View Full Version : New to installing amps.
DJ Dooms Day
21-11-2005, 12:42 PM
Right, i just bourght 2 new amps and i'm wondering on how to wire it all up via the boot.
I have a 92 Magna and i'm gonna need to know how to get those fat assed power cables down to the back. I bourght 2x2 gauge and 2x4 gauge for the two amps and i'm only realising how really how fat they are.
Where exactly do i plug those cables into the car power? Any little secret holes i need to know about?
I'm hoping i've missed a tutorial on this coz i've looked high and low.
DJ Dooms Day
21-11-2005, 01:01 PM
Ok done some more reading, where exactly are these left, center and right wiring harnesses? Are there any tricks to getting the wiring through easy?
I'd move this to car audio.. If you're wanting some serious power you'd come straight off the battery, buy a new set of terminals that have the guage wiring you need and run it down under the trim, remember to keep all your signal and sound wires to one side and power to the other, helps eliminate interference.
On the other-hand you could get your battery relocated to your boot (no idea on cost) and then running the power cables would be a sinch, of course you'd need a bolted battery housing (like one of those black ones just bolted to your boot floor) and ventilation to make it a.o.k or else you'd get a little sticker from the folkes in blue (if they ever found out).
If you're running a system as serious as this wiring is you'd probably need some massive amount of wiring to use with capacitors etc.. i'd personally just go to a good car audio shop and talk an install with them, i know at northfield who put in my eclipse HU they said a basic amp install is about $150 inc required wiring and if you already had the wire its obviously cheaper (plus they'd take half as long as you would in doing it).
I'd move this to car audio.. If you're wanting some serious power you'd come straight off the battery, buy a new set of terminals that have the guage wiring you need and run it down under the trim, remember to keep all your signal and sound wires to one side and power to the other, helps eliminate interference.
On the other-hand you could get your battery relocated to your boot (no idea on cost) and then running the power cables would be a sinch, of course you'd need a bolted battery housing (like one of those black ones just bolted to your boot floor) and ventilation to make it a.o.k or else you'd get a little sticker from the folkes in blue (if they ever found out).
If you're running a system as serious as this wiring is you'd probably need some massive amount of wiring to use with capacitors etc.. i'd personally just go to a good car audio shop and talk an install with them, i know at northfield who put in my eclipse HU they said a basic amp install is about $150 inc required wiring and if you already had the wire its obviously cheaper (plus they'd take half as long as you would in doing it).
DJ Dooms Day
21-11-2005, 01:38 PM
Well theres no way in hell i'm moving the battery to the back, thats just silly.
What i actually have to run the wiring STRAIGHT off the battery? I thought it'd pass the alternator first.
Erg, and that means i have to run the bloody things through the firewall, any tutorials on that?
Also, i have two amps, does this mean i have to run TWO sets of power cable through the firewall and to the battery or can i just run one set of cabling through (2 gauge) and hook the second set up on that after its been through the firewall.
Well theres no way in hell i'm moving the battery to the back, thats just silly.
What i actually have to run the wiring STRAIGHT off the battery? I thought it'd pass the alternator first.
Erg, and that means i have to run the bloody things through the firewall, any tutorials on that?
Also, i have two amps, does this mean i have to run TWO sets of power cable through the firewall and to the battery or can i just run one set of cabling through (2 gauge) and hook the second set up on that after its been through the firewall.
Yeah its a pain in the ass trust me but thats where you'll get the most power and the whole point of running massive cables is to carry heaps of amps so you dont want to bring 2 gauge off 20 gauge wiring from a harness, thats silly. what i'd do is just make a hole below an existing one for your ecu harness the same size and get the same rubber grommet to fit in there but put your massive rope through there and then feed that up the back then make a split and feed each amp in series rather than in parrelell that way if you ditch an amp or it goes pop you still have one firing on its own juice... if your amps arn't 4x1000wrms your going stupid with the wiring.
DJ Dooms Day
21-11-2005, 02:07 PM
Well what gauge do you suggest? I have 5m of 2 gauge (x2, so 10m) wiring thats ready to be hooked up to the battery right now. Do you suggest i just put the 2 gauge through the firewall then split it into two sets of 4 gauge for the 2 amps?
One amp is 2x150wrms (500wrms total) and the other is 4x100wrms (760wrms total).
Poita
21-11-2005, 04:31 PM
Read this, it might answer a lot of your questions: (it also has a few photos)
My amp install (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19620&page=1&pp=20)
The place I went through my firewall isnt the best, but use the search function, and you will find where others put theirs through.
Also see my response in your other thread. (try not to post 2 threads on the same thing though... otherwise you get 2 convos where it could all be condensed in the one thread.)
Cheers
Pete
s_tim_ulate
21-11-2005, 05:59 PM
2 gauge isnt that big, I run 0 gauge, and still off the stock battery with stock altenator.
Dont use capacitors, they are a waste of money. Modern amps can handle fluctuations in power supply easily.
Stick with ur 2 gauge. You'll only need one run, then get a distro block in the boot to split it up to both amps.
Find a suitable grommet in the firewall that you can splice into.
Make sure you fuse AT THE BATTERY within a handspan or closer. The fuse is to protect the wire from shorting against the body. Make sure the wire is cable tied so it doesnt move around in the engine bay.
Peace
Tim
DJ Dooms Day
21-11-2005, 06:34 PM
Thanks for the info Tim. Yeah i was wondering about those fuses at the battery, how do i set that up? I'm going to JB tomorrow, would they have all the gear?
I also need to buy some sort of plug that'll allow me to hook up the stock connector AND the add-on cables on the terminals at the battery. Where would i find this stuff? JB?
I read in another thread that you should add up all the fuses on my amp and then put a fuse of slightly lower rating on the cable. Each of my 2 amps have 3 fuses each, one with 3x30 and the other 3x25. So should i get a fuse around the 140-160 range? How does this work? Do i buy some sort of little box that houses the fuses and you cut the 2G cable in two and put the box in between the two ends?
One other thing, you think i should run another ground from the -ve on the battery to the engine chasis?
EDIT:
Dont run a second line for ground. The ground point should be straight to the chassis as close as possible to the amps. Beware of fuel tank.
Make sure you sand back the point well for a good connection.
I'm guessing your talking about the ground coming from the amps. Yeah i'll run a ground straight to the chasis in the boot.
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