Hey I have an auto TH magna done about 60,000....and dont know if its just that ive never noticed it...but when i say reverse out of a driveway and into drive once the car is stopped moving in the other direction, i accelerate but it takes about 1 second for the car to start moving (meanwhile it just revs up)...Also when moving from Reverse to Drive and vice versa...there is a slight clunk? Is this all normal and i have just never noticed it?

Doing burnouts you may have damaged the driving gear, other than that check oil etc.

Get your gbox checked by an auto trans specialist. Should do it every 50000kms. I suspect its your
diff thats stuffed.

Front Wheel Drive magnas... known for engine mount issues... check them as when direction changes or gear shifts load on engine changes direction...

See how that goes!

The clunk is probably normal....I am pretty sure...its not hard at all...When it engages into reverse from drive...surely theres some kind of jolt as it moves from standstill?

My engine mounts where replaced not long ago...

The thing that worrys me more is the fact that when i go from being in Reverse after reversing out of somwhere....and then put it into drive...and accellerate it takes about 2 seconds for it to 'engage' and start moving? Im sure this didnt happen before...

The clunk is probably normal....I am pretty sure...its not hard at all...When it engages into reverse from drive...surely theres some kind of jolt as it moves from standstill?

My engine mounts where replaced not long ago...

The thing that worrys me more is the fact that when i go from being in Reverse after reversing out of somwhere....and then put it into drive...and accellerate it takes about 2 seconds for it to 'engage' and start moving? Im sure this didnt happen before...

In most autos you have to wait a little while before it clicks into gear, most commodore autos for example will take up to 5secs to engage a gear, and then give you whiplash. :bowrofl: if it bothers you that much, just get a service done on the auto, wont cost much. only around $150

Same noise i had and the localmitsu dealer said na its fine they do that around 75000 kays well after spending 750 for the 100000 kay service BANG the gearbox blows the diff the sun wheel broke and punched a hole in it. Doing burnouts are not good fora magna due to a system that works like a LSD to put power to both wheels but one wheel will spin but both will spin on loose surface. $3000 later i had a reco so it sounds like a spat sun wheel which is ready to let loose.

Same noise i had and the localmitsu dealer said na its fine they do that around 75000 kays well after spending 750 for the 100000 kay service BANG the gearbox blows the diff the sun wheel broke and punched a hole in it. Doing burnouts are not good fora magna due to a system that works like a LSD to put power to both wheels but one wheel will spin but both will spin on loose surface. $3000 later i had a reco so it sounds like a spat sun wheel which is ready to let loose.

I might just take it down when I have the chance and get it checked out...Im sure its always been there but who knows...

yeah mine was from their from 55000 kays

I have come to the conclusion that this happens only until the car warms up, and then its fine....

Ok...well now the story continues....I will paste an explanation of what problems I am experiencing I gave to someone about it:


i will start the car and go to accelrate after selecting first gear...the car will have to reach like 1.5 - 2 k rpm before it will actually engage with a large clunk and the revs must be picked up otherwise it will sorta bunnyhop (ITS AN AUTO)..Its been doing this all day and i happened to be in sydney...so i was stuck driving it around...on the way back it slipped into neutral (not a problem) but i put it back into drive....and then CLUNK and the netural light starts flashing (the aut transsmission fluid overheated warning).

now i manage to get going again...and this warning light doesnt come on all the way down the highway. meaning that 4th gear is the only thing it likes...i slow down from 100.....to turn corner and straight away (obviously the auto changed into 3rd.....and then the warning light comes on again).

If its slipped into neutral and you engage drive, while the revs are up, you're going to damage your drivetrain. I'd say you've damaged your drive shaft or even the diff.

If its slipped into neutral and you engage drive, while the revs are up, you're going to damage your drivetrain. I'd say you've damaged your drive shaft or even the diff.

The revs were hardly up.I was doing what....110 on the freeway...I moved my arm to reach something and knocked it into neutral...it was in cruise control...and then put it back into drive....then it clunked and **** itself and started the Neutral Flashing Light (once a second)....so I dunno...How much would I be up for to get that fixed (The diff that is with a price inc and exc labour) How hard is it to fix that myself if it is?

I took it for a drive before....I start the car put it in drive and have to rev to 2000 for it to engage, then shift into 2nd it shifts then revs up a bit and then 3rd is also same.......I can only drive it for about 5 mins b4 the Neutral Flashing Light comes on.....

I am so going to cry my eyes out if i need a new box....

Try not to press the brake in when you first start the car, I notice this is when it clunks from park to drive.

I dont put my foot on the break and it goes fine, no clunks.

Sounds like it could be overheating, checked transmission oil?
Did the car shudder when you put it back into D at 110 clicks? it shouldn't do this, but it may have defaulted to 1st or 2nd, which is bad for the car.

Well I took it down to the Transmissions place.....he didnt take the box apart yet, but said its something inside the box. He suspects that some sort of drum is cracked whatever that is......I have no idea what kind of money im up for here :redface: :shock:

how often does the light flash on the N symbol...once per second???or...according to mitsubishi workshop manual, (for TH/j at least)it says if flashing once every second it could be one of the following: input shaft speed sensor, output shaft speed sensor,each solenoid vale or gear incorrect ratio...whatever that means. you should take to somewhere (like a dealer) that can read the error code put out by the atm ecu. if it two flashes per second it means the transmission fluid is too hot, which after changing it shouldnt affect you.

how often does the light flash on the N symbol...once per second???or...according to mitsubishi workshop manual, (for TH/j at least)it says if flashing once every second it could be one of the following: input shaft speed sensor, output shaft speed sensor,each solenoid vale or gear incorrect ratio...whatever that means. you should take to somewhere (like a dealer) that can read the error code put out by the atm ecu. if it two flashes per second it means the transmission fluid is too hot, which after changing it shouldnt affect you.

Very true...well the transmissions place looked at it and he said it was something inside the box...Surely he would know to check this stuff with his computer thingy before he ripped the whole thing apart?

Ok well he looked at it ands its the torque converter.....hmmmm he says $300 for that part...How much would do you guys think the labour on top of that would be?

Hmm.....$1600 ****ING DOLLARS! to FIX! This can't be reasonable can it?

There is apparently $800 worth of labour (7 hours to take box out, strip down find out whats wrong and put it back together)...

He replaced filter ($65) and ATF ($85). Also getting a new torque converter $360....$160 for some seals and gaskets...$1617 WITH GST!!!! Surely this cannot be reasonable?

Ok well he looked at it ands its the torque converter.....hmmmm he says $300 for that part...How much would do you guys think the labour on top of that would be?

Id be asking how did he come to that decision...i am no expert but looking thru the factory repair manual for a TH, the signs of a torque converter on the blink is 1. cant start in N or P, 2. stalls when put into D or R on idle, or 3. vibration occurs at constant speed or when accelerating in top gear....and these are only possibilties of being a torque converter problems. i'd get a second opinion and keep the 'faulty unit'. if you do go ahead.
with regards to your original post, a clunking when putting into D or R is more noticable when cold because your revs are higher warming up the engine. up to two seconds to change is considered normal.
good luck

Very true...well the transmissions place looked at it and he said it was something inside the box...Surely he would know to check this stuff with his computer thingy before he ripped the whole thing apart?

P.S i'd ask him also what error code numbers he came up with to see if he did check it with such tool if in possession of one.

Id be asking how did he come to that decision...i am no expert but looking thru the factory repair manual for a TH, the signs of a torque converter on the blink is 1. cant start in N or P, 2. stalls when put into D or R on idle, or 3. vibration occurs at constant speed or when accelerating in top gear....and these are only possibilties of being a torque converter problems. i'd get a second opinion and keep the 'faulty unit'. if you do go ahead.
with regards to your original post, a clunking when putting into D or R is more noticable when cold because your revs are higher warming up the engine. up to two seconds to change is considered normal.
good luck


Hmmm thats true.....well if it isn't fixed he's doing watever is required to get it done....coz he is offereing 6 months warranty on his job...