Well, as the title suggests - I managed to round off one of my wheel nuts on Saturday morning while attempting to swap the wheels over on my two TJ's (I ****ing hate tyre places that use rattle guns :rant: ). I managed to get two places to take a look at it on the day - both of them tried, to no avail to get the nut off (1st tried the closest K-mart Tyre and Auto, 2nd was the nearest Specialist mag wheel and tyre place - Ozzy tyres).

One of the problems is that the wheel the nut is attached to (one of my 18's) has very little clearance around the nuts - so little that I can't find a single hex socket with walls thin enough to fit in the holes - hence I can only use 'normal' sockets on it. The clearance issue means it is almost impossible to cut, chisel or otherwise break the nut off without damaging either the stud or the wheel itself.

I've been given the phone number of one of those mobs that specialise in undoing things no body else can (thread-tech they call themselves)..... I'll probably give them a call today - but more than likely they won't be working this week. I pretty much can't comprehend how it will be possible to remove this nut - I'm thinking I'm gonna end up with a drilled out stud.

Anyone had any experience with similar situations? I'm keen to know what my options are - and how much it will end up costing me in the event that the stud has to be drilled out and replaced.

Cheers and a happy new year to all.

Best way to get it off.

Find a cheap socket a few mm smaller, hammer it on (cheap sockets are softer metals generally) and then use your socket spanner to undo.

Youll lose the nut and socket, but it will be off.. (this is a standard thieves way of removing peoples lock nuts from expensive rims)

Another option...

Araldite.. Araldite a socket onto the nut, let it set for 24 hours and then remove with your socket spanner.

Cheers Bain - I'll give both of those suggestions a go. I guess I can't really make it any worse (unless I end up aralditing the nut/socket to the wheel or something :bowrofl: )

3rd option, weld another nut on top of the rounded off one and unbolt them together

4th option, there's a special tool with lots of little teeth that bite into rounded nuts just for this purpose, you could try one of them

5th option, get one of them fancy socket heads with lots of pins in them that recess over the nut for a perfect fit, not sure how much torque these things can take though so that might not work.

(unless I end up araditing the nut/socket to the wheel or something :bowrofl: )ahahha

Just put the araldite on the end of the nut and towards the back end of the socket. (theres a particular araldite you can get to 'weld/glue' metal to metal. - This is probably your cheapest option.

spark plug sockets are thin wall 21mm

Well **** me if that thing isn't stuck on tighter than....... well, I don't know actually - I can't think of anything that would have any reason for being that freaking tight!!!

I tried the 21mm spark plug socket (thanks for that magnus - never occured to me to even look at a spark plug socket), it did the job perfectly..... except for undoing the stupid NUT :rant: .

I pounded the spark plug socket onto the nut with a sledge hammer just to make sure - it was well and truly on there tight. I then proceeded to attempt to undo the nut and after putting what felt like half my body weight (so approx 50Kg of force) on the end of a 3 foot peice of steel pipe I was using as a "breaker bar" - what was left of the corners of the nut began shear off even more. Someone with a physics degree might like to calculate approximately how much torque that is - I'd be interested to know, because I'm surprised the thread on the mitsubishi wheel studs didn't give way when the nut was put on.

I also tried the suggestion of smashing a smaller sized socket onto the nut....... unfortunately I had more trouble than you would think trying to find a cheap and nasty socket in 19mm or 20mm. The two places I thought would sell cheap **** (supercheap auto and bunnings) only had 'trade' quality chrome vanadium sockets which had a lifetime warranty and cost around $5 each :shock: . Needless to say - I tried with no luck to smash one of those over the nut, but gave up after pounding my hand and wheel with the sledge hammer.

I guess there's still the araldite option - but to be honest, after it not comming undone when I tried it with the sparkplug socket....... I don't think this nut will ever budge.

I've got a good mind to take it back to the place that recently did a wheel balance, rotation and alignment :disgusted and go abit crazy on their asses until the agree to fix it at their cost :swearing: :chainsaw: .

hey mate, in my case i didnt get the joy of roundin it off myself, some pricks at a tyre shop did it when my bro had the car and of course, they said it wasnt them. Took it to good year where they had to drill small holes around the nut and get it off that way (I'm presuming pliered off).

Wasnt too good, because in my case the stud was also de-threaded, so that had to be drilled out. End result, 70 bux later new stud and a mag wheel that looks rather bad when its off the car. Where they drilled teh holes it didnt affect the contact of the new nut, but cosmetically it doenst look great. But hey, you dont drive your car with teh wheel off. Hopefully you wont have to drill into your mags!

only way would be is find a nut and weld it to the sezed one and try undo it while its hot good luck

only way would be is find a nut and weld it to the sezed one and try undo it while its hot good luck

I think thats out of the question. I've literally got 5mm of clearance at the very most between the nut and the sides of the hole in the wheel. I think If I tried to weld two nuts together in that space - I'd end up welding them to the wheel at the same time.

In 24 hours I'll try undoing the nut which will be araldited to the inside of a socket. If that doesn't work - I've decided I'll be calling the place that did the wheel balance, rotation and alignment a few months ago and making a time for them to have it removed at their cost....... **** it - I'm not going out of pocket because they let their apprentices **** around with the torque settings on the air wrench.

Best way to get it off.

Find a cheap socket a few mm smaller, hammer it on (cheap sockets are softer metals generally) and then use your socket spanner to undo.

Youll lose the nut and socket, but it will be off.. (this is a standard thieves way of removing peoples lock nuts from expensive rims)
thats quite a good idea ive never thought of that when it happened to me lol

.Wweld a socket or nut to the stud. You cant weld aluminium. I'd use a socket, weld it and then a breaker bar with maby a pole for added oomph. If you can get a mig. When you get it off melt the ****er for being a pain.

You cant weld aluminium.
U sure? I can. I'm making an inlet manifold out of aluminium right now.

Has a Google search show up anything?

ofcourse u can weld alluminium.....well actually there are some grades of alloy-alluminium that cant be welded.....but most can.

weld the inside of the nut to the sezed one

Damn man that sucks. But if the spark plug socket didnt help it, why would gluing or welding a socket to it work ?

I have a mate with an r33 skyline. He was putting on his wheel nuts and instead of using his hands he ****ing jumped on the wheel brace!!! i was lke "WTF ARE YOU DOING!!!" :confused:

I take it this is recessed inside a mag and you cant get a nutbreaker on it. If worst cums 2 worst you may hafta drill out the stud and put a new stud in there (lotsa luck). Have you seen a tyre guy to see what they do in this case. :)

if you cant undo it get some heat involved weld the hole of the nut till it sticks and get it red hot then try undoing it if this dont work it will need drilling and new stud

I would go with what someone previously suggested get a big nut maybe a bit bigger than the wheel nut ,weld around the inside of the hole in the nut.Let it cool then put a suitable socket/box spanner on it and undo it. :)

I've found a few "special" tools designed for removing 'round' nuts on the net, like this:

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/images/large/boltgrip_lg.jpg

- just can't find many trade tool places open this week - and the ones that are don't have anything that will help.

Rang Mitsubishi and a new stud is only $7.45 - and the labour of replacing it doesn't worry me much, because I need to swap the brake rotors over on the two cars anyway. The thing that does worry me is actually being able to drill the entire stud out from the outside of the wheel - they're obviously case hardened steel. Could take quite a while, and quite a few drill bits to drill it out.

In my search for knowledge - I came across this little resource:

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/tooluse.htm

I think I'll take some advise from it and get myself a 5/8 or 3/4 length of pipe for 'impacting' tight nuts in future. Thats probably pretty fundamental for some of you guys - oh well, we learn from our mistakes don't we.

I'll post up tonight wether or not the araldite trick worked - but at this stage I'm doubtful it will have enough 'hold'. Chances are - the guy from this 'tread-tech' place will have access to tools similar to the ones pictured above and will be able to get it undone in about 5 minutes - unfortunately it looks like he's not working this week.

ooooooooooo pretty tool, gotta get me one of them :D :D :drool: :drool:

Where dya get it? :D

ooooooooooo pretty tool, gotta get me one of them :D :D :drool: :drool:

Where dya get it?

Can buy them from amazon.com - they're IRWIN Tools product number 394001. I thought it would be easy to get hold of one because I work for one of the largest hardware brands in Australia.... and IRWIN are one of our suppliers.

Just got one of our Inventory girls to ring Irwin Aus...... and they were like - "thats not one of our product numbers, we've never heard of a "bolt extractor"...." :doh:

Nothings easy is it......

Can buy them from amazon.com - they're IRWIN Tools product number 394001. I thought it would be easy to get hold of one because I work for one of the largest hardware brands in Australia.... and IRWIN are one of our suppliers.

Just got one of our Inventory girls to ring Irwin Aus...... and they were like - "thats not one of our product numbers, we've never heard of a "bolt extractor"...." :doh:

Nothings easy is it......

Probly from the "long wang" chinese branch of the irwin family lol

You could try welding ring spanner on the offending nut and belting the other end with a hammer, this works have used this method, down side, can't use the spanner again Alex

You could try welding ring spanner on the offending nut and belting the other end with a hammer, this works have used this method, down side, can't use the spanner again Alex

Holes to small - nothing but a thin walled sock will fit in the space I've got to work with. Plus the nut is recessed into the hole by at least 5mm.

if you cant use a nut use a spark plug socket and weld the inside of the socket to top of the wheel nut try find a plug socket with a 21 mm hex on the out side

Aye dude pity bout ur wheel I had the same thing happen to mine awhile ago, I rang the place that did it and made them get it off at first they wouldnt do it but after a few words were exchanged they agreed to look at it. Since then I have heard of 5 blokes from the same place with their nuts been done up to tight causing them to strip, just out of curiosity may I ask where was the place that did this??? Oh and good luck mate hope it goes well for you.

Aye dude pity bout ur wheel I had the same thing happen to mine awhile ago, I rang the place that did it and made them get it off at first they wouldnt do it but after a few words were exchanged they agreed to look at it. Since then I have heard of 5 blokes from the same place with their nuts been done up to tight causing them to strip, just out of curiosity may I ask where was the place that did this??? Oh and good luck mate hope it goes well for you.

PM sent re: the place that had the wheelz off last.

replied to your PM - funny bout that mate all at the same place aye "TTF" good luck anyways Black Beard

replied to your PM - funny bout that mate all at the same place aye "TTF" good luck anyways Black Beard

Yeah 'funny'. I know of one other person who's had the same problem with wheels fitted at the same place, you say you know of 5 people it's happened to. They were able to undo the nut on my mates after it was so tight we took the corners off it with a std 21mm socket - don't know how, but they did. Be interesting to see if they can get mine off now - cause it's got no corners left whatsoever!!!

Maybe they've invested in some special tools for just such nut removal jobs - since it seems to be a trademark of their work. :doubt:

U sure? I can. I'm making an inlet manifold out of aluminium right now.

Has a Google search show up anything?


I know you can Tig it, I do it all the time, but I was under the impression you cant weld aluminium with a mig?

EZ Boy's just really good with a stick of super glue.

:bowrofl:

I know you can Tig it, I do it all the time, but I was under the impression you cant weld aluminium with a mig?

You sure can weld aluminium with a mig. Boilies at work only every crack out the tig to do stainless........

Geez mate sounds like they loctited the nut on.
From the sounds of this it's a comon occurrance at this place, you think they'd do something about the pri#k/s doing it, cant be good for buisness.
Can you PM me the name of the place so I don't go there, word of mouth is the best advertising you can get and that doesn't mean slandering the place, just passing on other peoples experiences.

Your lucky you are not on a tight time frame to swap your bits.
Nway hope your nut comes off :shock: :bowrofl:.

I know you can Tig it, I do it all the time, but I was under the impression you cant weld aluminium with a mig?

you can weld aluminium with a MIG except u gotta use Argon for gas instead of Co2. and reverse the polarities.

Sorry to hear, have you tried the bigger hammer idea - if it doesn't work, get a hammer. If that doesn't work get a bigger hammer :shifty: lol

I think the original idea of welding a nut on was you can't weld steel to aluminium

Also you don't have to screw around with the tourque settings on the rattle gun when the air pressure is set too high
Average is 60 psi, proberly set at 90psi, from the air compresser

Sorry to hear, have you tried the bigger hammer idea - if it doesn't work, get a hammer. If that doesn't work get a bigger hammer :shifty: lol

I think the original idea of welding a nut on was you can't weld steel to aluminium

Also you don't have to screw around with the tourque settings on the rattle gun when the air pressure is set too high
Average is 60 psi, proberly set at 90psi, from the air compresser

You might as well ask him to leave his car outside overnight to get someone to try and steal his tyres! Then get him from surprise and saying thanks for undoing them!
:bowrofl:

Geez mate sounds like they loctited the nut on.
From the sounds of this it's a comon occurrance at this place, you think they'd do something about the pri#k/s doing it, cant be good for buisness.
Can you PM me the name of the place so I don't go there, word of mouth is the best advertising you can get and that doesn't mean slandering the place, just passing on other peoples experiences.

Your lucky you are not on a tight time frame to swap your bits.
Nway hope your nut comes off :shock: :bowrofl:.

Hey Phil - PM sent. I don't think it's right to name the place in an open forum, but if any fellow Brisbanites are looking to get wheel/tyre work done on the southside, I'll be more than happy to share my experience with them
lol .

As for a time frame - well I was hoping to have the old car on the market by mid Jan, which is looking less and less likely....... I didn't take into account the fact that so many places would shut over christmas / new year / early Jan. Swapping the wheels over would have been the easiest most effective thing I could have done to improve the look of the new car - so I'm pretty disappointed about the delay I've encountered.

Hey BlackBeard well mate sorry to hear bout that, lol your turn now, well you know my thoughts and opinions on this particular business and mate they wont be getting any of my or any of my mates bussiness ever again. Good luck with getting it off anyways. Can't wait till your new ride is all finished it will hopefully give you the power that you want which I am sure it will as I have been for a ride in it as stock and it pulls harder that ur other Magna.

Cheers

Hey BlackBeard well mate sorry to hear bout that, lol your turn now, well you know my thoughts and opinions on this particular business and mate they wont be getting any of my or any of my mates bussiness ever again. Good luck with getting it off anyways. Can't wait till your new ride is all finished it will hopefully give you the power that you want which I am sure it will as I have been for a ride in it as stock and it pulls harder that ur other Magna.

Cheers

Good to see you on AMC at last dude........ been telling you for months it's a good site - and you don't need a magna to sign up.

Yeah for sure dude I know you have been, the only real thing I need now is a Magna aye

Hi mercury madness welcome to fruit cake central, enjoy. :D

Hey Blackbeard, have you got that nut off yet? :D :D

Hi mercury madness welcome to fruit cake central, enjoy. :D

Hey Blackbeard, have you got that nut off yet? :D :D

Not off yet........ gonna try one more trick tonight (this weekend) and if that doesn't work - it's a job for the professionals.

Not off yet........ gonna try one more trick tonight (this weekend) and if that doesn't work - it's a job for the professionals.so did some place over tighten it ??
if so u shoulda just taken back to them in the first place :P

so did some place over tighten it ??
if so u shoulda just taken back to them in the first place :P

Yeah......... but what's the big idea with places closing down this time of year!!!! :rant:

If I've gotta work - so should everyone!!

GRRRRRRRrrrrrrr................

Well as you can probably tell by my frustrated grrrrring......... the nut is still on there. I can't believe that there exist tools for removing rounded and lock nuts - but no tyre place or workshops in Brisbane I have spoken to actually have access to them. I managed to find a distributor in OZ who sells a special "Lug Nut Remover (http://www.apo.com.au/remover.html)" - gave the bloke a ring, but he won't sell it unless you own a workshop (can be dangerous in the wrong hands :badgrin: ), so I said can you tell me who you've sold one to in Brisbane, he was like "ring graham at metro ford". After eventually finding the right graham at metro ford and telling him what I wanted - he rang me back half an hour later to tell me they couldn't find the set :rant: .

Spoke to the "thread-tech" bloke yesterday, who incidently everyone I've spoken to has told me to ring......... I thought he would have access to such a tool, but nup...... all he wants to do is drill the stud out, and charge me up to $180 to leave me a car I can't drive :doubt: .

Take the cars to get the exhausts swapped over tomorrow, so I'll talk to the bloke at the exhaust place....... you'd think in their line of work - they'd come across some stubborn bolts, so maybe they have some tricks - or perhaps they'll be able to weld another bolt to it without damaging anything.

Either way - when the bolt finally does come off - I'll be keeping it, to remind me never to buy another magna with the intention of swapping all the goodies off one onto the other again!!!

GRRRRRRRrrrrrrr................

Well as you can probably tell by my frustrated grrrrring......... the nut is still on there. I can't believe that there exist tools for removing rounded and lock nuts - but no tyre place or workshops in Brisbane I have spoken to actually have access to them. I managed to find a distributor in OZ who sells a special "Lug Nut Remover (http://www.apo.com.au/remover.html)" - gave the bloke a ring, but he won't sell it unless you own a workshop (can be dangerous in the wrong hands :badgrin: ), so I said can you tell me who you've sold one to in Brisbane, he was like "ring graham at metro ford". After eventually finding the right graham at metro ford and telling him what I wanted - he rang me back half an hour later to tell me they couldn't find the set :rant: .

Spoke to the "thread-tech" bloke yesterday, who incidently everyone I've spoken to has told me to ring......... I thought he would have access to such a tool, but nup...... all he wants to do is drill the stud out, and charge me up to $180 to leave me a car I can't drive :doubt: .

Take the cars to get the exhausts swapped over tomorrow, so I'll talk to the bloke at the exhaust place....... you'd think in their line of work - they'd come across some stubborn bolts, so maybe they have some tricks - or perhaps they'll be able to weld another bolt to it without damaging anything.

Either way - when the bolt finally does come off - I'll be keeping it, to remind me never to buy another magna with the intention of swapping all the goodies off one onto the other again!!!

Have you tried to get that part from repco? they seem to have a bit of everything lying around... and whatever they dont have, they can normally get pretty fast

Just read through this, heh, sounds like a pain in the backside dude. Bad luck.
BTW when you remove a nut you should really pull up on the spanner when trying to remove a stubborn nut, not push down on it (because the maximum force you can induce on the end of the spanner can never exceed your own bodywieght)

I had a rounded wheel nut once on my car, and I couldnt get it off with anything. So I did that hammer-on-a-crap-head thing and pulled it off. It wasnt easy, but I got it off without much hastle.

Also rule of thumb, the longer your spanner, the easier it is for you to take off a tight nut.
Torque = r . F . sin(angle). r being the radius from the pivot, F being the force induced and s(angle) being the angle the force is being induced on the lever (90 degrees being the
largest quanitity of force). So the longer ur rod, the more torque u can induce :redface: lol

As Archimedes, 235 BC once said, "Give me a place to stand and I will move the earth" :P

Good luck anyway man.
`Pete

As Archimedes, 235 BC once said, "Give me a place to stand and I will move the earth" :P

Good luck anyway man.
`Pete

Give me a lever and a ..................... :badgrin: :D

Lube mobile got my moulded one off, standard call out fee.

Lube mobile got my moulded one off, standard call out fee.

Never even thought of that.......... just called them though, and the std call out fee is $120+ :shock: . I'm in the wrong line of work :redface: .

Never even thought of that.......... just called them though, and the std call out fee is $120+ :shock: . I'm in the wrong line of work :redface: .

:shock: :noway: :stoopid:

Never even thought of that.......... just called them though, and the std call out fee is $120+ :shock: . I'm in the wrong line of work :redface: .

Still cheaper than the specialist guy... at 180 + a fitting a new stud

have you tried calling a truck tyre place? they wouldnt probably come across this a fair bit as i would assume they would make sure the wheel nuts were nice and tight on those things....

The latest installment in the evil wheelnut from hell saga..............

The cars were getting the exhausts swapped over today - and I'd asked the guys at the exhaust place to take a look at it for me. One of the dudes there had a set of these (http://www.apo.com.au/remover.html) on him - and upon attempting to remove the wheel nut with this device, on the end of a rattle gun at maximum torque........





.......would you believe..........







.......the 'lug nut remover' socket BROKE!!!!!!!


after being welded back together and trying again.......... it broke again!!!!

Needless to say - its at the stage where my only option now is to have the stud drilled out. If I wasn't an athiest....... I'd swear this wheelnut was forged by satan himself :shock: .

Holy ****. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Aye there Black Beard still no luck with the wheel nut this is piss funny now lol just jokes mate I feel your pain, I have been reading this but still you havenot mentioned whether or not you have spoken to the "place" as of yet and if you havn't mate make sure you do.

Aye there Black Beard still no luck with the wheel nut this is piss funny now lol just jokes mate I feel your pain, I have been reading this but still you havenot mentioned whether or not you have spoken to the "place" as of yet and if you havn't mate make sure you do.


Hahaaaa :stoopid:

You no my thoughts on this and the place that did this work as I had the same prob but made them fix it, I warned you bout them buddy lol, but yeah mate make sure they pay for the damage this is no way your fault, why should you be out of pocket for either thier lack of experience or incompetance.

Cheers

James

Aye there Black Beard still no luck with the wheel nut this is piss funny now lol just jokes mate I feel your pain, I have been reading this but still you havenot mentioned whether or not you have spoken to the "place" as of yet and if you havn't mate make sure you do.

Unfortunately "the place" in question has been shut since the week before Christmas...... :doubt: .

I'm presuming they will reopen on the 9th........ so I'll pay them a visit on Monday afternoon me thinks.

Easy to be smart afterwards - but had I realised that no usual tool would work, I would have just used a hard 5 mm drill bit on it....
But - plenty of truble for one b-dy simple nut, stuffed by "professionals".

Well there you have it....... thats what happened to an ABW nut remover at 600 ft pounds of torque......

The nut hasn't budged!!!

PS: thats a picture of the tool, it was welded up after it broke the first time (split from the opening of the socket right thru to the driver piece mind you) .....and when you look closely at it - you can see that there is a 2nd crack running the entire length of the weld - thru the socket again, not just seperating the weld from the socket!!!!

http://img358.imageshack.us/img358/2899/p10100567oz.jpg

can u pm me also the wheel shop. i live on brisbanes south side and i went to this wheel place in capalaba and they stole my old mags off me wen i got new ones put on. i told them i wanted them back and i didnt find out they were missing from my boot till i got home.

Spoke to some guys at my local bob jane today while i was in there BB, and they reckon all they do is just get a size smaller, and just bass it on with a hammer, the sledge hammer might be too much force and actually be forcing it on harder.

anyway, they said ti takes a lot of patients cause it takes about an hour to get the smaller socket bashed on over the top. they said welding doesnt work becuase it just breaks at the weld. and they also said that the nut removers very rarely work. :doubt:





Also: with talk of all these dodgy placeas around brissie, i wonder if it would be possible to have a sticky thread in the state sections of amc for preferred repaier/service agent etc... where people put in who they prefer and the area that the business is in. then people can just search that thread to find a place :D

it might help avoid situations like this in the future.

can u pm me also the wheel shop. i live on brisbanes south side and i went to this wheel place in capalaba and they stole my old mags off me wen i got new ones put on. i told them i wanted them back and i didnt find out they were missing from my boot till i got home.
goto bobjane on kessals rd next to JB... $20 and your all good...:D

.. this nut sounds horrid..
how far did u say the nut is from the mag? 5 mm deep?
hmmm.... i have a thought..
take a dremel or similar.. with a small cutting wheel. and cut into the back of the nut.. sort of so it looks like this (|) well maybe not like that but you know what i mean..
then take a hammer and a big flat end screwdriver (big... i mean at least 10 mm wide head.)... and hammer the screwdriver in from each side into the cut at 30 - 45 degrees.
you will get 1 of 2 things. A) it will start cracking the nut.. B) it will loosen the nut C) you will break ur screwdriver LOL not likely..
anyway hope it helps and you get some joy outta it.
cheers

I've found the best thing for tight nuts is a good wench.
Not very useful info, but the best I can come up with at this time of night.

They used to have a product called penetrene a while ago. It's a thin red liquid that seeps into and loosens stubborn nuts. Any auto place could steer you in the right direction.

I put an anti-seize compound on my boat wheel nuts. Stops them from locking and they can be removed easily.

You could try parking it at the Hyperdome overnight.

I'll now get back to what I was doing....lip,sip,suck. (Try saying that real fast ten times)

Kansai

so it's been a long time since this ordeal... what was the outcome in the end? can you please PM the "place" as I live in Brisbane too.

smash a slightly smaller socket onto the nut

so it's been a long time since this ordeal... what was the outcome in the end? can you please PM the "place" as I live in Brisbane too.

I wouldn't worry about them........ they have gone out of business. But funnily enough - while my car has been down at 101 waiting for my 24 carrat solid gold LSD to be forged on the surface of the sun* - we've noticed that another one of my wheel nuts has been rounded. And I will tell you that this time it was done by Goodyear on Bradman st. Acacia Ridge. I will be paying them a little visit once I get the car back.

I actually think it has to do with the fact that I'm using the standard (brass, 21mm) wheel nuts, and they don't match the shape of the wheel nut seat, as they are always almost impossible to get undone (leading to them being rounded very easily).




* okay, that might be a slight exaggeration.

dont leave us hangin blackbeard what happened the first time did u get the nut off in the end?

dont leave us hangin blackbeard what happened the first time did u get the nut off in the end?

I'm sorry - I honestly thought I'd posted the outcome. My appologies :redface:

I ended up leaving in the hands of a mechanic who I had a fair bit of faith in. He was confident he could get it off without damaging my wheel. He was wrong.

Ended up drilling the nut to pieces - in the process making a hell of a mess of the wheel stud nut "seat". I then had to take the wheel to a engineering place to get a new insert machined and fitted into the stud seat. All up the excersize cost me about $200.

I guess the lesson to be learnt from it is don't use the factory magna exec wheel nuts with aftermarket wheels. I didn't learn the lesson the 1st time - and it looks like I'm going to have to go through that ordeal again.

i have come across this problem a couple of times, this only works if you have closed end nut on your existing wheels.
The way i found best is to find an open 21mm or 19mm nut and weld it on to the existing one from inside the nut to try and save any damage to ya rim. N/B find a good welder as you need a fair bit of penitration into the old nut with out welding the old nut to the stud and use a BIG BLOODY BAR....

The problem is not using the rattle gun, rattle guns are fine in the right hands. what happens is the end of the nut on the tapper fragments off binding into the rim which in turm makes it hell to get off. Use a single hex socket on the nut you weld on else you will have the same problem again. If not drilling is ya only option



this is rather an old post

thanks blackbeard, now I can speed at night lol

everytime I get work done to the car that needs the wheels off I always udo the nuts and retighten them properly. sometimes I need a 1/2m bar and jump on it to get the nuts off. agree with cocopops that its the taper bit that binds the wheel and makes it hard to take off.

If all else has failed, can I make a suggestion of using a co**** grinding ball - similar to those used for port and polishing - to grind the nut and stud off. Once you get deep enough i.e. to the wheel you can remove the wheel and replace the stud. Be a bit of a bugger and might take a couple of grinding balls plus a fair bit of patience but maybe the heat will loosen the stiction between the nut and the stud and you can try taking the nut off again as you grind in further by using the methods above. Could use a router to hold/drive the grinding ball so the grinder goes in straight and doesn't damage the wheel and if you do damage the wheel around the stud hole - aluminium welder places should be able to fix it up anyway.
:D

Dynamite ...... can't go wgrong with a stick o' dynamite.:nuts:

Impact System,
You can buy an impact nut remover quite cheaply.

Looks like a big tube. Half inch drive square on bottom, Toughened steel block on top.
Fit socket onto nut, fit impactor, Make sure that it set to undo, hold firmly and hit with a big hammer.
My experience is that somethng like a club hammer is a better bet than trying to smash a lighter hammer on the tool.
The only things that can go wrong are 1) split the socket, 2) shear the wheel stud off - at least the nut is off the wheel! or 3) you miss with the hammer and smash fingers or wheel - OUCH!!
Gerry.