Hi guys, after alot of thinking and calculating i realised that adding this wide body would make it heavier, also after being in mates cars they were all really fast, so one thing led to another, the wide body was put on hold for something that would keep my car off the road, i considered a supercharger but changed my opinion because i would have to be in high rpm range to get anything out of it, so ive now decided on a turbo, some engine mods have been done to support the turbo. my first mod was to replace the timing chain (not really a mod) i have stage 2 cams with heavyduty valve springs, the head is being sent to be ported and polished at stage 2, throttlebody and intake also will be ported and polished, i have also been waiting for a few things to arrive such as my TDO5H turbo received not long a go, i wil have pics of all my stuff layed out such as a massive front mount, i am building it to run about 14 psi, im going to order a head shim (compression gasket) im not shure what size to get, there is only two, one is .8 mm and .15mm, im not to shure what one i need, does anyone have a little info on them, i can really help me out thanx.

i'm guessing u already posted something up here with a pic of the wide body but i missed it, and i can understand why u would put it on hold for a turbo an other parts but i'd like to see some pics

If you're looking to run anything over 6 or 7 psi you'll need at least a compression ration of 8.5:1. Assuming you've a 6g72 Sohc right now you're running 10:1 which wont take lot to blow a rod at 14psi. My advice, instead of getting a head shim just buy some 3000gt (GTO) TT pistons and rods at the correct CR. They cost around 1000USD so thats a lot more in AUD but will be much more efficient then a small head shim.

Oh, and 14psi + FWD = Spin City... At the quarter you'll trap huge speed but have slow times and a worn out motor

8psi + FWD = Less spin, lower trap speed, same E/T and a longer lasting motor... i know what i'd prefer :D

If you're looking to run anything over 6 or 7 psi you'll need at least a compression ration of 8.5:1. Assuming you've a 6g72 Sohc right now you're running 10:1 which wont take lot to blow a rod at 14psi. My advice, instead of getting a head shim just buy some 3000gt (GTO) TT pistons and rods at the correct CR. They cost around 1000USD so thats a lot more in AUD but will be much more efficient then a small head shim.

Oh, and 14psi + FWD = Spin City... At the quarter you'll trap huge speed but have slow times and a worn out motor

8psi + FWD = Less spin, lower trap speed, same E/T and a longer lasting motor... i know what i'd prefer :D

The engine is 4G54, 2.6 astron

oh then i dont know the stock compression of that.

i just did a quick skim over my workshop manual of my car (TR 2.6L) and i could only find the compression ratio which is 8.8:1

16psi + FWD = *** crazy fun.

hehehe... just got back from driving a mates VR4 2L Turbo 94 CC Lancer.... that thing is fun. Man who cares about the wheel spin... still hauls arse and makes a lot of people look.

16psi + FWD = *** crazy fun.

hehehe... just got back from driving a mates VR4 2L Turbo 94 CC Lancer.... that thing is fun. Man who cares about the wheel spin... still hauls arse and makes a lot of people look.

you NEED to get me on to that fella Rob.
:shock:
im doing the exact conversion to a mates car and need a solution to the clutch problem.
you have PM

16psi + FWD = *** crazy fun.

hehehe... just got back from driving a mates VR4 2L Turbo 94 CC Lancer.... that thing is fun. Man who cares about the wheel spin... still hauls arse and makes a lot of people look.

Its 14 psi mate, im actualy going to lower that figure to 12 just to be on the safe side.

12psi isnt even worth it in FWD... double figures is just pointless, you'll get through tires and cv joints every couple weeks due to the amount of spin you'll be getting.

Start low like 6 or 7 and work up from that til you start excessive spin.

12psi isnt even worth it in FWD... double figures is just pointless, you'll get through tires and cv joints every couple weeks due to the amount of spin you'll be getting.

Start low like 6 or 7 and work up from that til you start excessive spin.

You cant really say that because there has not been any one with over 200Hp, in a TR astron 2.6

here are some pics of just a few items the will help me along, after the stage 2 port and polish the car will be heading up to a work shop and he will be doing the manifole, ecu, exhaust and cooler piping, i trust this guy and knows what hes talking about and dosent give you simplified answers wich i have experienced from other people.

It doesnt matter what motor is making it its the drive train that cant handle it. You put more then about 250 horsepower down to FWD and you'll be spinning. I'm doing a TT conversion myself and running 6psi will have me between 300 and 330bhp so thats around 250 at the wheels and i KNOW i'm gonna burn up tires...

Though in typing all that i see your point, you're making less power and the higher psi still might not be close to the same power made from the v6 dohc.

I still recommed starting low and using boost control to up it to a comfortable psi level before starting high at 12 and damaging something.

It doesnt matter what motor is making it its the drive train that cant handle it. You put more then about 250 horsepower down to FWD and you'll be spinning. I'm doing a TT conversion myself and running 6psi will have me between 300 and 330bhp so thats around 250 at the wheels and i KNOW i'm gonna burn up tires...

Though in typing all that i see your point, you're making less power and the higher psi still might not be close to the same power made from the v6 dohc.

I still recommed starting low and using boost control to up it to a comfortable psi level before starting high at 12 and damaging something.

bud ur full of ****

here are some pics of just a few items the will help me along, after the stage 2 port and polish the car will be heading up to a work shop and he will be doing the manifole, ecu, exhaust and cooler piping, i trust this guy and knows what hes talking about and dosent give you simplified answers wich i have experienced from other people.
Man, that bov is going to be so loud, i had 1 with a single trumpet and it annoyed the **** out of me.... You should have got one that can also be partial plumback to quieten it...

It doesnt matter what motor is making it its the drive train that cant handle it. You put more then about 250 horsepower down to FWD and you'll be spinning. I'm doing a TT conversion myself and running 6psi will have me between 300 and 330bhp so thats around 250 at the wheels and i KNOW i'm gonna burn up tires...

Though in typing all that i see your point, you're making less power and the higher psi still might not be close to the same power made from the v6 dohc.

I still recommed starting low and using boost control to up it to a comfortable psi level before starting high at 12 and damaging something.

you see its easier to say your doing a turbo conversion than actually doing it, because what i have learnt most about going on cruises of other cars, such as fords, holdens and magnas, you talk to nearly evry bloke there and when you look in there engine bay and they tell you "ummm oh im gonna turbo this soon" if they were doing it there car wouldnt be on the road, because its alot easier said than done, on these forums i know a few people who say they are going to turbo their magnas, i can say my car will be Turbo soon because i have evedent proof and my car isnt running atm because of engine work being done, for me 5-6 weeks is soon, i just have to wait till the 28th to consider sending it to the work shop, and then theres mongas magna that was off the road for a while 2 because of the turbo kit being set up...(my bro is going to twin turbo his excell hes looking at about 600fwhp after it all:P)

i'm thinkin bout doin this but probably wont (like most ppl) cos im not sure on the price and i dont really want to be without a car for too long but i'd definitely like 2 hear how ur car turns out. (i'll probably just get port polish, cam, throttle body, extractors, exhaust, and o a V6, none of them will do **** for my current 4g54 carbielol ). (working on V6 first, i know what i gotta do, i have to cut and weld v6 mount in place.) Tell me if u get any gearbox troubles after the turbo

You mean proof like the 1200 dollars worth of turbo parts i've got sitting in my house, or the fact my motor is gonna be sitting on an engine stand for a couple months while i put on all the necessary mechanical parts, or the months of research and part finding i've gone through to find all what i need aside from just a couple of td04's.

I know there's hundreds of people that say "i'm gonna do this" or "i'm gonna do that" and it pissed me off too, thats why i actually grew a pair, got off my lazy ass and started doing it. The attached photos were of the first lot of stuff i got, since then i've also got an intake pipe, intake hoses, bov, o2 housing, down pipe, SAFC-II, oil filter housing, oil lines and water lines.

All thats really needed now is a FPR, some resistors to wire in the larger injectors from a 3kgt, a fuel pump, nuts, bolts, gaskets, water housing and a shed load of labor.

I can assure you that I'm not full of **** and if any of you cared to take a look on the Diamante Owners site you'd know that. Not that i'm accusing anyone of anything here, i know we all get sick of wannabe's bragging about stuff they're gonna do, just proving my point that i'm not one of them ass hats.

You mean proof like the 1200 dollars worth of turbo parts i've got sitting in my house, or the fact my motor is gonna be sitting on an engine stand for a couple months while i put on all the necessary mechanical parts, or the months of research and part finding i've gone through to find all what i need aside from just a couple of td04's.

I know there's hundreds of people that say "i'm gonna do this" or "i'm gonna do that" and it pissed me off too, thats why i actually grew a pair, got off my lazy ass and started doing it. The attached photos were of the first lot of stuff i got, since then i've also got an intake pipe, intake hoses, bov, o2 housing, down pipe, SAFC-II, oil filter housing, oil lines and water lines.

All thats really needed now is a FPR, some resistors to wire in the larger injectors from a 3kgt, a fuel pump, nuts, bolts, gaskets, water housing and a shed load of labor.

I can assure you that I'm not full of **** and if any of you cared to take a look on the Diamante Owners site you'd know that. Not that i'm accusing anyone of anything here, i know we all get sick of wannabe's bragging about stuff they're gonna do, just proving my point that i'm not one of them ass hats.

Well you got my respect, thatz awsome i like to c other people doin stuff like that, were bouts u from ?

this is just a scale size of my intercooler so you know how big it actually is and a pic of the engine with roket cover off, the heads gone atm, i got a new head ported and polished thanx to Galloways, with no extra charge

Thanks for the moral support, i'm originally from England but emigrated to the states so currently living in the US of A. I believe i'm going to be the first and only twin turbo'd Diamante in the US.

And again, i dont blame anyone for disbelieving me, we get the same **** over at DOG all the time of wannabe's saying they're gonna do this, that and the other. But yeah, i'm not one of them guys :D

I've got respect for anyone turboing any car that was never meant to have a turbo in it, but with a 6g72 DOHC my car was just screaming to have the twin TD04's out of a 3000gt or GTO and i cant believe nobody has done it before me.

I'm gonna pretty much start the install next week and "Hope" to run a 1/4 mile or at least dyno tune by my birthday on the 6th of April. The reason i 'guestimate' 300-350hp is because essentially i'll run the same motor as the 3000gt VR4 albeit without AWD, however i'm about 200lbs lighter then a vr4 so that should even out and thus be around the same HP at the crank. Rest assured i'll give a good run down on all what was needed, what problems arise, what made it harder then it should and what was easier then expected. But i still stand firm on running low boost and bringing it up to a comftable level rather then starting high and going "oops". I'm running on factory 7psi but on old wastegates, bov and turbos i'm expecting a real 6psi. After testing and running that i "may" increase that to 8 or 9 but i know on 10:1 compression i'll be pushing way too much for FWD to be street reasonable.

The fastest FWD 3000gt in the world runs in the 20's for PSI and a 10 second quarter but thats with THOUSANDS of dollars worth of mods but still on 10:1, stock pistons and stock rods.

It doesnt matter what motor is making it its the drive train that cant handle it. You put more then about 250 horsepower down to FWD and you'll be spinning. I'm doing a TT conversion myself and running 6psi will have me between 300 and 330bhp so thats around 250 at the wheels and i KNOW i'm gonna burn up tires...FYI, Booya's single turbo 6G72 made over 300kW at the wheels, and it was perfectly tractable.

FYI, Booya's single turbo 6G72 made over 300kW at the wheels, and it was perfectly tractable.

yer that was a 3rd gen, were in 2nd gen magna forums here dude.

Yeah, I realise that. Point is, generalisations about how much power the chassis can handle are a bit silly when there are plenty of examples of people doing things without any problems that supposedly "can't be done".

yer that was a 3rd gen, were in 2nd gen magna forums here dude.
Yeh but d_packs engine is basically a more advanced 3rd gen engine.

Keep up the good work guys! Good to see some more modded maggies about :D.

FYI, Booya's single turbo 6G72 made over 300kW at the wheels, and it was perfectly tractable.

Wasnt he running a 6g74? I may be wrong there, never really checked. And yeah, i'm not saying more then 250FWHP is impossible, just that N/A driving at that level is not recommending (i.e WOT off the line or at a red light turning green) because instaspool creates major wheelspin. Sure any car can be babied off the line but who wants to drive like that :D

Like i said in a previous statement, i know i'm new around here, and i know i've boasted a lot of things, i just havent backed them well enough to get my message across that i'm not one of the classic wannabe's that we all see. Yes i dont know everything, i dont claim to know half as much as i wish i did and i still resort to asking questions to me good turbo buddy (psshwhat) and a damn fine book he recomended (Maximum Boost by Corky Bell). However I do have some backround to what i say and there is some method to the madness i spew out on these here forums.

Wasnt he running a 6g74? I may be wrong there, never really checked. And yeah, i'm not saying more then 250FWHP is impossible, just that N/A driving at that level is not recommending (i.e WOT off the line or at a red light turning green) because instaspool creates major wheelspin. Sure any car can be babied off the line but who wants to drive like that :DDefinately 6G72.

Agreed that you're unlikely to escape without any wheel spin if you drop it hard off the line, but Ben wasn't exactly gentle when he was driving me around, and the car did a damn good job of holding things together.

I guess its all a mystery of the unknown, we can only guess at so much, i know above 250fwhp will cause wheel spin but not many cars ever achieve that much hp at the wheels and so its guestimated idea. Yeah it can all be babied and ran, as i'm sure i'll learn once the twins are running. I'm just offering advice in SLOWLY hitting them figures rather then going from 150hp to 300hp as nobody knows how internals are gonna hold up to it and its better to start low and learn then start high and regret.

As VIP stated, we all have the up most respect for people trying this new **** and anyone that can pull it off will go down in the books as 'heros' albeit in a small community. I dont have hard feelings to anyone that has attempted, thought about, or achieved a FI D/M/S. And to see Ben's (booya's) car go down like that was a heart felt stomp world wide, i can assure you of that, we all morned over at DOG too guys.

tdo4 nice turbo using one atm, tdo5 would be better

i second Monga with that, ive heard the TD04 from the 3000GT is probably a bit to small, something like a TD05 would be good or so i have heard. The TD04's at anything above stock boost are too ineficent, but do allow for lots of torque, and with your high reviing motor something with that little bit more torque down low would be good, just depends on how and when you want the power!

Well i'm pretty sure twin TD04's on the DOHC engine will be fine for now, afterall thats what comes stock on the 3000gt with the same motor. One of them would be far too small for a honking 3.0 V6 but two work just fine :D.

They're good to about 12psi but you stop making power over about 6000rpms which is kinda lame when your car redlines at 7300rpms and your average WOT shift point is 6800.

Thing is i'm not aiming to have the fastest car in the world, if i can break into the 13's with it i'll be happy and if i can tune it to the low 13's i'll be ecstatic. I just want something unique, different, and my own.

Well i'm pretty sure twin TD04's on the DOHC engine will be fine for now, afterall thats what comes stock on the 3000gt with the same motor. One of them would be far too small for a honking 3.0 V6 but two work just fine :D.

They're good to about 12psi but you stop making power over about 6000rpms which is kinda lame when your car redlines at 7300rpms and your average WOT shift point is 6800.

Thing is i'm not aiming to have the fastest car in the world, if i can break into the 13's with it i'll be happy and if i can tune it to the low 13's i'll be ecstatic. I just want something unique, different, and my own.

thats it, something different and unique, and 13s down the strip would be nice, i guess i will see were it goes, with the cam and head worked, and a TDO5H turbo, i think i would be looking at some nice figures, but i cant say, because no one has done that before, its basically a guessing game to a certain extent, because the engine work could do magic, or it could all have been a waste of time and money, i will let use all know, car goes in sometime after 28th, i will run 10 psi to be safe because i know the engine will hold together, but i will ask for the dyno tune to be run at 12 psi because i got the compression plate, and this all started with a magna i got for $500 it was manual and white, the engine was gone so i put another engine in it and went from there, basically this new engine has not been in the car yet, i will be hiding my massive front mount, with some mesh infront of the custom bumper, the only give away will be the dual 4 inch outlet cannon mufflers, some people will think ive just gone and put an exhaust on my car hehe, they will probably laugh to, untill they hear the BoV, or see me fly past.

tdo4 nice turbo using one atm, tdo5 would be better

Care to explain your logic? Bigger isn't always better. The stock 9b Turbos (TD04) from the 6G72TT Engine are MORE than enough for him to reach his power goal. They are a ton of fun on the street and with the higher compresion will provide insanely quick spool. This will make for a load of Torque and still make enough power on the top end to reach his 300+Hp goal with ease.

Also you mention "tdo5 would be better". Well in my world there are dozens of tdo5 Turbos. I personally run a "Small" TD05 16G with a ported 7cm Turbine housing on my Galant VR4. This ONE single turbo is easily capable of 300Hp and it's the small one. Putting 2 of these on a V6 would just cause increased lag and no real benefit up top because he wouldn't be able to raise the boost enough to benefit from it. They may make *slightly* more power at the same boost as a pair of 9b's but at the expense of slower spool and much higher cost. You want small fast spooling turbos in an all stock automatic. With a pair of even the small 16g's it would bog off the line and probably end up running the same or a slower time than the 9b's at the same boost level.

Oh and back to my point, when you say "TD05" you need to be specific. There are numerous models that run the TD05 Turbine wheel and have it stamped on the Compressor housing. For example -

Small 16g
Big 16g
Evo 3 16g
18g
20g

Not to mention the different exhaust housings, porting options, clipping of the turbine wheel, and so on.




i second Monga with that, ive heard the TD04 from the 3000GT is probably a bit to small, something like a TD05 would be good or so i have heard. The TD04's at anything above stock boost are too ineficent, but do allow for lots of torque, and with your high reviing motor something with that little bit more torque down low would be good, just depends on how and when you want the power!

Well they are to small if you want 500Hp. A pair of them is plenty as I explained above. They do get less efficient above stock boost but are capable of more than stock and an increase in power. Although he never mentioned anything about upping the boost to insane levels. Mostly just the minimum boost allowed by the factory wastegate, which is 7 psi. Once it goes through the maze of intercooler piping and intercoolers it will likely drop 1 or 2 psi. When everything is running swell and checked over raising the boost a few psi would be just fine, even on the small TD04's. You have to remember we are talking about 2 Turbos. Each one is only having to support roughly 150-175Bhp, thats not a lot. Again when you say TD05, you too need to be more specific as well.

On to the topic of traction. It is apparent most of you have never been in a highly powered FWD vehicle. I personally have been in numerous 300+Hp FWD cars. At this level even with GOOD tires they spin like mad. A lot of FWD cars can more more power and the ET will go up along with the Trap speed. Why? Because they are making more power and get up to a higher speed on the track but it comes with a sacrifice. Your ET gets slower because you end up spinning more. Look at the trap speed on RPW's car, 120+mph. Yet he ran a high 11 second ET, why? Because even with slicks traction sucks for FWD. You have weight transfer working against you. In an AWD/RWD car on street tires a 120Mph trap speed is good for low-mid 11's depending on vehicle weight. There is no set number where traction becomes and issue and there are LOADS of variables. However for your standard street car with normal tires much over 200Whp/200Ft/lbs traction is already a major issue off the line. Then as you increase power the traction problems follow. The more power the longer you spin. Until you end up spinning all the way down the track. Launching is where it hurts most and thats the most important part of a drag race. Even in a stock FWD car launching sucks, the more power the harder it gets. Just some food for thought.

Care to explain your logic? Bigger isn't always better. The stock 9b Turbos (TD04) from the 6G72TT Engine are MORE than enough for him to reach his power goal. They are a ton of fun on the street and with the higher compresion will provide insanely quick spool. This will make for a load of Torque and still make enough power on the top end to reach his 300+Hp goal with ease.

Also you mention "tdo5 would be better". Well in my world there are dozens of tdo5 Turbos. I personally run a "Small" TD05 16G with a ported 7cm Turbine housing on my Galant VR4. This ONE single turbo is easily capable of 300Hp and it's the small one. Putting 2 of these on a V6 would just cause increased lag and no real benefit up top because he wouldn't be able to raise the boost enough to benefit from it. They may make *slightly* more power at the same boost as a pair of 9b's but at the expense of slower spool and much higher cost. You want small fast spooling turbos in an all stock automatic. With a pair of even the small 16g's it would bog off the line and probably end up running the same or a slower time than the 9b's at the same boost level.

Oh and back to my point, when you say "TD05" you need to be specific. There are numerous models that run the TD05 Turbine wheel and have it stamped on the Compressor housing. For example -

Small 16g
Big 16g
Evo 3 16g
18g
20g

Not to mention the different exhaust housings, porting options, clipping of the turbine wheel, and so on.





Well they are to small if you want 500Hp. A pair of them is plenty as I explained above. They do get less efficient above stock boost but are capable of more than stock and an increase in power. Although he never mentioned anything about upping the boost to insane levels. Mostly just the minimum boost allowed by the factory wastegate, which is 7 psi. Once it goes through the maze of intercooler piping and intercoolers it will likely drop 1 or 2 psi. When everything is running swell and checked over raising the boost a few psi would be just fine, even on the small TD04's. You have to remember we are talking about 2 Turbos. Each one is only having to support roughly 150-175Bhp, thats not a lot. Again when you say TD05, you too need to be more specific as well.

On to the topic of traction. It is apparent most of you have never been in a highly powered FWD vehicle. I personally have been in numerous 300+Hp FWD cars. At this level even with GOOD tires they spin like mad. A lot of FWD cars can more more power and the ET will go up along with the Trap speed. Why? Because they are making more power and get up to a higher speed on the track but it comes with a sacrifice. Your ET gets slower because you end up spinning more. Look at the trap speed on RPW's car, 120+mph. Yet he ran a high 11 second ET, why? Because even with slicks traction sucks for FWD. You have weight transfer working against you. In an AWD/RWD car on street tires a 120Mph trap speed is good for low-mid 11's depending on vehicle weight. There is no set number where traction becomes and issue and there are LOADS of variables. However for your standard street car with normal tires much over 200Whp/200Ft/lbs traction is already a major issue off the line. Then as you increase power the traction problems follow. The more power the longer you spin. Until you end up spinning all the way down the track. Launching is where it hurts most and thats the most important part of a drag race. Even in a stock FWD car launching sucks, the more power the harder it gets. Just some food for thought.

iv had both on my car so i know pal
go read a book on worms

Great comeback. Boy, you really showed me up.

iv had both on my car so i know pal
go read a book on worms

So you've run both on your car... and claim the td05 is better (or one of its many many varients)... yet list your mods as you're still running a td04. With that mentality you downgraded back to the smaller turbo. Oh and even at 10psi your car makes less power then my normally aspirated motor. So what, you breaking the 15's yet?

Seriously man, when you can come back and make a good argument other then "this would be better" or "go read a book on worms" then please come and converse with us that even know what size injectors we're running.

And in closing i can use your own words pal... "Bud you're full of ****"

i am a doctor

guys just remember.....



:P

hey vip it says in ur profile ur car has a 3.5ltr v6

Monga, discuss/argue intelligently...It's the only warning I'll give.

Monga, discuss/argue intelligently...It's the only warning I'll give.

Yeah kids, play nice :D

hey guys, more progress, i just got my head back, its been ported and polished and valve speings have been fitted properly, not just slapped in. heres a few pics (with the stage 2 turbo cam in it)

looking gooooood.