Hey All,

Just curious to what brand oil you guys use on your magna's??? And what you would recommend for 3rd gens???

I have a 98 Advacne and last service used a semi-synthetic oil form repco (15-40 I think) :think: after the guy talked me out of NOT using magnatec... :doubt:

I don't know, might just be trippin :nuts: but it just don't feel right?/! Car seems louder at idle and driving until it warms up...

On all my other cars I have used magnatec and no dramas :D

Hit me!!!

Sorry fcuked up main title (tried changin but can't)... 3rd generation magna's not gen 3 holdens :nuts:

I've used Valvoline XLD in my previous cars and so now have began using it my TJ.Anybody know of a reason why I shouldn't continue to do so?

I've been a fan of Valvoline XLD Premium oil for years now.Used it in my VN Commodore which has done 280 odd thousand Km's and never had to touch the motor.I'm now using it in my TJ Magna too.Others may think differently.

There is no answer to this question. It's like asking what's the best toothpaste or best shampoo. Everybody's got their own opinion, but for the most part, you get what you pay for.

Go to www.valvoline.com.au and have a scout around.I notice that they recommend XLD Lo-Vis 10W/30

i dont recommend using magnatec....seems to thin and makes your tappets tick more than usual

I notice that they recommend XLD Lo-Vis 10W/30
If you want early engine wear and a noisy engine which needs oil changes more regularly.

20w50 for australian conditions is perfect, and dispite what the manufacturers stamp on the back of the bottle, thin oil does not increase performance in your average run of the mill family car.

20W50 is pretty thick. I'd say 15W40 is probably about right on the money. We use Motul on all our cars as we have tested and proven that is the best value for money performance engine oil.

for new cars, I'd suggest Motul 8100 Xcess $52/5L. Engine oil is probably the least anyone would think or care about, but if you don't protect you engine with the best stuff, why bother improving anything else when your engine is loose or dead.

My advice as a multiple rally team sponsor, performance car club sponsor, circuit race car owner and performance parts consultant.

would ambient temps make a difference to this???

Tim

I've been thinking about changing from Magnatec to Shell Helix Plus 15W-50.

Worth doing?

I went from Shell Helix Plus 15w50 to Penrite HRP10 back to Shell again.
No big difference from what I can tell, but I'm not the type to open up my engine and have a look.
All I do is check the oil once in a while.

Go to www.valvoline.com.au and have a scout around.I notice that they recommend XLD Lo-Vis 10W/30

I'm using XLD lo-vis despite my natural judgement(scared **** outa me pouring it in, looked like friggin water) i'd prefer to use 20/50 like Turbo-charade said, but having said that the car is great, quiet as a mouse at idle, sooo much quieter than my missus mums TH it's not funny, so I think I'll stick with it.

Matthius

This topic should be sticky, I kind of tired directing to what type of oil change recommended lol. I have listed nearly all 3rd gen Magna recomended oil from Mobil and Shell, They are basically personal peference.

Currently I am using Magnetic Castrol, is ok, nothing great nothing bad either.

Please note that NEARLY ALL Oil companies have recommend partial Syn oils for the 3rd gen.

Castrol= Magentic
Shell= Helix Plus
Mobil= Super Syn or something
Penzoil=Sythetic blend
etc.... done all the search from all the sites. In doubt, ask them.

Shell have recommended Helix Ultra for fully synthetic if you want to go full syn.
Mobil 1 was the only site that recommended All types of oils.

Please refer to the following URL:

Engine Oil for 3rd Gen (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25925&highlight=engine+oil)

Its pretty basic, choose the brand that you most comfortable with and use the partial syn grade. My mitsubishi dealer here uses Shell.

Hope this helps.

So does "get what you pay for" apply in this situation? I assume some of the above mentioned oils would be cheaper than others...

And what is the difference between synthetic, non synthetic oils??? :confused: (assuming semi is a combination of both). I was always under the impression synthetic's were mainly used for performance cars. Would the average magna driver notice any difference if using the same grade synthetic as opposed to non??? :think:

I'm just basically after an oil, that quietens the engine on start up and cold driving, one where i can start the car, wait 30secs- a minute and off i go (obviously driving it easy till engine temp climbs up)

So does "get what you pay for" apply in this situation? I assume some of the above mentioned oils would be cheaper than others...

And what is the difference between synthetic, non synthetic oils??? :confused: (assuming semi is a combination of both). I was always under the impression synthetic's were mainly used for performance cars. Would the average magna driver notice any difference if using the same grade synthetic as opposed to non??? :think:

I'm just basically after an oil, that quietens the engine on start up and cold driving, one where i can start the car, wait 30secs- a minute and off i go (obviously driving it easy till engine temp climbs up)
Well if you just want to look after your car, get XLD premium for 15 bucks a bottle and change it 3 times a year. Synth oil is really only made for its anti coke agents for turbo cars, and is too thin normaly for the average family car (magna).

Just get a decient oil, for under 20 dollars, and change your oil more reguarly if you really want to prolong your engine life the extra 4,000km. Expencive and thin oils unless needed by close tolerenced engines can harm motors. Oil pumps need pressure to work effectivly. Thin oil might get to the top of the engine quicker(barely), but it also just means it drains to the bottom quicker and its protective film leaves surfaces quicker.

I might be a broken record about this oil thing, but i seriously dont believe a early 90's designed motor needs a thin oil, nor do i think that its worth the 50 bucks a bottle for extra protection when you can just get a quality shell/penrite/valvoline/etc oil for under 20 dollars which complies to all the nessicary standards and specs for our motors. They money is better spent on quality filters and regular oil changes.

I run 20w50 SuperHP which is $17 dollars a bottle on a heavily modified, high revving motor. I cool the turbo off a little before turning it off (so i dont coke the turbo up) which means I dont need synthetic oil. My oil gets changed about 10 times a year.

Penrite HPR10 works goodly, i recomend it

You could go putting super expensive fully synthetic stuff in it.. but heres a news flash, a 6G74 or 6G72 is NOT a racing engine!! nor is it a highly tuned sports car engine and anyone who says it is is having a bit of a wank! its completely un-necessary and a waste of time. As long as you change your semi-synthetic oil regularly (i usually do somewhere between 5000-7500k's) then your engine will be a happy lil vegemite

Yes, you pay for what you get.

I refuse to argue over which is better, as this will result in some personal peferrence of oil war. I remembered when I was a new member, here I was being to arrogant to just say that Castrol Magnetic would do and Mobil 1 was overkill. If you do the research carefully you find it worth while. And again is also based on each person's budget. Changing oil more regularly plus oil filters just adds up to the same as using higher grade oil. again, all personal pef.

As said, it is HIGHLY recommended to use semi syn oils over normal premium grade. Read most of the articles from website and you would roughly get the idea. Mobil was the only website in australia that recommended the fully syn oil but again is very expensive. I have personally asked Shell about their fully syn Helix Ultra for a Magna and it was approved by the representative and assured safety for the engine.

If you see the recommended Mobil 1, the one that they recommended for fully syn is also not their top of the line product. There is a difference between the GOLD and Silve Mobil 1 oils of which we are recommended the silver one for normal cars.

Just in case some of you were wondering, even 2nd gen Magnas are rcommended using semi syn oils, not just 3rd gen. but again its all up to you. IMO semi syn is pretty good enough. Most companies have stated semi syn oils are recommeded for cars made after 1995 or something, but to be sure, most of these shops like super cheap autos have a oil guide to tell and indicate how much oil to put and what type to use.

i personally wouldnt be putting 100% mineral based oil in anything built after 1990, but thats just me. My rule of thumb is basically if its a post-1990 car and its a normal car, semi-syn is the go. If its a high performance car (ie a turbo engine or something that revs to 9000rpm and stuff) then i would go for fully synthetic.

As a matter of interest, i like penrite for semi-synthetic oils, and mobil 1 for fully synthetic. I have heard that stuff like motul and fuchs is very good, but i have never had any experience with them before and therefore not willing to recomend them to anyone as that would be stupid

I might be a broken record about this oil thing, but i seriously dont believe a early 90's designed motor needs a thin oil, nor do i think that its worth the 50 bucks a bottle for extra protection when you can just get a quality shell/penrite/valvoline/etc oil for under 20 dollars which complies to all the nessicary standards and specs for our motors. They money is better spent on quality filters and regular oil changes.



While I'm with you on the not running thin synth oil on a standard engine by preference the engine is not an early 90's design, it's mid 90's, the 3rd gen 24v doesn't bear much in common with the 12v v6. No knock sensor, 9.0/1 instead of 10/1, 24 valve - the engine layout is reversed, so can anyone confirm whether the castings are similar ? because they might for all we know run tighter oil passages than the old 12v.

Matthius

Ok so for what I want to achieve, a quiet engine cold or warm, i should go a thicker (20-50 semi synthetic) oil correct??? Oil changes 5000-7500k's...


I'm using XLD lo-visMatthius

What oil is that??? :confused: Is it 20-50*? (*is called viscosity right??? :doubt: - sorry L's)

Ok so for what I want to achieve, a quiet engine cold or warm, i should go a thicker (20-50 semi synthetic) oil correct??? Oil changes 5000-7500k's...


no, i believe that is too thick personally. 10-50 is more what i would be looking at. At my next oil change (probably this weekend) im putting in some penrite HPR10, i recomend you do the same, but its up to you

I read the title and got happy, then I read the thread :shock:

no, i believe that is too thick personally. 10-50 is more what i would be looking at. At my next oil change (probably this weekend) im putting in some penrite HPR10, i recomend you do the same, but its up to you

Thats about right, I be using something like this if you want.

Cheers!

Cheers guys, will give it a shot... Ol boy is obsessed with using penzoil (spelling) might look into that too, but i think its fairly expensive... :confused:

Cheers guys, will give it a shot... Ol boy is obsessed with using penzoil (spelling) might look into that too, but i think its fairly expensive... :confused:

nah penziol is fairly cheap, its what i use to change the oil in my dads work van

go for some Redline 15w-40, i'm using it in my magna and i'm very impressed, sure you pay the dollars for in but i have no tappet noise, revs more freely then ever before and she is good for 15K-20K before changing, just do your filter and top it up again. but at $110 for 3.7L it's not everyones cup of tea

I use Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 in mine.

I found the bottle of oil, its a semi synthetic 10W-40 from repco.

Initially i thought (actually was told) changing oil may eliminate my "grinding noise" problem on cold driving, but i don't think anyone here using the same grade has this problem?/! :doubt:

The car makes a grinding noise when taking off (especially while turning), only for a few seconds as you start rolling. Then as the car warms up, no noise :confused:

Anyone experience anything similar???

Oil and Petrol must be 2 of the biggest things discussed on these forums.

Use the Search button.

I found the bottle of oil, its a semi synthetic 10W-40 from repco.

Initially i thought (actually was told) changing oil may eliminate my "grinding noise" problem on cold driving, but i don't think anyone here using the same grade has this problem?/! :doubt:

The car makes a grinding noise when taking off (especially while turning), only for a few seconds as you start rolling. Then as the car warms up, no noise :confused:

Anyone experience anything similar???

check if your CV boots have split.

Hmm, :think: someone else suggested that too... No idea what im looking for so might have to book it in... I assume if they're split, then they would need replacing?/! Is this a costly exercise? :confused: