Im wanting to remove the two noise resonators on the air intake. i searched back through the topics looking for info on them and have found those spice lids to be the best gap filler.

my question is simply to find out from anyone if they have had any kinds of lids sucked into the TB?....

suggestions/warnings would be appriciated.

thanks again.

Why? Its no mirical 5kw power gain.

Why? Its no mirical 5kw power gain.

He wasnt claiming it is... maybe he just wants the sound? maybe its gonna be in his head, who really cares? Why not just answer his question if you know it or else say nothing at all?

And in responce to answering the question. You're better off using PVC end caps instead of a bottle cap. And seal them with some waterbased sealant. Absolutely no chance of being sucked into the TB then.

I'm pretty sure EZboy can sell you some caps he's designed especially for the purpose you are describing........ search for a post of his for confirmation - I'm sure he's got it listed in his sig.

i used welch plugs, and then a pipe clap to hold em :D

just get some powerade caps

and no they wont get sucked in, caz if u look inside the hole u can see there is like a little ledge which the cap would sit on so that it doesnt get sucked in

just get some powerade caps

and no they wont get sucked in, caz if u look inside the hole u can see there is like a little ledge which the cap would sit on so that it doesnt get sucked in
BUT.. plastic ones can warp, and start to leak air in, as told to me by Graham West Dyno Tuners...


because i had plastic ones, and they put welchys in :D

welsch plugs would definatly be the go.

hmmmmm they actually might be the prob im havin with my intake :confused:
my bottom one has something else goin into it so it would just be the top one
where do u get these welsh things from

welsch plugs would definatly be the go.
if your going to do it, may as well do it for less than $10 and NOT LOSE any power :D

safest and best way to do it if you must

the noise is purty :D

hmmmmm they actually might be the prob im havin with my intake :confused:
my bottom one has something else goin into it so it would just be the top one
where do u get these welsh things from
any motor parts store

repco/ sprints/ insert QLD distributor here

little round brass cap, like a milk cap, just brass

if you look at hte other end of your plenum (non TB end) you can see one plugging up the plenum :D

thats all they are ;)

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfparts/images/parts/small/3826504_small.jpg

As above, DO NOT use plastic caps, they will warp. The only thing gained from removing them is a louder, but sometimes i found it annoying intake.

ahh yep
got my old plenum sitting next to me, but i cant pull that plug out hahaha

i got some really thick plastic in there i got from a mates workshop but its not warped at all, oh well...

ahh yep
got my old plenum sitting next to me, but i cant pull that plug out hahaha

i got some really thick plastic in there i got from a mates workshop but its not warped at all, oh well...
acryllic plastic more than likely wont melt, but i would change it for your snail install...

turbo + happy gas = HEAT

heat = warped acryllic


so yes, acryllic prolly wont in a normal engine, but better safe than sorry

because milk lids WILL warp :D

i have a custom one that will be on with the haltec wen it finally goes back in so no acryilic with a turbo....

neways nick go with the welsch forget i mentioned bottle caps haha

I've got a milled peice of nylon. Sits flush with the inside of the pipe and you wouldn't even notice anything is missing.

i think ill PM EZ Boy, thanks for your help :)

Use blu-tac

Jellicos the man - Mcormicks spice bottle lids, trust me, try them and see :)

Matthius

Word :cool:

They fit like they were made by mitsu

Mcormicks spice bottle lids: has anyone had any problems with the flip top lid?.... or with it warping out of shape. I tryed one but wasnt sure if the flip top makes it weaker or not....

for $10 dont risk it

welch plugs will never warp, and wont get sucked in

why risk losing power?

learn from my mistake :P

how did u fasten them on?...sumthing like a hose clamp?

You use the non flip top ones, and they cant get sucked in, the bottom edge sits on the chamfer inside the hole and the bulge in the top of the lid sits on the outside ring of the whole, so you get 2 rest point.
The side wall of the mcormicks lid then seals against the side of the rubber hole using the factory hose clamp, simple as that - just pinch some lids of your parents/other half without them knowing :P

Have a look - it CANNOT get sucked in.

Matthius

how did u fasten them on?...sumthing like a hose clamp?
yes mate, theres one holding the inlet resinator on already

just use that one :D

I have the McCormicks Induction Mod Done and Because they have a Buldge they will not get sucked in or Warp with High Bonnet Temps,..



See Here

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25202&highlight=McCormicks

As Matthius already stated, it is imposible for the correct size lid to get sucked in as there is a small step on the inside of the holes the resonators connect to. But more safety is always better. :P

the best way is to put milk bottle caps in there with the flat side in first. push them all the way as far as they go. dont worry a lip on the intake stops em from getting sucked in. then put the resonators back on and clamp them in place. that way there will be no suction for the milk caps to be sucked in the intake and it looks original.

Nylon milled cap direct fit for the hole.

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pics30017gk.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pics30024if.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pics30034tf.jpg

so buy removin this all u get it sound ye???

so buy removin this all u get it sound ye???
an not a thing more./..

pure ricer mod, but sounds hawt :d

Nylon milled cap direct fit for the hole.

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pics30017gk.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pics30024if.jpg

http://img146.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pics30034tf.jpg


that looks like the go.. i bought 2 welsh plugs 2day... just doesnt seem right....there is no way those could slide through. are those the EZ Boy ones?

lol I cant beleive there is 4 pages of posts here... It's not rocket science. :p

hmmmmmmmmmmm might do this 2night lol

For all those saying it does nothing. Have YOU dyno tested it? NO! So do not answer the question if you don't know for SURE. You are all basing it off hearsay and making claims you CAN NOT back up with any data what so ever. I am getting sick of reading posts like this. People are taking what you say as fact when indeed it is NOT. It is simply a guess. :gtfo:

Now on to the answer that I have posted on here many times already. I have dyno tested my car with and without them. The runs were made back to back with no other changes made and only a few minutes in between each run. The peak power/torque gain is minimal. Both went up about .5 - 1.0. This is nothing to brag about at all and not worth mentioning really. However the real gain is the 5ft/lbs of torque it gained around 4k RPM. So yes THERE IS something to be gained by removing them. It's not like you are going to **** yourself because of all the new found power but every little bit counts.

I personally don't even run the factory intake pipe anymore. It's way to restrictive for my likings. I have track tested my new intake pipe versus the stock pipe with no resonators at the track on numerous runs. It consistently performed better. It's just a smooth pipe, no resonators at all.

For all those saying it does nothing. Have YOU dyno tested it? NO! So do not answer the question if you don't know for SURE. You are all basing it off hearsay and making claims you CAN NOT back up with any data what so ever. I am getting sick of reading posts like this. People are taking what you say as fact when indeed it is NOT. It is simply a guess. :gtfo:

Now on to the answer that I have posted on here many times already. I have dyno tested my car with and without them. The runs were made back to back with no other changes made and only a few minutes in between each run. The peak power/torque gain is minimal. Both went up about .5 - 1.0. This is nothing to brag about at all and not worth mentioning really. However the real gain is the 5ft/lbs of torque it gained around 4k RPM. So yes THERE IS something to be gained by removing them. It's not like you are going to **** yourself because of all the new found power but every little bit counts.

I personally don't even run the factory intake pipe anymore. It's way to restrictive for my likings. I have track tested my new intake pipe versus the stock pipe with no resonators at the track on numerous runs. It consistently performed better. It's just a smooth pipe, no resonators at all.
Yes i agree...why does the Manual Accord V6 in the US have no inlet resonators & has a couple of extra horses (over the quieter auto models with inlet resonators)...and why do owners of Infiniti G35 swap there inlet pipe (that has resonators) with 350Z inlet pipe that has no resonators and pick up extra power???


P:S Psshhwhat please post a link to your website. I came across it a while ago & it is really informative on the subject of inlet resonators and the benefits of their removal...

http://www.diamanteowners.com/forum/blog/psshhwhat/index.php? - i think that's what you're looking for, its the second entry (with lack of paragraphing Pssh!)

I will eventually have a real site with all of this info and lots more. I think the article linked above is the one you are talking about though.

........................Now on to the answer that I have posted on here many times already. I have dyno tested my car with and without them. The runs were made back to back with no other changes made and only a few minutes in between each run. The peak power/torque gain is minimal. Both went up about .5 - 1.0. This is nothing to brag about at all and not worth mentioning really. However the real gain is the 5ft/lbs of torque it gained around 4k RPM. So yes THERE IS something to be gained by removing them. It's not like you are going to **** yourself because of all the new found power but every little bit counts...............


WWWWWWOOoOoO0o0o9TTTtTtTt!!!!!!1 :2cool:

Now all you'll need is an AMC sticker down the side and you'll have about the same gains you'd get from a gready! :bowrofl:

I will eventually have a real site with all of this info and lots more. I think the article linked above is the one you are talking about though.

Would you be willing to post a picture of the intake piping you are running on your car?? or at least describe the design. I'm presently trying to work out what the most effective intake system would be.

I'm particularly interested in diameter of piping (your profile mentions 2.5" - smaller than most of us consider ideal), location of MAF sensor, type of filter used (pod or panel), air pickup point (ie: inside engine bay, fog lamp hole, under front bar, wheel arch, over radiator etc).

Would really appreciate seeing what has worked for you. Thanks.

WWWWWWOOoOoO0o0o9TTTtTtTt!!!!!!1 :2cool:

Now all you'll need is an AMC sticker down the side and you'll have about the same gains you'd get from a gready! :bowrofl:

Firstly, its GReddy and not gready. Secondly, he's not claiming its a huge amount but you show me another mod that costs about 40cents and gains 5ft/lbs of torque. You cant. Thirdly, you post brought nothing to the conversation, wasnt argumentitive, literate, informative, or even intelligent so how about you think about your next post and come back with a better point of discussion next time so we dont end up with these 5 page topics of **** like you just posted.

Black Beard,

If you click the link in my profile it will take you to my Car domain page. It has a current picture of my engine bay. Well it's just been detailed and the sticker removed but otherwise it still looks the same. As for my intake pipe, I'll be happy to share. Currently it is a Mandrel bent 2.5" pipe, it was a U Bent section that I cut in 1/2. It is very short right now. I run a Cone Filter that has an inlet in the center as well, unlike the K&N Cone/Pod most of you run. It is mounted right where the battery sits. At the track I ran the "Ram Air" headlight that is pictured in my profile. It was hooked directly to the center of the air filter. So fresh cold air was forced right into the filter. The 2.5" pipe is smaller than the TB by a little. To most it may seem restrictive but it is very short and only has one minor bend. I will be trying a 3" Pipe this coming up track season before it gets Turbocharged. The smaller pipe creates more Torque down low though which helps with the launch. I just don't know how much if any it is restricting it up high. I also need to get a different coupler at the TB, I currently use a "Hump" connector that I know is causing turbulence in the intake. If I get some extra cash I'll take it back to the dyno in a couple months and compare the intake pipe sizes. I may also make a true "cold-air" intake that mounts the filter behind the foglight. The thing is that long length of piping causes a pressure drop and may lose power up high. It's just kind of a waste considering I'll have it boosted sooner or later.

For comparisons sake I tried the stock intake pipe minus the resonators at the track. It was hooked to the factory air-box that I opened up quite a bit. Meaning the inlet was more of square than the small round inlet it has stock. I tried a K&N and an HKS Panel filter. Both ran very similar times. Averaging 15.4 - 15.6 and an average trap speed of 90 Mph. The pipe coming from the Ram Air headlight was pointed directly at the filters for these runs too.

Then running the current setup I got it down to my current best of 15.3 @ 91mph. These runs were made on the same night and the temp was also the same on all runs. I made many runs with both to make sure the results were indeed consistent.

My goal is to run 14's before I Turbocharge it. Thats why I would like to dyno test some various intake setups to see which makes the most power before I head back to the track. I may also swap MAF sensors to a higher flow unit to extract every bit of power I can while it's NA. Like I said I am going to try and get a site up detailing all of this information.

For all those saying it does nothing. Have YOU dyno tested it? NO! So do not answer the question if you don't know for SURE. You are all basing it off hearsay and making claims you CAN NOT back up with any data what so ever. I am getting sick of reading posts like this. People are taking what you say as fact when indeed it is NOT. It is simply a guess. :gtfo:



Yes, yes I have, I work with a dyno everyday of my life and everything I do with my car I have the big luxury of testing out and guess what - it does didly squat, just makes the car sound that much sweeter as the TB cracks open.

Matthius

Edit: This was my experience, I've tried it with a non-standard intake, a hotdog rear muffler and totally stock and witnessed no gains whatsoever - I'm not trying to say that it won't do anything, just that yes I tested it and it did nothing on my car :P