http://sg.jvc-asia.com/images/products/caraudio/8_l.gif

Hi Guys,

I’m trying to install new JVC KD-S785 CD/MP3 player [see above] in to my 1998 Magna but honestly speaking I don’t know where to start. Ok here is the list of my questions hope you can help me out.

1. How to step by step take out old Magna cassette player?
2. What is the order of wires?
3. How to fit new player?
4. What’s involved in installing new subwoofer?

Please keep in mind that it is my first DIY Magna project. Maybe someone can point me to good and easy instruction manual

Thanks in advance.

maybe find a mate who has done one before - doesnt have to be a pro - but someone with half an inkling as to what is going on is always good to taggin along for the ride.

firstly - check out blakes (aussiemagna's) tech article in regards to pulling out the centre console.

you should be able to go to a shop and buy an adaptor - I dont think you will be intending to sell off the standard magna tape deck - go to the audio place you got the deck from and say - can i get a wiring loom adaptor from a magna tape deck to this model HU. if you can do that - saves all the wiring!! and then just bolt it back in!!! esiest way around it!!

if you cant - then one of the guys here will run through the wires with you.

If you have a haynes or gregory's manual for the magna - then that also will have the wiring colours of the stereo.

apart from that - subs are easy to install - the new deck you have should have RCA outputs - then it is a case of putting in an amp and sub - boom done!!

where do you live - maybe one of the local magna guys can drop in and give you a hand??

if you live around perth - i would be more than willing to give you a hand!!

Manual

Thanks for you kind help, unfortunatly I'm from Melbourne.
I did find the article how to take out face.
I still need some more info and tips on install.

i still reckon u should just go and get the conversion loom from magna tape deck to JVC HU - be the easiest way to go!!

or else you end up with soldering wires and all the rest - it is fun - but time consuming!!

glad i could point you in the right way for the first step!!

Manual

I pretty much agree with what Manual has said.


step 1. Go Find a wiring loom adapter. I REALLY wish I had done this rather than hacking up all my wires.

step 2. Check out blakes instructions for removing the centre console. It pretty much sums up everything I did (or at least wish I'd done the first time around).

step 3. Plug one end of the adapter into the wiring loom of the magna and the other end into the back of the deck.

step 4. Check to make sure it all works.

step 5. Put it all back together in reverse order.

If you can't find an adapter for it then come back to the forum and someone might have the info on hand regarding the wiring colours etc....

I can't remember them off the top of my head. It looks like a daunting task ripping apart your car, but the best way is just to get stuck into it and learn as you go.
I only had my car a couple of weeks before I bought an entire new system and learnt the hard way how to install HU, 4 speakers, new wiring for all speakers, amplifiers, subwoofers....

Now that gets scary when there's more of your interior outside your car than there is inside it. :shock:

do you guys know if above mentioned cd tuner will fitt nicely without standin out ?

here is the specs for it:

JVC KD-S785

180W (45Wx4) Power Output
MP3 Compatible
Rotary Encoder Multi-Control
HS-II Tuner
Advanced Sound Control Memory
Line Output Terminals (x2 pairs)



Frequency Response 5-20,000Hz

Dynamic Range 98dB

Signal-To-Noise Ratio 102dB

Channel Separation More than 85dB

Wow & Flutter Less than measurable Limit


Tuner Section

No. of Presets (FM + AM) 18+6

FM Frequency Range 87.5 - 108.0MHz

FM Usable sensitivity 11.3dBf

FM 50dB quieting sensitivity 16.3dBF

FM Stereo Separation 30dB

FM Capture Ratio 1.5dB

AM Frequency Range 531-1,602kHz

Selectivity 35dB


Amplifier Section

Maximum Power Output 50 Watts x 4

Continuous Power Output (RMS) 4CH: 17 Watts per Channel

Total Harmonic Distortion 40Hz-20Hz at no more than 0.8% T.H.D.

Frequency Response 40-20,000Hz

Line Output Level 2.0 V


Dimensions

Installation Size 182 x 52 x 150 mm

Panel Size 188 x 58 x 11 mm

Detechable Face Plate 170 x 46 x 19 mm

Not sure on an exact answer for you "standing out question", but if it does then just do what I did (and what the Audio Store installations guys recommended for me to do when I showed them my install).

When you mount it in there, you won't need the cage that the deck slides in and out of.... you just screw it in to the bracket using 4 screws straight into the side of your deck. if its too deep or too far out (mine was too deep) then just get a small round file (thin enough to fit in the screw holes on the mounting bracket and file them in the direction you want to move the deck. Don't make the holes a greater diameter overall, keep them the same diameter so your screws don't pull straight through, but make them elongated so you can adjust the depth of the deck to where you want it to go.


Not sure if that makes sense or not. If not then let me know and I'll draw a diagram or something.

Thanks that's very good point.

I still need someone to give me more info on wiring.

Im in Melbourne mate.

In the South Eastern area.

Im free Sunday to have a look if you want. (if youre over in my area that is) If not we could organise a time.

I recently added my stereo and subs/amp into my car. (bout a month back now)

All cd/tape players are made to the standard size 8 track tape deck(back in the 50's) Its been the standard since the 8 track was invented all those many years ago. Hence why you see all our consoles (in just about all makes of car, except the new fords) are the same standard size.

As for will it screw straight in.. I needed to re drill the holes in the cage in the console (very easy to do) and then remounted my stereo back in. Im not sure with JVC, but the Pioneer screw holes are setup to fit straight into a Toyota or Nissan car. (hence why i had to drill new holes) and you can usually find this information on their sites.

Yes i agree with ENCN, just screw the screws throught the console chassis straight into your deck. In regards to your deck standing out, most decks shouldn't, but mine did slightly, so i redrilled holes in the console chassis and now it fits like a dream!

As for the wiring, i would go by what manual said. Pop down to your local car audio store and get a wiring harness for a Magna to suit a JVC deck. That way its just a matter of plugging in the new harness and matching up the same coloured wires :D Very simple.

Thank you guys for the good info.

I actually decided to buy different tuner

Pioneer -P5550MP

http://www.car.pioneeraus.com.au/catalogue/product_cd_tuners/deh-p5550mp/deh-p5550mp_prod.jpg

Anyone gote any feedback on this box?
Can this one be easily installed without adjusting to many things in my Magna ?


Also another different question:
I couldn't find any info on how to install sub in my Magna. Anyone willing to share this information with me ?

DAM that is nice, i think im going to have to upgrade mine now....

Anyone want mine :mrgreen:

Thats the same Head Unit i have.

Its ****ING AWSOME! to put it simply..

You will need to drill holes in your cage once youve pulled it out to sit it flush.

Subs are dead easy.

You'll need to obviously buy the sub, an amp and an amplifier wiring kit. The amp wiring kit comes with the power lead including the fuse, an RCA lead and the amp remote turn on lead.

1. Place the the fuse end of the power lead near the battery (don't hook it up to the battery, just leave it near it for now) and run the power lead down through one of the holes already available in the firewall, and all the way to wherever you are mounting your amp (boot I presume).
2. Cut off the excess length of power cable to use as the ground cable... because remember... your ground lead and power lead must be the same guage.
3. Hook the power cable up to the amp.
4. hook the ground cable up to the amp and run the other end to a nice clean bit of the chasis (remove any paint so the cable makes contact with bare metal).
5. Hook the remote turn on lead up to the correct wire from the back of the deck and run the cable back through the car to the amp and hook it up to the correct terminal on the amp.
6. Hook the RCA plugs up to the RCA outputs of the deck and RCA inputs of the amp.
7. Hook the sub up to the amp.
8. Hook the power lead up to the battery.
9. Turn stereo on and check that it all works
9. Thump away and annoy your neighbours.

The only real tricky stuff here is routing the wires through the car.

Hope it helps.

If I've left anything off or anyone disagrees with anything, then by all means correct me.

Pics of Headunit in the car..

Http://members.optusnet.com.au/miltonf/car/headunit.jpg

And one at night (well in my garage.. hehe)

Http://members.optusnet.com.au/miltonf/car/headunitn.jpg

Looks nice :) How hard was it to change the lights in the dash coz my little d light in the dash has died and I need to fix it :(

Wonder how much it would cost to get climate control in my tf :p

Forget doing a climate control conversion, way to much mucking around and $$$ to do it. i was quoted 1900.... hahahaha forget that!

I think the VR-X and some sports come wtih red clusters...

Bain, how much was your deck?

ok then for $1900 I dont mind turning a few dials :p

I wouldnt mind replacing it with a stock light. All the others work..1st 2nd etc but the d is broken :(

just pull your cluster out and swap like the L bulb for the D. Cheap temp solution

Sounds good to me :) Can u just buy the bulb at mitsu?

Im sure you could, never been bothered to as my dad drives a White TE V6 so i just help myself to his parts. His car is my spare parts bin.... gota love it! He doesn't care, he's just running it into the ground until he takes delivery of a new BMW.... lucky lucky bloke.

very nice..... hrmmm might wait till I have a few more little problems and go hire one for a weekend....have a heap of fun and get the parts I need lol

i too am tempted to hire a magna and replace my door and boot!!

haha - be cheap - except i am under 21 and cant hire a car!! or 25 or whatever it is!!

oh well - shit happens!!

only got 3 small dent in the door and a bit of a clear coat missing on the boot - i am sure i can live with that for now!!

Manual

Note to self, never buy a hire car...

Headunit retails for $569.

I got it for $500 when i bought my Amp at the same time..

JB HiFi.. Its most likely even cheaper now..

I got a VRX so the display came like that with all the red glowy.. Its really cool, cause if it goes dark they automatically light up. So i dont need to have my headlights on for them to glow.

I really like it, might trade mine in shortly... got to wait for the bodykit first...

How long is that body kit away....

GBM is waiting.... waiting... waiting..... please blake!!! i gotta get one :cry: GBM is nothing without one! Waaaah!

hehe

GBM

Thank's for your input guys.

In regards to a head unit DEH-5550MP you can buy it at JBHI with Pioneer TS-A6955 6X9 rear speakers $549


I'm still a bit confused with the sub install. I'm not technicaly minded in this area can you please give more detailed guide.

Start a thread in the car audio section...

As for the kit, there have been a few setbacks but nothing major. Im not rushing the kit as quality is what we want.

No rush blake, just wondering...

cos i have money to spend, no point keepin it cos the fu*kin banks dont give me enough interest ne way!!! bloody fees i tell ya!!! bloody fees!!!

Last statement i got, .34c credit in interest,
Charges :$18.76 HOW THE FU*K!!! MAN, I HATE BANKS!! THEY PISS ME OFF SOOOOOO MUCH...

Blake, how bout making a Magna Credit Uniun, or even starting a 'Bank of Magna' :wink:

Offer interest free loans to people whom need money to modify their magna :D

GBM

1. Place the the fuse end of the power lead near the battery (don't hook it up to the battery, just leave it near it for now) and run the power lead down through one of the holes already available in the firewall, and all the way to wherever you are mounting your amp (boot I presume).

How to run wires through holes in firewall, and how can I run it to the boot?
Do I have to use some kind of special tool ?


4. hook the ground cable up to the amp and run the other end to a nice clean bit of the chassis (remove any paint so the cable makes contact with bare metal).

What’s a clean bit of chassis and where can I find it in the boot ?
If I understand you correctly I have to hook ground to the any metal part in the boot.


5. Hook the remote turn on lead up to the correct wire from the back of the deck and run the cable back through the car to the amp and hook it up to the correct terminal on the amp.

That’s the most important part how do I run it from the tuner to the boot?
Do I have to lay it under the carpet? If yes, how? And How do I run it past back seat?


Is this diagram correct ?

http://www.nid-design.com.au/images/sub.gif

I need Subs for Dumies Guide :wink:

Spot on, however you will also need a remote cable from the deck to the amp which will shut it on and off.

Is there some kind of detailed guide on the net on how to install sub.
Because it's getting very complex and I feel like I'm going to do something wrong and cause damage to my car.
The only part I’m still not 100% on how to run the wires. The other parts are more or less understandable, except fuse.

Its very basic, just a matter of hooking everything up.

If you cross something over or do something wrong the worst that can happen is blowing a fuse. You might as well give it a shot. Im sure someone else will know a url to setting up a sub.

goodluck mate :wink:

well - actually the diagram is alittle off - you dont need to run a cable from the amp to the negative terminal of your battery - not necessary!!

what you need:
RCA from HU to Amp - two wires (unless multiple outputs)
power cable (constant) to battery
Remote wire from amp to HU - so when HU is on Amp is on
an earth for the amp - (Hint - the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the chassis under the hood - this means if you connect a ground wire / earth wire / negative wire to the chassis it is connected to the negative terminal of the battery) if you undo and bolt or screw you should be able to connect the earth wire to that!!

to run wires to the boot you will need to pull out the back seat.

this is easily done by pulling the two tabs at the base of the bottom part of the seat - this will remove the bench portion of the seat - there are then three bolts holding the back part of the seat in - undo these (hidden normally under the bottom part of the seat but exposed when the seat is removed) and then slide the top half up towards the back window as there are 4 clips holding the back of the seat in - well hooks more then clips!!

then you can access the boot of your car reasonably easily!!

to lay wires from the HU to boot - run them along the side steps of the car - just remove the plastic paint protectors - just clipped in - gently pull them up - the carpet you just roll back out of the way and run the wries - there is plastic tunnelling setup for this already - easy to run wirres through it.

Good Luck - any questions keep firing!!

Manual

No you don't, you just ground your negative cable to any metal part of the car. The whole car is a negative terminal.

Ok guys you gote me confused.
Can someone correct my diagram please.

i think this is right:

Correct me if im wrong :?

http://www.wycliffe.com.au/private/bens_magna/sub1.gif

GBM

If understood correctly + running throurgh the fuse from the battery - is
body (ground)

Ok what about remote cable from the deck to the amp which will shut it on and off.

Where does it fit on the diagram?

Can I connect my negative wire to the body of the car inside the boot ?


Can someone please give me more detailed explanation on how to run battery wire to the boot.

i can do the diagram - but i dont know how to post it in the msg - if someone can help me with that then i can draw a proper diagram??

Manual

Send me via msn I'll post it

sorry not on MSN - at work!!

whats your email - i will email it to you!

Manual

Aww De.. I could have come over and shown you how to install it mate..

Simple as!

Us melbourne folk need to stick together..

Thanks Bain for your kind help but I realy want to learn it the hard way

Ok Guys,

Here is the diagram which was kindly provided by ENCN.

Please feel free to post any comments.


http://www.nid-design.com.au/images/sub2.jpg

Perfect!

talk about spot on.

Big cheers for DE for taking the time out to fo that one.

ENCN Created This Diagram so it's big thanks to him :!:

The only thing I'd like to ask, on the diagram there is only one RCA lead
if I'm not mistaken there are 2 left and right. :?:

normally one 'lead' will carry both L and R channels / front and rear.. am i right? its like mulded together.... unless you run 2 amps, you will only have 'one' rca cable.... i think im right :S

I managed to get connection diagram for American Model DEH-5500MP
Which I beilive is identical to Aussie DEH-5550MP

http://www.nid-design.com.au/images/diagram.gif

As you can see they connecting power from Amp directly to HU.
Is it corret, or better to run it from the battery?

And I'm having trouble finding any reffernce to remote Turn-on switch.

Need your help again guys. :roll:

errr..id still run it from the battery, less load on the HU.

what about remote Turn-on switch ?

Remote turn on is a light blue cable (in mine neway) that plugs from the HU to the amp.. this is a HU controlled item... im led to believe ne way :S im no expert in Audio Gear.. im a damn computer engineer! :x

GBM

I'm a bit confused with what you just said :?:

Ok heres the go!!

The amp needs a constant power supply to keep its electronic memory - ie elctronically set gains and the like (not important at this stage) however this power cable to thebattery does not turn the amp on - just retains the memory - like the battery in your motherboard to keep your computer settings.

anyway - you need to run the remote wire - which is seen in the HU diagram you got from the US - little cable reading remote turn on - this means that when you turn your car on and the HU is activated then the amps will be running as well.

Does this answer your question??

Manual

oh and forgot to mention - yes there are two RCA cables wound together - they have red and white ends on them?? sorry - thats TV;s haha - the ends are different to specify left and right hand side

anyway - the noise you get when running the cables down the same side of the car is alternator interference - this can tell you when your alternator is on its way out - high pitched ringing sound - very irritating!!

as for the power from HU and battery - shoulda said this as well - you need both of them!!

Manual

Im sorry, maybe i donno whats goin on myself.. but to my knowledge, the remote turn on is a light blue cable? right? yer well im sure there is a connecton behind the headunit that this connects into .

the remote turn in is used to send a signal to the amp when the HU is on. ie, if your HU is playing tunes then your amp needs to be turned on to listen to them, if your car is turned off, which would make your HU off, then your amp will also be off.

errr. i hope that kinda sorted things out :S
sowwie if it didnt :S

sorry i think i said things slightly wrong.

the power cables:

there is a cable from the Amp to battery and Amp to HU.

the power cable to the battery keeps the memory in the amp while the HU / car is off.

the cable from HU to Amp will let the amp know it needs to be on - therefore drawing more power from the battery through the battery to amp connection to get the tunes pumping

is this clear as mud??

i think so many explanations have made the matter worse!!

oh well - hope it all helps

Manual

Yes thanks.
The only thing I don't see any indication of remote on/off on the diagram above.

Well, im sure there's gotta be one :)

Other wise no matter if your HU is on or off, if the car is on, then your amp is on, which uses battery power and will make your amp hot!

Good luck

GBM

look just under where the diagram has the stacker - it has white/blue remote wire - for controlling amps and electric arials!

Manual

Manual,

If I'm understanding this diagram correctly I need to hack in to blue/white wire, the problem is I'm using Wiring loom adaptor.

hmm, if u are using a wiring loom adaptor you may need to "hack into it"

not that it is actually as severe as you have put it - it is quite simple.

i have never used a loom to loom adaptor - always soldered - oh well - if u solder with one wire - it is fine!!

i would actually need to see a picture of the wiring loom adaptor to comment on that though - hmm, maybe you get a bloke from your area there to come and have a look - just a mate - BTW i didnt think you had amps yet??

if your stereo plays tunes - it is what you want it to do!!

Manual

:!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:

Ok Guys,

I got a problem there is no Wiring Loom Adptor for Pioneer DEH-5550MP
because they introduced new connector type and adaptor has not been developed yet :cry:

I need wiring diagram for Magna 98 urgently.

Can someone please run me through the wires colour


:!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:

if you go into the car audio forum here -there is a link that will take you to it straight away - some one has already posted it there - in a mesage called "help colour wires" or something - already there!!

Manual

Thanks Manual you are genious :wink:

In stead of soldering can I use wire to wire connectors

Ok everyone I'm in business.

Just picked up from my friend Coustic 161SE Amp
and Kicker 10" Sub

By the way its only one RCA that is going from the HU to the sub not two.

yes 1 RCA - but one RCA has two plugs!! Well, four - two each end!!

As for wires connectors - hmmm, since i learnt to solder i never went back - wire connectors can sometimes give bad connections - but then again if u plug the wrong wire in it is easier to change - personnally with all that sorta stuff i would be soldering!! not connecting - but they both work kinda!!

and besides - solder is easier to get into all that stuff otherwise you are left trying to crimp wire connectors in confined space - hmm not my idea of a good time!

let us know how you go any way!!

make sure the amp and sub are secure in the boot - u dont want them rolling around anywhere!!

Manual

I came up with idea. I'm going to solder my own looming adapter by using Magna male audio connector.

???

ok - if it works it works - but i got no idea what you are on about now??

Have fun!!

Manual

actually - i get it now - ok - have fun!!

Manual

I gote yesterday sub wiring pack. RCA cable that came with this pack has left and right and little black wire in the middle it looked to me like ground wire.

Do you have to ground RCA?

hmmm, thats weird - RCA's dont have earths??

the only thing i can think of is it may be the remote turn on wire - the one that runs from the amp to HU - to let the amp know if the HU is on?? i dunno - never seen anything like it before??

Manual

Its the remote wire, makes it easier when feeding wire through to the boot to have it on your RCA's.

haha - thought so!! my old car didnt have RCA outputs so i had to put high load inputs to the amp - ie speaker wires!! not the best way to do it - but with the cheap shit i had it was the best i could do!!

Manual

I don't think it's remote because pack comes with remote cable, plus if its remote where is the other end.

It looks like that:

http://www.nid-design.com.au/images/rca.gif

ok - i have no idea - does it say in the insturctions??

Manual

Not realy.
The only thing I could think of that it's ground to reduce the noice in rca.

hmmm, i dunno??

sorry - but that one really has me stumped??

unleass it is meant to go to the amp end to assist in earthing the amp??

Manual

Hi Guys,

Can somone please draw me a diagram on how remove back seat to pass wires to the boot.

i can draw one - but i cant post it here - i would have to email it to you!!

PM your email and i can send it to you if u like - then post it here to see if is correct!!

Manual

Thanks Manual it's in your pm

actually it is easy to explain!!

basically - pull the two black tabs that are at the front of the back seat on the bottom half - ie if you were sitting it would be behind your calf!! pull them towards to front of the car - then lift the front half of the back seat up. then push the back half of the seat down, then pull it out - thats easy done!!

to get the back off - there are three bolts under where the bottom half of the seat was - undo these - one either side and one in the middle - i think about a size 12 ratchet gets them off - from memory!!

then lift the back part of the seat up towards the roof of teh car and pull it out - there is 4 little hooks that hold it in place - not actually bolted just resting in the crooks - this stops the top half of the seat coming forward!!

then you have the seat out - easy!!

run the cables through any of the cable runs - there about 100 of them !!! (maybe a slight overexaggeration but close enough!!)

and there you go - run the cable through the side of the car in the cables runs just under the carpet edge - bobs ur uncle - piece of cake!

any hassles - post!!

Manual

These two black tabs are they under the carpet ?

no they arent - they are resting on the bottom half of the seat - this is where i wish i had a digital camera!!

when you sit on the back seat - they are about where your calf is!!

behind the passenger and driver seats!!

Find them??

Manual

gday
well i installed my whole system amps subs n speaker with my 2 mates and the rule we found most important is test beofre u crimp the wires....sure it's only a small thign to remember but up here in darwin......the heat really gets to ya if u stuff it up!!!
taking out of headunits and stuff is pretty basic...the hardest part was wiring under my carpet took me days..but nopw there are no wires in sight and i thinki did a pretty good job!!!!
best of all!!!! the SUBS PUMP!!!!!

Howcome the wiring under the carpet took so long?

You did remove the seats and pulled away most of the carpet didn't you? If not how the hell did you manage to do it!!!

do i have to remove all seats to run wires from my HU to my sub ?

I thought I just had to remove back one. :?:

Need your help Guys,
I spend an hour today looking for the wire grommet in firewall.
The only thing I saw is some kind of firewall covering material. I loked behind it but I couldn't find any rubber grommet with the wires runnning through it.

Does anyone have a photo of that grommet where the hell it's located.

:x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x

see firewall thread...

Ok lets talk about passing sub wires under the carpet. From the previous posts I gote a bit confused someone mentioned about removing front seats to pass the wires under the carpet to the boot :?:

I need as much info us possible on how to pass wires to the boot. :roll:

De start a new thread.

Can amp's remote on/off cable run near or together with + battery cable or this will cause interference

It shouldn't do.