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freddy
12-01-2006, 12:47 PM
What do people mean when they say sound deadening for your car? Like how do you do it and why? At a guess I think it would be to stop the rattle sounds etc when you turn up your speakers, am I right?

DJ Dooms Day
12-01-2006, 12:52 PM
Yep, its basicly a sheet of rubber that you apply to surfaces to make them heavier, and therefore don't rattle. It can also help keep music in your car (makes everything sound louder and better) and road noise outside your car. Read this: http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/content.php?contentID=19

Mad iX
12-01-2006, 12:52 PM
The following is blatantly stolen from the 3rd gen FAQ (http://www.wermspowke.net/wiki/index.php/Interior).


"Sound deadener - Many brands available. Can be bought from jb hifi, autobarn car audio places etc. The best stuff is the tar/bitumen based mats. They roll on. Best brands include dynamat, g spot, stinger roadkill, serenity etc etc. Also cheaper stuff from jaycar. This adds weight and decreases the panels resonant frequency. Stop resonance of individual panels. Just jam foam/cardboard around the places to stop spot rattles." - advice by s_tim_ulate

freddy
12-01-2006, 01:04 PM
What sort of cost is involved, like price of dynomat etc?

Also, do you normally do all doors and parsel shelf (spelling?) or just the area's which you can hear rattle? Or perhaps just the areas near the speakers?

DJ Dooms Day
12-01-2006, 01:13 PM
It really depends man. If you have ****loads of money you'd do the whole car. :P
But if your like the rest of us mere mortals you only do the parts that rattle the most and the parts where sound is most likely to hit (like right behind the speaker in the doors). I don't think the parcel shelf is that popular, its solid and doesn't usually rattle and not much sound hits it.
Its also not unusual to apply two sheets (or more) of sound deadening on one spot.
I can't say how much it costs, there are a few different brands with varing cost and quality.

Fhrx
12-01-2006, 01:16 PM
We constantly get asked what the benefits of sound deadening are. This is our standard reply:

Do you really need sound deadening in my doors?

Ever been to a movie cinema with no carpet on the walls? Ever wondered why most home theaters have curtains hanging on their walls? Maybe you've seen a car or jet test cell without diffusers on the walls? What about a sound recording studio without diffusers? No? Starting to notice a pattern?

Speakers are alternating devices in that they travel both ways. Forwards and backwards from a zero point. This means the cone begins at a neutral point and moves out to the xmax cone excursion (forward). It then returns past the zero point to the bottom xmax (backwards) point before returning back to zero to begin the next cycle. Sound emanates from both the front and rear of the cone. The front wave is heard by you. The rear wave is what the sound deadening and diffusers deals with.

Simply put, doors are over glorified metal cans. They echo and reverberate inside and the skins flex easily, causing bass to become blurred and muddy and even to cancel itself out all together. By adding sound deadening you're adding mass to the doors skins and this helps in stopping flexing and internal sound waves flying around echoing inside the door which all effect the speakers sound quality reproduction.

Additional diffusers (like foam and tiny egg cartons shaped mats) also assist when placed behind the speaker this in the following way; When measured peak to peak soundwaves within the midbass to lower midrange region are around 1-5" in path length. This is the perfect distance for sound emanating from the rear moving cone to travel from the speaker to the doors metal outer skin, reflect and come flying back to impact the cone and cancel on the next cycle. This is the main reason why you need sound diffusers on top of the deadening. These catch the sound waves and trap them. Sort of like the paint on stealth aircraft catching radar waves to prevent them returning to a dish.

The third reason to sound deaden is to seal the speaker into the door. In nature and especially physics, most elements take the easiest path from A to B. Take water for example; you push it one way it heads of in that direction and runs where ever the easiest path is. Air is the same. When your speaker cone moves forward, it creates a high pressure cell right in front of the speaker cone. However from science you'll remember for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. In other words, if there is a high pressure cell in front of the cone, there will be a low pressure cell on the rear side of the speaker cone. If the door is deadened and the speaker sealed into the baffle (one side to the other only - don't make the door a full enclosure because many midranges are designed to run free-air) the air moves towards you and the bass from the doors is incredible. If there is no deadening and the speaker is simply screwed down with air leaks all around it, the high pressure air simply takes the easiest path and moves around the edge of the speaker frame to behind the speaker where the low pressure cell is. In simple terms, you get no bass.

Now many cars come with deadening from the factory but it is never enough. Maybe a few inches here and there. Both inner and outer skin of the doors should be fully deadened. Car manufacturers only install a limited amount in order to keep costs down when production is underway. But for a serious sound enthusiast, heavy deadening is an absolute must. This is why all the cars in every continent that win the sound offs are chockers full of deadening.

Hope that helps. For some piccies of sound deadening, click here (http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/fhrxstudios/photogallery_int.asp#interest4). :D

ICUH8N
12-01-2006, 03:04 PM
I'll add my little input..sound deadening is a damn rip off in terms of price. But it's almost a necessity and you'll love it once you've applied it. It's probably the best purchase I've made for my system.

ICUH8N
12-01-2006, 03:05 PM
I don't think the parcel shelf is that popular, its solid and doesn't usually rattle and not much sound hits it.


I disgaree, I find my parcel shelf and many others do rattle. Also they vibrate off the metal support a lot, so foam is useful too.

Colgate
12-01-2006, 05:47 PM
i put dynamat all through my car , front doors , rear doors, top of parcel shelf and behind the back seats all the way to the floor and the entire boot and boot lid ... i posted some pics not to long ago

as for cost ... it cost lots but well worth it i barely have a single rattle at high volume

only rattle i can hear when the stereo is turned up is the exhaust and not sure if i can sound deadedn that :D


but if you got the dollars and got the time i'd highly recommend it

Ol' Fart
12-01-2006, 05:51 PM
Has anybody tried the spray on deadener?

What do you reckon about it?

I was gunna do the whole inside of the Pookymobile while I had it stripped. :D

ICUH8N
12-01-2006, 06:06 PM
Has anybody tried the spray on deadener?

What do you reckon about it?

I was gunna do the whole inside of the Pookymobile while I had it stripped. :D

Spray on? I've used Paint Sound-Deadener (SoundOff) which you can spray on, it'd make it a ****load easier then painting it on too. Works pretty damn good, sets harder than a male pornstars ...well you know.

It's NOT as good as Stinger RoadKill (or Dynamat Extreme if you will) but it does work pretty damn nicely. Around $60 for a 1L tub.

Ol' Fart
12-01-2006, 09:04 PM
Spray on? I've used Paint Sound-Deadener (SoundOff) which you can spray on, it'd make it a ****load easier then painting it on too. Works pretty damn good, sets harder than a male pornstars ...well you know.

It's NOT as good as Stinger RoadKill (or Dynamat Extreme if you will) but it does work pretty damn nicely. Around $60 for a 1L tub.


Nah, this stuff you can get from autobarn in a 4 litre tin. I looks like tar and you need to use a degreaser gun to spray it. I sprayed sum in the mates ute when we were resprayin the car but its a noisy piece of **** with no stereo at all, :shock: so I couldnt tell how much difference it made. :confused:

Anyone else tried it? :)

freddy
13-01-2006, 08:43 AM
Everyone is saying it's expensive but no prices listed, i'm a bit scared to know =p

How much approx is dynomat or equivilent, per sheet (what size sheets does it come in)
Also, how much would you use to say do a TJ front door? :S

ICUH8N
13-01-2006, 07:34 PM
12sq ft of Dynamat Extreme is $130 (from FHRX Studios website). That's enough to do the front two doors.

Ralliart 410
13-01-2006, 08:05 PM
I have used both Roadkill and Jaycar deadener and to be honest there is very little difference.. I used Jaycar for the outer door skins on the 4 doors and the bootlid whilst i used the Roadkill for the innerskins of the front doors. Makes a huge difference.

ICUH8N
13-01-2006, 08:08 PM
Last time I went to Jaycar I asked for their sound-deadener and they showed me like a rubber thing you put under carpet, is this there sound-deadener?

Fhrx
13-01-2006, 09:04 PM
12sq ft of Dynamat Extreme is $130 (from FHRX Studios website). That's enough to do the front two doors.

There are pricelists of both G-Spot and Dynamat products on our website but remember those lists are full retail price, not what we sell for.;)

Ralliart 410
13-01-2006, 09:08 PM
Last time I went to Jaycar I asked for their sound-deadener and they showed me like a rubber thing you put under carpet, is this there sound-deadener?

Yes - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3684&CATID=&keywords=deadener&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

ICUH8N
13-01-2006, 09:15 PM
Yes - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AX3684&CATID=&keywords=deadener&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

That looks like Stinger/Dynamat kind of stuff, i was just shown the rubber..didnt have that aliminium foil type look to it like the Jaycar stuff does in the pic

Ralliart 410
13-01-2006, 09:19 PM
That looks like Stinger/Dynamat kind of stuff, i was just shown the rubber..didnt have that aliminium foil type look to it like the Jaycar stuff does in the pic

Yep - it has the aluminium foil on the back. Beleive me, i have used tons of the stuff.

ICUH8N
13-01-2006, 09:23 PM
Yep - it has the aluminium foil on the back. Beleive me, i have used tons of the stuff.

One last question, do you apply it just like Stinger/Dynamat, where you just peel back the paper crap and throw it on the metal? Or do I have to heat it up and gay **** like that?

magnat
13-01-2006, 09:59 PM
To Conform it to a Certain Shape, yes some heat may have to be applied but as with all things... Be aware of the Fire danger and Fumes..

Ol' Fart
14-01-2006, 06:05 PM
I have used both Roadkill and Jaycar deadener and to be honest there is very little difference.. I used Jaycar for the outer door skins on the 4 doors and the bootlid whilst i used the Roadkill for the innerskins of the front doors. Makes a huge difference.

Wouldnt that smell after a while. lol lol lol

ICUH8N
14-01-2006, 06:07 PM
Wouldnt that smell after a while. lol lol lol

Hahaha, all you do is make jokes :P

Ol' Fart
14-01-2006, 06:23 PM
Hahaha, all you do is make jokes :P

Meh, its a living lol lol

Colgate
14-01-2006, 06:36 PM
all the dynamat i used on my car not once did i heat it up or use heat to put it on :)

s_tim_ulate
15-01-2006, 07:36 AM
I use a heatgun. hairdryers and heaters also work well or just the sun

For some products, like roadkill; it is soft enough to do without. There are no fumes or fire hazard when you heat it up as you should only be heating up to the point where you can still touch it with your hands. Just enough to soften the bitumen.

Peace

Tim