yeh as the title says. well i washed my mums 88 integras engine with degreaser and the car is running SOOOOOOOO BADDD and noisey as. mus pissed ATM. is it the fact that i could of got water on any vital parts??? also washed underneath. i let the car stand for like 20-30 before i started to spray degreaser. then washed it off with a hose.?? kinda need help with this issue. i have left the car in the sun for now and wat to see if the water evaporates. im pretty :angry: at myself :angry:

any help appreciated

get some WD40
and wipe and spray in dizzy.sparkplugs and sensors
should run fine after that

get some WD40
and wipe and spray in dizzy.sparkplugs and sensors
should run fine after that

any other alternatives

Hello cammerra,

From the 1000 already answered question: http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/

"Has anybody ever washed the engine on a [DSM]?
How do you wash the engine on a [DSM]?
What parts do I need to cover when washing the engine bay?
I washed the engine on my [DSM], and now it won't run! What's wrong? Is there a fix?
My [DSM] won't run! I washed the engine, and it started fine then! What's wrong? Is there a fix?
Brian Hood washes his engine all the time. See his description of how to do it here.

Aside from the cam/crankshaft angle sensor problem (described below), the process is simple: Spray everything with a cleaner, scrub as desired, and wash off. (Foaming cleaners might stick to parts and odd-to-reach places better.) Some people dry with compressed air or towels. For rubber and plastic parts, Armor All and similar products can be applied; for metal, Nevr-Dull or Mothers Metal Polish; and so forth. Tools like scrub brushes, Scotch pads, and the like can all be used.

With one exception, electrical components under the hood can be washed. Note that there are one or two that might suffer if blasted hard with a high-pressure stream of water. For this reason, most people recommend a simple garden hose, although a pressure washer can certainly be used if a little care is taken.

There is one important caveat to the advice above. Every year a few owners have problems immediately or shortly after washing their engine. All have damaged the camshaft angle sensor on the car. Without this sensor, the ECU cannot tell what position the crankshaft is in, and the engine cannot run. Some years have a crankshaft angle sensor instead; the effect is the same.

This makes the cam/crankshaft angle sensor the only real "must cover" part on the engine. A medium Ziploc bag or Saran Wrap is fine as long as the main body of the sensor stays dry.

The sensor in question is located next to the throttle body on top of the engine. It is round, about four inches in diameter, an inch thick, and grey in color. On turbo models, it is located immediately to the left of the words "16 Valve" on the top of the engine (see this picture for location).

If the sensor is covered the engine will probably start up fine right after washing. However, driving the car with a wet engine will create steam, which will get inside the crankshaft angle sensor housing. Once the car is shut off, the steam condenses into water, which will still wreck the sensor - even if it was covered prior to washing. Thus, some unlucky owners will find the car starts fine after cleaning, only to be "dead" the next morning.

So, to prevent crank angle sensor damage, therefore, there are TWO steps:

cover the crankshaft sensor
and:

wait until the engine is mostly dry before driving, or
drive it for a while and then raise the hood to allow the steam to escape, or
drive it long enough to get the engine completely dry.
Some owners are able to 'revive' their sensors, as Brian Powell was able to do here, but most are dead. Some Digesters have investigated if they can be repaired, but so far nobody has been able to do so. So don't get into a situation where you need to replace it.

Some people cover other parts as well. Some cover the spark plug wire wells because the wells can collect water and possibly lead to misfiring if the spark plug wire boots are not in perfect condition. (The DSM valve cover will naturally collect quite a bit of water.) However, if the plugs wires are correctly seated, they generally won't allow water in to the plug wells. Compressed air, towels or a shop vac can remove water that collects on the top of the engine.

A few people cover the alternator. This can be inconvenient since the alternator is big, and kind of far down in the engine bay. Some people just avoid spraying it directly with water. Either way seems to work. Theoretically there might be some possibility that wetting the alternator might hasten alternator failure, but nobody has reported any.

Others cover the air filter. Most people who do so are probably worried about damage to the filter itself, as they are running "open" air filters without a protective can or cover. Cleaners and solvents can damage the filter, as well as high-pressure streams of water. For cars with air cans covering the opening is usually unimportant since there is no way for enough water to get into the air intake to do any damage. Just avoid spraying cleaners or high-pressure water directly on the filter.

Cleaners of choice include Simple Green, Gunk Engine Degreaser, and similar products. Most people have no problems with the product of their choice, while others consider certain cleaners too harsh to be used on a regular basis. Still, for occasional cleanings, engine-specific commercial products seem to work fine for most people."

Now thats an answer. lol :clap:

if you want to degrease your motors try using dish washing detergent works well not as harsh as some degreasers

well i found out i have 2 small cracks in the disributor cap and 1 cylinder wasnt firing so changed all sparkies and distributor cap now runs sweet thanks for help...

i find that my magna runs better when its all oily and dirty etc :gtfo:

i think letting it dry in the sun is a nice idea

anyway we have water restrictions and we cant waste the water like that

its an engine, its bound to be oily again in a week.