice the K&N probably sounds beastly at all ranges in comparision... just that at higher rpm's it gets even louder.

The reason it sounds louder with a stock filter at lower rpm's is because the enigine is trying to suck air through tighter holes on the stock filter so kinda gets a different kind of louder... Like a unhealthy engine loud instead of nicely tuned loud... and because the engine is being overworked it sounds this way at a lower rpm range. Basically a K&N filter lets more air through at the risk of letting dirtier air in (compensating speed for longetivity), but when you're talking down to microns its not really worth arguing.

This in turn means the car with the k&n gets an added sleeper bonus as its 'quieter' when cruising then gets that jump at 3000rpms :D

Hope that makes sense?

oh ok....yeah makes sense.

ill just stick with my K&N then...no use getting rid of a filter purely on sounds :)

']oh ok....yeah makes sense.

ill just stick with my K&N then...no use getting rid of a filter purely on sounds :)


Added a few changes to my last post, but overall i'd say stick with K&N, the difference in life over performance is minmal, and if you dont clean the filter every week after about a month of driving through some dust and general road debris you'll clog the filter to a nice even degree.

I guess it all comes down to preference, do you do more then 10 miles a day (sorry, I really dont know kilometers!) or is your D a project car built for speed.

You could always get an aftermarket pod filter instead of the K&N panel. They're not as restrictive as the OEM filter, but not as open as the K&N... plus you get the aftermarket under bonnet look. Thats what i've got and there's no turning back for me.

(Its a knock off HKS that i have, circular/cone shaped pod, the scares you hear on only oval shaped filters working is a myth! i still get up to 30mpg on the highway which is more then enough for me)

Added a few changes to my last post, but overall i'd say stick with K&N, the difference in life over performance is minmal, and if you dont clean the filter every week after about a month of driving through some dust and general road debris you'll clog the filter to a nice even degree.

I guess it all comes down to preference, do you do more then 10 miles a day (sorry, I really dont know kilometers!) or is your D a project car built for speed.

You could always get an aftermarket pod filter instead of the K&N panel. They're not as restrictive as the OEM filter, but not as open as the K&N... plus you get the aftermarket under bonnet look. Thats what i've got and there's no turning back for me.

(Its a knock off HKS that i have, circular/cone shaped pod, the scares you hear on only oval shaped filters working is a myth! i still get up to 30mpg on the highway which is more then enough for me)

yeah dood i do more then 10 miles a day (about 15 or so kilometers)
no it aint built for speed....lol.....its an auto.
as for the POD filter.....well ill make up my mind on that next year...as far as im concernerd, the filter is doing its job and sounds nice.....if i think the POD is worth the extra $$$ then ill do it but its not high on my to do list of mods.

quick question...how often do you have to clean the filters?

again that depends on your mileage... i've had mine in for about 3000 miles and not cleaned it yet, i can tell its getting a little discolored and got a couple bugs that i pick out now and again but it depends what you're going for.

You'll get better mileage the more its clogged, but more performance the cleaner it is... i'd say as a rule every oil change. If you run dino lube then every 3000 miles, synthetic, every 7500 miles.

Thats the norm in america, but adds up to weird numbers here...

3000miles = 4827kilometers
7500miles = 12067.5kilometers

1 Mile = 1.609 Kilometers. :cool:

1 Mile = 1.609 Kilometers. :cool:

Ha, yeah, but when you're 4 shots of vodka per 1 can of red bull into a drinking binge thats not an easy math question!

just did the mod then with 2 powerade lids, installed nice and easy, as per the threads instructions, but no notable changes WHATSOEVER, no different sound, no different performance, nothings chaged, was it even worth doing it, and now keeping it? since i only did it 5 mins ago and went for a test drive ill give it a few days, but the outcome is slightly dissapointing.

Some people notice a difference, some people don't.

I noticed a slight difference in sound, nothing performance wise that was really noticeable...maybe a TINY little bit in the initial pickup but that was all.

Anyway. This has been discussed so many times that closing this thread is very justified.

As I said before:

Just give it a go.

Just did the mod on my mum's 2.6ltr Auto TS with two gatorade bottle caps. Might have to spray them matt black so they don't look sus.
Ok, drove it around the block and noticed a more *grumble* after exactly 3000rpm no joke :badgrin:
Also when i accelerate i have noticed a bit more *response*. Not bad at all comming from a 2004 SAS horsepower hero competitor ;)

I think this mod is great, totally inexpensive and does a nice job!
Stupid me only placed one bottle cap in one of the open holes, and left the other one uncapped. I tried to start the car and it wouldn't work it would just bog down. So i placed the second cap on and TA DA! :D

Thank you very much for the mod. All I need to do now is spray them black and its time to race

Just kidding :P

Great stuff!

good stuff dood, i see you've caught the magna modding bug :bowrofl:

the Mckormics spice lids are a better fit, read up further in the thread, i had another convert do this hehe
good on ya man, now just Mr.Sheen the intake lol

Thanks! Hahahaha yeah the engine bay needs a bit of cleaning doesn't it :shock: Looks like it just came from a long drive through alice springs :doh:

I hope these little bottle caps don't decide to pop off one day or melt away :)
And i found one mckormic spice in my kitchen but i've already put these bottle caps on and the first one i've pushed quite a bit in :redface: So it'll be a bit of a mission to pry it out hmmmm

If there's room, try screwing the bottle back into the lid, then once it's tight, keep twisting and pull the bottle outwards...

if it's really stuck, try drilling a small hole into the lid, then some coathanger wire with the last half inch or so bent into a hook should do the trick...

I'm about to try the McCormick's option... I like the fact that there's no chance of it being sucked inwards.

Cheers to whoever came up with this idea.

Dicky your a legend! :bowrofl:
Thats a great idea mate thanks for that! i'll try that tomorrow.. still have the bottle so i'll give it a shot!

Thanks heaps

Give it a go and let us know how it went yeah!

credit - jellico

What is with people and bottle caps? I guess you will use vegi oil in your engines next.

Go to Bunnings, get a 35mm PVC end cap, they are about a buck each. These are strong as and will not fall out/in

DO NOT USE SILICONE ON YOUR INTAKE OR ENGINE!!!!! not if you want your O2 sensor to keep working....the silica will destroy it and your cat.

Use the proper sealant available from most auto stors that state they are safe for EFI engines.

Either this or keep the resonators on, there is a page on the soarer web site, he has done dyno tests on a soarer and a commo, found the best figures were with these on. He is a PHD in engineering so would guess he knows about volume etc.

:shock:

ah yes...

but the closest my Magna will ever come to racing is to transport my downhill bike,

and if the intake resonator mod gives a 1% increase or decrease in performance, who cares,
but if it gives a 100% increase in how good you think it sounds, which is highly subjective to opinion,
then it's worth doing.

we have a saying on the bike forums... 'pics or it didn't happen!'
got a link to this mystical soarer / conformodore (sorry 'performadore BRO' :D) test you speak of?

:P

Thanks for the heads up on the silica though. Probably saved a few people a lot of trouble...

To be honest, I hadn't thought of sealant, and it would seem that the factory didn't either.
I'd just use a few layers of electrical tape anyway.

What is with people and bottle caps? I guess you will use vegi oil in your engines next.

Go to Bunnings, get a 35mm PVC end cap, they are about a buck each. These are strong as and will not fall out/in

DO NOT USE SILICONE ON YOUR INTAKE OR ENGINE!!!!! not if you want your O2 sensor to keep working....the silica will destroy it and your cat.

Use the proper sealant available from most auto stors that state they are safe for EFI engines.

Either this or keep the resonators on, there is a page on the soarer web site, he has done dyno tests on a soarer and a commo, found the best figures were with these on. He is a PHD in engineering so would guess he knows about volume etc.

Lucky I used caulking compound thats water based then ;)

Just curious as to how set silicone can destroy your O2 sensor and the cat?

The silica, when it burns, reacts with the Platinum on the cat and also coats the sensor. Even in the intake system it will have a vapour/residue which will cause this.

Most workshop manuals which deal with newer cars will show this

ah yes...

but the closest my Magna will ever come to racing is to transport my downhill bike,

and if the intake resonator mod gives a 1% increase or decrease in performance, who cares,
but if it gives a 100% increase in how good you think it sounds, which is highly subjective to opinion,
then it's worth doing.

we have a saying on the bike forums... 'pics or it didn't happen!'
got a link to this mystical soarer / conformodore (sorry 'performadore BRO' :D) test you speak of?

:P

Thanks for the heads up on the silica though. Probably saved a few people a lot of trouble...

To be honest, I hadn't thought of sealant, and it would seem that the factory didn't either.
I'd just use a few layers of electrical tape anyway.

www.planetsoarer.com there was also a link on my web page with the article for some time howver this is now gone.

You will have to search for the article as it is old. He has the qualifications and more important the dyno tests to prove his theory. Very mystical :confused:

The silica, when it burns, reacts with the Platinum on the cat and also coats the sensor. Even in the intake system it will have a vapour/residue which will cause this.

Most workshop manuals which deal with newer cars will show this

Interesting, because a properly set silicone shouldn't have any residue or vapour. Or do you mean it'll do that AS it's setting?