Is this worth investing in? I was thinking about getting it but if its not a significant difference than i am not gonna get it.

yes, and get an antilift kit

click my profile for what ive done... front sway and antilift kit was where i saw the BIGGEST difference...

whole new car :D

']yes, and get an antilift kit

click my profile for what ive done... front sway and antilift kit was where i saw the BIGGEST difference...

whole new car :D

How much did both these items cost?and how exactly does an anti lift kit work??

How much did both these items cost?and how exactly does an anti lift kit work??
not sure to both questions, i payed for my entire setup in one hit, and the antilift kit just stops the shock from extending when you take off AFAIK...

they were the last two things to go in as we had to wait for them to arrive from whiteline, but it was AWESOME once they went in, brought the whole setup to life :D

Front sway bar upgrade is definately worth it.

As just as an idea, I paid $180 for a whiteline front sway bar.

Front sway bar upgrade is definately worth it.

As just as an idea, I paid $180 for a whiteline front sway bar.
where did you get yours from mysti looking to get one for the white shark :D

where did you get yours from mysti looking to get one for the white shark :D
phillcom sells them mate :D

would be roughly that price i would say :D

where did you get yours from mysti looking to get one for the white shark :D

Yeh Id go with philcom.. I got mine through a friend but he will take a month to get the stuff..

so a sway bar for the front is roughly the same price as a strut brace ?

near enough too, i think slightly dearer

but when you combine the two, its AWESOME :D

when is some one going to do the whole pakage? lower stiffer springs all roung, front sway bar up a size, and rear sway bar up 3 sizes. garratee that it will turn in HARD, corner flat with lift-off over steer for the taking. One Day i will do it, but i keep seeing ppl putting thicker sway bars up front without balacing it out in the rear. turning their cars into under steering bi#c#es. I personally havent seen ANY advantage on a strut brace, unless it had VERY stiff shocks.

can someone put a picture up of the sway bar on there car ?please

Yeah i am in the US so i think i should talk to the local whiteline dealer over here. Anyway since i got that answered. How hard is it to put it in? Step by step would be nice or a brief but precise despcription.

Thanks

when is some one going to do the whole pakage? lower stiffer springs all roung, front sway bar up a size, and rear sway bar up 3 sizes. garratee that it will turn in HARD, corner flat with lift-off over steer for the taking. One Day i will do it, but i keep seeing ppl putting thicker sway bars up front without balacing it out in the rear. turning their cars into under steering bi#c#es. I personally havent seen ANY advantage on a strut brace, unless it had VERY stiff shocks.
well i'm thinking of putting the front and rear sway bar in with strut bar and king low springs on the car not sure when yet.

can someone put a picture up of the sway bar on there car ?please

here you go

when is some one going to do the whole pakage? lower stiffer springs all roung, front sway bar up a size, and rear sway bar up 3 sizes. garratee that it will turn in HARD, corner flat with lift-off over steer for the taking. One Day i will do it, but i keep seeing ppl putting thicker sway bars up front without balacing it out in the rear. turning their cars into under steering bi#c#es. I personally havent seen ANY advantage on a strut brace, unless it had VERY stiff shocks.
*waves hand furiously*

click my profile :)

:stoopid:


I've got stiffer Whiteline front + rear sway bars, Whiteline Control Springs, Lovell springs in rear, Whiteline camber kit, castor/anti-lift kit, KYB shocks in rear and adjustable Koni's in the front. No strut brace yet.

I need to get better tyres to fully experience the new dynamics of the suspension, which I'm saving up as we speak.

Kewlsolara: That's a strut brace not a sway bar :badgrin:

how hard was it to put the front sway bar on thier?

I did plan on doing a DIY install on the sway bar, but I decided not to at the last minute. I thought it might be too hard to get it out of its original location.

But after recently looking underneath, it doesn't look that difficult now.

Just had a thought though,

Jay: Do you know if the steering components have all swapped around due to being a LHS vehicle? The sway bar seems to be designed to accomodate those components with all the bending etc.

I'll get a pic of it when I find the pics.

Edit: I guess you could also flip the swaybar on installation :P

Edit: I guess you could also flip the swaybar on installation :P

how?

they bend upwards, not reversable :confused:

I wouldn't bother on a car that is never going to need it.

All it will do is make you think you can corner faster and if you have a misshap your going faster into the gutter/lamp post. Just because the car is rolling on the outside wheels a little doesn't mean its going to be slow around corners or less safe, infact with a front swaybar and no rear your going to have understeer issues when driving the car fast. Put a rear bar in and if it doesn't understeer it will oversteer with the slightest upsetting behaviour.

And doesn't a magna already have a suitable front bar?

']how?

they bend upwards, not reversable :confused:


I don't know, that was only an idea, albeit of a silly one. I can't actually remember what my front sway bar looks like.

I know it'll fit but somebody told its a ***** to get it on there. I just wanna confirm this.

I know it'll fit but somebody told its a ***** to get it on there. I just wanna confirm this.
you have connecting rods with 4 bushes each on the end of the bar, and two 2 u cups attaching it to the chassis with a bush. you need new bushes with a new bar.

still not worth the hassel i dont think. the money is better spent on a driving course, which WILL actualy make the car safer to be in and if it ever sees a track, faster there too. shaving 10ths off your rounderbout split times with a swaybar isn't going to happen.

well i will also be getting springs, rear sway bar, and anti lift kit. i am not autoxing with the car, just wanna have fun car to ride in. But if its too much of a hassle than i'll leave it alone.

Does Dobinson have a 3" drop? Or 76mm? If so whats the part number?

I would get the springs for the looks, maybe some struts down the track, but getting all that gear I think would be a waste of money. You can have fun in any car. Even with some "spirited" driving through the hills, swaybars and strut braces and antilift kits and camber kits etc etc are not going to make it more enjoyable, they make sfa difference on a track, as if your going to be blown away with the difference they make when your barely working the car. Lowered springs will suffice, especialy 3 inch dumped :cool:

I would get the springs for the looks, maybe some struts down the track, but getting all that gear I think would be a waste of money. You can have fun in any car. Even with some "spirited" driving through the hills, swaybars and strut braces and antilift kits and camber kits etc etc are not going to make it more enjoyable, they make sfa difference on a track, as if your going to be blown away with the difference they make when your barely working the car. Lowered springs will suffice, especialy 3 inch dumped :cool:
i assume your talking about drag racing here, which is not what my setup is for...

however if you ARE talking about drag racing, then i agree totally :)

(keep in mind, FWD is not a drag platform ;))

']
(keep in mind, FWD is not a drag platform ;))

what does it matter as long as you are racing ppl in your own classs (FWD).

']i assume your talking about drag racing here, which is not what my setup is for...

however if you ARE talking about drag racing, then i agree totally :)

(keep in mind, FWD is not a drag platform ;))
Im not talking about drag racing, im talking about wasting money on suspension which isn't going to get used for anything other than wank value.

Im not talking about drag racing, im talking about wasting money on suspension which isn't going to get used for anything other than wank value.
is that directed at me?

it doesnt matter what the purpose is, be it to look cool or performance, anything that stiffens the chassy of a car will help the cornering, i corner **** loads better just by lowering the car, i would think stiffening the whole car not just one part could only add to that performance, and spirited driving will stick you ina tree in an unprepared car, having a car that can and will corner faster is more enjoyable,if you dont think so get in a lada and go for a drive then get in your charade and tell me what is more fun.

and now to show my inocence what is the difference between a strut bar anda sway bar, i know a strut bar stops the suspension moving and holds it in place (i think)

sway does the same thing to the chassis AFAIK

its pretty much on the direct opposite side of the car from the strut brace :D

Strut brace is also suppose to help with Torque steer.

']sway does the same thing to the chassis AFAIK:D

Sway bars are there to limit body roll. As you take a corner weight shifts compressing one side of the suspension while extending the other.

The sway bar (due to it's shape) limits this by transfering some of the compressed force to the side extending to try and equal out the forces on both sides.

Was directed at anyone who wastes their money on bigger swaybars just so the car doesn't roll as much yet still crawls around at a pedestiran pace saying "phhwar these bars keep it might flat"

Its just my opinoin.

Was directed at anyone who wastes their money on bigger swaybars just so the car doesn't roll as much yet still crawls around at a pedestiran pace saying "phhwar these bars keep it might flat"

Its just my opinoin.
oh right, fair enough then

cause mine gets used for what its supposed to be as a ralliart lol

yay rally yay

:nuts: I always thought the general rule for a FWD vehicle was to upgrade the rear sway bar and leave the front stock or upgrade both at the same time (providing that the rear has a larger new thickness to original thickness ratio, compared to the front).

A thicker swaybar will have the effects stated in this thread but also make that particular end of the car 'hard' opposed to soft and cause the wheels to slightly lose traction. Which may sound 'bad', but not so if you put a thicker swaybar on the back so that it returns your car to a neutral state (i.e. eliminates the understeer)

Mind you, I'm not an expert, so I'm waiting on TC's opinion on this as he is very well minded when it comes to overall car setups for circuit racing. (not drag racing - a swaybar plays practically no role in a straight line drag)

Just for reference, here is where I'm basing most of my info from: The same company that makes your swaybars; Whiteline FWD Suspension Secrets (PDF!!) (http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/articles/AS_susp_01_0202.pdf) .

I have kings lows with adjustable konis and adjustable rear sway bar and strut brace(from old car), front sway bar is going on tomorrow. With all this it has made a massive difference (not a roly poly pice of ****e) but with the stiffer rear bar you can feel the front rolling more than the back which doesnt feel at all secure. As for being a waste of money the difference in feel and balance and the adjustability mid corner is worth every cent. I would much rather be able to go round corners fast than be quick down the 1/4.

well, im basing all my theories on personal experience

increased hardness = more lateral slip

more lateral slip = need for bigger tyres

bigger tyres = less lateral slip

do all these things, and your car handles like a go cart :D

got a book at home where i read this, some famous race car driver who got done drink driving... ill have a look when i get home :D

Becareful what you decide from these posts. Different magna's have different sway bars, so what works for a Ralliart won't work for an exec.

In short, stiffen up the front and u'll promote understeer, stiffen up the back you'll promote oversteer. A rear sway bar would probably be worth it. But like turbo_charade said, if you upset the balance of the car, you'll find yourself in the gutter. And with a rear bar you'll more than likely be introduced to our friend 'lift-off-oversteer' as well, particularly in the wet.

Becareful what you decide from these posts. Different magna's have different sway bars, so what works for a Ralliart won't work for an exec.
fair call, but at the same time all magna's have the same chassis

if you do some, but not all, you will have this problem

i did my setup in a few stages...

first up i put a strut brace on, noticed HEAPS of difference, heaps tighter, better cornering etc (was like this for a few months, remembering the ralliarts have koni reds as standard)

then came the big upgrade, full coilover suspension, and the rear sway went in at the same time, and that waas +1,000,000 in goodness :D

then, about a fortnight later i got my front sway and antilift kit put in, and brought the whole setup to life, couldnt understand how i drove it like it was...

and about a fortnight ago, i put my bigger wheels on, and now, the car is infallable in cornering/ handling/ grip/ stopping

it seriously is like a 1600kg go cart... awesome

and i also upgraded the front pads to the greenstuffs aswell, so now it corners quick and stops quick...

now for some more power :doubt:

seiryu: he just wants a comfortable well handling car, for road use.

for body roll, yes the bars do help mildly. even with my standard sloppy springs the car still sits pretty flat.

but!!

body roll wont affect the grip levels until your pulling big g's in a corner

you will notice the lack of roll yes, buy your a better man than me if you believe its made your suburb driving faster.

i dropped a measily one tenth of a second over 50 seconds once i put in HUGE bars.

its the same with strut braces.

for body roll, yes the bars do help mildly. even with my standard sloppy springs the car still sits pretty flat.

Correct me if im wrong but wouldnt your car weigh half what a magna would??? if so wouldnt this be the reason why you have minimal body roll with sloppy springs...

less weight yes, similarly softer springs too mate.

same general principal.

i dropped a measily one tenth of a second over 50 seconds once i put in HUGE bars.


Magna's are a completely different car to yours (in form and suspension setup) and therefore your suspension experience in the charade cannot be compared.

around QR racetrack (little over a minute per lap) mine gained 2.5 seconds, changing from the standard vr-x rear bar (18mm) to the whiteline adjustable set to medium. Last weekend we went back and another amc member also gained about 2.5secs per lap by changing the rear swaybar from soft to medium.

how many times had you raced there before the bars were installed?

i had hit a brick wall with times, consitantly running mid 49's, way back when i started my times consitantly dropped due to confidence and picking better lines and markers.

that, and at the same time little cars are proven to be easier to throw around :)

heh, it takes some phat skills to drive the magna like a mirage lol

(just a shiit load quicker lol)

how many times had you raced there before the bars were installed?

i had hit a brick wall with times, consitantly running mid 49's, way back when i started my times consitantly dropped due to confidence and picking better lines and markers.

a few sessions, but i couldn't get past high 1:10's. with the swaybar on it went straight to low 1:08's - now being able to lift of oversteer.

could you oversteer before putting your swaybars on?

From factory the magna (even with the oem 18mm rear bar) won't do this, no matter how much it's provoked... plough understeer all the way, which i'll agree with you is a lot safer on unpredictable public roads.

the charade is a twitchy car at speed corners, but you get that with a light car with an on/off power delivery. it has spun around a few times on me without the bars, but it wasn't setup with any from factory.

out of interest, take out one of the connecting rods next time you go and do a few laps, see if it was just experience and more track time making you faster, i reckon it wasn't all swaybars.

you would know that even when you thought you were pushing the car on roads, that once you get it to a track you realise you were barely moving through corners, thus making actual use of the extra suspension bits, where as on the road you could have just turned in a little quicker or controlled throttle a little better etc etc to over come the tiny difference.. thats the point im trying to make.

Ok, but why drive around a problem when it can be fixed? Especially when the fix wont ruin the ride and cost big $$$.

okay, why have a turbo if you never drive above 50% throttle.

jowet: which track were you on at QR? i take it its not the full one, otherwise your a few seconds faster than the V8 super taxi's :D

jowet: which track were you on at QR? i take it its not the full one, otherwise your a few seconds faster than the V8 super taxi's :D

nope, just the sprint track :)

can someone give me more details on anti-lift kit

what it does and worth the buy???

stops the car from lifting up, effectivly keeping more weight over the front wheels therefore more traction

use it in combination with a front strut & sway and your on a winnner :)

a few sessions, but i couldn't get past high 1:10's. with the swaybar on it went straight to low 1:08's - now being able to lift of oversteer.

could you oversteer before putting your swaybars on?

From factory the magna (even with the oem 18mm rear bar) won't do this, no matter how much it's provoked... plough understeer all the way, which i'll agree with you is a lot safer on unpredictable public roads.

I can gat my TR to lift off oversteer no worries, stock.
mind you, my mates are too scared to get in my car on a twisty road. I cant understand why....

I can gat my TR to lift off oversteer no worries, stock.
mind you, my mates are too scared to get in my car on a twisty road. I cant understand why....

TRs must be a bit more prone to it. I go around a certain off camber corner every day. With my TR in the wet, lifting off would cause the back end to slide out. Touching the brake for the next corner would mean certain sidewaysness, once ending up at 90 degrees to straight. And this is only at 30-40km/h (not pushing, driving cautiously in the wet).

The KH is totally different, its a lot more neutral and is only a slight hint of the back coming out when tapping the brake.

Every car is different.....