I finally got my wallet out and the following mods have been completed.

RPW race style extractors
RPW stage 1 cams with cam timing gears
RPW inlet manifold
Greddy computer

I already had a RPW hi flowed throttle body and Lukey muffler.
It was dyno tuned on a chassis (hub) dyno with premium fuel and I got it back last night.
204 HP at wheels, equals 153 KW
Midrange torque up to 5000rpm is much stronger and 5000 to 6000rpm and beyond still pulls hard instead of dying in the arse as before.
Expensive? yes, but I'm still pleased with the results. :D :D :D :D

good work:D


best way to give weight to the 153 kw's atws is if u know what it was putting out prioir to mods so we can get a real gauge of how much quicker this beast is over a standard un modified magna, as every dyno is diferent

All up what did it cost you if you don't mind me asking?

All up what did it cost you if you don't mind me asking?Ill go with a rough estimate.

Extractors 800 - 1k
Cams 1.2k
Greddy + tune 1.2k
Inlet manifold.. no clue.

Ill go with a rough estimate.

Extractors 800 - 1k
Cams 1.2k
Greddy + tune 1.2k
Inlet manifold.. no clue.

Inlet manifold 900?
t/b 200
lukey 200
install 500+
I wonder did you go cam gears? uprated valve springs?

So about 5k all up?

So there was no before dyno?

RPW Race Extractors = $600
RPW stage 1 cams with cam timing gears = $ unsure
RPW inlet manifold = $1000
Greddy computer = $1200 with tune (Estimating)
RPW hi flowed throttle body = $180
Lukey muffler = $160

Total = $3140 without price of cams.

It was about 5K including all parts, labour and tuning (does not include T/B and muffler - done about a year ago). You should contact RPW for specifics, though Dave is now on hols for a couple of weeks. There was also a MOGWA discount which helped keep the price down a little.
Retained original valve springs. Sorry no before figures.

Sorry no before figures.This is of concern mate (well it would be for me). I dont know about you, but how do you judge whether your 5k was 'well spent' if you only gained a couple of KW's/torque...

I dont know 1 decent performance shop that wouldnt produce a before and after dyno, heck even multiple readouts during the tuning..

Maybe im jumping the gun and Dave has a sheet or 2 back at his shop.


Anyhow, all that counts is that youre happy.. So top stuff!

The dyno tuning place is a few kilometers away from the RPW workshop and would have involved driving the vehicle over there for any measurements and back again - all adding to the time/money cost.
Yes I would have liked some before figures, but anyway I'm sure there are many dyno figures around for stock and modified Magnas to compare with. The engine is factory rated at 155 KW flywheel. Now I've got that at the wheels and we all are aware that there is a difference between advertised power and what you actually get at the wheels when on a dyno.

Money in the bank: Interest less tax
Money invested: Comfortable feeling
Driving your modded Magna and telling your mates about it: Priceless!

The dyno tuning place is a few kilometers away from the RPW workshop and would have involved driving the vehicle over there for any measurements and back again - all adding to the time/money cost.
Yes I would have liked some before figures, but anyway I'm sure there are many dyno figures around for stock and modified Magnas to compare with. The engine is factory rated at 155 KW flywheel. Now I've got that at the wheels and we all are aware that there is a difference between advertised power and what you actually get at the wheels when on a dyno.

Money in the bank: Interest less tax
Money invested: Comfortable feeling
Driving your modded Magna and telling your mates about it: Priceless!

Nice outcome (I got the impression Dave had a chasis dyno at RPW :confused: ). Which version of the RPW inlet manifold did you get?? internal ram tubes or not?

It would be very interesting to have seen output before and after the cams...... cause thats about the only mod you have that I don't.

good work Leo. if only i had 5k.


jus a quick question though would it be better to save another 2k and get turbo???

jus a quick question though would it be better to save another 2k and get turbo???
Some people want to stay NA.

Neat result Leo.

BB, I didn't think Dave had a dyno at all and their usual duno mob uses a hub dyno.

Some people want to stay NA.

Neat result Leo.

BB, I didn't think Dave had a dyno at all and their usual duno mob uses a hub dyno.


ye i understand sum ppl wanna stay NA but i was kinda askin 4myself in wats better to go for turbo or NA but thats goin off Leo's thread so will start up my own. sorry for goin off topic LEO :D

Inlet manifold has the internal ram tubes.
Yes I wanted to stay N/A and for the car to look as normal as possible under the bonnet. That way I dont want any issues with insurance or the police. My goal is a "normal" car that is quite fast. Once you go turbo you are in a class with the big boys and have to compete against them. To some of these guys, spending 5K$ would be a tiny amount.
Also my Magna still drives and acts like a standard vehicle when driven sedately.
Thanks for the interest. Its something I've wanted to do for a long time, but if the Mrs finds out the total cost I'll be dead meat! :shock: :cool: :cool:

lol burn or hide the recipts and make sure she dosnt se the credit card statment lol

Nice outcome (I got the impression Dave had a chasis dyno at RPW :confused: ). Which version of the RPW inlet manifold did you get?? internal ram tubes or not?

It would be very interesting to have seen output before and after the cams...... cause thats about the only mod you have that I don't.

Nah to my knowledge dave uses speedworks hub dyno, as he likes removing the tyre factor from the dynos.

Matthius

Nice results there - how does it drive. Yes I am in South Australia but had some spare time up my sleeve.

Also for everyones knowledge, this vehicle is still using the stock air cleaner setup, heck stil a stock mitsubishi cardboard filter as well if I recall or maybe a K&N. The exhaust is teh stock exhaust, stock cat converter only a rear muffler change only. So its a good representation of what can be done. If I recall correctly, oen other car we did with virtually the same mods, minus camshafts, manuel magna with full exhaust, manifold and cold air kit did on the same dyno around 220hp.

Yes we did do camshaft gears and dialled teh camshafts in around 6 degrees retarded and they were only stage 1 profiles, very mild.

More importantly - how is it driving? Nice and smooth. Idle speed?

As for te dyno, we looked at buying our own but when we have one down the road less than 10 minutes away we can use anytime for our own dyno tuning or hire the speedworks tuners, makes more sense to do that instead.

I prefer the hub dyno, not for the horsepower readings but for the accuracy of tuning, especially a fwd vehicle. WIthotu any tyres, the accuracy of a mechanical hub setup is far superior when you can do a 1 degree ignition change and see a direct result of it, unlike a roller dyno which needs larger variations to be able to show up no the dyno graph. THis is just something that you could never fully understand until you have been there tuning a car on both types of dynos and see teh difference in the level of tuning you can do.

EIther way glad to hear the cars going well - look forward to hearing more from you.

It depends on what your comprehensive insurance per annum is gunna cost - might cost most people on AMC and MOGWA about the same per year as the turbo install :doubt:

Nah to my knowledge dave uses speedworks hub dyno, as he likes removing the tyre factor from the dynos.

MatthiusBest way to do it. No fudging output with tyre pressure etc. It's not a shootout. No prize for taking your motor home in a box.

As for te dyno, we looked at buying our own but when we have one down the road less than 10 minutes away we can use anytime for our own dyno tuning
So wheres the before printout?

Im very suprised that a before figure hasnt been shown, especially for the changes in torque..

any plans of going down the quarter to see what time u pull... i think we would all be very interested :D


personally with the dyno graphs i try to get a dyno at the same place every mod or 2 so i can document gain out of certain mods etc, it may cost a lil more but gives me peace of mind as there r sooo many theories on this forum as to what does what and how

omg get a full zorst and pod+cai ! , it will soound so good then .

not very expensive either, i think a full zorst system can be done for $300 of less, (probably alot lower since you have a lukey muffler already), and an airfilter (pod+cai, or even just a k&n panel) will make your induction sound great too !

good work on the mods so far and im glad to see your really impressed with the results !


later :cool:

Start and idle are fine. There is even a slight throb from the cams and extractors, but the cams themselves are silent - no ticking. 1000 to 1500 rpm is possibly not quite so smooth as before but modified cams can have that effect. No other problems, it drives just fine on the roads and freeway.
Yes there are still gains to be had from a larger exhaust and CAI, these will come eventually. Dave did talk me into a K+N panel filter.
Fuel consumption seems about the same, possibly slightly better - too early to tell for sure.
Cheers all.

Did you upgrade the valve springs? Or just use the stock ones?

stock valve sprigns were used as this was only a stage 1 camshaft.

And we didn't put it on the dyno before hand because the work was done over two stages and whilst the hub dyno is great for tuning, its a pain for power runs cause it takes around 15 minutes to bolt a car up.

thats a heap of power, that will definatly slam you down the quater mile with a very low 14 second pass. well done-good investment :thumbsup:

Is it just me or does that dyno graph show that maximum torque has gone down from stock?
I realise that most dynos are done ATW, but it says on the right torque at the fly, which stock is 316nm isn't it?
Or am i totally missing something here?

The dyno printout for first timers can be misleading. If you look at it closely you will see correction factor is set to Zero. THis means that it is reading at the wheels / hubs. If it was simulating at hte engine they woudl put something like a 15 or 20% correction factor to estimate what the engine specs are. Being a hub dyno it is the closest you can get to an engine dyno due to no tyre / friction losses reduced to min levels.

The dyno printout for first timers can be misleading. If you look at it closely you will see correction factor is set to Zero. THis means that it is reading at the wheels / hubs. If it was simulating at hte engine they woudl put something like a 15 or 20% correction factor to estimate what the engine specs are. Being a hub dyno it is the closest you can get to an engine dyno due to no tyre / friction losses reduced to min levels.
Oh ok, so what you're saying is, even though on the side of the graph it states at the fly, you've rigged it to measure at the wheels?

No its more of a case (And I don't know why the designers of the program did this) is that it reads by default at the hubs and displays it at the hubs. But it gives the ability to alter it to change it to read at the flywheel. If you look on the RH side menu you will see that it has two power and torque figures - one at the flywheel and one at the hubs. You will see they are the exact same figures indicating there is no correction factor applied to approximate engine hp

How does that torque curve translate into acceleration feel/drivability. I only ask because it looks (to the novice) like there are two big flat spots at ~2000 and 3000 rpm.

Is this noticable or not? If it is what scope do you have with the Greddy to smooth this out or would you need a cam reprofile?

Anyway good on ya. It's about time the magna engine got the readys it should have.

Follow the blue line - no dips or dives in that one. The torque curve is also nice and fairly flat - showing torque a lot higher, a lot earlier with a fairly flat range on it - this setup makes the auto models pull as hard as a manuel model.

Follow the blue line - no dips or dives in that one. The torque curve is also nice and fairly flat - showing torque a lot higher, a lot earlier with a fairly flat range on it - this setup makes the auto models pull as hard as a manuel model.
I'll beleive that when i see it (1/4 mile times that is) :P

5grand wasted, bolt on a supercharger :p
but the fiqures are impressive, it would be interesting to find the cost price on those mods, i imagine around 2k

204 FWHP is not quite accurate - that is 204 hp at the hubs.

My magna put out 193.6 hp on that same dyno, and on a roller dyno just a week or so later it only put out 157FWHP??

I managed 193.6 hub hp with Greddy Piggy back / 70mm T/B / Pod / Extractors / Muffler / Fuel Reg - had I have thrown on a full exhaust / manifold / cams - it probalby would have seen a very nice number. Oh yeah - i had the 147kw 3.5L in my TH

But at what cost?? I just got sick of big dollars for little gains in the magna - but good stuff!! thats a nice amount of power for the magna.

So hub HP is the same as Brake HP? Meaning no drive train loss. So given the drive train loss for a manual of approximately 17%, the figure is more like 170HP ATW.

So hub HP is the same as Brake HP? Meaning no drive train loss. So given the drive train loss for a manual of approximately 17%, the figure is more like 170HP ATW.
If brake HP is at the engine then no as the hubs is still downstream of the transmission. Other cars have shown a 10 - 15 percent difference going from the hub dyno to a chasis dyno. Just note that it doesn't mean a hub dyno isn't less accurate than a chasis dyno, by all reports it is more so. You need to remember that a dyno, regardless of design, is a tuning tool.

You need to remember that a dyno, regardless of design, is a tuning tool.

Bingo - As Tim-E is always saying, if you want to know how much horsepower your car is producing go drag it and have a look at your terminal speed.

Matthius

Bingo - As Tim-E is always saying, if you want to know how much horsepower your car is producing go drag it and have a look at your terminal speed.
Yup, that's the funny thing. The quarter mile race has changed subtly to the time being the important thing. I guess when you're racing you're after the fastest time. Not quite the original measure of power.