Hey all,

I've finally started to do my fronts. My dreams and wishes have been majorly slowed down from nearly a year ago, but as I'm getting married in April, I think that I'm willing to take that! Instead of wanting the top of top morels and zapco amps (I still WANT them) I've gone with Good ole Jaycar stuff, just to see how good I can make it sound. Anyway, I've got the 6.5 Kevlar woofers, the super car tweeters (oh how super they must be to be called that ;) ) the crossovers to make them the splits that seem to get good reviews for their price. This is powered by a 4x100w bridged to 2 channels, so plenty of headroom. I've got 2 Pioneer TS-W306C 12" subbies, with a 2x150w bridged. Seems a fairly common setup anyway. No rear fill as I CBF. I've had the amps installed for some time... and yes tim, they're under my seats where I have the a/c on cold in winter. lol But seriously, it's not that bad. I've driven them as hard as I want to, and it doesn't get too hot down there. Anyway, I've just gotten the front speakers and a teeny bit of deadening and have just pulled my doors to bits tonight. I've taken lots of piccies and will do a photo tutorial when it's all done.

My question concerns SPECIFIC ideas for deadening. In particular, how do you go about paint on deadening? Doing the outer skins, and the inside of the inner skins, obviously... but do you just put it on as best you can? I have the power windows which makes for a rather bulky actuator package smack-dab in the middle of the door. Probably a good brace for the skin really, but I don't want to smear it with bitumen stuff. Am I right in thinking to put it where there is clear metal for it to go on and not mess with with anything critical. (obviously not rocket science)

I also got those dynaxorb diffuses to go behind the drivers. No hassles there. Wondering if anyone has used them? They seem a sensible thing to me, was going to use the foam stuff but noticed these, and thought why not!

Now the killer.... why the crap is autobarn charging so much for dynamat? or is it really 300 bucks for a 2 door pack? I really don't want to spend that much, because I don't have the hugest speakers, and as it's been said, a little bit of deadening goes a long way. I plan on sealing the service holes, with mdf and tape. I also plan on somehow making the trims a little more braced, and rattle free... I wanted to do this with dynamat, but not for that price. Any ideas? I personally think for my needs, dynamat along with a paint on, and diffuser and mdf sealed door would be overkill. Should I just put a rubbber type underlay behind the trim to seal/brace/stop the thing moving? Maybe paint the inside of the trim with the deadener to increase the weight of it?

Same deal with my roof. Being a wagon, it's a massive ceiling in it, and the tin on top is very much like a rolf harris wobble board when the bass is calling. I'd probably do dynamat up there. But just want someone to pat my shoulder and say, here... have 3 square km's for 20 bucks. Mainly on the roof I just want to brace it. I was thinking the foam rubber trick again just to fill the gap that flexes so much. It doesn't need to take any driver pushing it so much as just not flex the roof itself too much. The rubber underlay stuff is quite dense too. Stupid idea to think about paint on deadener on the roof skin???

The sub box is in final stages of design, and will be built before too much longer hopefully. I'm going to use 26mm mdf, or if that's too much of a pain, I'll just lamnate 2 sheets of 18mm... giving a rather heavy 36mm sub box. I've got the figures, but from memory it's a 66L sealed box, fitting between my wheel arches at the back, angled under the back seat, and angled on the front. So quite a small footprint (though 1150mm wide) for what it is. To stop the sub being a prick, I'm making an 18mm sheet the size of the wagon area. This will go under the carpet, and just give it that density to stop the boominess hopefully. I don't like the 6mm masonite giving way to a nice metally wheel-well. I think I'll do the 18mm sheet instead of sound deadening the boot area. The rest of the car is good, no real bad rattles. The doors haven't even been rattling, but that's because there's no speakers in them yet!!!

So there's my ideas, shoot me down or help me out!!!! and I will certainly give you all pics as I go.

Sorry for my inability to make short posts. I bet not many of you do enough quality reading anyway. Not that this is quality by any means.

Here's a pic of my naked front door for those who wondered if there really WAS a speaker space behind a 2nd gen door skin!!!!!!!! I honestly don't know why they didn't just put one there to begin with. The dashboard things are an excuse for a speaker. I've used them as an unwilling and most awful quality tweeter for the past 4 months... lol But now they're sounding liking bricks going through windows. Want some clarity again! I guess the paper cones are wearing out a bit. But honestly... the gains WERE turned down!!.... ;)

oh oh oh!!!!!! I forgot!!! I'm going to measure the volume of the front doors too!!!! :D :D :D Just for the heck of it! Wanna help me eekie? Do you still live in the same place? I've moved, but only a few streets.

how do you go about paint on deadening? Doing the outer skins, and the inside of the inner skins, obviously... but do you just put it on as best you can? I have the power windows which makes for a rather bulky actuator package smack-dab in the middle of the door. Probably a good brace for the skin really, but I don't want to smear it with bitumen stuff. Am I right in thinking to put it where there is clear metal for it to go on and not mess with with anything critical. (obviously not rocket science)

Put it everywhere. As the rattles will come from all the little mechansisms as well. Best bet is to use a spray gun to apply, but I've gotten away with a paintbrush. (Use paintbrushes you wont be using again as they tend to set like a rock.)
With the mechanisms, play with them for a bit to ascertain which parts cant be deadened. (Moving/oiled parts you'll want to mask them up if spraying or just be careful with the brush.)
Otherwise the major areas are bare metal. As these will have the highest resonant frequency point as the metal is thin and there is lots of it with no bracing to absorb the sound waves. Best way to check is by tapping on them area, if its rattly, deaden. If solid, deaden later ;)
If you are limited with your deadener, start at the driver (behind and around it) and work your way back. Still tape up your lock rods with duct tape to weigh them down a bit.


I also got those dynaxorb diffuses to go behind the drivers. No hassles there. Wondering if anyone has used them? They seem a sensible thing to me, was going to use the foam stuff but noticed these, and thought why not!
Sounds great! Will work perfectly behind the drivers, Deaden underneath still with sheet deadener and prepsol/clean over the deadener before applying.


why the crap is autobarn charging so much for dynamat? or is it really 300 bucks for a 2 door pack? I really don't want to spend that much, because I don't have the hugest speakers, and as it's been said, a little bit of deadening goes a long way. I plan on sealing the service holes, with mdf and tape. I also plan on somehow making the trims a little more braced, and rattle free... I wanted to do this with dynamat, but not for that price. Any ideas? I personally think for my needs, dynamat along with a paint on, and diffuser and mdf sealed door would be overkill. Should I just put a rubbber type underlay behind the trim to seal/brace/stop the thing moving? Maybe paint the inside of the trim with the deadener to increase the weight of it?
Dynamat is the best but very exxy. Try GSpot instead. Check out their website. You'll find it's a tad cheaper, and still a known car audio brand, so will do the job well. A little bit does go a long way, You can afford to spread out the deadener. Some people lay it out in a grid pattern to make it go a bit further, this still achieves similar results as it stops the big areas of metal which resonate the worst.
For the trims I use the paint on deadener. (I only used the Sheet deadener on the doors) Since the splits dont have that much power going through them, you could get away with only deadening spot areas behind the trim that annoy you. Remember you can take apart the panels of fabric I found a few rattles behind there (although thats with a couple of hundred watts going into the doors.)


Same deal with my roof. Being a wagon, it's a massive ceiling in it, and the tin on top is very much like a rolf harris wobble board when the bass is calling. I'd probably do dynamat up there. But just want someone to pat my shoulder and say, here... have 3 square km's for 20 bucks. Mainly on the roof I just want to brace it. I was thinking the foam rubber trick again just to fill the gap that flexes so much. It doesn't need to take any driver pushing it so much as just not flex the roof itself too much. The rubber underlay stuff is quite dense too. Stupid idea to think about paint on deadener on the roof skin???
It isnt too hard to deaden the roof, just get the deadener, slide it up into the roof cavity at the front and press it from behind the roof lining. (saves taking the roof lining out) I would focus on the doors first. And then look towards getting rid of spot subbass rattle (foam behind no plate etc.) Otherwise this could end up very exxy for you.


I'm making an 18mm sheet the size of the wagon area. This will go under the carpet, and just give it that density to stop the boominess hopefully.
Sounds good, and also makes it much easier to mount your box / amps.

peace

Tim

oh oh oh!!!!!! I forgot!!! I'm going to measure the volume of the front doors too!!!! :D :D :D Just for the heck of it! Wanna help me eekie? Do you still live in the same place? I've moved, but only a few streets.
Ooh, very interested to know this too :)

ANd is it just me or is this thread screwing up. like its missing a poll or something? I keep looking in it and my post is the first post... *clears browser cache*

And I made this post after I made the next post, why is the order wrong?? Argh


Anyway congrats with the marriage too.

Heyy!!! Phil! I thought u disappeared or got drunk and passed out in a ditch or something.

Yeah, I'm on uni holidays atm, and if I'm not at work, I have all the time in the world pretty much hahahaha.

I recently s/d my doors. I got that stuff from northfield moooororoorooka, just on kessels road....They charge 250 (I got it for a little bit less than 250 :P) for a trunk kit...and I used barely half of the trunk kit to do my doors. They probably don't have any 'door kits' in stock atm, but u can ring them up jsut to make sure.

I can't decide whether to s/d my boot and parcel shelf...might just do parcel shelf...or none at all. I'll see what I'll do with my left over s/d....there's like, another 2 full sheets or something left.

Btw, where'd u move to? Still in the estate?

I can't decide whether to s/d my boot and parcel shelf...might just do parcel shelf...or none at all. I'll see what I'll do with my left over s/d....there's like, another 2 full sheets or something left.



I'd say do them both. Get another trunk kit and do your entire boot, you'll be amazed at how much better it sounds. Use the other 2 sheets you have to do the parcel shelf. Or you could do what I'm doing for the parcel shelf and making a thicker one, that way it'll help stop a lot of the vibrations. You won't need too much for the parcel shelf itself.

I'd say do them both. Get another trunk kit and do your entire boot, you'll be amazed at how much better it sounds. Use the other 2 sheets you have to do the parcel shelf. Or you could do what I'm doing for the parcel shelf and making a thicker one, that way it'll help stop a lot of the vibrations. You won't need too much for the parcel shelf itself.

yyyeah, but i'm a hella lazy mofo. I come home from work, drink beer, then go to sleep. :doubt:

Nothing else happens really....

yyyeah, but i'm a hella lazy mofo. I come home from work, drink beer, then go to sleep. :doubt:

Nothing else happens really....

Sounds exactly like me. The best way to sound-deaden, is get an empty weekend, a slab of beers, a portable BBQ, sausages, bread and tomato sauce. You're all good then. You'll probably pass out before you even get to the sound-deadening but it's still a good weekend :)

far out! It's pretty hard work painting inside doors! I've got the brush on stuff, half wish I had the spray on now... but the paint on seemed more dense. I've done the inside of the drivers door, it looks good! Still doesn't sound dead just by tapping the door skin, but seems a bit more dense. I'll give it another coat tomorrow anyway. And when I seal the door it should be better.

I also made a rough baffle, which actually fits the indentation in the door very nicely, yet is made from 18mm mdf. And the woofer fits in nice and snugly. So should be a piece of cake to whack that in when everything else is done. Gotta make one for the other door now!

And eek didn't show up to help with the deadening! slack! I think one sheet of your dynamat would square it all up though! ;)

Here are pics! :D The door, the baffle, and then just a shot for those of you interested in the size of the magnet on these drivers that some person keeps raving about! lol

I'll find out the volume when everything is ready to go, all sealed up etc. Will fill the door with bean bag balls from the window slot. We have a good vacuum cleaner thankfully.

I have used the dynaxorb diffusers in my car and they are great! Mind you i sound deadened both inner, outer skins and trim on the front doors, the outerskins on the rear doors and the boot! Makes a massive improvement.

Try Stinger Expert Roadkill deadener. I got a 2 door pack from JB HIFI for $130!! (RRP$179).
Took me just over 1/2 of the kit to do one door properly (all service holes sealed etc.)
So in the end you would probably need a 2 door kit + a single door kit. This will give you a little bit left over as well to use wherever you like.

make sure u leave ur drain holes cleared too, otherwise your door / car will fill up with water