Hey folks

After some advice for next years SQ season.

What would be involved in me shifting my pedals to the left to accomodate a 9" sub into both kick panels of my car. Its an auto 98 TF. I plan on venting the sub into the A pillar if this takes off. The passenger side will be fairly easy as there is heaps of room. But the accelerator pedal is too close to the right to get any decent angle on the sub driver.

I already have the subs (Morel Elate 9) They will be going into the doors if I cant get them into the kicks, but I would prefer to get them into the kicks if possible.

To mount them I will be taking out the stock kick panel cover and fibreglassing into the kickpanel corner.

So after any ideas, is it safe, is it legal, is it feasible? Anyone had to do anything like this before?
Would only need a couple of inches to the left. (just like me :p)

Thanks in advance

Peace

Tim

hahaha, think you're taking it a little too far now timmy?

Ideas for moving pedals? I think its illegal to modify pedals, even them ricey clip-on pedal covers are technically illegal.

You could angle grind off the existing steel rods, and reweld them to whatever position you like. Its definately illegal, and you'd probably get annoyed when you drive, especially having to move your legs towards the left...uncomfortable, but u might get used to it later one...

I can't really answer most of the questions you asked by I can tell you it'd be somewhat easy.

This is how I'd do it..

black-lines = what is already on your car atm
red-lines = what needs to be added (metal poles)
blue bars = pedals

i wouldnt do it timbo....

can you imagine the fun you'd have when you go for an emergency brake......... and your pedal snaps off? :redface:

Damn you rational thinkers...

Any way I can get it engineered?

Any way I can get it engineered?

Nearly anything can be engineered, have fun trying to find someone willing to do it though.

hahaha, think you're taking it a little too far now timmy?
Too far is when I go through the firewall in an AP enclosure... Give it time... Give it time...

Ok safety would be number one priority then audio.

Maybe I could leave the brake pedal untouched and relocate the accelerator closer??

dont know about legalities of this... but a manual brake pedal is usually smaller than an automatic one... this would give you room to put the accelerator closer to the brake...

wouldn't want it too close though...


as for moving the accelerator... it'll be a matter of taking off your accelerator pedal (like the whole mounting), marking/drilling new holes in your firewall... tap the threads (tap with thread that matches the botls you already got) and bolting it back on to your new holes... another thing to consider is how long the accelerator cable is... may need to be remade to be a little longer.

i'm not sure about the particulars of a 3rd gen, i base all this off my 1st gen.

Should have the accelerator 1cm away from the brake, that way you can roll your foot off the brake to the accelerator at the lights, saves you using two feet for a bit of wheel spin.

Try finding a metal engineering shop, or a tool maker. Or if you know any boiler makers, take you standard accelerator and brake peddel to them. Then get them to make new ones based on these, but shifted left by whatever measurment you tell the.

By fabricating new peddels you leave ou tthe risk of welding extentions on to the standard parts.

By fabricating new peddels you leave ou tthe risk of welding extentions on to the standard parts.

I don't understand the risk in welding, it's more often then ever very stable when done properly.

You want to fart around with your pedals just for car audio? :nuts: :bowrofl: :fruitcake

Yeah you're starting to lose it now s_tim_ulate. Ok, you won CAASQ Victoria Amateur class, but now you're just getting greedy :D j/ks mate :)

ey tim dun know nething bout wat u wanna do but think it through and spend that bit extra to make sure its all safe. plus ur car sounds wicked as it is already but cant wait to hear when the woofers are in. i now a boiler in dande but dun have the number wit me coz im at work but will post it up when i get home.

Ash

hahaha, think you're taking it a little too far now timmy?

Ideas for moving pedals? I think its illegal to modify pedals, even them ricey clip-on pedal covers are technically illegal.

You could angle grind off the existing steel rods, and reweld them to whatever position you like. Its definately illegal, and you'd probably get annoyed when you drive, especially having to move your legs towards the left...uncomfortable, but u might get used to it later one...


Yeah you'd be hard pressed to get it permitted, they dont like pedal mods much.

Matthius

dont know about legalities of this... but a manual brake pedal is usually smaller than an automatic one... this would give you room to put the accelerator closer to the brake...

wouldn't want it too close though...


as for moving the accelerator... it'll be a matter of taking off your accelerator pedal (like the whole mounting), marking/drilling new holes in your firewall... tap the threads (tap with thread that matches the botls you already got) and bolting it back on to your new holes... another thing to consider is how long the accelerator cable is... may need to be remade to be a little longer.

i'm not sure about the particulars of a 3rd gen, i base all this off my 1st gen.


Tim, the pedals in a manual 3rd gen are definitely smaller. Take a look at one, it may just serve your purpose.

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Was having a look today and if the size of the brake pedal is reduced, it means my foot can sit further left on the accelerator. = more room for the speaker

Too far is when I go through the firewall in an AP enclosure... Give it time... Give it time...LOL.. I'm waiting for:

Guys.. can I lower my engine at all? I want to cut some holes in my bonnet and mount a massive sub under there.. ;)

:badgrin:

Well installed the Elate 9's into stock locations in the end, BEHIND STOCK TRIMS :redface:

Yesterday I began fibreglassing into the passenger kick panel, today I removed the plastic behind the stock kick panel so there is just carpet there which has given me a few extra inches into the kicks. been listening today with the tweets deep in the kicks and adds a bit more depth to the soundstage.

http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/10/angledbafflefulldoor9ql.jpg
Old baffle with 6"
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5800/elate9testfitinbaffle9bf.jpg
New baffle with 9"
Windows still work (manual not electric too)
Sounds nice, but will need to deaden some more spot rattles

Forgot to take a pic of it on the door but u get the idea...

If I want to keep it stealthy behind the stock trims I cant get any angle out of the driver. But seeing as I will eventually be going three-way, this shouldnt matter too much as the midbass will only play upto 250-300 hz :)

So all in all, not exactly where I wanted it, but this allows me to play them free air instead of in a little sealed a-pillar, so probably for the best

Peace

Tim

that is so freeking cool! so looking at that pic, only 1/2 of the 9" is mounted in the baffle?

i've wanted to add an 8" to my front for a while now, but didn't think there would be enough room! should be easy to mount the 5" somewhere else in the door?

Nah the 9" is mounted flat to the baffle, that pic is on an odd angle...
Will get better pics up when i get a chance

Not all 9's or even 8's will fit. The morels cone is shaped differently to most and only just fit, Im talking millimetres, I had to make a baffle just to find the right spot to place the sub. And it will only fit in on one angle.

yeah that cone does look reasonably flat for a 9"!

where was there issues with getting them to fit properly? no problems with the magnets getting close to windows or anything?

those with electric windows could be easier as the trim is a fair bit further from the woofer than the manual winder's?

i was thinking about something like this:

http://www.focal-fr.com/car/images/im_polyglassv2/21v2.jpg
Focal Polyglass 21 V2

Description: Subwoofer 210 mm
Single Voice Coil: 50 mm
Motor: 120 mm
Max. power handling: 400 W
Nom. poweer handling: 200 W
Sensitivity: (2,83 V/1 m) 85 dB
Frequency response: 40 Hz - 500 Hz
Impedance: 4 ohms
Suitable for closed box applications: 12-20 liters

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1/asylum83/focal.gif
too big?

How about putting the accelorator on the steering wheel like a motorbike ? :D

How about putting the accelorator on the steering wheel like a motorbike ? :D

Someone tried to do that modification in the US I think. I wonder if it ever worked out.

By the way s_tim_ulate, you'll have to let me have a listen once you get it all 100% running. Would love to see you win the CAASQ Amateur class again.

How about putting the accelorator on the steering wheel like a motorbike ? :D

You would have to be able to do somthing like that, they mod all types of cars with hand controls for people with disabilitys and stuff all the time

By the way s_tim_ulate, you'll have to let me have a listen once you get it all 100% running. Would love to see you win the CAASQ Amateur class again.
Yeh no worries, bring some cd's and feel free to have a listen at the next meet you're at. It's never 'finished' but it's always working.

No chance of winning amatuer this year :rant:

I've been bumped up to Pro class :cry:

Should be fun though :cool: And means my car will sound good from both drivers and passenger seats as it is judged from both instead of one.

Asylum - Will double check those specs next time i have the trims off. I think it might not though, as the basket structure is round, where on the morels they have 3 arms, which means the actual width is less if you rotate it.

Peace

Tim

Don't know about the pedals but this may give you some idea...

Having 7 children, I need cars with 9 seats (hence my family car - a Tarago with a Custom front seat in the middle of the two front buckets (all legal)).

...anyway, we did look at the Voyager but it has a handbrake in the middle of the two front buckets. You cannot place a seat over the handbrake so I would have to relocate the handbrake from the middle over to beside the drivers seat and the door.

Well! - that was estimated at approx $2000-$2500 which included engineering, mech. work, compliance testing and certificate.

So we bought the Tarago!

...and thats for a handbrake - imagine the accelerator & brake pedals :shock: