Hey guys,
My transmission oil needs replacing (the auto still changes fairly well, but the oil is dirty and i'd like to see if changing the oil will improve it).

Now i have an Auto, on the 2.6L astron II, What is the procedure to do this?
Is it as simple as unbolting a nut underneath and draining the oil, then filling it up through the dipstick? (which is possible on 3rd gens, not sure on 2nd gen 4 cyl, which is why i ask).

Thanks for any help/suggestions :).

I think to do a flush u unscrew the bottom of the oil filter and drain the fluid then run a low grade oil with the engine on for 20mins then refill and see how it went.
Hope that helps

I might do a flush like this myself, can I ask a couple of additional questions.

(a) What grade of engine oil do you suggest, and what quantity do you need to flush the trans with?

(b) What gear should the trans be in while the engine is running? I assume P or N, or do you have to rotate through all of the gears to flush the system properly?

(c) I assume that you drain the engine oil out before you refill the trannie with ATF, but how do you prevent any residual engine oil that might be left in the trans from contaminating the fresh ATF? Can you use ATF instead of engine oil to prevent such contamination, or doesn't it flush the trans properly?

I'll probably be tackling this myself in a few days.

The way i understand is like this: first ya need the mitsubishi grade fluid or Castrol TQM-ST. Do not use dexron III. Then ya need a new transmission sump gasket and internal oil filter.

Get the car up to operating temperature (eg, go for a 10min drive), then allow it to cool for aprox 10 mins (so you dont burn yourself working under the car).

Undo the plug on the differential housing and allow to drain. Then undo the sump plug and drain all fluid.

At this stage, you can either; replace the drain plugs, refil with fresh fluid then go for a drive and flush again (to flush and mix with remaining transmission fluid in torque converter etc...), or just go on and replace the filter. (note, a transmission flush/additive can also be used)

Undo sump retaining bolts then remove sump. Undo filter and remove. Replace Filter. Clean sump and magnets. Clean all remaining gasket off mating surfaces. Apply gasket then replace sump. Torque to factory specs. Replace drain plugs. Refill fluid.

Start the car up and listen for unusual sounds and check for leaks. Then go for a drive to check that shifting is normal.

Garnish with fresh parsley, and serve. :D

I might do a flush like this myself, can I ask a couple of additional questions.

(a) What grade of engine oil do you suggest, and what quantity do you need to flush the trans with?

(b) What gear should the trans be in while the engine is running? I assume P or N, or do you have to rotate through all of the gears to flush the system properly?

(c) I assume that you drain the engine oil out before you refill the trannie with ATF, but how do you prevent any residual engine oil that might be left in the trans from contaminating the fresh ATF? Can you use ATF instead of engine oil to prevent such contamination, or doesn't it flush the trans properly?

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DO NOT USE ENGINE OIL IN AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION :rant:
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first ya need the mitsubishi grade fluid or Castrol TQM-ST. Do not use dexron III.



Ok, FYI: 4 Litres of Castrol TQM-ST will cost you around $40, 5 Litres (YES FIVE LITRES) of the same tranny fluid from your local Mitsu dealer (in a pretty, sealed Mitsu bottle) will cost you $31, ( I purchased this one week ago)


Mitsu GENUINE =$9 LESS for 1 Litre MORE and I returned my Castrol TQM-ST the same day!

Ok, FYI: 4 Litres of Castrol TQM-ST will cost you around $40, 5 Litres (YES FIVE LITRES) of the same tranny fluid from your local Mitsu dealer (in a pretty, sealed Mitsu bottle) will cost you $31, ( I purchased this one week ago)


Mitsu GENUINE =$9 LESS for 1 Litre MORE and I returned my Castrol TQM-ST the same day!

Cheers for the info. Is the fluid exactly the same? Or do castrol use a different base or other additives?

Imo, it would probably be better to purchase the mitsu fluid and an additional bottle of AT treatment/stabiliser just to keep it in top contition under heavy loads and/or high rpm.

On another note, if you are doing a flush before changing filters and IF the castrol fluid is better, it might be wise to use the mitsu fluid for the flush (being cheaper) and the castrol for the final refil.

when changing the tranny oil, do u need just a filter and new oil and thats it? WIll all the oil come out from everywhere? Im just worried because ive been told there is about 9 litres needed. just wanna make suer :D

thanks
chris

check out this thread (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27036) for a procedure to flush your transmission --- specifically youda's post

procedure for tranny flush

first bring tranny up to operating temp then turn off

remove return line from oil cooler and direct towards empty container

start engine in park and slowly feed fresh oil into tranny via dipstick tube

observe the coller of exitting tranny fluid until it is also clean

while tranny is running get someone to put there foot on the brake and run through all the gears while the other checks colour of exitting fluid.

when oil is clean stop engine and re connect return line.

remove tranny sump and inspect filter (its the metallic saucepan like thing that pokes out, it should pull right off).

pull filter appart and inspect for bits of metal.

replace with new filter and sump gasket.

the oil that was in the sump at this point should be reusable but check first.

make sure level is good and your off.

cheers dave :cool: :D

...the oil that was in the sump at this point should be reusable but check first...

Umm.... it is not good at all to re-use any transmission fluid as the AT is very sensitive.


http://ballaratmitsu.proboards3.com/index.cgi?board=Tech&action=display&thread=1135084337
I was gonna post this up on these forums, just haven't had the time yet... its 2nd gen specific.

yes but at this point it should all be fresh new fluid otherwise the flush was not done properly/ or by checking this"fresh fluid" should help diagnose what the problem is ie
still discoullered- burnt cluth packs
bits of metal- worn planetary set

After following the thread and reading the tranny flush procedure it leads to i would not recomend following this procedure as this will result in dirty oil and filter remainig in transmission. the procedure in the link http://ballaratmitsu.proboards3.com...read=1135084337
1. does not remove the dirty oil in the converter as it does not drain into the sump resulting in alot of dirty oil mixing with your new oil


cheers dave

After following the thread and reading the tranny flush procedure it leads to i would not recomend following this procedure as this will result in dirty oil and filter remainig in transmission. the procedure in the link http://ballaratmitsu.proboards3.com...read=1135084337
1. does not remove the dirty oil in the converter as it does not drain into the sump resulting in alot of dirty oil mixing with your new oil


cheers dave


Section 2 and Section 3 both contain secondary flushes, which should be sufficient to remove at least 60-80% of the old fluid in the torque converter. Any remaining percentage of fluid will be run through the new filter anyway at some stage of the fluid cycle.

Did you actually read all 3 sections? Section 3 involves changing the filter and flushing twice with fluid.

First of all DO NOT REMOVE THE SUMP yourself if you are not familiar with transmissions. For the cost of a blocked valve body get it done professionally.

If you still insist and want to do a fairly reasonable job.

Remove both drain plugs, refill.

Remove the cooler line, start car and run while an assistant keeps filling up the trans. This is to flush the valve body and the torque converter.

Bring upto temp and fill to full line.

ALWAYS use mitsu fluid, even if you pay a little more it is worth the trans. Castrol claim thiers is ok, i would not use castorl anything in my car

First of all, would you be happy with only removing 80% of the dirty fluid, and having that other 20% mixed with your clean fluid. I should hope not.

Referance to mad magna-First of all DO NOT REMOVE THE SUMP yourself if you are not familiar with transmissions. For the cost of a blocked valve body get it done professionally.


How can you replace the filter with the sump on? Removing the sump is a very simple process, and the filter only requires the removel of six bolts. just make sure you have a spare filter and sump gasket.

First of all DO NOT REMOVE THE SUMP yourself if you are not familiar with transmissions. For the cost of a blocked valve body get it done professionally.

If you still insist and want to do a fairly reasonable job.

Remove both drain plugs, refill.

Remove the cooler line, start car and run while an assistant keeps filling up the trans. This is to flush the valve body and the torque converter.

Bring upto temp and fill to full line.

ALWAYS use mitsu fluid, even if you pay a little more it is worth the trans. Castrol claim thiers is ok, i would not use castorl anything in my car


Castrol is fine but if you sure want to pay a lot more for their oil be my guest. As recommended use Mitsubishi SP3