When going over 60ks and the brakes are pressed the car vibrates, more so the steering wheel (vibrates side to side rapidly) lately its becoming are real pain in the ass.

Could it be wheel alignment?

I have the same problem, after I have changed the rotors. But I have realised that after the rotors warm up it stops. but mine does not go side to side, but does a bit of vibrations.

Warped rotors, bad pads, over tightened wheel nuts, unbalanced wheel/alignment (though if that were the case you'd feel it more in going then stopping so my guess is one of the first three)

Yeah I suppose that makes sense now that I think about it, only happens when brake is applied, shes pretty smooth in forward flight.

^One of the first two options above - most likely the disks.


Over tightened wheel nuts?

Hardly.

I cant remember what it was but SARRAS had similar problems and was solved as the pads were not seated properly or some pins were not right, somthing along those lines. Magna breaking is so minimal warped discs are easy to get.

if its felt through the steering wheel the front rotors need machining if you feel it through the brake peddel its the rear

Rotors might need skimming... brake pads not bedded in right perhaps..

Over tightened wheel nuts?

Hardly.


"Warped rotors" is often blamed on poor materials or brake over-heating, but the over whelming majority of all warped rotors is caused by over-tightened wheel nuts.


Do a google search on it.

Sounds like warped rotors or dud pads but could also be that the caliper is not sliding freely.
The brake piston pushes out 1 pad and the caliper slides on a pair of pins to bring the other pad in. If the pins are fouled and the caliper doesnt move you get a pulling affect that feels like warped rotors.
If this is happening you'll find that 1 pad is wearing much faster than the other.
A long shot but easy 2 check. :D

If the rotors have been warped from over tightended nuts, then loosening the nuts wont fix the problem will it?, the rotors need to be machined again?

I had the same, problem on mine, most recently,,
turned out that because me wheels weren't balances right, was gettin some uneven wear(also my driving not that great 4 tyres. LOL)
anyway put up with it till got new set of tyres, and GOOONNE!!
haven't had it happen again :)

If you (the idiot at the local tire shop with the impact wrench) over torques the lug nuts on these cars, you will warp the rotors. As Ascension suggested, have the rotors re-machined.

If you ever go to the tire/rim shop, BE SURE they tighten the lug nuts to the proper specifications with a torque wrench!!!

TG

"This is a common problem on DSMs. The consensus is that improper tightening of the wheel lug nuts is often to blame. Nobody really knows if it is caused by overtightening (excessive force) or unequal tightening (uneven force). Most people put the blame on the widespread use of impact or air tools to do routine wheel operations, as well as inattentive or careless operation of said tools, which result in poorly done lug nuts"

If you (the idiot at the local tire shop with the impact wrench) over torques the lug nuts on these cars, you will warp the rotors. As Ascension suggested, have the rotors re-machined.

If you ever go to the tire/rim shop, BE SURE they tighten the lug nuts to the proper specifications with a torque wrench!!!

TG

"This is a common problem on DSMs. The consensus is that improper tightening of the wheel lug nuts is often to blame. Nobody really knows if it is caused by overtightening (excessive force) or unequal tightening (uneven force). Most people put the blame on the widespread use of impact or air tools to do routine wheel operations, as well as inattentive or careless operation of said tools, which result in poorly done lug nuts"


crap the main reason rotors get warped is getting them hot and then either hosing them when washing the car or when its raining and you hit a puddle splashing the rotor

or the brake slides ars siezed

the wheel nuts should be tightend up in a apposing pattern first lightly then tight 2nd time round

yes i know the book says use a tention wrench but it says to use it on every nut and bolt in the car if this was the case a 3hr timing belt job would be 5 hrs checking every bolt .........
would you pay an extra 2 hours for the mechanic to use a tention wrench on every bolt????

crap the main reason rotors get warped is getting them hot and then either hosing them when washing the car or when its raining and you hit a puddle splashing the rotor

or the brake slides ars siezed

the wheel nuts should be tightend up in a apposing pattern first lightly then tight 2nd time round

yes i know the book says use a tention wrench but it says to use it on every nut and bolt in the car if this was the case a 3hr timing belt job would be 5 hrs checking every bolt .........
would you pay an extra 2 hours for the mechanic to use a tention wrench on every bolt????

Torque Settings are given for a reason not just to be a pain to the mechanic. I would rather pay somebody (or myself) a extra 2 hours and have the job done properly.

FYI, here is an article on the importance of correctly tensioning wheel nuts

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/downloads/bulletin2.pdf

thats there way of getting out of warenty clames!!!!!

1.. its not possable to use a tention wrench when doing a on car disc machine

2. machining front rotors off the car is a no no because it will never be straight
most workshops do this
:nuts:

3.. ive never had a car come back with a problem after i machined the rotor on the car and used a rattle gun to tighten the wheels

4... the only car i use a tention wrench on to tighten the wheels is a landcruser..because if they are not tight enough they come loose

5 i have had cars come in with irregular hot spots in the disc surface caused by finger prints or grease

6.. most european cars will need new rotors before the pads wear out the disc is softer than the pads

7...and i have come across faulty pads that cause problems....normaly because the mechanic that did the job didnt bed the pads in propily..

It will take you a whole ten minutes (at the most) to tighten down 20 lugs nuts with a torque wrench in the proper pattern.

Time well spent !

TG

If your wobbling is combined with a pulsing feeling in the pedal then I can add one other piece of the puzzle. The magna calipers are a sliding design and if the pins on which the calipers slide become corroded or stiff, there will be wheel wobbling under moderate and higher braking, combined with a pulsing feeling in the pedal. The fix is to disassemble the calipers, regrease the pins (rubber grease one assumes - I don't actually know) and re-assemble. The local Midas shop did mine for $30 a wheel and the problem vanished for good.

It will take you a whole ten minutes (at the most) to tighten down 20 lugs nuts with a torque wrench in the proper pattern.

Time well spent !

TG

i think you should listen to magnus...... he ain't just makin this stuff up!
why don't you learn a little more about rotors before you start all these arguments.
and over something as simple as tightening a wheel.

"2. machining front rotors off the car is a no no because it will never be straight
most workshops do this"
bang on the money magnus..

i should know i was the fool who did this.. and it did absolutely JACK!
what i found was it was unbalanced front wheels,(can be from balancing weights coming off or even from uneven tire wear). under braking they would cause the steering and front of the car to vibrate..
and i know this was the problem... cause i went and had them rebalanced($14 at ur local tire shop) and WOW all gone! Funny that........
and once i rotated the tires(fronts to rears and vice versa) ... problem was back because the rears were unbalanced.
hope this helps :)

If your wobbling is combined with a pulsing feeling in the pedal then I can add one other piece of the puzzle. The magna calipers are a sliding design and if the pins on which the calipers slide become corroded or stiff, there will be wheel wobbling under moderate and higher braking, combined with a pulsing feeling in the pedal. The fix is to disassemble the calipers, regrease the pins (rubber grease one assumes - I don't actually know) and re-assemble. The local Midas shop did mine for $30 a wheel and the problem vanished for good.


Sarras,,
should actually regrease those every 2nd brake pad change.. i think, or was it every time? i can never remember..
at least thats what i have been told so don't qoute me on it...

now as far as i know the reason for the pulsating pedal is that because the exterior brake caliper is not coming inwards straight, the rotor can move between the pads,,
now if that happens then the plunger on your inner caliper will be forced back everytime the wheel rotates...IE hydraulic fluid is forced back through the pipes and naturally u feel it on the pedal... (someone please correct me if i am wrong, or filll anything i missed)